building the internal kit

ok....ive asked around on this forum about where to start on my integra adn ive dicided that i need to be smart and start with the internals before i blow something up beign stupid...ive been looking around on the internet adn i have found several sites that like the eagle connectiong rods...what experiences have you guys had or heard of with eagle rods...they sound good and are reseaable priced...as far as pistons...i found a brand called CP pistons that makes a nice looking kit...i asked some of my firends, n one of them swear by them...he siad his project car his uncle n him work on have em in it has about 400rwhp rite now in a civic si..he siad they are great but ive never heard of them so im kinda weary aobut them..wat do you guys think...they include rings, and the rods include the rod bolts...but wat other bearing or fittings do i need to stoke over all teh internals here...i plan on doin the valvetrain next so im not real worried about that yet...basically im tryin to price this out now so i can start saving and get it as soon as possible.so wat do you thnk about those parts or what would you recommend and am i forgetting anything...im tired right now so im sure im missin sumthing stupid...thanks for any help

Eagle makes great rods and so does crower. As far as pistons go I see CP in magazines alot but I personally dont know anyone that got them, not to say they suck. They are probably good, most people I know use JE or Wiseco. They are all pretty much in the same price range, I assume you are going forced induction so make sure you get low compression pistons (9to1 area). You can use stock bearings or use ACL bearings (what I have, little more expensive but are fully grooved for better oil distribution). You will need a new oil pump, I recommend buying a whole new unit or you can take your origional one apart and buy a new gear to put in it. (Toda makes a gear but is really expensive, Toga makes a HV pump and bearing kit). You will need main, rod and thrust bearings). Also you should replace your water pump and timing cover. Stock honda sleeves are weak and if installing aftermarket sleeves isnt in your budget i would install a block guard while the engine is apart. www.goldeneaglemfg.com has the guard and other stuff for your engine.

ok...ive decied to go with the weisco pistons mainly bc ive heard of them and know more people that have used them and had success...everytime i try to save a few bucks on a part it back fires so im goin to stay with wat i know....now as far as sleeves go, i didnt want to have to spend that much money on them...will a block gaurd be able to hold up once i get the turbo and eventually aobut 350 rwhp hopefully..or is it neccasry to get teh sleeves...i was leaning torward the gaurds form gem on the link above this or i mite spend a little more and get teh one from z10 bc i kno that they have good parts as welll....im stayin with the eagle rods...but as far as bearing go, does anyone make a kit that will cover the rod, main, thrust and any other necessary bearing to go with it so i can buy them all together??? is there any other parts i need to add as well??? now for compression ratio...how low should it be after teh turbo gets installed...you said earler around 9:1 but i thought with a turbo pushing around 15psi it should be more like 8.5:1...was i wrong, and where should it be before the turbo bc i will not have the turbo for around 6-8 months most likely so it will be running as a na for a while....will i be able to recalculate and adjust teh compression ratio if i set it at about 9:1 now to lower it latter or is it not possible to redo without tearing it all the way down to teh pistons again???where do you suggest i set teh ratio when i get this done..

ok...ive decied to go with the weisco pistons mainly bc ive heard of them and know more people that have used them and had success...everytime i try to save a few bucks on a part it back fires so im goin to stay with wat i know....now as far as sleeves go, i didnt want to have to spend that much money on them...will a block gaurd be able to hold up once i get the turbo and eventually aobut 350 rwhp hopefully..or is it neccasry to get teh sleeves...i was leaning torward the gaurds form gem on the link above this or i mite spend a little more and get teh one from z10 bc i kno that they have good parts as welll....im stayin with the eagle rods...but as far as bearing go, does anyone make a kit that will cover the rod, main, thrust and any other necessary bearing to go with it so i can buy them all together??? is there any other parts i need to add as well??? now for compression ratio...how low should it be after teh turbo gets installed...you said earler around 9:1 but i thought with a turbo pushing around 15psi it should be more like 8.5:1...was i wrong, and where should it be before the turbo bc i will not have the turbo for around 6-8 months most likely so it will be running as a na for a while....will i be able to recalculate and adjust teh compression ratio if i set it at about 9:1 now to lower it latter or is it not possible to redo without tearing it all the way down to teh pistons again???where do you suggest i set teh ratio when i get this done..

Well, compression ratio is a set number controlled by your bore, stroke, piston shape and combustion chamber shape. So basically ways to change your compression ratio is to either change crank, rods or pistons. You can alos change the shape of the combustion chamber by machining the head but that is talking serious machining. So a quick answer is no. You can NOT drop the compression ratio to 8.5 without tearing it all down. But IMO 9 to 1 should be okay for 15 psi. But you have to be careful. 15psi on different turbos mean different air volumn. You should really figure out what the turbo is that you are using.

I would not order any parts for your engine until it has been inspected and looked over by a machine shop. Quite regularly the engine will require oversize bearing and/or rings due to existing wear. With a 9: 1 comp ratio you will be good to run 14 or 15 lb on premium gas without too much risk of detonation. Make sure you have a nice sized intercooler and the proper tuning and you should be good to go. The maching shop will also take car of gaskets and all the other little stuff that should be replaced when you rebuild your motor. For the head gasket I would just use a Cometic one and let the machine shop tell you the proper thickness to order.