Cooling problem.
ChoochCharlie
01-28-2006, 04:29 PM
I'll try to keep this short.
My 98 Venture had been overheating. Would have to pull over and bleed the vents, especially the right hand one, by the thermostat. We are broke so the problem went undiagnosed for some time.
Then I noticed that if I kept the heat off, and on the cold setting, the van would not over heat. Then, as soon as you turned on the heat, vapor locked water pump and overheat.
It always had that typical dirty injector rough idle when I started it cold. Would run some cleaner through it and all seemed fine.
Lately, the cleaner trick stopped working.
So I get some money, and to the dealer it goes. The tech finds a misfire on cylinder 2. That's the passenger side front cylinder, near the belt.
Finds wetness in the cylinder. Not fuel. Not oil. Gotta be coolant.
He does a pressure check on the cooling system. Fine. No coolant enters the cylinder.
Pressure checks the cylinder. Fine. No bubbles in the radiator.
But it still keeps over heating. Air is getting in, or coolant is leaving.
Cant find any in the exhaust. But it does seem a bit wetter than usual.
We conclude that I have a cracked head, block or bad head gasket at cylinder 2. The crack must open at a certain temp only.
I take it back and put a new water pump on it.
We found that while it was trying to overheat, if you revved the motor, the temp dropped. Sounded like a bad impeller.
Get the old one out, it's clean and new looking.
Then I notice the fan isnt coming on.
I go back to the dealer and the tech swears it worked every time with him.
We talk for an hour and are both baffled. If the air is getting in from the crack, then why will the temp drop right before red line? I can go a few miles at normal temp, then the temp slowly rises, at almost red line it stops and then falls back to normal. It the air was from the crack, the temp would not fall, it would blow out a ton of coolant and I would have to stop. The temp should not drop.
I get it home, fan works again. I have no clue why.
So I get the thermostat out, what a pain. BTW, dont fully remove the rear bolt on the thermostat housing. Just back it out 1/2 and inch and the cover comes off.
I actually did the cooktop hot water test on my thermostat.
It opened at 212 degrees, just as the water was starting to boil.
So there's one problem solved. A new 195 degree unit went in.
Now get this. That isnt the cause of my problems.
I can drive the van. Coolant is going somewhere. But the air goes into the heater core. So as long as I leave the heat off, it runs normal.
As soon I turn on the heat, vapor lock, over heat. Gotta pull over and bleed the system. It builds up air in the core, and I bleed it out once a day and add more water.
I plan on driving it into the ground as it's not worth putting any more money into the moter.
I have never had a beater before so Im having fun. I just BOLTED a roof rack on and got the XM radio going.
I'll keep you informed if I discover anything new or useful.
Things Ive learned so far-
Change your thermostat.
Bleed the system by the book.
The A/C fan can save you if your temp sensor isnt working.
Change your oil more often than 12K miles. Oops. Forgot, then put it off.
This isnt very short.
My 98 Venture had been overheating. Would have to pull over and bleed the vents, especially the right hand one, by the thermostat. We are broke so the problem went undiagnosed for some time.
Then I noticed that if I kept the heat off, and on the cold setting, the van would not over heat. Then, as soon as you turned on the heat, vapor locked water pump and overheat.
It always had that typical dirty injector rough idle when I started it cold. Would run some cleaner through it and all seemed fine.
Lately, the cleaner trick stopped working.
So I get some money, and to the dealer it goes. The tech finds a misfire on cylinder 2. That's the passenger side front cylinder, near the belt.
Finds wetness in the cylinder. Not fuel. Not oil. Gotta be coolant.
He does a pressure check on the cooling system. Fine. No coolant enters the cylinder.
Pressure checks the cylinder. Fine. No bubbles in the radiator.
But it still keeps over heating. Air is getting in, or coolant is leaving.
Cant find any in the exhaust. But it does seem a bit wetter than usual.
We conclude that I have a cracked head, block or bad head gasket at cylinder 2. The crack must open at a certain temp only.
I take it back and put a new water pump on it.
We found that while it was trying to overheat, if you revved the motor, the temp dropped. Sounded like a bad impeller.
