Clutch has no pressure

Okay guys, while coming home from the gym tonight, my clutch lost all pressure and would not come back up after it is pushed down. First thing that came to my mind was that my clutch fluid was out but I checked it and it is super dirty but there's still fluid. So now what? The car starts but no pressure, no nothing, which means no gearing. What do you guys think? Master/slave cylinder? I see the master but where's the slave located at? I know stealth316.com has instructions on how to bleed but that's for a TT....is the NA the same (meaning the location of the parts)? Yeah, I haven't looked yet because I just got home right now and it's too dark tonight to check so I will be on it first thing when I get home from work tomorrow. So yeah, where do you guys think I should start to diagnose the problem?

I was kinda thinking of trying to bleed it first and if that doesn't work then maybe try changing the master or slave and possibly even doing both. But yeah let me know what you guys think I should do first and where to start looking for the problem. As far as I could tell, there were no leaks around the master cylinder. Thanks in advance guys. My poor babie is hurt again... :(

My guess is that the parts are in the same spots, but I can't be sure.

Look to see if there is any fluid by the slave on the tranny, or by the clutch pedal itself. Its almost definitely a hydraulic issue.

I'll check the clutch pedal tomorrow after work. I'll also look for the slave....so basically right now I'm looking for leaks right? Fluid on the clutch pedal itself or fluid from the slave (since the master doesn't seem to be leaking). And the slave is located next to the tranny? On top somewhere I'm assuming!?! Any other ideas just keep posting because I could use all the help I can get (yeah, I'm such a newb when it comes to these things but hey, gotta start somewhere right :p). Thanks guys!!!

Fluid by the clutch pedal would mean a faulty slave.;)

As for the slave, it may bhe easier to pull the intake arm off to get a good view of the slave. Its right nest to where the engine and tranny meet, toward the firewall down low. I am sure stealth316 has a pic. Its going to be basically the same even though Jeffs site is for TT's.

hey guys, I was about to ask the same exact question, except I havent had the time to investigate hardly anything yet. Now, I have basically the same problem.. absolutely no pressure... just enough to sedn the pedal back up. I Haven checked the fluid yet, I am actually not even sure where the resovoir is located?? If you guys know of a site that could show me a picture (94 3000GT SL) that shows everything I would greatly appreciate it. Also, is the slave an expensive fix? Thanks again.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-clutchbleeding.htm

Picture of the clutch master cylinder at the bottom. This is for a TT, but it should be the same/similar. Check the fluid, find the leak, and bleed as directed.

hey guys, I was about to ask the same exact question, except I havent had the time to investigate hardly anything yet. Now, I have basically the same problem.. absolutely no pressure... just enough to sedn the pedal back up. I Haven checked the fluid yet, I am actually not even sure where the resovoir is located?? If you guys know of a site that could show me a picture (94 3000GT SL) that shows everything I would greatly appreciate it. Also, is the slave an expensive fix? Thanks again.


What's up man, I think we pretty much have the same problem (except my clutch doesn't come back up at all). I have a '94 SL as well so we could definitely help each other out.

I'm still at work right now but will be off in 2 hours so I'll report back on whatever I find. As far as prices go, 3sx sells both master and slave but it's a bit more pricey: http://www.3sxperformance.com/clutch.asp
You could also purchase from this Mitsubishi site which is a lot cheaper: http://www.mitsubishi-parts-dealer.com/
I don't know if that Mitsubishi site is the cheapest OEM parts place online but they're a lot cheaper than my local dealership. However, I may need to get the parts right away so I don't know if I can wait...ugh! Also, if you decide to change one, I think you should just go ahead and change both the master as well as the slave. Some have not had any problems changing just one but some have so for me, I'd just get both of them out of the way if I had to change them.
But yeah, like I said, I'll report back tonight after I get home and go under my hood. If anyone else has any other suggestions on where to look or what to do, I'm all ears. And if at all possible, come back on in 2 hours as I will actually be next to my car and computer. Hehe Thanks a lot guys!!! :)

Thank you all for the help, I wont have anytime until thursday to check things out (busy college life, you know). But I will reply with the update. Also, I forgot to ask, what type of clutch fluid do I need?? I looked in the book but it said somethin else, maybe I just misread it though. Thanks again.
Slade - good luck, let me know whats up.

DOT3 brake fluid

Alrighty guys, I have some good news. I looked around the clutch pedal and it looks very dry but on top, I saw like 2 drops of fluid. Not sure so I did what Stealthee said and took off the intake pipe and there it was--the slave cylinder. As I touched it, lo and behold it is leaking. So now I will be replacing the slave but will probably go ahead and replace the master as well.

