Towing question

As you can see by my truck description I have a 2002 1500 X-Cab Z-71 with the 5.3l the gears are 3:73's. The manual states my max towing is 7,800lbs. I have just recently purchased a travel trailer which weighs 6,600lb empty but once fully loaded will easily exceed 9,000lbs. I figure the max it will ever be loaded is between 8,000 and 8,500lbs. I'm considering upgrading my brakes to a larger cross drilled style and putting on something like a helper spring. I'm wondering if I spend the money to beef the towing capabilities or just move up to a 3/4 ton.

I think you are pushing the limit of power and reliability at that weight and of course wind resistance, you need the 6.0 with the 3
/4 ton suspension and the 4l80e trans, in my opinion.

I also think you'd be much better off with the 2500 or HD series. There is more to GVWR than rear suspension and brakes, such as trans, axle, etc. Brake upgrades and helper springs do not increase your GVWR. The 5.3 tows small trailers ok, but it is definitely no powerhouse with something box shaped in tow, catching the wind. (I just rode in a 5.3 Avalanch this week towing a snowmobile trailer and it wouldn't stay in o/d in any kind of headwind, and got 8-10 mpg)

What's your tongue weight going to be? You can add air bags, but your limited to the smaller sleeve type instead of bellows with the hydro-formed 1500 frame. Larger brakes and air bags on the rear would definitely help you out, but a larger engine and some taller gears would help a lot more.

I just had the same issue. I had a 2003 1500 suburban with a 7200lb tow capacity. I bought a camper 6100lb empty. I estimated about 7000lb loaded. I towed this trailer last fall a few times and already started having issues with the transmission. I just offed the Suburban and purchased a 2006 crew Silverado diesel. It has a 12,000lb capacity. I can't wait till Spring to tow my camper with this new beast.

If you do more research on towing, it is suggested that you do not exceed 80% of you towing capabilities to safely tow. If you get close to 100% or exceed you drivetrain, your truck will be needing a new drivetrain before you know it.
Hope this helps!

I also think you'd be much better off with the 2500 or HD series. There is more to GVWR than rear suspension and brakes, such as trans, axle, etc. Brake upgrades and helper springs do not increase your GVWR. The 5.3 tows small trailers ok, but it is definitely no powerhouse with something box shaped in tow, catching the wind. (I just rode in a 5.3 Avalanch this week towing a snowmobile trailer and it wouldn't stay in o/d in any kind of headwind, and got 8-10 mpg)

What's your tongue weight going to be? You can add air bags, but your limited to the smaller sleeve type instead of bellows with the hydro-formed 1500 frame. Larger brakes and air bags on the rear would definitely help you out, but a larger engine and some taller gears would help a lot more.

tongue weight is 600lbs. I did spring for the Reese weight dist hitch with the anti sway bars. Its the one with the dual cam sway bars.

tongue weight is 600lbs. I did spring for the Reese weight dist hitch with the anti sway bars. Its the one with the dual cam sway bars.

That's not a whole lot of tongue weight, although this weight is multiplied by approximately 15% at the rear axle due to the fulcrum effect. If you are going to try towing with this truck, air springs work nice along with weight distribution bars. I think the small v8 and the 3.73's are going to have their hands full though, and mileage is really going to suffer. Not to mention the trans and trying to stop the whole package to boot. Still think it's not safe to be that far past GVWR. RVing is an expensive past time (like any other) and if you are going to use the trailer on a regular basis, buy something more suited to haul it around. Test drive a 2500HD and I think you'll be surprised at how smooth it really rides for day to day driving for a 9,200 GVWR truck. If you want to stay with gas, the 6.0 should do a good job, but nothing tops the diesel for towing performance.:2cents:

I agree with everyone that you will definitely want a bigger rig. There is no question that your truck can pull it, but safety is really the issue. Going down a flat piece of road or downhill is not a problem, but once you get on a decent grade with that 5.3 and 8500lbs of load, you will have to get the family out to push it up and stick their feet out the door to stop it! Seriously, though, it would be in your best interest to get something more suited for that kind of load. I have a fairly large pop-up camper that is supposed to be "light", but is still a pretty good load. With my 5.3 and 3.42 axle it is more than sufficient for the load, but when I hooked the camper up to my 1996 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L, it put a real strain on it, eventhough the Jeep is rated to tow 5000lbs. Get something bigger (diesel) and you won't have to worry about anything but hearing "are we there yet?"

Thanks for all the advice and considering the overwhelming reply to up grade I've done just that today. I moved up to a 2003 Avalanche 2500. It has the 8.1L and givin it's tow rating I can pretty much pull anything in a tagalong. I wanted a deisel but couldn't find one in my price range. Hopefully I haven't shot myself in the foot with this but if so then I'll live and learn. I know the mileage will drop but I figure in the long run it will balance out considering it looked like I would be getting around 8 to 10mpg pulling the camper on a good day.

Thanks for all the advice and considering the overwhelming reply to up grade I've done just that today. I moved up to a 2003 Avalanche 2500. It has the 8.1L and givin it's tow rating I can pretty much pull anything in a tagalong. I wanted a deisel but couldn't find one in my price range. Hopefully I haven't shot myself in the foot with this but if so then I'll live and learn. I know the mileage will drop but I figure in the long run it will balance out considering it looked like I would be getting around 8 to 10mpg pulling the camper on a good day.

Has any of the responders to the oringinal question 'actually' pulled this large amount of weight with a 1500???

My father has pulled a 30 ft camper with similar gross weight. The truck is an 2000 Yucon XL 1500,5.3, 410 rearend, air shocks and load leveling hitch. I believe it also has coils in the back instead of leaves(don't know what that does). The 410 got him the extra haul weight. For the last 6 years he has pulled from coast to coast in this manner, including Colorado at least twice. The Yucon has almost 50k miles with no major repairs. Infact, less repairs than my 1500 Siverado bought the same year. Mine has 90K and I drive spirited.

Now, granted he drive slow like grandpa, he is 80 yrs/old. This perhaps is why his Rig is in such good shape.

Any one out there with a similer towing experience.

Again, I think we go back to the power issue. In my opinion, it is safer to go ahead and get something that is more suitable to tow large loads, then to be right at or above the GVWR. This is especially important on those mountain passes and grades that really put a strain on a tow vehicle that is at its max. But, its all about how much you can afford, how much you use it, and where you go. Now I personally can't wait to head to the lake in another few weeks with all this talk about campers!:grinyes:

Has any of the responders to the oringinal question 'actually' pulled this large amount of weight with a 1500???

My father has pulled a 30 ft camper with similar gross weight. The truck is an 2000 Yucon XL 1500,5.3, 410 rearend, air shocks and load leveling hitch. I believe it also has coils in the back instead of leaves(don't know what that does). The 410 got him the extra haul weight. For the last 6 years he has pulled from coast to coast in this manner, including Colorado at least twice. The Yucon has almost 50k miles with no major repairs. Infact, less repairs than my 1500 Siverado bought the same year. Mine has 90K and I drive spirited.

Now, granted he drive slow like grandpa, he is 80 yrs/old. This perhaps is why his Rig is in such good shape.

Any one out there with a similer towing experience.

From the research I have done the 4:10 gears will make all the difference. When you look in the Chevy brochures it gives the 4:10's considerably more tow weight than the 3:73's with the same engine and with all the other stuff he has that sure doesn't hurt.

I pull a 31" TT @8000lb with my 99/5.3/383 1500. This is the limit for this truck and I get roughly 10mpg while towing. A little sluggish on the hills but on relatively flat highway their isn't a problem.

From the research I have done the 4:10 gears will make all the difference. When you look in the Chevy brochures it gives the 4:10's considerably more tow weight than the 3:73's with the same engine and with all the other stuff he has that sure doesn't hurt.

most of the time with towing is not a question of pulling, until you reach steep grades, the biggest factor that most don't pay attention to are the brakes. Brakes are different between a 3/4 and 1/2 ton trucks. If you are going to tow any serious weight, go with a 3/4 ton truck or even a 1 ton.

Yea changing the gears will add power in the lower rpm range, but it does nothing to help stop the vehicle.

I'm no expert but I spent a couple of years drivng a super duty ford wrecker towing cars to heavy loaded vans and light trucks. The scary part is going down a steep hill too fast for the laod and then trying to stop quickly . 1/2 ton trucks just don't cut it, with the brakes.

Look at the size of the rear drums on a 3/4 ton and then at the 1/2 ton, I'm sure the front rotors are larger too, same goes for 4wheel disk setup. Also 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks have heavy duty transmissions, 1/2 tons do not.

If you are going to pull serious weight, consider a 3/4 ton truck or even a 1 ton. Engine torque, rear end gearing, transmissions, brakes, suspensions are all different between the 1/2 and 3/4 ton trucks...

Sure you can most likely tow a vehicle or trailer that weighs as much as your truck or more, but can you stop it, and can you drive it safely and maintain a reasonable speed.

If the trailer pushes you down the hill, its a good clue that you have the wrong vehicle, its a good clue that if your brakes go up in smoke at a quick stop towing you have the wrong vehicle, if you can't maintain the speed limit while pulling average grades towing it s a good clue to change,

more to doing this safely than just being able to move the trailer.

I think you'll see that a lot of the 3/4 ton GM pickups come stock with 4.10 rear ends. BUt they also have all the other parts I described which allows them to two greater weight without any modifications.

Just my comments. Even with a 1.25 ton super duty I've been in some situations where I had to really slow it down just to be sure I could stop in a reasonble distance. Never had any problems pulling the weight, did have problems evey now and then stopping, even with the monster brakes on a super duty ford F-550. All depends on the weight your truck is designed to safely move.

What is the length of your travel trailer? I'm planning to purchase one this spring. I have an 05' Z71 ext. cab 1500. I was looking in the 28-30 ft. range, but after reading these post, I may have to rethink it a bit. Thanks.
Joe

Good post Elbert!

Brakes are the main reason I started buying 3/4 tons years ago. My two previous trucks were light duty K2500's and they stoped so-o-o-o much better than the 88-98 style half tons. Even unloaded there was a big difference. Those 1500's were very scary when trying to stop a car hauler.

This time I went with a 2500HD, as I still wanted a heavier duty frame and better brakes, but was also planning on larger tires so I thought I'd start with 4.10 gears to help offset the larger diameter. OK, so I also liked the 2" factory body lift over the standard 2500. :p At 9,200 GVWR it is more like a 1 ton, pulls and hauls most anything (I also have 5,000 pound Air Lift's) stops great, and still rides nice enough to drive everyday. MPG is the same as my friends' half tons and my old Tahoe too. If I was an RVer I'd probably choose the deisel.

[QUOTE=kmschna]Has any of the responders to the oringinal question 'actually' pulled this large amount of weight with a 1500???
QUOTE]

I have towed quite a bit of weight behind my '00 Silverado Z71 1/2 3/73 gears.

It will tow just about anything.. the thing I was more worried about was bottoming out. Stopping is an issue as was mentioned.. don't stay too close to anybody.. Going up hills is a choir. I was only able to do 45mph up the mountains. If I had the 4.10 gears, I would have been able to get up the hills better. I was pulling fulling loaded 6x12 Uhaul Trailer + and fully loaded bed and extended cab. estimated weight was about 7000lbs. But I do not do this all the time to justify getting a 3/4ton truck. But since you will be, then get the bigger truck

[QUOTE=kmschna]Has any of the responders to the oringinal question 'actually' pulled this large amount of weight with a 1500???
QUOTE]

I have towed quite a bit of weight behind my '00 Silverado Z71 1/2 3/73 gears.

It will tow just about anything.. the thing I was more worried about was bottoming out. Stopping is an issue as was mentioned.. don't stay too close to anybody.. Going up hills is a choir. I was only able to do 45mph up the mountains. If I had the 4.10 gears, I would have been able to get up the hills better. I was pulling fulling loaded 6x12 Uhaul Trailer + and fully loaded bed and extended cab. estimated weight was about 7000lbs. But I do not do this all the time to justify getting a 3/4ton truck. But since you will be, then get the bigger truck

I have towed a lot less with a 1500 and it was really working it. I think 122775 answered things pretty well as he towed a trailer and load that he estimates at 1000+ pounds less. He states that his 1500 will tow just about anything, but then goes on to say that it doesn't have enough gear, won't go up hills well, won't stop, and he worries about bottom out.

I guess what I am saying is that it will move just about anything.. but again.. we are talking about safety. the things I mentioned above are the things you have to worry about if you are going to tow something heavy continously (several times a year). That's all.

I guess what I am saying is that it will move just about anything.. but again.. we are talking about safety. the things I mentioned above are the things you have to worry about if you are going to tow something heavy continously (several times a year). That's all.

I figured that. I was serious that you answered the original question well, as you have first hand experience with doing the same thing he wants to do with even a little less weight and you have had the same problems that we were warning him about.

I agree that your situation does not warrant a larger truck as your load was unusual, but if the original poster is going to tow the trailer on a regular basis, he should consider a bigger truck. Well said.:grinyes:

Thank you.. I appreciate the compliment..
Hard to tell if someone is being sarcastic...LOL

I personally think braking is not an issue between the 15oo and 2500 series unless the truck is actually carrying the load in the back. By law any trailers weighing over 2000 lbs must have it's own braking system. I know when I haul the TT I own @ 8000 lb, breaking capacity of the truck is not a concern.

I personally think braking is not an issue between the 15oo and 2500 series unless the truck is actually carrying the load in the back. By law any trailers weighing over 2000 lbs must have it's own braking system. I know when I haul the TT I own @ 8000 lb, breaking capacity of the truck is not a concern.

There is a big differance in the braking.. look at the pads on a 2500 then look at your 1500. A 2500 braking pad are bigger and thicker. Infact, if you never towed anything serious with a 2500, you could potientally never need to replace your brakes for the life of the truck.. that is how thick they are.

Not sure about you, but those brakes on the trailers are designed to keep the trailer from swaying when you stop.. they are not used for actually stopping the trialer.

There is a big differance in the braking.. look at the pads on a 2500 then look at your 1500. A 2500 braking pad are bigger and thicker. Infact, if you never towed anything serious with a 2500, you could potientally never need to replace your brakes for the life of the truck.. that is how thick they are.

Not sure about you, but those brakes on the trailers are designed to keep the trailer from swaying when you stop.. they are not used for actually stopping the trialer.

Nope, the trailer brakes of any trailer is meant as an auxilary braking system to slow/stop its own weight. All trailer brakes are rated to stop the rated load of the trailer itself.
There is no way any 2500 series truck is going to safely stop a 8000lb trailer on it's own, period. And besides, towing one without trailer brakes is against the law.

I personally think braking is not an issue between the 15oo and 2500 series unless the truck is actually carrying the load in the back. By law any trailers weighing over 2000 lbs must have it's own braking system. I know when I haul the TT I own @ 8000 lb, breaking capacity of the truck is not a concern.

brakes are an issue. why do you think they make the brakes larger on a 2500 than a 1500?. More weight equals larger brake system required to stop safely. The bottom line is that a 2500 is designed from the ground up to tow greater weight than a 1500. Its just a fact of design.

IF you are hauling or towing weight that is marginal or even questionable you should consider how well you can stop, and how well the truck handles the weight. There's far more to it than being able to move the load on flat ground.

Re-read my post! The question is about trailer towing/breaking. The 2500 series has a definated advatage in towing and load carrying ability but nothing in breaking when hauling a properly equipped trailer. The heavier suspension, braking, and larger engine of the 2500 series make a better tow vehicle but does not make for much if any better stopping vehical when the trailer being towed has a operational secondary braking system. As any reputable RV dealer.

Have you ever had your brakes burn out on you? you will if you are towing anything with a load. Let's say you are driving down a hill with an RV (as you mentioned) in a 1500. you see something ahead that is requiring you to stop. you hit the brakes in an attempt to stop. Opps the "auxilary brakes" do not work on the trailer. now you have to rely on your front brakes of your 1500 pickup. Opps your brakes start to smoke because there is too much load on them. opps you just ran into the car in front of you. damn.. now whose fault is that?
Now if you had a 2500 or higher, your brakes would not fail on you because they have better stopping power.. Brakes make all the word in differance when it comes to towing. NOt sure about you, but I would not rely on the tailer brakes, I do not care if it is the law to have them, doesn't mean they have to work properly.

Re-read my post! The question is about trailer towing/breaking. The 2500 series has a definated advatage in towing and load carrying ability but nothing in breaking when hauling a properly equipped trailer. The heavier suspension, braking, and larger engine of the 2500 series make a better tow vehicle but does not make for much if any better stopping vehical when the trailer being towed has a operational secondary braking system. As any reputable RV dealer.

Depends what size "properly equipped" trailer. Many snowmobile and car hauling trailers are not equipped with brakes. A light car hauler can suddenly become very heavy when the vehicle being transported is larger than usual.

And please don't spell it "breaking" when we are talking about the load capability of the 1500 as there has been a lot of broken frames at the rear section on the '99 and newer half tons when they haul more than they are designed for.:wink:

Have you ever had your brakes burn out on you? you will if you are towing anything with a load. Let's say you are driving down a hill with an RV (as you mentioned) in a 1500. you see something ahead that is requiring you to stop. you hit the brakes in an attempt to stop. Opps the "auxilary brakes" do not work on the trailer. now you have to rely on your front brakes of your 1500 pickup. Opps your brakes start to smoke because there is too much load on them. opps you just ran into the car in front of you. damn.. now whose fault is that?
Now if you had a 2500 or higher, your brakes would not fail on you because they have better stopping power.. Brakes make all the word in differance when it comes to towing. NOt sure about you, but I would not rely on the tailer brakes, I do not care if it is the law to have them, doesn't mean they have to work properly.

I tend to agree. Besides, GVWR is GVWR whether you have trailer brakes or not. I work in the truck and motor home suspension business, and I've got to admit, if people quit overloading their tow vehicles, we would see a big drop in profits. However, it is downright amazing hearing what people are towing with their daily driver 1500. I would not want to be on the same road is they are. It is a normal conversation to hear someone say that they need help for the extreme suspension sag on their 1500 because they go up north with a 4000 pound plus slide in camper in the back and their 21' speedboat hooked onto an extended trailer hitch reciever. Hope they have a loud horn to so they can warn folks ahead of them before running over them.:eek: