CRX Build Guide

Hey Guys, this is my first post here so hello to everyone. Right now I drive a '90 240 with minor bolt ons. I've had it for a few years now, I've loved it and had a lot of fun in it but I'm considering getting something new. Two of my old buddies from before I moved here to Vancouver used to drive crx's and I remember those always being a ton of fun. I always found the crx was such a fun little car, and I think it would be more cost effective to do up one of those instead of a my 240.

I was wondering if anyone knew of any good and explanatory build guides for a crx? I'm also wanting to get some opinions on what engine to go with, would it be better to go b16 with more mods done on it or pitch out more for a b18 but not be able to do as much to the engine? I 'm not a mechanical master yet, but I want to learn and not afraid to work.

Welcome man... The CRX is a fun a little car... And its the lightest Honda (too my knowledge), due to its 'small package', the fact its been around for some time now, its got literally TONs of different things you can do to them... From swapping in another D series with VTEC, a D series with DOHC, or the mighty K series from an RSX... If its a Honda engine worth swapping, I can guarantee its been done to the CRX before... So theres plenty of information out there...

Basically my best advice is plan what you want to do with the build, what are you building it for? Show, strip, street, or track? And go from there... Because depending on that is basically determines where to start... My own personal favorite engine for the CRX is the B18C1 (Integra GSR), the reason is, its reasonably priced (for the power it provides), not too heavy for the chasis, has a decent amount of power, tons of aftermarket support, is a newer engine so less wear and tear, plus you can pretty much do whatever kind of competition with it, from drag (its got a decent amount of torque compared to the B16 so its better off the line than a B16), autox, and would be nice to have just driving around town from day to day... Then theres suspension mods, which also depends on what kind of driving you will do with the car...

As for any sites, basically just reading forums is the best way to learn... This one, www.honda-tech.com, www.honda-acura.net, www.ef-honda.com, www.efsource.net, www.crxpower.com, and others...

The car will be for street, it's going to be a daily driver. I live in Vancouver so we it does have to pass air care or be easy to mod to pass it. So the b16A is a VTEC engine as I understand it? I'm trying to learn as much as I can, but I'm in no way an expert on it. One thing I'm wondering about VTEC is can you use it with a turbo, or does it need to be one or the other? From the site I'm checking the b18c seems to be just over 3000$

(http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30009),

while as the b16 is $1500

(http://hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30002)


so I'm just wondering if it's worth that price difference. If I spend $1500 more for the engine, then thats $1500 less I have to put into other parts. Thanks

You would probably be better off putting more money into the engine as a base and have a nice engine, that will perform well. To really stretch the difference between the b16 and b18 is like comparing a 4 cylinder to a v8, people can make a 4 cylinder run as fast, and it would cost alot, but you could also just get the v8, you see my logic? And no, I'm not saying a v8 will fit into a crx lol. Not all b18's are vtec though.

The car will be for street, it's going to be a daily driver. I live in Vancouver so we it does have to pass air care or be easy to mod to pass it. So the b16A is a VTEC engine as I understand it? I'm trying to learn as much as I can, but I'm in no way an expert on it. One thing I'm wondering about VTEC is can you use it with a turbo, or does it need to be one or the other? From the site I'm checking the b18c seems to be just over 3000$

(http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30009),

while as the b16 is $1500

(http://hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30002)


so I'm just wondering if it's worth that price difference. If I spend $1500 more for the engine, then thats $1500 less I have to put into other parts. Thanks


Yes the B16A is VTEC... B18A/B are non-VTEC, and the B18C is VTEC... You can use them with a turbo... All VTEC really is, is a mechanism built into the head in which you have a high performance, and an economy cam in one (or 2 if u have a DOHC)... At a certain engine RPM (5400 on most SOHC dunno about DOHCs) if all the proper variables are met (vehicles speed must be 20 MPH, engine must be warm, proper oil pressure, ect) VTEC will engage giving you more power by changing the duration of the intake/exhaust valves opening and closing...

For a better explaination see here:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm

As for price, think of it this way, you may not have enough now to buy the engine, swap it in, and then do work on it... But only enough to buy it and then swap it in, well you can run it stock until u have enough to do mods too it, and itll still reasonably fast... And then down the road you can do work on it, turbo it, whatever... Honestly, dont get me wrong, the B16 is a great engine, better than what I have, but its far too overrated... I know of plenty of ppl whove done it, and come out dissapointed in the end... When I upgrade my engine, a B18 will def be the next choice... Either b18a/b or maybe even c... The B18A/B tho its non-VTEC is still a very nice engine to swap into the car, and is actually cheaper than a B16 swap... You can then boost it, or even go LS/VTEC (using the B18A/B block and slap a B16 head on it later to make it a VTEC engine) a very common combination...

I have a b16 and I love my little screamer! But of course a b18c5 would result in that 1.6 sitting on the floor in about 20 mins lol. I have ALOT of bolt ons which do help it out alot, I dunno if I'd be as happy with the b16 if it were stock.

