2003 Malibu won't start

2003 Malibu (6 cyl, 67,000 mi) was running fine and died while pulling into a parking lot. Yes, it has gas. Cranks and gets spark to plugs. No sound from the fuel pump when key is turned on. Fuse #48 looks good, and swapped relays, no help. I read about the "theft problems". That light does not blink, as I think it would do if it was in that mode? What is the easiest way to determine if the fuel pump is shot? Don't want to spend $260 if I don't have to, not mention the pain. Maybe some easy way to see if getting voltage to the pump? Help and thanks in advance. Jim

2003 Malibu (6 cyl, 67,000 mi) was running fine and died while pulling into a parking lot. Yes, it has gas. Cranks and gets spark to plugs. No sound from the fuel pump when key is turned on. Fuse #48 looks good, and swapped relays, no help. I read about the "theft problems". That light does not blink, as I think it would do if it was in that mode? What is the easiest way to determine if the fuel pump is shot? Don't want to spend $260 if I don't have to, not mention the pain. Maybe some easy way to see if getting voltage to the pump? Help and thanks in advance. Jim
Jim,
There are two fuel lines. They are right next to each other. They go underneath the intake manifold into the fuel rail. You cant see it in the pic, but this is the area to look. Unhook the line that is closer to the front of the car(it shouldnt take more than a big cresent wrench), put a plastic bottle over the line, and turn the key. If the pump is working gas will begin to spray. You may have a bad relay, fuse, or fuel pump if the pump is not working. I recommend getting a haynes repair manual.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v514/GeoStormRS/fuelline.jpg

Thanks GeoStormRS, I am working on it today. Will let all know what happens. Jim

Thanks GeoStormRS, I am working on it today. Will let all know what happens. Jim
So, did it spray gas?

GeoStormRS, no gas. I just dropped the tank and after some work got the pump out. I'm about to hook up a test light to the leads on the electrical connector.
A. Fuel level sending unit signal.
B. Fuel pump 12-volt supply (from fule pump relay).
C. Ground
D. Fuel level sending unit ground.
I assume that A-D is good because the gauge on the dash shows correct amount of gas. Then I'll check B-C to see if I'm getting voltage to the pump. If test light doesn't work with B-C. I'll try to figure out with one, B or C is bad. If test light works then I know it's the pump. I'll get back with this round of results. Thanks, Jim

This is strange. When the key is turned on, the fuel gauge goes all the way to full (connector not even plugged into fuel pump). The tank is about 1/2 full. I don't seem to be getting any voltage at the connector at the pump, not to the "fuel pump" or the "fuel level sending unit". I tried using the battery as the ground instead of the ones at the connector, same results, no voltage. I guess the problem must be more towards the relay box?

Update, not really good news, just more info. At the breaker, I am getting voltage from the PCM to pin 86 of the breaker and pin 87 which I think goes to the pump. I might have those reversed but I don't think it matters. This voltage is for about 2 seconds which matches what I have read to prime the pump. The only thing between the relay and the pump that I see in the wiring diagram in the Haynes book is "left I/P junction box". Also, I put the light from 87 of the breaker to C and the D of the connector at the pump (see above) and the test light doesn't come on with either of those as the ground. This car was running fine and now it looks like that wiring harness connector at the pump is broken. Any suggestions from here. HELP and thanks. Jim

Have you tried to run the pump directly from a battery? If not than try it. Chop the wires, place the positive on the positive terminal and the negative on the negative terminal. Dont worry about cutting the wires. You can always splice them back with electrical connectors.

Found a connection that must have got pulled loose during tank removal. That sure caused a bunch of extra work! I now have current to pump. But pump doesn't work, either with original connector or straight to a battery. $230 for a new one. Will let you know how that goes. Thanks, Jim

GeoStormRS, thanks for the help. It eventually was the pump. Put a new one in tonight and started on second crank. Done with that car for now...knock on wood. On to my next vehicle, the 95 Suburban, that only needs an oil change. Hopefully that won't take 5 days!!!

GeoStormRS, thanks for the help. It eventually was the pump. Put a new one in tonight and started on second crank. Done with that car for now...knock on wood. On to my next vehicle, the 95 Suburban, that only needs an oil change. Hopefully that won't take 5 days!!!
Good Luck! Hope you dont find anything else wrong with it. If you do, maybe I can help you. -Will-