How to Replace pitman arm/idler arm

Hello everyone!!

I'm new at the forum and I have been reading for the last two days the treads. I have a 1998 Jimmy 2dr. and reading this tread about "Steering Slope" http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=370830&highlight=facts+steering+slop (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=370830&highlight=facts+steering+slop) I came to a conclussion that it may be the case of my problem. I was told (by a mechanic shop:screwy: ) to replace the ball joints/pitman/idler in the truck, but now I think I will replace first the itermediate shaft and the pitman arm, then I will worry about the rest later.

Can somebody tell me how difficult is to replace the pitman/idler arms? is there a critical issue I should know about this? and what kind of torque pressure should the pitman/idler be tight?

I may put a new intermediate column shaft at the same time with the pitman/idler, what do you think?

I really appreciate your input. Thanks to people like you and these forums, other will benefit from your knoledge.

Consider switching to a solid shaft. Look at this thread. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=510608 That said, for the pitman arm you will need to pull the steering box. Remove both lines going to the box from the power steering (16mm, DO NOT USE SAE WRENCHES) Use a 16mm box wrench to remove the castle nut holding the pitman arm to the center link. Use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate it. (much like you would on a balljoint) Remove the drivers side wheel. Remove the 3 18mm bolts on the frame that hold the steering box on. Work the steering box out. Using 1-1/4 socket, remove the large nut holding the pitman arm to the box. Using a pitman arm remover claw, pull the pitman arm. Be aware though, it's one tough SOB. I broke 3 craftsman breaker bars getting one off. The second one I did, I just brought to a local shop and had them pull it for 10 bux. Mount new pitman arm, torque down to 125 ft pounds, install in reverse of the above. The idler arm is similar. Remove the passenger side wheel. Using a 16mm box wrench, remove the castle nut holding the idler arm to the center link. Use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate. Use an extension and an 18mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding the idler arm to the frame. Be careful though, you don't want to drop those bolts in the frame so pull them out slowly. Install new idler arm in reverse. After you do this, your front end WILL require alignment. Get it or lose your tires and deal with heavy vibration. Hope that helps.

Consider switching to a solid shaft. Look at this thread. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=510608 That said, for the pitman arm you will need to pull the steering box. Remove both lines going to the box from the power steering (16mm, DO NOT USE SAE WRENCHES) Use a 16mm box wrench to remove the castle nut holding the pitman arm to the center link. Use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate it. (much like you would on a balljoint) Remove the drivers side wheel. Remove the 3 18mm bolts on the frame that hold the steering box on. Work the steering box out. Using 1-1/4 socket, remove the large nut holding the pitman arm to the box. Using a pitman arm remover claw, pull the pitman arm. Be aware though, it's one tough SOB. I broke 3 craftsman breaker bars getting one off. The second one I did, I just brought to a local shop and had them pull it for 10 bux. Mount new pitman arm, torque down to 125 ft pounds, install in reverse of the above. The idler arm is similar. Remove the passenger side wheel. Using a 16mm box wrench, remove the castle nut holding the idler arm to the center link. Use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate. Use an extension and an 18mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding the idler arm to the frame. Be careful though, you don't want to drop those bolts in the frame so pull them out slowly. Install new idler arm in reverse. After you do this, your front end WILL require alignment. Get it or lose your tires and deal with heavy vibration. Hope that helps.


Do you know anywhere to buy the solid shaft? The only one's I've found are for 95 Jimmy's and back, even at the main website for the solid shaft makers they don't have 98's listed anywhere. I'd prefer a bolt on rather than he jeep shaft convert because I really don't want to be dremelling off peices of my stub hehe.

Do you know anywhere to buy the solid shaft? The only one's I've found are for 95 Jimmy's and back, even at the main website for the solid shaft makers they don't have 98's listed anywhere. I'd prefer a bolt on rather than he jeep shaft convert because I really don't want to be dremelling off peices of my stub hehe. You can go with the borgeson setups...They run anywhere between 200 and 300 bux though.

