stall speed?
MidwayAvenue
01-30-2006, 10:18 PM
i have a 98 A4 Trans Am and was wandering if i go for a stall converter what stall speed should i go with...it is for right now my daily driver and also my take to the dragstip car so..i was looking at 3000-3500...any sugestions? thanks
also this leads into...should i go for headers and offroad Y or go for a stall converter and tires..for my next mod...what would make my ET's better
thanks again
also this leads into...should i go for headers and offroad Y or go for a stall converter and tires..for my next mod...what would make my ET's better
thanks again
97cavalier
01-30-2006, 10:30 PM
hard choice, but i would go for headers and y pipe. it is launch v.s hp.
doodad
01-31-2006, 06:23 AM
how many HP. would heards give normally guys?
Darrensls1
01-31-2006, 06:50 AM
i have a 98 A4 Trans Am and was wandering if i go for a stall converter what stall speed should i go with...it is for right now my daily driver and also my take to the dragstip car so..i was looking at 3000-3500...any sugestions? thanks
also this leads into...should i go for headers and offroad Y or go for a stall converter and tires..for my next mod...what would make my ET's better
thanks again
You'll get more ET gains from the torque converter then you would headers. I would definately go that route first. Plus torque converters make these cars soooo much more fun to drive. I recommend a 3500 stall because it at least gives you room to grow. 3500 will compliment alot of cams and N20 better then 3000 would. Plus 3500 is plenty streetable IMHO.
Top of the line for a street car is Yank SS3600. If you have the means I would get this converter due to its high effiency. If you're on a tighter budget then the TCI SSF3500 is a great choice as well. I run this converter and I'm very happy with it. I gained .5 in ET and gained 1.5 mph in my trap!
It'll take a few days to get used to a high stall converter. But after you do you'll wonder how you ever lived without one. It drops half a second from your ET, eliminates the dead spot and makes launching the car a whole new experience. Definately go converter first but make sure LT headers goes on your "to do list" as it's the second best mod I ever did (behind only converter).
Good Luck.
also this leads into...should i go for headers and offroad Y or go for a stall converter and tires..for my next mod...what would make my ET's better
thanks again
You'll get more ET gains from the torque converter then you would headers. I would definately go that route first. Plus torque converters make these cars soooo much more fun to drive. I recommend a 3500 stall because it at least gives you room to grow. 3500 will compliment alot of cams and N20 better then 3000 would. Plus 3500 is plenty streetable IMHO.
Top of the line for a street car is Yank SS3600. If you have the means I would get this converter due to its high effiency. If you're on a tighter budget then the TCI SSF3500 is a great choice as well. I run this converter and I'm very happy with it. I gained .5 in ET and gained 1.5 mph in my trap!
It'll take a few days to get used to a high stall converter. But after you do you'll wonder how you ever lived without one. It drops half a second from your ET, eliminates the dead spot and makes launching the car a whole new experience. Definately go converter first but make sure LT headers goes on your "to do list" as it's the second best mod I ever did (behind only converter).
Good Luck.
Darrensls1
01-31-2006, 06:53 AM
how many HP. would heards give normally guys?
LT headers with ORY on a bolt-on car is good for about 15-20 rwhp. Add a dyno-tune on top of that and 25-30 rwhp is not unheard of. Since 10 rwhp = .1 ET loss, the normal gains from Headers would be about 2 or 3 tenths where Converters usually drop a solid .5 (up to .8 with the right tires).
LT headers with ORY on a bolt-on car is good for about 15-20 rwhp. Add a dyno-tune on top of that and 25-30 rwhp is not unheard of. Since 10 rwhp = .1 ET loss, the normal gains from Headers would be about 2 or 3 tenths where Converters usually drop a solid .5 (up to .8 with the right tires).
doodad
01-31-2006, 06:58 AM
LT headers with ORY on a bolt-on car is good for about 15-20 rwhp. Add a dyno-tune on top of that and 25-30 rwhp is not unheard of. Since 10 rwhp = .1 ET loss, the normal gains from Headers would be about 2 or 3 tenths where Converters usually drop a solid .5 (up to .8 with the right tires).
about converters, l agree with u.. if u got a4, then the stall would be the best choice l guess..
about converters, l agree with u.. if u got a4, then the stall would be the best choice l guess..
MidwayAvenue
01-31-2006, 05:47 PM
Thanks for the help..i've decided on going for the converter as my next mod...
but i have another question..did you install your converter yourself or did u take it to a shop...just curious on an estimate for the installation??..
thanks
but i have another question..did you install your converter yourself or did u take it to a shop...just curious on an estimate for the installation??..
thanks
Darrensls1
01-31-2006, 05:58 PM
Thanks for the help..i've decided on going for the converter as my next mod...
but i have another question..did you install your converter yourself or did u take it to a shop...just curious on an estimate for the installation??..
thanks
I paid to have mine installed. $250-350 is considered normal for a converter install. I paid $275 for mine. But don't forget the transmission cooler. They are a must have with the converter or your 4L60E will die a very quick and painful death. The B&M 24K cooler is an excellent choice and it's only $50. They are easy to install but if you prefer not to mess with it then figure another $50 for installation of the cooler.