So from what I'm gathering, I think the b18C sounds like the one to go with for me. I've driven one of my friends VTEC'd civics before, don't know exactly what engine but it was dohc. It was plenty of fun, and it still could have had a lot more done to it. I think I'd rather go with the b18C with VTEC then a b18A and have to spend a ton to turbo it. VTEC would be cheaper, have lots of hp still and be more economic/reliable.

Update:

I can't find it anywhere on the site, but are the prices I was quoting in US or Canadian dollars? I'm guessing thats $3000 Canadian, right?

For a b18c probably not.

So from what I'm gathering, I think the b18C sounds like the one to go with for me. I've driven one of my friends VTEC'd civics before, don't know exactly what engine but it was dohc. It was plenty of fun, and it still could have had a lot more done to it. I think I'd rather go with the b18C with VTEC then a b18A and have to spend a ton to turbo it. VTEC would be cheaper, have lots of hp still and be more economic/reliable.

Update:

I can't find it anywhere on the site, but are the prices I was quoting in US or Canadian dollars? I'm guessing thats $3000 Canadian, right?


Well with that setup, since it comes with a hydro tranny, Id buy the long block from hmotors (its like $1800 I think, and yes USD) , and get an LSD cable B16A tranny... This way you do not have to convert to hydro...

The long block:
http://www.hmotorsonline.com/shop/sc2000search.cgi?what=page&item=30024

Youd still need all the other parts tho, like axles from a 91-93 Integra, shift linkage, mounts, ECU, ect... Thats why its so cheap as long block, its missing the ECU, axles and what not... But if u call them im sure they will work with you... Basically tell them u want the GSR change over, but you want to stay cable, can you get a cable LSD tranny from a B16A with the axles... And see how much it is... If you dont do that, the kit to change over to hydro is $475 from them for the HASport convertion kit... I think you may need a different shift linkage anyways for the EF...


Ohhh I just found this great write up on the subject, has B16 and B18, and theyre from a guy whose VERy knowledgeable in swaps... Infact my OBD1 conversion harness was made by him...:

http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/

So if I went with the B18C long block I'd have to get the mounts, shift linkage, etc... If I need to get a new ecu anyways, do you know of any good performance chips that are really reliable? I figure if I'd have to get an ecu anyways, I might as well buy a performance one rather then just buy one and get a performance one later. It would have to be super reliable, because this car would be a daily driver. Thanks everyone for helping me plan/price this all out in advance by the way.

As far as buying the actual crx itself goes, should I buy one thats in decent enough condition or should I just look for a shell since it would be having a new engine, tranny and suspension in it anyways. Never done up a car completely before so I don't know if spending more to start with a decent one would be a waste because most of the parts would be replaced anyways.

Try to find an SI, because you need the mpfi already there or youll have to convert from dpfi, and in good shape. Just about any shell is going to be a piece of...not always but most cases. Try to find one with no rust, or hidden/covered up rust, that stuff gets bad real quick. If possible get an unscrewed up one, meaning no aftermarket crap that is most likely wired/installed wrong...there are plenty of stock crx's to be had. Besides, you can sell the engine and trans to recoup some of the cost of the swap. A shell can have things missing, like a/c (if you want it) etc....Oh, and stay away from those "performance" chips, they really don't give you more than like 5 or 10 h.p. and most of the time it will remove your rev limiter, which is not cool. You will be driving a b18c which has its peak power at about 8k roms, you want a rev limiter if youve never run that high before, 8k is kinda scary. That, and on stock internals your engine shoudnt go above the redline.

any b series will suit the crx fine. find what suits your budget and needs, and start from there.

as far as the b16 vs b18c goes, ive worked on plenty b16s and was never disappointed.

Alright so no shell then, I'll look for an si with a good body and parts to sell off. I remember my friends crx, I think it was 89, had these cracks on the sides at the front just along the top of the car beside the hood. He said crx's are notorious for those parts cracking, and I know on 240's like mine theres a common rust spot where the spoiler connects to the trunk. Are there any body problems or rust spots the crx is known for that I should look to find?

Stock ecu it is then, the highest rev I've ever driven at was just over 7k on a friends civic and ya that can be less than comfortable at first. What is mpfi and dpfi? Thats something I'm not familiar with, this is a lot of learning for me. I'm trying to plan/price everything out before I get started but still got lots to learn.

A common rust spot to watch out for primarily on Si models is in the sunroof panel. But with all CRX models watch out for rust on the rear quarter panels.

DPFI = Dual-Point Fuel Injection (ie. 2 fuel injectors)
MPFI = Multi-Point Fuel Injection (ie. 4 fuel injectors)

Read the stickies at the top.

Yeah they rust right at the rear fenders above the wheel, mine doesnt have any but I did get a little on the side of the roof in the groove that connects the roof to the sides, and at the bottom of the windshield behind the fender, like at the door hinges where all of the water runs behind there, It was just a little surface rust so I hit it quick and got it before anything big was needed.