Group buy FMIC pics (56k no no)

Ok guys, don't freakin bash this cause it's from ssautochrome, but here are the pics. I ordered it on Wednesday, and I received it today (Friday).

Front shot
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic1.jpg
Front shot 2
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic2.jpg
Top shot
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic3.jpg
Side end tank shot
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic4.jpg
Front close up
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic6.jpg
End tank welds
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic7.jpg
End tank welds 2
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic8.jpg
End tank pipe welds
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic9.jpg
Mounting bracket
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic10.jpg
Mounting bracket welds
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic11.jpg
Top end tank welds
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic12.jpg
Inside the end tank tube
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic13.jpg
Inside the other end tank tube
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic14.jpg
Piping, couplers, and clamps
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic15.jpg
BOV flange welds
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic16.jpg
All the boxes :rofl:
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic17.jpg
All the boxes 2 :rofl:
http://www.clipsekid99.com/ic/ic18.jpg

I haven't seen many intercoolers up close before, but this looks pretty decent. Let's just hope it performs as well as people on tuners say it does lol. Anyone have any pics they want me to take of anything specific? Also, everything came packaged VERY WELL as you can see in the last two pics. Came in two boxes, one huge on for the core, and another medium for the pipes/everything else. Fast shipping rules.

Looks good man, SSAutoChrome has had allot of bad reviews but maybe there pulling there shit together, quite a few people on here have order this kit so we shale know soon enough.

Looks pretty nice. The main thing that concerns me is that the mounting brackets are welded on. Hope those welds are good, and won't rust...

Can't beat the price; just buying the piping separately would typically cost most of the $300 you paid for the kit. I'm looking forward to dyno results or other reviews.

Me as-well i wanna see some dyno results so u need to go do another dyno after u put it on! :grinyes: .

Will do lol. Another member on here - FourG6397GST and I are gonna install it most likely next sunday, not today the 12th. I will include a bunch of pics for your viewing pleasure lol.

EDIT: Oh ya, almost forgot, I will be selling the Dejon Tool upper L and S intercooler pipes flanged for the type S since I won't be needing them anymore. Anyone want to make an offer?

hmm my friend might be interested any idea what u would want for them?

Not sure yet. Brand new from Dejon, it would be like $180, so maybe around $100 ish. I first need to make sure that the new IC goes on and works before I start selling anything else.

is that shipped and all?

hey clipsekidd, I see a couple of things that in my opinion you should take care of before putting it on. I don't want to turn this into a bash thread, so I'll keep it to PM. However, IMO there's some quality issues, PM me and I'll let ya know how to take care of them.

Me as-well i wanna see some dyno results so u need to go do another dyno after u put it on! :grinyes: .

I'll supply some DSMlink before & after logs when I get around to installing it. I've had Dsmlink for about 4-5 months now & hanven't even botherd putting it in. Im lazzy

I've decited that it's time to put it in when I install my new Short throw shifter, energy shift bushing and under hood shift bearing.

hey make sure to log intake temp b4 and after, I don't remember if it's defaulted on or not. Try to heatsoak the stocker.

I got mine today *saturday* Its sweet, I'm putting mine on sunday too. The box the intercooler came i is the size of a coufin!! The couplers are like four ply silicone.

I don't want to turn this into a bash thread.

As long as it's benificial, this is still an informational website. Even for the good, the bad, and the ugly.

hey make sure to log intake temp b4 and after, I don't remember if it's defaulted on or not
That wont change the intake temp is measured at the maf...

that was a brainfart, thanks for the correction

Ok, I'm posting what crunchy said to me in a PM. I don't think it bashed the kit too much lol. It just states that there are some imperfections in it....

crunchymilk55

ok the insides of the 1st endtank picture look pretty nasty. I'm not sure how that black gunk and scratches got in there, but rest assured, those would easily peel off into your engine. The best way to fix this is using the same technique as cleaning a used intercooler. Cap one end off and pour gasoline or rubbing alcohol in there. Shake it up alot and let it wear down whatever that stuff is. Let it drain out, look at it's color. Then do the whole thing again, if the color is the same then stop, but if it's lighter and less dirty, then do it again and again until all that stuf is out of there. About the scratches, there is really nothing you can do, just hope they don't impede airflow. I don't know what that gunk is, but better to get it out now before it gets in your engine. Obviously gasoline and rubbing alcohol can be dangerous, so be very careful around it. This will also find any leaks if there happens to be a misweld somewhere. Obviously let it dry completely in open air.

Now take a look at the other endtank picture, see that metal flaking towards the center. See how thing it is? It could break off with little force I bet. Imagine what repeated beatings of air at high pressure levels. If some of that flakes off and goes into your engine, it's rebuild time. IMO, I would take a dremel to it. Get it as smooth as possible. Not only does it impede air flow, but this could literally destroy your engine IMO. This is something you really need to fix before you bolt it up. After you dremel it, make sure to get all of it out, pour water in it or something. You could even do this first, then clean the insides. From the pic, it looks like there is even rust in it? How the hell did it rust? Fix that too before you bolt it on.

I can't tell if the couplers are any good, but make sure they are sturdy, they should be REALLY tight, you shouldn't even be able to get them on without soap and water. If those are T-bolt clamps then they're fine. Are the edges beaded? I can't tell, if they're not, you will pop your piping loose, trust me.

