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Need to do a tune-up on 95 3.8L Transport...suggestions?


5spd GT
02-03-2006, 10:05 AM
I need to do a tune-up on a 95 Transport. It has the 3.8 (3800 series) engine in it. What spark plugs would you recommend and at what gap (the latter is what I do not know).

What fuel filter? Is it hard to change?

It has 162,000 miles on it and is missing it's step and missing anyways.

I just want something to help it out a bit...further ideas welcome:)

cdru
02-03-2006, 10:20 AM
Most people recommend staying with AC Delco plugs from the dealer. A lot of people have complained about issues when you use Bosch aftermarket plugs.

The gap should be on the emissions sticker under the hood. If not, check in a Haynes manual or call up the parts counter at your local parts store. They should have the information. I can't remember the last time I purchased spark plugs and they weren't already gapped correctly though.

5spd GT
02-03-2006, 11:02 PM
I was thinking to close the gap a bit because I'm sure the stock ignition is weaker than from the factory. I could just gap them at whatever I pulled them out at to be safe. I'm sure they are factory plugs...

How hard is it to change the fuel filter on these?

Thanks for the reply by the way!

Kevins1955
02-24-2006, 02:34 PM
And is there a secret to getting to the rear 3 spark plugs???
Do you need to rock the engine or do you use any special tools?

Thanks,
Kevin

Den.
07-12-2006, 08:51 PM
I don't know about the TranSport but in many cases when doing a minivan, people access the plugs from underneath and behind. Make sure you have plenty of various socket adaptoers/universals and lost of time.

Support it on ramps or jackstands and just take a look from underneath before deciding and proceed from there.

Hope this is a beginning...

knuckle ears
07-12-2006, 09:15 PM
As far as the back spark plugs go, I haven't changed mine yet. It is a 93 PTransport. I've only had it for awhile.

I saw on the net an appliance you use to bring the engine forward and then you can more easily change the plugs in the back. It looks like a wedge with a long adjusting bolt through it. Apparently you take out the front motor mount that you see above the rad that is attached to the engine. Usually called the dog bone. This appliance goes in it's place and you loosen the wedge so the engine tilits towards you. The access to the plugs are now easier to get at.
Haven't tried it so not sure. Maybe others have a thought about this.

I would say that just undoing the dog bone and gently tilting it forward with something to hold the motor from crunching the rad and all would be okay as well.

Jeffrv
07-13-2006, 04:28 PM
My 95 with 3.8 uses AC 41-600 plugs..stay with them, gapped at .060. Don't forget to use some anti-seize on the threads and a bit of dialectric grease on the boot. At 160K you might also wish to consider new quality plug wires.
Changing the back 3 is no picnic but there are worse jobs. You will have to use a mirror to see wheat you are up against but for the most part will be working blind by feel. Get a small stool to climb up on as for the most part you will be working on top of the engine. If I remember correctly, one plug had to be set in the hole thru the wheel well, then back up top to install it can't get the hands in there and hold the plug at sam e time. Wear long sleeved snug shirt as there are plenty of sharp edges where you are going. be patient, and have lots of different size adapters and such as clearance is an issue! Not sure that engine, unlike other GM's, take too kindly to removing the dog bone and tilting.
Good luck

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