Good Luck.
but i have another question..did you install your converter yourself or did u take it to a shop...just curious on an estimate for the installation??..
thanks
I paid to have mine installed. $250-350 is considered normal for a converter install. I paid $275 for mine. But don't forget the transmission cooler. They are a must have with the converter or your 4L60E will die a very quick and painful death. The B&M 24K cooler is an excellent choice and it's only $50. They are easy to install but if you prefer not to mess with it then figure another $50 for installation of the cooler.
Good Luck.
zx2guy
01-31-2006, 06:38 PM
just for curiosity sake what exactly is stall speed?
Darrensls1
02-01-2006, 06:52 AM
just for curiosity sake what exactly is stall speed?
Stall speed is the rpm your torque converter flashes to when you punch the gas. The automatic LS1's came stock with a 1800 stall with a 1.6 STR. So if you punch the gas from a stop or low speed roll you'll see the rpm gauge jump to 1800 (it's stall speed). On a 3500 stall when you punch the gas it flashes the motor to 3500 rpm's. It's important to match a stall speed to where the motor makes it's power and torque. LT1's make all thier power at 2400-3500 rpm's so for that engine a 2600-2800 stall is best. The LS1 makes most of it's power at 4000+ rpm's so for that motor a 3400-3800 stall works best. You want to make sure you're in your powerband not above or below it. Remember also that internal mods like heads and cam packages usually raise the motors powerband and often require a larger stall to compliment them. Most stall makers however will do a re-stall free or at least for less then the cost of a new converter.
Next thing to consider is the shift extension. This is the rpm that the converter drops the car to after a shift. The TCI 3500 has a 4700 rpm shift extension. So when I drag race my car flashes to 3500 rpm's at the launch and rises to my 6200 rpm shift point. Then when I hit second I drop to 4700 rpm's and rise back up to 6200 where I hit third. For a LS1 motor this is a beautiful thing. But for a stock LT1 this would be terrible because it keeps them above thier powerband.
STR = stall torque ratio. This number determines how hard the torque converter will hit the rear tires on a launch. The higher the number the harder it launches. The lower the number the easier it launches. For street only cars on street tires you would want a lower STR of 2.0 or less so you don't burn off your tires every time you take off. For a street/strip car on drag radials you would want a medium STR of 2.2-2.5 so you can get a good launch at the track but still maintain some sense of traction on the street. For a strip only car on sticky tires you would want a big STR of 2.7 or better. The harder you launch the better your 60' which of course has a positive affect on your ET.
Sorry this was so long but hopefully this helps a few people to understand how thier converter works.
Stall speed is the rpm your torque converter flashes to when you punch the gas. The automatic LS1's came stock with a 1800 stall with a 1.6 STR. So if you punch the gas from a stop or low speed roll you'll see the rpm gauge jump to 1800 (it's stall speed). On a 3500 stall when you punch the gas it flashes the motor to 3500 rpm's. It's important to match a stall speed to where the motor makes it's power and torque. LT1's make all thier power at 2400-3500 rpm's so for that engine a 2600-2800 stall is best. The LS1 makes most of it's power at 4000+ rpm's so for that motor a 3400-3800 stall works best. You want to make sure you're in your powerband not above or below it. Remember also that internal mods like heads and cam packages usually raise the motors powerband and often require a larger stall to compliment them. Most stall makers however will do a re-stall free or at least for less then the cost of a new converter.
Next thing to consider is the shift extension. This is the rpm that the converter drops the car to after a shift. The TCI 3500 has a 4700 rpm shift extension. So when I drag race my car flashes to 3500 rpm's at the launch and rises to my 6200 rpm shift point. Then when I hit second I drop to 4700 rpm's and rise back up to 6200 where I hit third. For a LS1 motor this is a beautiful thing. But for a stock LT1 this would be terrible because it keeps them above thier powerband.
STR = stall torque ratio. This number determines how hard the torque converter will hit the rear tires on a launch. The higher the number the harder it launches. The lower the number the easier it launches. For street only cars on street tires you would want a lower STR of 2.0 or less so you don't burn off your tires every time you take off. For a street/strip car on drag radials you would want a medium STR of 2.2-2.5 so you can get a good launch at the track but still maintain some sense of traction on the street. For a strip only car on sticky tires you would want a big STR of 2.7 or better. The harder you launch the better your 60' which of course has a positive affect on your ET.
Sorry this was so long but hopefully this helps a few people to understand how thier converter works.
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