Also, I don't know the exact dimensions, but this short route piping requires cutting some metal, I'm not sure if you knew this or not. Here's a link to install the SBR one, look at the pics, they use the same piping style I think.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201610

Be ready to have to bvent your BOV for a while. I don't know that pipe setup, but it will rotate your BOV or move it somewhere where the stock line won't be able to work, so youll need something to cap off the intake and make that spring tigher on the BOV. If you figure out a material that works to recirculate again, let me know, I am still venting because nothing will make the bends I need.


I think this is beneficial to me, scottsee, ez, and anyone else who might purchase this.

hey make sure to log intake temp b4 and after.

I knew what you were getting at. Which got me thinking. How would I go about testing the effency of this intercooler when no one will ever really know what it is. I spent about 45 min's searching Dsmtuner, and found a few guys running intercooler temp gauges to tell when heat soaking is setting in. Autometer makes a dual stage intake temp guage for $300 (way to much) and some other company I cant reamber off hand that does the same thing but has small LCD screen and cost $250. A few crafty indiviguals have used Computer Intake Temp devices used to turn extra internal fans on when clock speeds exceed the standerd operating temps, and riged them to read their intercooler fins temp.$16-$40. The best one I found was Coolmist's $99 dual sensor digital temp gauge with a switch you can change from before & after intercooler. This one by far was the most cost effecent marketed product I found.

After thinking about it, I realised that useing a digital gauge wouldn't benifit me in the slightest. I needed to log Airflow, G/rev, Intake Temp, Rev, Boost and cross time refrence it with the charged air temp before and after the intercooler to get the # I need to get caculate this intercooler's effency. And the only way for me to do this is to log this aftermarket IAT sensor dirrectly into Dsmlink.... Somehow...

After a little research in the dsmlink fourms I discoverd Dave has updated the client software with a GM IAT 5v sensor input that has >15 second reaction time. (not that good, but good enough). This followed from a request to log Intake temputure at the manifold or TB in hopes of having a user defined slider to decrease timing manualy when temps were to high. But also to give us the ability to log "Actual" air temp. Not just whats seen at the MAS.

Point beeing. If anyone using Dsmlink is intrested in loging actual AIT's at the TB you'll need to buy the GM IAT sensor (same one used in the AEM EMS to log IAT's) install it in to the air stream somewhere near the TB & tap the sending wires into the intake air temp input of the ECU.

Bad news is was just added to the client software late december and no one has done it yet.

anyone with form access can read about it here... http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3226&page=1&pp=15&highlight=IAT

I think EZ was supposed to pressure test it today.... but he is real lazy lol... That front mount picture looked a little shady, the insides looked kinda messed up EZ front mount didn't look bad like that... but hey... see if cleaning it out gets that crap out and let us know... When is the 1g group buy happening?

I just remembered that I knew I've seen this core before.... the core is "identicle" as a Spearco 2-216 by the means of dimensions, shape, and build. But, who knows if it flows as good as it.

Also, this is very much like the 2g DSM AGP kit, except for the choice of bov flange, and a new coolant overflow tank.

I just pressure tested mine and it held 30 psi indefinetly. I took some pics of the set-up and i'll post them later. Whoever said something about the brackets rusting: they are aluminum and so aree the welds. All the pipes are stainless and the couplers are really high quality. The pipe are all flared except the ones on the intercooler those are notched. I'm working on mine as we speak it's just cold as shit so i needed to come inside and warm up.

Ooooooooooooooooooo I can't wait to see it! I can't do mine until next Sunday :banghead:

Looks pretty good, whats the core sive on that? Did that come with the short route piping? and crunchymilk5, are you having problems when venting?

I hate living in Washington. I'll be getting mine on the 16th

If I posted some pics of my fmic that I just, would anyone be willing to see what needs to be done before install?

is it short rout piping? if so i can link u to a dsm-tuners that shows where u have to cut for the piping to go.

Heres the link for the short rout piping.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=201610

venting is always a problem, but I'm living with it. The ECU has learned to deal with it, but I am still running really rich inbetween shifts and slows down the spool after a shift. One of these days I'll fix it, I've just been busy with school.

I'm gonna be going to Home Depot sometime this week to look for a suitable pipe/hose to keep it recirculated. I'll let everyone know if I find something.

Thats where I'm going to get the mounting brackets

Seeing EZ FMIC makes me mad that there isn't a 1G FMIC group buy yet.... lets gogoogogog

Wow i just worked on my car for like 12 hours, I'm almost done but it's too late to cut any metal. I have the front mount mounted and the cool side pipes all done the hot side is a little bit of a problem cause i need to modify it cause i have the 16g. It looks even bigger on the car!! I'll post pics and a write-up tomorrow if i have time.
p.s. anyone with the kit you need a 6" silicone coupler for the outlet on the cool side unless you do some serious cutting to the radiator support. I have diesel truck radiator piping rated to 300 psi pm me if you need some. You'll also need to more of the larger t-bolt clamps.

did u go over everything to make sure it was all clean before u put it on?

did u go over everything to make sure it was all clean before u put it on?
Yeah it was all fine...There was some dark stuff below th bov flange but it was jut from them welding it.

cant wait to see pics! I'll be posting some of my cars "progress" as well