Get the old one out, it's clean and new looking.
Then I notice the fan isnt coming on.
I go back to the dealer and the tech swears it worked every time with him.
We talk for an hour and are both baffled. If the air is getting in from the crack, then why will the temp drop right before red line? I can go a few miles at normal temp, then the temp slowly rises, at almost red line it stops and then falls back to normal. It the air was from the crack, the temp would not fall, it would blow out a ton of coolant and I would have to stop. The temp should not drop.
I get it home, fan works again. I have no clue why.
So I get the thermostat out, what a pain. BTW, dont fully remove the rear bolt on the thermostat housing. Just back it out 1/2 and inch and the cover comes off.
I actually did the cooktop hot water test on my thermostat.
It opened at 212 degrees, just as the water was starting to boil.
So there's one problem solved. A new 195 degree unit went in.
Now get this. That isnt the cause of my problems.
I can drive the van. Coolant is going somewhere. But the air goes into the heater core. So as long as I leave the heat off, it runs normal.
As soon I turn on the heat, vapor lock, over heat. Gotta pull over and bleed the system. It builds up air in the core, and I bleed it out once a day and add more water.
I plan on driving it into the ground as it's not worth putting any more money into the moter.
I have never had a beater before so Im having fun. I just BOLTED a roof rack on and got the XM radio going.
I'll keep you informed if I discover anything new or useful.
Things Ive learned so far-
Change your thermostat.
Bleed the system by the book.
The A/C fan can save you if your temp sensor isnt working.
Change your oil more often than 12K miles. Oops. Forgot, then put it off.
This isnt very short.
GregA
01-28-2006, 06:13 PM
I get it home, fan works again. I have no clue why.
I can drive the van. Coolant is going somewhere. But the air goes into the heater core. So as long as I leave the heat off, it runs normal.
As soon I turn on the heat, vapor lock, over heat. Gotta pull over and bleed the system. It builds up air in the core, and I bleed it out once a day and add more water.
Do you know if you have an "Auxiliary Coolant Pump" in your van? There was a TSB in 2002 that applied to 1997-1999 GM minivans that may have been applied to your van.
This is an electric pump that only runs at outside temperatures lower than about 35 degrees F. If there is a leak around the pump and it comes on when the heater is switched on, that COULD do it.
Otherwise, I believe that coolant ALWAYS flows through the heater core, regardless of the heater control settings (but I could be wrong).
Take Care,
I can drive the van. Coolant is going somewhere. But the air goes into the heater core. So as long as I leave the heat off, it runs normal.
As soon I turn on the heat, vapor lock, over heat. Gotta pull over and bleed the system. It builds up air in the core, and I bleed it out once a day and add more water.
Do you know if you have an "Auxiliary Coolant Pump" in your van? There was a TSB in 2002 that applied to 1997-1999 GM minivans that may have been applied to your van.
This is an electric pump that only runs at outside temperatures lower than about 35 degrees F. If there is a leak around the pump and it comes on when the heater is switched on, that COULD do it.
Otherwise, I believe that coolant ALWAYS flows through the heater core, regardless of the heater control settings (but I could be wrong).
Take Care,
ChoochCharlie
01-28-2006, 08:58 PM
Yea. My tech said the same thing about the core and water flowing through it. Got me. I just know it works with the heat down, then overheats with the temp turned up.
Never heard of the electirc pump. Cant find it in the Haynes either.
Thanks for the idea.
Never heard of the electirc pump. Cant find it in the Haynes either.
Thanks for the idea.
RahX
01-29-2006, 01:26 AM
Here is the tsb. As for the coolant loss, those lower intake gaskets leak like mofos. might check that out before you go messing with this tsb. the coolant will leak out and cause a no heat, hard to find leak condition. as for the misfire, that might jsut be a tuneup issue.
A/C - Poor Heat at Low RPM When Cold
Notes
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 00-01-38-011B
Date: April, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Poor Heat with Cold Outside Temperatures at Low Engine RPM
(Install Auxiliary Coolant Pump)
Models:
1997-1999 Chevrolet Venture
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1997-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport
1999 Pontiac Montana
Attention: Implementation of this Service Bulletin by "GM of Canada" dealers requires prior District Service Manager approval.
This bulletin is being revised to correct the diagnostic information under the Correction section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-01-38-011A (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on poor heat in the vehicle passenger compartment at low engine RPM. This condition is most prevalent at outside temperatures below 0°C (32°F).
Cause
The vehicle's heater core may not have sufficient engine coolant flow while the vehicle is idling. Anytime the engine RPM drops to idle speed, the temperature of the heated air may decrease to an unacceptable level even if the engine is already at full operating temperature.
Correction
A service only kit has been released which contains an electric auxiliary coolant pump. The components of this kit will boost coolant flow through the heater core whenever the outside air temperature falls below 0°C (32°F). The service kit is similar in design to the factory installed models on the 2000 model year vehicles. Any 1997-1999 vehicle that comes into the dealership that has not had the auxiliary coolant pump service kit installed and has an insufficient heating condition may need to have a pump kit installed.
Any 1997-1999 vehicle that comes into the dealership that has had an auxiliary coolant pump service kit installed and has an insufficient heating condition should be diagnosed using Heating Insufficient-Auxiliary (SI Document ID 793821) in the 2000 model year Service Information. This diagnostic and the HVAC schematics are compatible for both the installed 1997-1999 service kit and the 2000 OEM auxiliary coolant pumps. The following procedure contains specific instructions for retrofitting vehicles equipped with the following RPO codes:
^ C34 - Air Conditioner with Rear Heater
^ C60 - Air Conditioner, Front
Procedure
The RPO of the vehicle must be identified (refer to the Service Parts Identification label) to ensure that the correct parts are used. The kit can be installed using automotive hand tools.
1. Prep the vehicle and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to the Engine Cooling sub-section of Engines in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the engine coolant overflow bottle from the left side underhood diagonal brace bar.
4. Remove the cruise control module and bracket.
5. Remove the left underhood diagonal brace bar and discard.
6. Mount the coolant pump on the cross brace using a bolt, washer and nut (supplied). Install through the slotted hole (see Figure 1). The brace bar should be oriented with the bracket to the inside of the vehicle and the double bolt holes at the end of the brace to the front of the vehicle.
Important: Some kits may be equipped with a Bosch(R) (alternative) pump. If equipped, the attachment of the pump to the brace bar will be with two retaining clips (shown in Figure 1) in place of the bolt, washer and nut arrangement. Attachment of the Bosch(R) pump will utilize the two inboard holes on the bracket. Pump orientation will be the same as the standard pump.
7. Select the required hoses. Each kit contains three hoses. Only two will be used with each application. Select the hose marked with both C34 and C60 as it will be used for both applications. Select the other hose for your application by matching the RPO code with the code on the end of the hose.
Important: Hose lubricant may be used in the next step to aid in the installation of the hoses. Use P/N 9985406 if needed for all hose connections.
8. Install and clamp the hoses to the pump nipples. The hose ends are labeled pump outlet and inlet. The outlet of the pump can be identified by a directional arrow molded into the pump body. The paint marks on the hoses should be aligned at the 12:00 position for all hose attachments to ensure correct hose orientation.
9. Install the revised brace bar using 3 bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the diagonal brace bolts at the radiator support to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Tighten
Tighten the diagonal brace bolt at the wheelhouse to 47 N.m (34 lb ft).
10. (C60 ONLY) - Remove the heater hose from the heater core inlet (bottom fitting).
11. (C60 ONLY) - Install the new heater hose from the heater core inlet to the pump end outlet.
Important: The hose is marked LWR HTR and PUMP OUTLET at the respective ends.
12. (C34 ONLY) - Install the new heater hose from the pump end outlet to the rear heater coolant inlet tee (shown in Figure 2). The hose ends are labeled for flow and attachment point.
13. Install the new heater hose, P/N 10441577, from the pump inlet to the engine outlet quick connect fitting (C34 and C60). The new hose comes with a new plastic insert for the fitting. Be sure to remove and discard the old plastic insert from the engine side before installing.
