Difference between 1500 and 2500

Can anyone explain the primary differences between 1500 and 2500 trucks. Is it jsut drive train or what? I ask cause I'de like to increase the towing/hauling capacity of my 1500 but I've invested to much time/money in it to jsut trade in for a 2500 HD. Is it feasable to go to a salvage yard nd pick apart a junked 2500? Thanks in advance.

JCarr

Well there is various components throughout the drivetrain that are a little beefier but the main things are the rearend and suspension and you could go down and pull these out of a 2500 fairly easily. The rest depends upon what you currently have in your rig as far as engine, tranny and most important brakes. (Even if your doggin it to pull something you but be damn sure you can stop it once its rollin.) Good luck buddy hope this gets ya started in the right direction!

JCarr,

2500s have options for lower gearing (numerically higher). For example, some of the 1500s may have had options for 3.42s and 3.73s, where the 2500 had options for 3.73s and 4.10s.

2500s have more powerful brakes.

2500s have another one or two leaf springs depending on the setup.

2500s have a stronger rear axle 14 bolt vs. a 10 or 12 bolt.

2500s have a stronger transmission, 4L80E vs. 4L60.

2500s have a stronger t-case (for 4 wheel drives).

2500s have the 8 lug wheels and load range E tires.

Those are the most obvious differences, I'm sure there are several more.

One more thing to consider......in the 1988-1998 years, the 2500s came in two versions (a light duty and a heavy duty). The heavy duty 2500s were much more common, they have the 8600 lb GVWR, were the 2500 light duties had a 7600lb or 7800lb GVWR (and a lower tow rating). The 2500 light duties were a good cross between the 1500s and the 2500s that one normally sees.

What loads/weights are you expecting to haul/tow that would warrant the 2500 setup?

How often are you / will you be hauling & towing these loads?

For the salvage yard visit, getting 2500 springs and the 14 bolt rear axle would be pretty simple. If you have 4x4, just make sure the gearing in the new rear axle matches the gearing in your front diff.

It's possible that the axle swap, with heaver rear brake rotors would require some minor adjustment once installed on the 1500. Does anyone else have more knowledge on this?

Im just trying to beef up me truck so that when I do go and haul a load of stone or mulch or what not (which I do fairly often for landsaping) my truck doesnt turn into a low rider.
How much work is entailed in that rear axle swap? as far as matching the gearing and what not, can you ellaborate? Thanks agian everyone.

JCarr

2500HD4X4 mentioned about brakes. I think these are a really big thing. You really shouldn't increase the weight capacity unless you are able to increase the braking capacity.

Im just trying to beef up me truck so that when I do go and haul a load of stone or mulch or what not (which I do fairly often for landsaping) my truck doesnt turn into a low rider.
How much work is entailed in that rear axle swap? as far as matching the gearing and what not, can you ellaborate? Thanks agian everyone.

JCarr

I have a 96 K1500 swb. I bought a 95 light duty 3/4 ton that has a lot of cab damage with plans of swapping the 14 bolt axle into the K1500. When I install it I plan on keeping the 1/2 ton springs and adding a gooseneck hitch and air bags to increase the carrying capacity. For normal driving I can just let the air out for a smoother ride. I am trying to get away from having to insure and register my old 79 3\4 ton truck just for pulling a trailer 3-4 times a year.

The airbags may be something you would want to consider.

The gearing is not that important if you have 2wd, you can have your computer recalibrated. For 4wd your replacement rear axle ratio needs to match your current front axle ratio or it will bind when you put it in 4wd.

James

The main thing is the rear end,Full floating axle (which simply means the axle on 3/4 & 1 tons all weight stress is on the axle tubes not the axles like all 1/2 tons). If you swap a complete unit you already have the big 13" drums included.You can pull an axle out of a 3/4 ton without even taking the wheel off, hub bearings are in tube, you can even tow, push/roll it with no axles.

The main thing is the rear end,Full floating axle (which simply means the axle on 3/4 & 1 tons all weight stress is on the axle tubes not the axles like all 1/2 tons). If you swap a complete unit you already have the big 13" drums included.You can pull an axle out of a 3/4 ton without even taking the wheel off, hub bearings are in tube, you can even tow, push/roll it with no axles.
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Hi,
Somewhere recently I saw that the 2500HD had full floating rear axles, but the regular 2500 did not.
Bob B

Full floaters for the 3/4 ton depends on the year. The light duty 2500 does not have full floaters. I think that some of the earlier 2500HDs had full floaters, but unfortunately my 1998 2500HD does not (I do not know when what years do and don't have them).

with regards for the 2500 light duty, they werent all that bad either... my dad had a 90 with the 700r4 and the 350 that only made 210 horses, but was enough nonetheless. he used to pull our family's 8000 pound trailer (big-ass fifth wheel) for camping with that truck and it could go up hills on the interstate without unlocking the torque converter. it was nothing compared to his 2002 silverado with the 6 liter, but it was still pretty good in the towing abilities area lol

Absolutely nothing wrong with the 2500 light duty. My '93 was a light duty, and of the 422,000 miles I put on it, the last 250,000 were used like it was a 2500HD or 3500. It had the 5.7L, 5 spd manual, 3.42 rear end. I prefer the 3.73 gearing that I have now, and the HD, but to be honest, either will do a great job!

lol yeah i loved the way it pulled at low rpm's. nothing like a chevy v-8 torque curve.

Full floaters for the 3/4 ton depends on the year. The light duty 2500 does not have full floaters. I think that some of the earlier 2500HDs had full floaters, but unfortunately my 1998 2500HD does not (I do not know when what years do and don't have them).

As far as I know, only the 8600 lb. GVWR trucks had full floating axles. Mine is 8600, and I have full floaters. One thing to keep in mind is full floaters are harder and more expensive to do brake jobs on.
Also, 2500HD in these years had stronger front ends, (cast A-arms)

I've also heard that the 2500 frame uses thicker gauge steel.
I have air bags and 6 ply tires and a hydraulic dump installed under the factory bed and am a little worried about the frame bowing.
We've all seen it when the cab to bed gaps are closing in, not good.:frown: