Stalling

I have a 2002 Cavalier with the 2200 notor. The car runs beautifully while cruising but not when I come to a stop. The car tends to stall while it sits in one position for a while. For instance stop lights stop signs etc. While in idle the rpms tend to surge and then drop below the .5 thousand mark on the tach. I just recently installed new spark plugs thinking that that could be the the problem it helped a little bit, but it still stalls. This problem is getting very annoying as I have to keep worrying about the car stalling out at intersections and such. Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thank You for your time.

how old are your plug wires. and how many miles are on the car. Could be a gummy injectors but it is probably just simply your fuel filter.

The car has 57000 miles on it. The plug wires are the original wires that came with the vehicle.

I took the car in today for an inspection and they said that there was absolutely nothing wrong with the car.

With only 57000 miles on it I would't suspect that the injectors being gummy would be an issue but it probably wouldn't hurt to use up a few tanks of fuel with some injector cleaner in it. You may want to check out your IAC valve. It could be dirty and sticky. ITs usually located close to the throttle body in the intake plenum. When you remove it use an intake cleaner that is safe for your car. An old tooth brush helps too. When you are cleaning it, make sure that the end with the spring and pintle (part that was in the plenum) is pointing down while you gently clean and dry it. You will also want to clean and dry the port that the IAC came out. Replace the valve and start your car. You could then use the cleaner to clean your plenum with the car running. You will have to put one hand on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling. Again, make sure that the cleaner you get is safe for your engine. After that, rev it a few times to get all the cleaner out. Hopefully that helps.

I'd say do a tune up, change the fuel filter and slam some injector cleaner. Cleaning the tb and the iac is good but I've never done it.

u gotta figure that if it stalls at low rpms...(as in ur just sitting there its idling at 1000 rpms) its either ignition or fuel/air ratio goin into the engine...after trying a tune up, if that dosnt help, try ignition system first...mabye a new ignition coil or Distributor? that would be my first choice...hope that helps

I have a 2002 Cavalier with the 2200 notor. The car runs beautifully while cruising but not when I come to a stop. The car tends to stall while it sits in one position for a while. For instance stop lights stop signs etc. While in idle the rpms tend to surge and then drop below the .5 thousand mark on the tach. I just recently installed new spark plugs thinking that that could be the the problem it helped a little bit, but it still stalls. This problem is getting very annoying as I have to keep worrying about the car stalling out at intersections and such. Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thank You for your time.

I hate these cavaliers. Mine's doing the same thing. Do your RPMs drop on acceleration and then rise?

I hate these cavaliers. Mine's doing the same thing. Do your RPMs drop on acceleration and then rise?

I know off hand that the 2003 and 2004 Cavaliers need to have their PCM's re-programmed due to this problem, there's a bulletin for them. Not too sure about the 2002's.

My 2003 did the same thing, I'd have full power but sometimes when I'd push the clutch in or come to a stop the RPM's would drop to 400 or so, and sometimes it would cut out. On my lunch break at work one day I looked in SI to see if there was any PCM updates, sure enough there was. I brought my car in after work, re-programmed the PCM and the problem hasn't come back since.

I know off hand that the 2003 and 2004 Cavaliers need to have their PCM's re-programmed due to this problem, there's a bulletin for them. Not too sure about the 2002's.

My 2003 did the same thing, I'd have full power but sometimes when I'd push the clutch in or come to a stop the RPM's would drop to 400 or so, and sometimes it would cut out. On my lunch break at work one day I looked in SI to see if there was any PCM updates, sure enough there was. I brought my car in after work, re-programmed the PCM and the problem hasn't come back since.

Do you think this could be causing my problem too? I have a 1994 v6 and it pretty much does the same thing. I haven't heard about any reprogramming needed for these though.

Do you think this could be causing my problem too? I have a 1994 v6 and it pretty much does the same thing. I haven't heard about any reprogramming needed for these though.

I don't think this would be your problem. I don't think the computers in those cars can be re-programmed.

My 01,manul is doing exactly the same thing. It seems a common problem for cavaliers. Is there any solution about this？

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I have a Chevy Cavalier (manual 2.2) that sometimes it turns off, Let’s say you drive for about 30 mins and the car loses the power, you try Giving gas and gas and it doesn’t do anything, so to get it working again You have to turn it off then back on. Sometimes when are waiting at the Red light it turns off for no reason, it doesn’t make noises or anything wrong That you can tell right away what’s the problem. It’s been with this problem For about 2 months, the same thing over and over about 3 to 5 times per day.

Something weird is that if it’s a cold day or raining the car doesn’t faint, but if It’s hot the problems shows up.

BTW, no check engine light on, I have replaced coil packs, ignition mod, fuel filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and had a injector cleanning. Still no help.:banghead:

If someone has had any experience like this one or knows what’s going? Please let me know.
Thanks a lot.
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hell you brought this thing back from the dead

hell you brought this thing back from the dead

Shut up if u have no idea on this...

I did have an idea 3 months ago..... and said it

I know, for GM Chevy (automatic), 80% cause of stalling when warm should be a bad T.C.C. Solenoid. But what if a manual one?

Many thanks if anyone can give any infomation.:iceslolan

try cleaning the idle control valve, it is on the throttle body. or check the throttle position sensor maybe. just a thought, mine does the same thing but i think it's because of my boost guage, i think it has a smmall vacuum leak or something

I replaced the crank sensor and discovered when you move the wire harness going to the injectors it would shut off....but start immediately....move the harness and it would shut off.....going do road would shut off....in back of engine on this wire harness was a plug and pushed on it and have not had the problem since. Might try that....

Yesterday, it gave the trouble code p0107 (MAP too low). Does it make sense?

Thanks for any suggestion...

was it a bad transmission solenoid?

okay...same issue with a 2003 Sunfire, dies at start (sometimes) surging idle. I have replaced the IAC valve the throttle position sensor and cleaned the throttle body...still having issues. I found a bulletin for the Saturn Ion with a 2.2L (same engine as mine) that required computer to be reprogrammed. Can this be done on an 03 sunfire? Does anyone know approx what it will cost? The dealer already told me it will be 100 just to pull it in the garage, then goes from there... Any additional info would be appreciated!!

You can pick up an ECU from your local parts store for about $120, but you'll need your dealer to flash it, which costs about $60. Before you do that though, unhook your top oxygen sensor and start the car and see if it still has that problem. Don't run it very long like that though. If it doesn't crap out, you have a plugged catalytic converter. They're about 65- 100 dollars for a universal and over 200 for direct fit.

Have you noticed anything else about the stalling? Does it happen only when the car is cold or warm?

Thank you for the info!! It is really intermittent and seems to do it more when hot, but has done it when cold too. The A/C turned off makes it more apparent, but doesn't go away when turned on.

If you have a scanner or a local garage you should scan the codes. You don't want to have to pour in money to fix your car that isn't necessary (unless you're like me and want a bunch of new stuff :P).

That is the most frustrating part is that it isn't throwing any codes. The mechanic was dumbfounded and said that it can only be the computer at this point. He has always been really good to me and done good work, but I am worried that I should go somewhere else. I hate to pay for another diagnostic to hear the same thing, but if it doesn't sound right then I guess it would be best... Thank you again for all of your help.

If you aren't getting any codes then it has to be the ECU. You can get one for about $120 bucks, but you need to bring it to your dealership to get it set for your car ($50+).