Cam springs and retainers

I am looking into getting some cams for my lsvtec, naturally asperated. Im not really looking at a specific brand yet but i would like to have some cams with at least 250 intake lift and 230 exhaust. can anyone tell me what the limitations on the stock valve springs and retainers would be, or how much lift and/or duration their good for? I would really like to avoid replacing them if possible and if its safe?:2cents:

im not sure on the specs of the stock cam, but if that cam lift is a lot more than stock, i would get new springs, retainers, keepers, and possibly valves....it just depends on how much you're going to rev it and the amount of power you're asking it to make for you...

If you're not looking anything too crazy then Civic Type R cams would be an exceptional upgrade. Or stage one skunk 2 cams would also be nice but a little bit more expensive. Those 2 do not require spring/retainers upgrade.

If your gonna drop cams in your LS/VTEC, you might as well spend the dough on the valvetrain and raise the redline to 9k or so :evillol:

If your gonna drop cams in your LS/VTEC, you might as well spend the dough on the valvetrain and raise the redline to 9k or so :evillol:

You need to build more than a valvetrain in order for him or anyone else to rev up higher.

Yep, pistons and tune. Provided fuel is taken care of.

That's what is great about NA, it doesn't take much. Mellowboy made the best suggestions for the cams on stock valvetrain, but you shouldn't half ass anything. Have portflow put all their valvetrain parts in along with their valve job, and get Skunk2 stage 2 cams. Get Integra type-r pistons for pump gas (91 octane), or Civic type-r are for race gas. Either way, with tuning you are safe revving to 9,500 rpms. (Make sure motor is assembled propperly.) I recomend Powerpros for the work. Ask and the phone # will be given. Do you want a fast car or a FAST car.

Thats why I normally stay out of N/A conversations....:smokin:

you should check out the buddy club spec 5 cams, thats what i have in my turbo ls vtec, its a all motor cam. 306 with 11.8mm exhaust, and 312 with 12.8mm intake.

you should check out the buddy club spec 5 cams, thats what i have in my turbo ls vtec, its a all motor cam. 306 with 11.8mm exhaust, and 312 with 12.8mm intake.

That is a good cam, but i'm really suprised your valvetrain hasnt failed yet because of the aggressive specs on that cam. ALL Motor only

you should check out the buddy club spec 5 cams, thats what i have in my turbo ls vtec, its a all motor cam. 306 with 11.8mm exhaust, and 312 with 12.8mm intake.


Whats the comp ratio on your car? really really suprised your motor will run with that cam and forced induction

You dont necessarily need to upgrade your cam when goin FI. All motor cam on FI? Why??

Whats the comp ratio on your car? really really suprised your motor will run with that cam and forced induction
my cr is 9.1:1, and i got the whole buddy club valvetrain, ss valves, ti retainers, dual valve springs, everything they make for the b series head. the engines not in my car yet, so i dont know how its going to runm but im hoping itll make some power.

I appreciate the advice and the info. But yeah the buddy club cams massively exceed the specs im looking for in a cam. I'm just looking for a basic, all motor cam that will help me make more power while staying with in my 8500 rpm range. but again, thanks for the info!:grinno:

I'm running all ferrea and I love it. When I put the oversize valves in there my engine really opened up. I would be very careful with that cam in a turbo car pushing high rpm...(remember who told you so, ill leave it at that)

I'm running all ferrea and I love it. When I put the oversize valves in there my engine really opened up. I would be very careful with that cam in a turbo car pushing high rpm...(remember who told you so, ill leave it at that)
y would that cam be bad for a turbo car? isn't longer duration and high lift better air so more power? i only plan to take the car to 8000rpm max. the guy who told me to get it was the guy building my motor.

Because the specs on your cam SPECIFICALLY say "ALL-MOTOR ONLY"! If it was designed for boost it would include the phrase "GOOD FOR ALL MOTOR AND FORCED INDUCTION APPLICATIONS". Overlap is not something you want in a Forced Induction VTEC Motor. You have to remember that these cars are not big block chevy's, cant just interchange cams and other ish like that and expect to live to fight another day.....just wont happen....my 2 cents

They have cams specifically for turbo'd motors. I dont understand why you have an all motor cam. Most ppl still run stock cams because they dont want there cars to run rich.

They have cams specifically for turbo'd motors. I dont understand why you have an all motor cam. Most ppl still run stock cams because they dont want there cars to run rich.

Why would it make the car run rich? Most people runs theyre stock cams for one: Theyre cheaper, and Two: Old saying goes origional is better.

When you start changing lift/duration etc configurations on a motor spinning at 8000 rpm with 2 cams and 16 valves there isnt much room for error, then add the huge forces created by boost. Running the high lift/duration N/A cams you run the risk of damaging your valvetrain etc. I would take some time and make a simple phone call and ask for a second opinion.....it's your motor

This is crazy, turboed motors are set up completely different than NA motors. I can't imagine an NA cam would be at all what you want for a turboed motor.