My question now is how the hell do I remove it? Both of them. The slave I could see the screws/bolts and stuff but there are a lot of stuff around it. As far as the master goes, it seems very complicated as I don't know how I would get my tools in there. So yeah, instructions/pictures/step-by-step procedures and what not would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for much for the help thus far guys. I really appreciate it!!!!

Alrighty guys, I have some good news. I looked around the clutch pedal and it looks very dry but on top, I saw like 2 drops of fluid. Not sure so I did what Stealthee said and took off the intake pipe and there it was--the slave cylinder. As I touched it, lo and behold it is leaking. So now I will be replacing the slave but will probably go ahead and replace the master as well.

My question now is how the hell do I remove it? Both of them. The slave I could see the screws/bolts and stuff but there are a lot of stuff around it. As far as the master goes, it seems very complicated as I don't know how I would get my tools in there. So yeah, instructions/pictures/step-by-step procedures and what not would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for much for the help thus far guys. I really appreciate it!!!!
There are instructions on stealth316. Its possible to do without removing the brake booster but its a tight fit.

There are instructions on stealth316. Its possible to do without removing the brake booster but its a tight fit.


I've tried looking but I seem to keep missing it. I remember Musashi saying that there was one too but I couldn't find it... :banghead:

Slave Replacement...

http://www.penguinhosting.net/~bigmac/homepage/cars/faqs/slavecylinder/slavecylinder.html

Ill keep looking for the master replacement, I just Replaced both about a month ago and I cant seem the find that one for some reason...

Awesome, thank you so much Beef66. And if you can find the master, that would be great as that one seems very complicated to get to... Now I just have to order the parts! :)

Okay, quick question about parts. I was reading on 3sx about the "Stainless Steel Braided Clutch Slave Lines"....how likely is it that those would need to be replaced? If I need to, I would rather just get it done now and not have to go back down there but if it's rare that it actually goes bad then I will not touch it.
Secondly, are there any special tools that I need to remove the clutch cylinders? From the link Beef66 posted, I need that flare piece (10mm, right?). How about for the master? Any particular tool(S)? Yeah, I need to get everything together so that I could do a swap ASAP when the parts get in before it starts raining again. Thanks.

You can do it without the flare wrench but it makes life alot easier, I did my slave without it but I couldnt get the hardline off my master without it because i was started to be rounded off and there isnt room for a regular wrench...I also replaced my clutch line with a ss one but I just figured i would do it while I was at it...

So Beef, the 10mm flare wrench is all that I need to get right? I'll check AutoZone later... Any luck on finding the instructions for the master cylinder?

http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=297067&highlight=master+cylinder+replacement

There you go...

As for the wrench good luck finding just one...I only could find a 10pc craftsman set at sears...Cost me $40 but I really dont mind adding it to Help along my collection of tools...

Thanks Beef66. Yeah, I've been looking around online for crowfoot wrenches and the only one that I could really find like the first link that you posted was from Sears. But like you said, I could always use it for something else so no worries about getting a bit more. What sucks though is that I don't know if I could get the parts by this weekend because my local dealership was saying that shipment doesn't come in until Tuesday of next week. DOH! So yeah, I may have to pay extra to have it shipped here early or something....but gosh, that just sucks!! LOL

Screw the dealer. Just get one from Advance or Auto Zone or whatever.

Ya just do to advance or what not, I got my slave from 3sx but I had ordered a few other things at that time so...But i got my master from advance...It works out nicely, my friends dad is a manager so I get 20% off of everything :smile:

Screw the dealer. Just get one from Advance or Auto Zone or whatever.

I've been wondering about that myself so can you tell me the difference? My mentality has always been that if I go aftermarket, I'm gonna upgrade something. Otherwise, if I don't upgrade then I'll just stay stock and get genuine Mitusubishi parts since it's "original". I dunno though....is there a difference? Cause shew, my dealership is charging about 140 for the master and 65 for the slave. :banghead: You guys give me some good reasons (aside from price difference) and I'll definitely be easily persuaded to go the other way. Hehe :biggrin:

THe slave cost me something like $60 at advance if I remember right.

Well, here's another question....if I end up getting the parts from a local store, which brand do I get? There's a couple of 'em: Raybestos (which I believe they're good at brakes), Beck/Arnley, Tru Torque, Bendix, BRAKEWARE, and LUK. Help!?!

