Click Click ... hard to start info

I have just installed a starter button in my car to bypass the ignition switch. I did this based on the theory presented here and on team swift that the switch design was the culprit. It is possible that this is not the case, but it is not a big deal because the solution is the same either way; add a relay. After much thought about how I wanted to set the relay up I decided the easiest way was to;
* Attach the relay near the starter

* Remove the starter wire and plug it into the switching side of the relay

* Ground the other terminal of the switching side of the relay

* Connect one terminal of the switched side of the relay to the positive wire on the starter

* Connect the other terminal of the switched side of the relay to the solenoid where you unplugged the starter wire

this should give a clean, strong 12v to the solenoid and eliminate that annoying click.

I read your other thread on no start MM and see you already replaced the starter.

I would start by checking my battery and its connections if they are good I would then (with car in neutral) I would grab my serpentine belt and try to rotate the crank to make sure something in engine isn't locked up. Next I would check the small blade type female connector that plugs into the back side of the starter. It should slide right off, with it disconnected check it with a test light by having someone turn the key to crank - your test light should glow brightly, if it doesn't then you should suspect an ignition switch problem. I have had to clean this connector before on my Geo for the same problem your having and it fixed it. If it glows nice and bright and if you also have 12 volts at the large battery feed cable to the starter then you should take the starter back and exchange it.

Multiple people have experienced this same problem with the metro. If the starter gets a good 12v it will work every time, but unfortunately whe way the system is designed it won't do it with any consistancy. Using the relay eliminates that problem because it doesn't take anywhere near the power to throw the relay and connect the starter to a strong 12v. This is an issue I have been dealing with ever since I have had the car, 6+ years now, and I have replaced the starter, added grounds, added an extra wire to the +12v connection on the starter, replaced batteries and cables and nothing eliminates the problem because the dinky starter wire and the losses associated with the circuit before the power gets to the starter prevent the solenoid from "throwing" hard enough to make a good connection and energize the starter motor. I posted this to give those that are having this problem, but no clue how to set up the relay, the simplest way to connect it.

Thanks
P.S. I wouldn't flame anyone over their opinion on something like that. I don't spend a lot of time on team swift and use it primarily as a location to research things I want to do to the car and to figure out what is possible and what is too much work.

Jon

It makes sense now. Does this only apply to your generation Metro?

I haven't paid that much attention to the years of the cars that have reported the problem but that may be the case. It turns out that the contacts in the switch I bought were definately too puny so the problem may still be with the ignition switch, the good news is the relay makes a world of difference. The easiest way to describe the effect is the difference between using normal bulbs and LED bulbs in your lights. Before it was slow to kick the solenoid and sometimes wouldn't spin the starter and now it starts immediately. If you are having this problem the relay will fix it.

Jon

The easiest way to describe the effect is the difference between using normal bulbs and LED bulbs in your lights.

Jon, do you mean compact flourescant bulbs, which, compared to the old incandescant bulbs take a second or two to heat up and produce light? I didn't understand what you meant until I thought of this.

LED is a light emmiting diode (another acronym for Bill) LED's use incredilbly small amounts of electricity to create light, but they are quite tiny. These are likely the types of lights scattered about your computer and other various electronics in your home.

Jai

Jai, a lot of modern cars are using LED's in 3rd brake lights and tail lights. If you are behind a car that has standard bulbs in the tail lights and LED's for a 3rd brake light, watch the difference in how quickly they light up. LED's light up instantaneously and the bulbs take time to warm up and give off light. the difference is not huge, but it is noticeable. I noticed the same thing with the relay, it kicks the solenoid immediately, where before there was an almost imperceptible delay in how fast the solenoid worked. That was, of course, followed by the crap shoot of whether or not the starter would turn. It now works every time (and the starter button looks cool too).