Help! Need tips replacing '93 Taurus Radiator.

Hi all...

My elderly mother has a '93 Taurus (3.0L V-6) with only 56,000 miles on it. She drives it only 3 or 4 times a week. It recently began leaving a coolant puddle that gets bigger each week. I needed a mirror and flashlight to trace the leak to a 2" hairline crack in the upper part of the plastic radiator tank on the driver's side.

Bars Leaks stop-leak has stopped the leak, but I'm sure not for long, since repeated expansion and contraction of the tank's normal work cycle is bound to lengthen the crack.

I can get a new radiator online with a lifetime warranty for $144 including shipping. I think I have decent mechanical skills and a fairly good selection of tools. Is replacing this radiator a job a backyard mechanic can do in a couple hours, or can I easily get in over my head? I'm mostly concerned with the stuff that's in the way to getting at the radiator to remove and replace it, more than the radiator itself...which is probably just a 4 bolts & 2 hoses job. Any thoughts or tips from anyone out there who's done it?

Also, would I be really saving that much doing it myself? If I could get it done for, say, $125 to $150 labor I'd go that route, rather than get down and dirty myself. Anybody out there know what an honest mechanic should charge for the job, labor wise? Thanks!

Innerlight

where do you live? if you are around the greater detroit area i would suggest master automatic. he was the master mechanic at ford till he retired and now he runs his own shop. Great guy and does things right and even shows you exactally what he is going to do how he is going to do it and explains everything. PM me if you want his number!

I know a good place in Las Vegas, NV.

You should be able to get a radiator online for about 100 dollars shipped, here's instructions below,,, you may need to get a disconnect tool for your transmission lines, not sure if it's a definite, look and see. I did a 93 3.8 and 94 3.0, took a while, got em both done.. I would think around 300 dollars plus or minus for a rad shop to do it, or take a home equity line-of-credit and have the dealer do it,, j\k

Removal

1. Drain cooling system by removing radiator pressure cap and opening draincock located at lower rear corner of radiator inlet tank. Three revolutions are required to open draincock to full open position.

2. Remove rubber overflow tube from coolant recovery reservoir and detach it from radiator.

On Taurus SHO, disconnect tube from radiator and remove recovery reservoir. Refer to illustration.
3. Disconnect battery ground cable.

4. Remove two shroud upper retaining screws and lift shroud out of lower retaining clip.

5. Disconnect the electric cooling fan motor wires and remove fan and shroud assembly.

6. Loosen upper and lower hose clamps at radiator and remove hoses from radiator connectors.

7. Disconnect two automatic transmission oil cooling lines from radiator fittings.

8. On 3.0L engine remove two radiator upper retaining screws.

9. On 3.8L, 3.0L SHO, 3.2L SHO engines remove two hex nuts from RH radiator support bracket. Remove bracket.

10. On 3.8L, 3.0L SHO, 3.2L SHO engines remove two screws from LH radiator support bracket. Remove bracket.

11. Tilt radiator back (rearward) approximately 25mm (1 inch) and lift directly upward, clear of radiator support.

12. If either hose is to be replaced, loosen clamp at engine end and slip hose off connections with a twisting motion.
13. Remove radiator lower support rubber pads, if pad replacement is necessary.

Installation

1. Position radiator lower support rubber pads to lower support, if necessary.

2. If either hose has been replaced, position hose on engine with index arrow in-line with mark on fitting at engine. Position the clamps between the alignment marks on both ends of the hose and slide hose on connections.

CAUTION:
Ensure the clamps are beyond the bead and placed in the center of the clamping surface of the connection.

Any used hose clamps must be replaced with a new clamp to ensure proper sealing at the connection.

Tighten screw clamps to 2.2-3.4 N-m (20-30 lb-in).

3. Position radiator into engine compartment and to radiator support. Insert the moulded pins at bottom of each tank through slotted holes in lower support rubber pads.

4. Inspect radiator nylon tank upper mounting bushings for damage. Replace if damaged.

5. On 3.8L, 3.0L SHO, and 3.2L SHO engines inspect LH and RH radiator support brackets. Replace if damaged.



6. On 3.0L engine only, ensure plastic pads on bottom of radiator tanks are resting on rubber pads. Install two upper retaining bolts to attach radiator to radiator support. Tighten to 5-7 N-m (45-61 lb-in).