I cant tell you what brand mine was because the guy I get it from pick me the best part for the price...One good reason is you can get them in one day...

Well, is there any real advantage as far as getting an OEM part vs aftermarket? If not then I think I'm gonna go with the Beck/Arnleys. That way I could work on it this weekend too. Let me know what you guys think. :)

I think Beck/Arnley is what I ended up with, Havent had an issue.

alright sorry to bring this thread back up.. but i finally had a little time to look around the engine...and after all i just need some fluid. But i got a question.. first of all is DOT 3 or DOT4 what i should use.. thats what they recomend in the book? second of all, the way my clutch basssicaly gave out all of a sudden, do you think there is more than just fluid to it? Hopefully this weeknd i'll have time to look at the slave.. but is that all it would be?

Where can I find the 3/16" flexible hose to use when bleeding? What a typical Kragen/AutoZone have it?

They should have it, I just used a Piece of vaccum line leftover from my intake, Didnt exactly fit but it worked...

When you change the master, do you end up messing with the "play" of the clutch pedal? Meaning you have to readjust when the clutch pedal starts feeling pressure again after you're done?

You might have to a little bit, It helps if you pay attention when you disconnect your clutch pedal in the car...When your turning off the nut try to count how many time you turned it to get it off or mark where it was, this way when you reconnect it you can semi get it where it was...

I'm having trouble accessing the 12mm bolt that's on the bottom of the slave cylinder. The crowfoot wrenches won't reach...ugh....suggestions? Would I be able to access it from the bottom of the car? :(

Hmm....I kinda had the same issue, I ended up pulling out all of the hardlines by there because one was stripped out and I had to take it out of my car to get it off...There might be an easier way but I dont know

Ugh, that's gonna super suck if I can't find any other way. :banghead:

Well, I ended up having to take off the other hard lines that were connected to the slave to reach the bottom bolt (in case anyone needs to know for the future).

Okay, here's a question....my battery tray is super dirty. I have a whole bunch of white powedery stuff everywhere...how do I clean it up? Broom? Vacuum cleaner?

I am gonna start on the master removal now...please stay tuned for more questions. Thanks guys. :)

How do we hand thread the hard line back in when we're reinstalling? Even if I don't hand thread it i don't see how I'll be able to get it back down there as there's so little room. Do I have to remove the brake booster?

Okay, here's the deal....how do I know if my master cylinder is bad too? Because if I know that it's okay for now, I'll just leave it alone because it seems like a PAIN (!!!!) to remove it. Stealthee said to check if there was fluid inside the clutch pedal and I didn't see a lot but I saw some drops. Also, next to the master there seemed to have been some fluid spills. The thing is though is that when my cluctch wouldn't work on Monday, I topped off the fluid so I don't know if the fluid that spilled out could have been from too much fluid or if it actually is leaking. Please help guys...I'm so tired too... :(

UPDATE:
Okay, I tried to punk out and not do the master anymore but it didn't work. I'm not completely done but here's what I got so far.

1-Slave is completely off and ready to for the new one. I'm just waiting for the part to arrive now.

2-Master is almost fully off except that I still haven't gotten the bracket attached to the clutch pedal off yet because I couldn't figure out how to pull out the pin. This in part probably has something to do with the fact that I did not loosen the adjustment nut yet....so my question is is it necessary that we loosen the nut? I marked it but just haven't done it yet because I don't want to mess up it's current setting. Also, how do we remove the pin? I was trying to just pull it but it wasn't coming off (again, maybe because I didn't loosen the adjustment nut?).

Well, all-in-all, it's been a productive day in that I've learned a lot. However, what is still hard for me to fully grasp is patience....but I guess that's life right? Anyways, any help with the questions posted here as well as the ones posted in the messages would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

I used a flat head screwdriver to remove the pin, Just pushed up on it but watch where it lands...And yes you do have to remove that nut that holds the clutch pedal to that bar, thats actually part of the master cylinder...

UPDATE:
Both my master as well as my slave came in today and they are both installed. However, I'm kinda "iffy" about if my assumptions were correct about the slave leaking because I couldn't find a hole in the rubber part. However, I swear that when I poked at it when it was still installed, it fluid leaked out.

But yeah, I gotta bleed it tomorrow after work and hopefully it'll be okay then. One final question, how do you reach the painted portion of the engine bay next to the master cylinder? Because some fluid spilled out before around that area but I can't reach it to clean it up. Is it already too late since it's been there for over a week now? How long will it be before it starts pealing?