Important: The harness branch with the rosebud and edge-of-metal attachment feature is to be connected to the ambient temperature sensor.
14. Connect the wire harness, P/N 15364721, to the coolant pump and route the wire harness from the pump to the area of the left headlight assembly. Pass the harness branch with the edge-of-metal clip through the radiator support behind the left headlight support frame.
15. Attach the ambient Air Temperature Sensor (ATS), P/N 10407728, to the back side of the bumper bar in the approximate location shown in Figure 3. Routing of the harness from the left to the right side of the vehicle should follow the cross car engine harness that is located just behind/below the hood latch mechanism (illustration is only for locating sensor position).
16. Connect the harness to the underhood electrical center.
16.1. Remove the 68-way connectors (bolted) for I/P and engine harnesses (black and rusty brown color).
16.2. The new harness has two wires to be connected to the terminals as follows:
16.2.1. Connect the pink wire (CKT 1239) to cavity D8 of the black colored engine electrical harness (the cavities are marked).
16.2.2. Connect the black wire (CKT 1050) to cavity B8 of the rusty brown colored I/P harness.
Notice: Use care when installing the 68-way connectors. It is possible to abrade or pinch wires, damaging the insulation by improper installation.
16.3. Assemble the underhood electrical center carefully to avoid damage to the insulation.
16.4. Use the included wire tie straps to secure all new wiring.
17. Install the cruise control bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 6 N.m (53 in lb).
18. Install the cruise control module.
19. Install the coolant recovery bottle.
20. Fill the cooling system. Refer to the Engine Cooling sub-section of Engines in the Service Manual.
21. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.
Verifying Proper Operation of the Pump
After installing all components of the kit, you must verify the proper operation of the system using the following testing procedure.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position, but DO NOT start the engine.
2. Test the coolant pump to ensure that it is not running.
Important: The coolant pump should not run at room temperature. The pump should only run below approximately 1.1°C (34°F). If the vehicle is outside, you may utilize the chart shown for the specifications of the ambient ATS.
3. Disconnect the ATS.
4. Use a fused jumper to bridge the connections on the ATS harness. Verify that this action causes the pump to run.
5. Reconnect the ATS harness
A/C - Poor Heat at Low RPM When Cold
Notes
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 00-01-38-011B
Date: April, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Poor Heat with Cold Outside Temperatures at Low Engine RPM
(Install Auxiliary Coolant Pump)
Models:
1997-1999 Chevrolet Venture
1997-1999 Oldsmobile Silhouette
1997-1999 Pontiac Trans Sport
1999 Pontiac Montana
Attention: Implementation of this Service Bulletin by "GM of Canada" dealers requires prior District Service Manager approval.
This bulletin is being revised to correct the diagnostic information under the Correction section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-01-38-011A (Section 01 - HVAC).
Condition
Some customers may comment on poor heat in the vehicle passenger compartment at low engine RPM. This condition is most prevalent at outside temperatures below 0°C (32°F).
Cause
The vehicle's heater core may not have sufficient engine coolant flow while the vehicle is idling. Anytime the engine RPM drops to idle speed, the temperature of the heated air may decrease to an unacceptable level even if the engine is already at full operating temperature.
Correction
A service only kit has been released which contains an electric auxiliary coolant pump. The components of this kit will boost coolant flow through the heater core whenever the outside air temperature falls below 0°C (32°F). The service kit is similar in design to the factory installed models on the 2000 model year vehicles. Any 1997-1999 vehicle that comes into the dealership that has not had the auxiliary coolant pump service kit installed and has an insufficient heating condition may need to have a pump kit installed.
Any 1997-1999 vehicle that comes into the dealership that has had an auxiliary coolant pump service kit installed and has an insufficient heating condition should be diagnosed using Heating Insufficient-Auxiliary (SI Document ID 793821) in the 2000 model year Service Information. This diagnostic and the HVAC schematics are compatible for both the installed 1997-1999 service kit and the 2000 OEM auxiliary coolant pumps. The following procedure contains specific instructions for retrofitting vehicles equipped with the following RPO codes:
^ C34 - Air Conditioner with Rear Heater
^ C60 - Air Conditioner, Front
Procedure
The RPO of the vehicle must be identified (refer to the Service Parts Identification label) to ensure that the correct parts are used. The kit can be installed using automotive hand tools.
