Anyone Running a 10" Kicker L7 Sub in a Spyder?

Sup Guys,

I own a 99 GS Spyder and just purchased a 10" square Kicker L7 subwoofer. I figured it would be the best bang for the buck and also wouldnt take up much of my already limited trunk space. My question is, is anyone running one of these subs in their spyder? If so how's it sound and what size box is it in?

Thanks

i had a 10inch jl audio in mine. I didn't have it in a box really. I built it into the space in under the car top.

I ran it like this and sounded fine. My friend runs a 10" kicker sub in his spyder using the spare wheel well as the box, sounded just as good.

Just watch how you are powering it. I was using a 550watt jl audio amp and when it hit my lights dimmed alot, so much it would occassionally knock out my el gauges for a bit. It wasn't loud either the sub just drew alot of power. With highbeams on it was so much worse too.

If you have any questions about where to run wires or anything I basically had my entire enterior disassembled so i can tell you where it's really easy to run them.

i just read this EXACT same post on team-2g.com. i thought i was in the same place but different location, kinda weirded me out for a minute.

nova...that's to the point when you look into bigger alternators.

i had a 10inch jl audio in mine. I didn't have it in a box really. I built it into the space in under the car top.

I ran it like this and sounded fine. My friend runs a 10" kicker sub in his spyder using the spare wheel well as the box, sounded just as good.

Just watch how you are powering it. I was using a 550watt jl audio amp and when it hit my lights dimmed alot, so much it would occassionally knock out my el gauges for a bit. It wasn't loud either the sub just drew alot of power. With highbeams on it was so much worse too.

If you have any questions about where to run wires or anything I basically had my entire enterior disassembled so i can tell you where it's really easy to run them.


Kool,

How did you build it into the space? Also, where did you boy place his spare?


JThompson, I get on different forums to get as much feedback as I can. I guess we think alike cuz you were on the forum too. lol.

i know, it's a good site. it just kinda weirded me out for a second cause i was like "wait, that's exactly what the other site said like 10 seconds ago"

i had a 10inch jl audio in mine. I didn't have it in a box really. I built it into the space in under the car top.

I ran it like this and sounded fine. My friend runs a 10" kicker sub in his spyder using the spare wheel well as the box, sounded just as good.

Just watch how you are powering it. I was using a 550watt jl audio amp and when it hit my lights dimmed alot, so much it would occassionally knock out my el gauges for a bit. It wasn't loud either the sub just drew alot of power. With highbeams on it was so much worse too.

If you have any questions about where to run wires or anything I basically had my entire enterior disassembled so i can tell you where it's really easy to run them.

Your lights dimmed that bad with only 550 watts? Whats wrong with your car? With my 800 watt Orion amp and 2 gauge wire on the stock battery my lights only dimmed a little bit. I upgraded to a Optima Yellow Top which is much better but my lights still dim but only very little. You should upgrade to an Optima also. But to get rid of the dimming lights you should hook up a power capacitor to your amp.

Sup Guys,

I own a 99 GS Spyder and just purchased a 10" square Kicker L7 subwoofer. I figured it would be the best bang for the buck and also wouldnt take up much of my already limited trunk space. My question is, is anyone running one of these subs in their spyder? If so how's it sound and what size box is it in?

Thanks

I have heard a 12" L7 before but not in a spyder. It sounded pretty good in the particular car. I don't know of anyone with one in their spyder. I have a 12" Orion in mine and it sounds pretty good. I don't remeber the demensions of the box but it pretty much takes up almost the whole trunk. But when you do put that sub in your spyder.......be prepared to spend some money on Dynamat or equivelent dampening, unless you just want it to sound ghetto. :grinno:

I have alot of other things running off the power, I had a laptop for logging, big head unit, undercar lighting, and fogs on. It did this at the slightest sign of corrosion on the battery connection. If I cleaned it off once a week I was fine. Otherwise I would have that problem. I even switched to larger grounds.

How I built it in under the top:
Take out the back seat, Take out the floor and back panel in the trunk. You will see an area closed off by a cross bar. In under where the top sits.

Make sure the top is down when you do this! Next get two rectangular pieces of wood. Measure the width of that area and slide them in through the cockpit part of the car (it doesn't have x bracing), you will have to have removed some electronics hanging there. The idea is to make a triangle type support. Once your sure they fit through on top of each other connect them with piano hinge (check out a local hardware store, it's a flat long hindge, really strong), then in the top board cut out your space to mount the speaker.

If you look at the bottom of that area there are extra places to land screws in mounts into the body of the car. You want to go into these. With your screws. So place your hindged boards in (closed up when you do this) Then from the trunk side screw it down into those landing area's. I also put some think weather stripping under this so it wouldn't vibrate. Now the next part is all done from the trunk. Slide the speaker in that area using the top part of the X (you can't remove this bracing that I saw), Once it's in lift up the hindged part of the board and screw it in from the cockpit area (you may have to put the top up here.. but put it down after!), Now with the sub in it's kinda supported in a triangular fashion. Make two triangular shaped pieces that are supports and put them in from the back side to hold the board with speaker away from the board with the base on. I landed these with flush mounted screws on the side to the bottom of the board, and from the front of it (inside the car) I put a few more in. I then used construction cement (a calk) around these to make sure they wouldn't vibrate. Your sub is now mounted.