7. On 3.8L, 3.0L SHO, and 3.2L SHO engines position LH and RH support bracket over radiator and radiator support. Align holes in bracket with corresponding holes in radiator support and secure with two screws. Tighten screws to 12-24 N-m (9-17 lb-ft).










Installation

1. Position radiator lower support rubber pads to lower support, if necessary.

2. If either hose has been replaced, position hose on engine with index arrow in-line with mark on fitting at engine. Position the clamps between the alignment marks on both ends of the hose and slide hose on connections.

CAUTION:
Ensure the clamps are beyond the bead and placed in the center of the clamping surface of the connection.

Any used hose clamps must be replaced with a new clamp to ensure proper sealing at the connection.

Tighten screw clamps to 2.2-3.4 N-m (20-30 lb-in).

3. Position radiator into engine compartment and to radiator support. Insert the moulded pins at bottom of each tank through slotted holes in lower support rubber pads.

4. Inspect radiator nylon tank upper mounting bushings for damage. Replace if damaged.

5. On 3.8L, 3.0L SHO, and 3.2L SHO engines inspect LH and RH radiator support brackets. Replace if damaged.



6. On 3.0L engine only, ensure plastic pads on bottom of radiator tanks are resting on rubber pads. Install two upper retaining bolts to attach radiator to radiator support. Tighten to 5-7 N-m (45-61 lb-in).

7. On 3.8L, 3.0L SHO, and 3.2L SHO engines position LH and RH support bracket over radiator and radiator support. Align holes in bracket with corresponding holes in radiator support and secure with two screws. Tighten screws to 12-24 N-m (9-17 lb-ft).

8. Install radiator upper and lower hoses to radiator. Position hose on radiator connector so that index arrow on hose is in line with mark on connector. Position the clamps between the alignment marks on both ends of the hose and slide hose on connections.

CAUTION:
Ensure the clamps are beyond the bead and placed in the center of the clamping surface of the connection.

Any used hose clamps must be replaced with a new clamp to ensure proper sealing at the connection.

Tighten screw clamps to 2.2-3.4 N-m (20-30 lb-in).

On vehicles with automatic transaxles, connect oil cooler lines using Pipe Sealant with Teflon®D8AZ-19554-A (ESG-M4G194-A) or equivalent oil resistant sealer.

9. Install fan and shroud assembly by connecting motor wiring and positioning on lower retainer clips. Attach top of shroud to radiator with two screw and washer assemblies, and nut. Tighten to 4 N-m (36 lb-in).

10. Attach rubber overflow tube to radiator filler neck overflow nipple and coolant recovery reservoir.

On Taurus SHO, install coolant recovery reservoir and connect overflow hose.

11. Install new 50/50 mixture of water and antifreeze. Operate engine for 15 minutes. Check coolant level and bring it to within 38mm (1-1/2 inch) of radiator filler neck.

12. Connect battery ground cable.

Dear Taurus King...

What A Great Post!!! Helped A Lot!!! Car Now Runs Smooth...no Leaks!!

Many Thanks,

Innerlight

How do the disconnect tools work tranny cooler lines to radiator? Push/pull?
THANKS and great post.

My 94 doesn't require the special tool to remove the lines attached to the radiator, they are bolt-on. To remove the lines directly from the trans, yes the tool is required.. one tip to help with the line removal from the rad.. the lower line, at least on the 94, is an extremely tight fit, the best way, to remove and re-install, is to remove the little clip that holds both lines together, if it's still on yours, then loosen the radiator, lift it up, and remove the lower line. Should be free play in the line to allow you to do this. It's a mother to try and remove, or tighten the lower line when the rad is installed in the end position. Not a lot of room to get a wrench in there from the bottom. This way it can be done from the top.. At least on the 94, assuming your 93 is similiar. If you do need the tools, buy a complete kit, I bought mine on Ebay for not much more then the cost of the single tool alone, something like 11 or 12 pieces in the kit, different uses. Also, I didn't use any type of thread sealer, no leaks.

Thanks, that is what we did, removed them from the radiator itself and then could get at them easily. This 98 SE had to have front clip pulled to get at anything! Thanks again.