1. Prep the vehicle and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to the Engine Cooling sub-section of Engines in the Service Manual.
3. Remove the engine coolant overflow bottle from the left side underhood diagonal brace bar.
4. Remove the cruise control module and bracket.
5. Remove the left underhood diagonal brace bar and discard.
6. Mount the coolant pump on the cross brace using a bolt, washer and nut (supplied). Install through the slotted hole (see Figure 1). The brace bar should be oriented with the bracket to the inside of the vehicle and the double bolt holes at the end of the brace to the front of the vehicle.
Important: Some kits may be equipped with a Bosch(R) (alternative) pump. If equipped, the attachment of the pump to the brace bar will be with two retaining clips (shown in Figure 1) in place of the bolt, washer and nut arrangement. Attachment of the Bosch(R) pump will utilize the two inboard holes on the bracket. Pump orientation will be the same as the standard pump.
7. Select the required hoses. Each kit contains three hoses. Only two will be used with each application. Select the hose marked with both C34 and C60 as it will be used for both applications. Select the other hose for your application by matching the RPO code with the code on the end of the hose.
Important: Hose lubricant may be used in the next step to aid in the installation of the hoses. Use P/N 9985406 if needed for all hose connections.
8. Install and clamp the hoses to the pump nipples. The hose ends are labeled pump outlet and inlet. The outlet of the pump can be identified by a directional arrow molded into the pump body. The paint marks on the hoses should be aligned at the 12:00 position for all hose attachments to ensure correct hose orientation.
9. Install the revised brace bar using 3 bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the diagonal brace bolts at the radiator support to 25 N.m (18 lb ft).
Tighten
Tighten the diagonal brace bolt at the wheelhouse to 47 N.m (34 lb ft).
10. (C60 ONLY) - Remove the heater hose from the heater core inlet (bottom fitting).
11. (C60 ONLY) - Install the new heater hose from the heater core inlet to the pump end outlet.
Important: The hose is marked LWR HTR and PUMP OUTLET at the respective ends.
12. (C34 ONLY) - Install the new heater hose from the pump end outlet to the rear heater coolant inlet tee (shown in Figure 2). The hose ends are labeled for flow and attachment point.
13. Install the new heater hose, P/N 10441577, from the pump inlet to the engine outlet quick connect fitting (C34 and C60). The new hose comes with a new plastic insert for the fitting. Be sure to remove and discard the old plastic insert from the engine side before installing.
Important: The harness branch with the rosebud and edge-of-metal attachment feature is to be connected to the ambient temperature sensor.
14. Connect the wire harness, P/N 15364721, to the coolant pump and route the wire harness from the pump to the area of the left headlight assembly. Pass the harness branch with the edge-of-metal clip through the radiator support behind the left headlight support frame.
15. Attach the ambient Air Temperature Sensor (ATS), P/N 10407728, to the back side of the bumper bar in the approximate location shown in Figure 3. Routing of the harness from the left to the right side of the vehicle should follow the cross car engine harness that is located just behind/below the hood latch mechanism (illustration is only for locating sensor position).
16. Connect the harness to the underhood electrical center.
16.1. Remove the 68-way connectors (bolted) for I/P and engine harnesses (black and rusty brown color).
16.2. The new harness has two wires to be connected to the terminals as follows:
16.2.1. Connect the pink wire (CKT 1239) to cavity D8 of the black colored engine electrical harness (the cavities are marked).
16.2.2. Connect the black wire (CKT 1050) to cavity B8 of the rusty brown colored I/P harness.
Notice: Use care when installing the 68-way connectors. It is possible to abrade or pinch wires, damaging the insulation by improper installation.
16.3. Assemble the underhood electrical center carefully to avoid damage to the insulation.
16.4. Use the included wire tie straps to secure all new wiring.
17. Install the cruise control bracket.
Tighten
Tighten the bolts to 6 N.m (53 in lb).