You can go with the borgeson setups...They run anywhere between 200 and 300 bux though.

Hmm they listed none for 98 jimmy's at all. Guess I'll e-mail them

Not stock no, they will custom build one for you

[QUOTE=rlith] After you do this, your front end WILL require alignment. Get it or lose your tires and deal with heavy vibration.

Rlith,
Great post! Great information!

In reference to your last sentence: I might add that the pitman arm and idler arm support the steering linkage and are not a means of adjustment for toe in, (the most critical tire wear angle). However, as they wear they will cause toe in to vary from the original setting. Once they are replaced, toe will revert back to where it was before the wear occurred. This also holds true with ball joints, center links and control arm bushings. All suspension and steering linkage components must be within wear tolerance specs for an alignment to "hold" its adjustment. This is why most shops will refuse to do an alignment if something is worn. Alignment is absolutely necessary after any inner and/or outer tie rod replacement due to the fact this is where the toe in adjustment is made. Don't misunderstand me; alignment is something that should not be neglected. Most manufacturers recommend twice a year. It's cheap insurance for expensive tires, not to mention the peace of mind having the vehicle handle correctly, and safely.

Consider switching to a solid shaft. Look at this thread. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=510608 That said, for the pitman arm you will need to pull the steering box. Remove both lines going to the box from the power steering (16mm, DO NOT USE SAE WRENCHES) Use a 16mm box wrench to remove the castle nut holding the pitman arm to the center link. Use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate it. (much like you would on a balljoint) Remove the drivers side wheel. Remove the 3 18mm bolts on the frame that hold the steering box on. Work the steering box out. Using 1-1/4 socket, remove the large nut holding the pitman arm to the box. Using a pitman arm remover claw, pull the pitman arm. Be aware though, it's one tough SOB. I broke 3 craftsman breaker bars getting one off. The second one I did, I just brought to a local shop and had them pull it for 10 bux. Mount new pitman arm, torque down to 125 ft pounds, install in reverse of the above. The idler arm is similar. Remove the passenger side wheel. Using a 16mm box wrench, remove the castle nut holding the idler arm to the center link. Use a pickle fork and a BFH to seperate. Use an extension and an 18mm socket to remove the 2 bolts holding the idler arm to the frame. Be careful though, you don't want to drop those bolts in the frame so pull them out slowly. Install new idler arm in reverse. After you do this, your front end WILL require alignment. Get it or lose your tires and deal with heavy vibration. Hope that helps.

Thank you very much rtlith for your posting. I have an issue with Steering Slope too. So I may just go ahead and do the pitman/ilder at the same time.

Cheers!!

I did a bit of leg work and found this out about replacing the intermediate with a solid shaft from the makers:

"We do not offer replacement shafts for '95-'98 models because of liability issues due to the shafts being integrated with the air bag system. An OEM replacement is probably about the only option.
Thanks,
Gil Evans
Borgeson Universal"

Just in case anyone else was interested.

I did a bit of leg work and found this out about replacing the intermediate with a solid shaft from the makers:

"We do not offer replacement shafts for '95-'98 models because of liability issues due to the shafts being integrated with the air bag system. An OEM replacement is probably about the only option.
Thanks,
Gil Evans
Borgeson Universal"

Just in case anyone else was interested.

Interesting. I know a few people that bought their parts to create a solid shaft. But that said, for the 25 bux I spent, this has been one of the best mods I've done. I've been inspecting the shaft every day for giggles since I've done it. It's still been perfect and I beat the hell out of it on Pittsburgh roads.

I just ripped apart this '97 jimmy. the socket is NOT 1 1/4". unless the 3 snap-on sockets I own are too small, including the 12pt. I will go to o'reilly auto tomorrow and get the right size. most likely a 32/34mm.

Thanks,
MN300zx