There is a boot below the fuel pump in the engine bay you can pass the power wire through (it's a bit tough but doable) into the passenger side front, then run it up the channel thats below the door sill, I took it from there behind my passenger rear speaker panel and landed it to the amp which I mounted to the trunk wall (So I had to cut a hole for wires). I ran a 12v lead from my lighter to use as the on sensing, and then used a converter that gives you line level outs from just your back speakers, I mounted that to my sub support board.

I ran the wires through the hole in the back wall to my amp then reassembled everything. Took me about 5 hours to do.

Complaints this method: When the top is up The place it normally sits in the back would rest against my sub. This produced a nasty vibrating noise in the car. So I just put a towel in that area and it held it away from the sub then since it weighted it down.


MY friends in the spare tire area. He didn't leave his spare in the car, he had AAA and if he got a flat would have them take care of it or call someone at his house to bring it to him, I guess you could mount it to the back wall of your trunk though....

He essentially removed the tire from the well, left the washer bottle in there, Cut a hole in the trunk floor area, dropped the sub in, screwed it down, and then the floor board into the trunk.

Downsides: You can't really set anything in your trunk then. I guess if you built something so that nothing would fall in on the sub you would be okay. He had a sub and an amp and a cd changer back there so he didn't use his trunk.

In betweens: It sounded about just as good as my way, and I saved the trunk, mine took a bit more time, and cost me about 40 dollars for wood, screws, calk, and piano hinge.

I have alot of other things running off the power, I had a laptop for logging, big head unit, undercar lighting, and fogs on. It did this at the slightest sign of corrosion on the battery connection. If I cleaned it off once a week I was fine. Otherwise I would have that problem. I even switched to larger grounds.

How I built it in under the top:
Take out the back seat, Take out the floor and back panel in the trunk. You will see an area closed off by a cross bar. In under where the top sits.

Make sure the top is down when you do this! Next get two rectangular pieces of wood. Measure the width of that area and slide them in through the cockpit part of the car (it doesn't have x bracing), you will have to have removed some electronics hanging there. The idea is to make a triangle type support. Once your sure they fit through on top of each other connect them with piano hinge (check out a local hardware store, it's a flat long hindge, really strong), then in the top board cut out your space to mount the speaker.

If you look at the bottom of that area there are extra places to land screws in mounts into the body of the car. You want to go into these. With your screws. So place your hindged boards in (closed up when you do this) Then from the trunk side screw it down into those landing area's. I also put some think weather stripping under this so it wouldn't vibrate. Now the next part is all done from the trunk. Slide the speaker in that area using the top part of the X (you can't remove this bracing that I saw), Once it's in lift up the hindged part of the board and screw it in from the cockpit area (you may have to put the top up here.. but put it down after!), Now with the sub in it's kinda supported in a triangular fashion. Make two triangular shaped pieces that are supports and put them in from the back side to hold the board with speaker away from the board with the base on. I landed these with flush mounted screws on the side to the bottom of the board, and from the front of it (inside the car) I put a few more in. I then used construction cement (a calk) around these to make sure they wouldn't vibrate. Your sub is now mounted.

There is a boot below the fuel pump in the engine bay you can pass the power wire through (it's a bit tough but doable) into the passenger side front, then run it up the channel thats below the door sill, I took it from there behind my passenger rear speaker panel and landed it to the amp which I mounted to the trunk wall (So I had to cut a hole for wires). I ran a 12v lead from my lighter to use as the on sensing, and then used a converter that gives you line level outs from just your back speakers, I mounted that to my sub support board.

I ran the wires through the hole in the back wall to my amp then reassembled everything. Took me about 5 hours to do.

Complaints this method: When the top is up The place it normally sits in the back would rest against my sub. This produced a nasty vibrating noise in the car. So I just put a towel in that area and it held it away from the sub then since it weighted it down.


MY friends in the spare tire area. He didn't leave his spare in the car, he had AAA and if he got a flat would have them take care of it or call someone at his house to bring it to him, I guess you could mount it to the back wall of your trunk though....

He essentially removed the tire from the well, left the washer bottle in there, Cut a hole in the trunk floor area, dropped the sub in, screwed it down, and then the floor board into the trunk.

Downsides: You can't really set anything in your trunk then. I guess if you built something so that nothing would fall in on the sub you would be okay. He had a sub and an amp and a cd changer back there so he didn't use his trunk.

In betweens: It sounded about just as good as my way, and I saved the trunk, mine took a bit more time, and cost me about 40 dollars for wood, screws, calk, and piano hinge.


Nova, you got a pic of your set up? I'm curious to see what it looks like.
How's the sound?

I have alot of other things running off the power, I had a laptop for logging, big head unit, undercar lighting, and fogs on. It did this at the slightest sign of corrosion on the battery connection. If I cleaned it off once a week I was fine. Otherwise I would have that problem. I even switched to larger grounds.

To prevent corrosion you can do like I did and switch the conecting leads (or whatever u call them) to gold ones like I did. I use Phoenix gold connectors...works great.

I might have some peering into the space behind I'll have to check. I can't tak e any because my car got totaled. But I can most def get one of my friends when I talk to him next.