18. Install the cruise control module.
19. Install the coolant recovery bottle.
20. Fill the cooling system. Refer to the Engine Cooling sub-section of Engines in the Service Manual.
21. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.
Verifying Proper Operation of the Pump
After installing all components of the kit, you must verify the proper operation of the system using the following testing procedure.
1. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position, but DO NOT start the engine.
2. Test the coolant pump to ensure that it is not running.
Important: The coolant pump should not run at room temperature. The pump should only run below approximately 1.1°C (34°F). If the vehicle is outside, you may utilize the chart shown for the specifications of the ambient ATS.
3. Disconnect the ATS.
4. Use a fused jumper to bridge the connections on the ATS harness. Verify that this action causes the pump to run.
5. Reconnect the ATS harness
ChoochCharlie
02-03-2006, 05:42 PM
Here's an update on my cooling problem.
The van was driveable, but too much air was getting into the cooling system from the head crack or bad gasket. I needed to stop every 50 miles or so and bleed the system and get the coolant back in from the overflow.
Stopped in the friendly chain auto parts store and asked about the head repair in a bottle products. The kid had some ideas, but I ended up just reading the packages and chose Bar's Leaks - Head Gasket Repair.
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=14
http://www.barsproducts.com/products/1100%201108%20Web.jpg
I followed the directions EXACTLY. Drained the coolant and flushed the system. If you take the bleeder screws out all together and put a hose in the radiator, you get 2 fountains shooting straight up.
Poured the bottle contents in the radiator, filled and blead the system and let it run per instructions.
First thing I noticed, it didnt overheat while idling. Let it run for at least an hour with the sealant in the system.
Drained and flushed the system again and refilled with coolant and water.
I now have at least 500 miles since the fix, and it has yet to overheat. The stuff worked.
I will be back to give you further results from my experiments in shelf gimmicks.
The van was driveable, but too much air was getting into the cooling system from the head crack or bad gasket. I needed to stop every 50 miles or so and bleed the system and get the coolant back in from the overflow.
Stopped in the friendly chain auto parts store and asked about the head repair in a bottle products. The kid had some ideas, but I ended up just reading the packages and chose Bar's Leaks - Head Gasket Repair.
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=14
http://www.barsproducts.com/products/1100%201108%20Web.jpg
I followed the directions EXACTLY. Drained the coolant and flushed the system. If you take the bleeder screws out all together and put a hose in the radiator, you get 2 fountains shooting straight up.
Poured the bottle contents in the radiator, filled and blead the system and let it run per instructions.
First thing I noticed, it didnt overheat while idling. Let it run for at least an hour with the sealant in the system.
Drained and flushed the system again and refilled with coolant and water.
I now have at least 500 miles since the fix, and it has yet to overheat. The stuff worked.
I will be back to give you further results from my experiments in shelf gimmicks.
ChoochCharlie
02-03-2006, 05:44 PM
Here is a cool narative on another similar product. Gotta read it.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/cracks.html
http://www.allpar.com/fix/cracks.html
cdru
02-06-2006, 01:08 AM
Just let it be known that you are running on borrowed time. Those types of stop-leaks are not known for lasting long periods. They also can plug other areas, such as radiators. You are essentially masking the problem, not fixing it.
clee425
02-06-2006, 07:06 AM
Just let it be known that you are running on borrowed time. Those types of stop-leaks are not known for lasting long periods. They also can plug other areas, such as radiators. You are essentially masking the problem, not fixing it.
Just a note. Back in the late 70's we used liquid glass to stop leaks in HP engines. My V8 Vega had a problem with coolant leakage. Purchased LG from the store. Ran the car for 4 yrs like that.
This was a 325hp 327 engine. Also run it in my Dodge van as the 318 had problems with heads cracking. It was still running 5 years later.
The machine shop told me about using it.
Thanks,
Donnie
Just a note. Back in the late 70's we used liquid glass to stop leaks in HP engines. My V8 Vega had a problem with coolant leakage. Purchased LG from the store. Ran the car for 4 yrs like that.
This was a 325hp 327 engine. Also run it in my Dodge van as the 318 had problems with heads cracking. It was still running 5 years later.
