Stupid local car audio shop

Ok story is.... I have had 2 12s run through an audiolink from my 6x9's. The subs worked great when I had my stock HU in but after they put a "new" HU in they dont work at all. Now granted they arent the greatest or NEWEST subs, amp and HU. They place that installed the HU says OOO ur subs are bad u need new ones... tested em, fine. OOO ur amp is messed up.... havnet tested that yet. OOO could be you audio link.... put a new one in, still nothing. They said that it is my amp and I am going to stick an exact same one in (Kicker KX200.2) and see what that does. If that isnt the problem they want me to run RCA's from the HU to the amp it self. I think they have no clue what they are talking about and wanted to get some better advice. Set-up isn't the greatest so don't rip on it. 2 12 Kicker Comp, 1 KX200.2 amp and some old ass Kenwood HU. Any Advice?

don't go to "local" car audio shops.

DIY all the way.

Yeah a buddy of mine had a shop do his and it sucked.For some reason his amp stayed on 1 time when he took out the fuse and disconnected the wire form the batt and it cam eon wtf.Could not fig it out at all.But i all ways say diy.Scoot

thiis shop doesn't sound too good at troubleshooting .... if they installed it, THEY need to fix it, Just remember, most of the kids at these local shops don't know much more about stereo stuff than you do, they just have a little more experience.

They are USUALLY pretty good... its just easier for me to go there and have them install my headunit and shit since they can do it a little faster and i dont have the time sometimes. I guess DIY is the way to go now.

So i un-bridged the subs which i have no clue why they were bridged in the first place but when i un-bridged em they started working again. WTF?

if you bridged the amp and had both subs in parrallel, the load might have been to low an impedance.

if you bridged the amp and had both subs in parrallel, the load might have been to low an impedance.
I don't understand. I thought too low of impedance caused the amp to overheat, not, not play.

I don't understand. I thought too low of impedance caused the amp to overheat, not, not play.



many protection circuits are sensitive enough to kick the amp into protection even if the final load is only half of what the amps minimum is

many protection circuits are sensitive enough to kick the amp into protection even if the final load is only half of what the amps minimum is
Ah, I wasn't thinking about protection mode. Good point.

If you cant install a head unit in the time the shop has to have your car you = teh suck.

biggest PITA HU ive ever done took me 1 1/2hrs in the cold after dark with the only light the dome light (yeah, not smart, but i needed something) and that was because i had to do geuss and check because the12volt.com's wireing color code where very wrong.

The only thing they can do faster than me is enclosures because they have enclosures preprogrammed into a computer and they have an automated saw so basically the 'tards at the shop throw some MDF on the saw, it cuts a sheet, they may have to move it once or twice, then they just have to glue and screw and they probably have 3 knuckle heads working on one enclosure and only one knowing WTF is going on.

biggest PITA HU ive ever done took me 1 1/2hrs in the cold after dark with the only light the dome light (yeah, not smart, but i needed something) and that was because i had to do geuss and check because the12volt.com's wireing color code where very wrong.

The only thing they can do faster than me is enclosures because they have enclosures preprogrammed into a computer and they have an automated saw so basically the 'tards at the shop throw some MDF on the saw, it cuts a sheet, they may have to move it once or twice, then they just have to glue and screw and they probably have 3 knuckle heads working on one enclosure and only one knowing WTF is going on.
Damn. I've had to do it in the conditions (maybe, don't knwo your specifics or vehicle), but I had the advantage of color code being correct. That was cold and sucky. Took maybe a half hour. Couldn't imagine bein' out there any longer.

Enclosures - But are their enclosures what you want? Something slapped together based on generic driver properties, that may not fit in your vehicle the way you want it to? The CNC machine would be a fun tool though. I'ma look into building one when I get my own place. A DIY CNC machine can cost <$1k and still have .005" accuracy. Good enough for me!

yea, most amplifier outputs have impedance load "sensors" .... they shut off the amp if the impedance is too, to protect the output section.