The machine shop told me about using it.
Thanks,
Donnie
ChoochCharlie
03-16-2006, 09:20 PM
An update.
I drive my Venture daily, anywhere from 100 to 200 miles for work.
So I've put about 6000 miles on it since the liquid fix. She ran great, only overheating when I sat at idle for more than 15 minutes or so. I guess that means the crack didnt get completely filled.
Last week the temps jumped into the 60's and 70's. The van did not like the warm weather. The guage would creap up at every light, and God forbid I got stuck in traffic.
Pulled the thermostat out the other night. Who needs heat anyway huh?
Actually, I cut the spring side out of the thermostat and used the remaining ring and gasket to keep a seal. It runs VERY cool at highway speed now, but the temps still creep up when sitting.
Im getting ready to flush the system again and put some Bars Leak in for the whole summer. Wish me luck.
The inspection is up in June. Think I can make it?
I drive my Venture daily, anywhere from 100 to 200 miles for work.
So I've put about 6000 miles on it since the liquid fix. She ran great, only overheating when I sat at idle for more than 15 minutes or so. I guess that means the crack didnt get completely filled.
Last week the temps jumped into the 60's and 70's. The van did not like the warm weather. The guage would creap up at every light, and God forbid I got stuck in traffic.
Pulled the thermostat out the other night. Who needs heat anyway huh?
Actually, I cut the spring side out of the thermostat and used the remaining ring and gasket to keep a seal. It runs VERY cool at highway speed now, but the temps still creep up when sitting.
Im getting ready to flush the system again and put some Bars Leak in for the whole summer. Wish me luck.
The inspection is up in June. Think I can make it?
ChoochCharlie
06-08-2006, 10:08 PM
New update, for anyone who might have similar problems.
I did the liquid fix back in January. Now June, the van is still going. Though I have noticed a few things.
My radiator cap kept fouling. That is why the temps kept coming up while sitting in traffic. The return seal would get liquid glass gummed up in the gasket and this would allow pressure and steam to escape, boiling off my coolant. I was losing about a quart of water a week.
To fix this, I drained and flushed the system again and bought a new, lever lock radiator cap.
New problem. My cooling fan has died. Maybe it's been dead a while. I thought it was the sensor again. I hate to get a new one for a van I know will soon die, So I just always run the A/C. Its fan and the lack of a thermostat keeps me below red.
I'm praying I can get thru the summer.
Paid $2.77 for gas today. Lowest price in months.
I did the liquid fix back in January. Now June, the van is still going. Though I have noticed a few things.
My radiator cap kept fouling. That is why the temps kept coming up while sitting in traffic. The return seal would get liquid glass gummed up in the gasket and this would allow pressure and steam to escape, boiling off my coolant. I was losing about a quart of water a week.
To fix this, I drained and flushed the system again and bought a new, lever lock radiator cap.
New problem. My cooling fan has died. Maybe it's been dead a while. I thought it was the sensor again. I hate to get a new one for a van I know will soon die, So I just always run the A/C. Its fan and the lack of a thermostat keeps me below red.
I'm praying I can get thru the summer.
Paid $2.77 for gas today. Lowest price in months.
ChoochCharlie
08-03-2006, 06:44 PM
162,000 miles. The motor seized Sunday night.
I didn't quite make the summer, but I got many thousand miles more than I ever expected to get.
We were coming home from a weekend camping trip when it started over heating. Had to stop 3 times to add water but we made it. Next morning she wouldn't stay running and would squeal as it stopped. DEAD.
I told my wife that it was God's timing. We forgot to stop and fill the tank the night before. She died with less than a 1/4 tank.
Anyone need a 1998 for parts other than the engine?
I didn't quite make the summer, but I got many thousand miles more than I ever expected to get.
We were coming home from a weekend camping trip when it started over heating. Had to stop 3 times to add water but we made it. Next morning she wouldn't stay running and would squeal as it stopped. DEAD.
I told my wife that it was God's timing. We forgot to stop and fill the tank the night before. She died with less than a 1/4 tank.
Anyone need a 1998 for parts other than the engine?
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