Window clips
PotIsYourFriend
01-28-2006, 02:50 PM
Ok so I bought a new regulator from the dealership and installed but one of the black clips on the window is broken off where the bolt would screw to to hold the window into place... I went back to the dealership to see if they had it but they don't.. He printed out a diagram of the door and it had every part with a picture but didn't show anything glued or connected to the glass. I told him it did and that the diagram didn't show it.. He said that you need to call a glass company as the window probably comes already with it.. Now my question, is there anywhere I can order this clip because I'm not paying for a perfectly good window just because of a .50 clip is broken.. If I have to I'll just keep it all the way up the one clip that is ok. .
BNaylor
01-29-2006, 12:11 AM
Ok so I bought a new regulator from the dealership and installed but one of the black clips on the window is broken off where the bolt would screw to to hold the window into place... I went back to the dealership to see if they had it but they don't.. He printed out a diagram of the door and it had every part with a picture but didn't show anything glued or connected to the glass. I told him it did and that the diagram didn't show it.. He said that you need to call a glass company as the window probably comes already with it.. Now my question, is there anywhere I can order this clip because I'm not paying for a perfectly good window just because of a .50 clip is broken.. If I have to I'll just keep it all the way up the one clip that is ok. .
Are you referring to the window regulator (sash) clips? I have two part numbers.
Old - 12337848
New white - 22697622
I'm afraid the clips will cost more than 50 cents especially through the GM dealer.
Are you referring to the window regulator (sash) clips? I have two part numbers.
Old - 12337848
New white - 22697622
I'm afraid the clips will cost more than 50 cents especially through the GM dealer.
PotIsYourFriend
01-29-2006, 08:01 AM
Thank you for your reply.. I'll post pics of what I'm talking about this evening when I get home from work...
PotIsYourFriend
01-29-2006, 08:36 PM
Are you referring to the window regulator (sash) clips? I have two part numbers.
Old - 12337848
New white - 22697622
I'm afraid the clips will cost more than 50 cents especially through the GM dealer.
Sorry for the blurry pic but it was night time and it had to be below 150k at this site... If you look close it's the black clip thats conneted to the window.. The one I took a pic of is ok but the one in the back I didnt take a pic of is broken...
http://uploadyourimages.com/view/242836dscn1106.gif
Old - 12337848
New white - 22697622
I'm afraid the clips will cost more than 50 cents especially through the GM dealer.
Sorry for the blurry pic but it was night time and it had to be below 150k at this site... If you look close it's the black clip thats conneted to the window.. The one I took a pic of is ok but the one in the back I didnt take a pic of is broken...
http://uploadyourimages.com/view/242836dscn1106.gif
BNaylor
01-30-2006, 12:33 AM
Sorry for the blurry pic but it was night time and it had to be below 150k at this site... If you look close it's the black clip thats conneted to the window.. The one I took a pic of is ok but the one in the back I didnt take a pic of is broken...
I see now. You mean the plastic piece that is epoxied to the window? I'll check with a GM parts tech I know.
I see now. You mean the plastic piece that is epoxied to the window? I'll check with a GM parts tech I know.
BNaylor
01-30-2006, 09:12 AM
Here is the info on the part you need. It is called a sash. Same for two or four door. The part number is 22689012. Dealer retail is $8.17 each. It also states it requires US epoxy #12378568 (dealer retail $23.48) but you should be able to use other epoxy that will work on glass.
Good luck and hopefully you'll get it resolved.
Good luck and hopefully you'll get it resolved.
PotIsYourFriend
01-30-2006, 10:00 AM
Here is the info on the part you need. It is called a sash. Same for two or four door. The part number is 22689012. Dealer retail is $8.17 each. It also states it requires US epoxy #12378568 (dealer retail $23.48) but you should be able to use other epoxy that will work on glass.
Good luck and hopefully you'll get it resolved.
Thanks alot, another question.. How do I get the old clips off? They seem to on the glass pretty good....
Good luck and hopefully you'll get it resolved.
Thanks alot, another question.. How do I get the old clips off? They seem to on the glass pretty good....
BNaylor
01-30-2006, 10:11 AM
Thanks alot, another question.. How do I get the old clips off? They seem to on the glass pretty good....
That's a good question and I really don't know. You might check with a shop that does glass replacement and ask how they do it. I'd probably very carefully use a Dremel type moto-tool and grind them off but without causing scratches or breaking any part of the glass where they are bonded.
Either way you can see that is a PITA job just for an $8.00 part. Good luck!
That's a good question and I really don't know. You might check with a shop that does glass replacement and ask how they do it. I'd probably very carefully use a Dremel type moto-tool and grind them off but without causing scratches or breaking any part of the glass where they are bonded.
Either way you can see that is a PITA job just for an $8.00 part. Good luck!
PotIsYourFriend
01-30-2006, 06:08 PM
Well after trying very carefully and not getting anywhere because the old epoxy or whatever they used was like cement so I ended up not using them.. Thanks for the part number.. What I did was drilled a hole between the glass and bottom part of the old clip and BAM!!!!!!!!!!! Not pretty but it'll do.. If one should fail I have serveral for backup purposes.. :)
http://www.uploadyourimages.com/img/2487043456.jpg
I have another question :) , you seem to know alot about these god foresaken cars... I had my Check Engine Soon light come on along with the ABS and Service Vehicle Soon light.. I got the ABS and SVS light fixed by replacing the something wheel sensor on the front tire at a GM Service Shop but after driving it since last Friday the CES light came on again. So I took it to AutoZone and there machine said it was error 420.. Which was a long list, Cat Conveter malfunction, O2 sensor, misfire, bad spark plugs or vacuum leak.. First off I had the Cat and O2 sensors replaced about 1 year ago. And come to think about it I've never had to replace a Cat before or know anyone that has either... I can't hear any vacuum leaks and I had my spark plugs along with the wires changed about 8 months ago...
So from AutoZone I took it straight to the Repair shop at my local dealership.. They hooked the scanner up to it and get the samething.. The lady tells me to replace the Cat AGAIN (note I didn't get it from there) and she said the Cat alone costs 1 THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!!!!!!! I giggled and she said take it across the street for alot less. Well I did and the total cost was under 200 dollars...
Ok now, did I replace this Cat for nothing again? If this model has a known Intake gasket leak would this cause the Cat to malfuction? Note I haven't had to add antifreeze to it for a long time but have alittle oil sludge on the cap.. But it could have been from when I added antifreeze to it about 2 yrs ago when someone replaced my antifreeze with there used oil and didn't know and poured about a quart into my reservior..
http://www.uploadyourimages.com/img/2487043456.jpg
I have another question :) , you seem to know alot about these god foresaken cars... I had my Check Engine Soon light come on along with the ABS and Service Vehicle Soon light.. I got the ABS and SVS light fixed by replacing the something wheel sensor on the front tire at a GM Service Shop but after driving it since last Friday the CES light came on again. So I took it to AutoZone and there machine said it was error 420.. Which was a long list, Cat Conveter malfunction, O2 sensor, misfire, bad spark plugs or vacuum leak.. First off I had the Cat and O2 sensors replaced about 1 year ago. And come to think about it I've never had to replace a Cat before or know anyone that has either... I can't hear any vacuum leaks and I had my spark plugs along with the wires changed about 8 months ago...
So from AutoZone I took it straight to the Repair shop at my local dealership.. They hooked the scanner up to it and get the samething.. The lady tells me to replace the Cat AGAIN (note I didn't get it from there) and she said the Cat alone costs 1 THOUSAND DOLLARS!!!!!!!!! I giggled and she said take it across the street for alot less. Well I did and the total cost was under 200 dollars...
Ok now, did I replace this Cat for nothing again? If this model has a known Intake gasket leak would this cause the Cat to malfuction? Note I haven't had to add antifreeze to it for a long time but have alittle oil sludge on the cap.. But it could have been from when I added antifreeze to it about 2 yrs ago when someone replaced my antifreeze with there used oil and didn't know and poured about a quart into my reservior..
BNaylor
01-31-2006, 08:00 AM
Good job on the window. Pretty creative. :bigthumb:
If you had the intake manifold leak after the CAT was replaced the first time it is possible that the CAT was damaged. Not all coolant gets burned off in combustion so some will work its way into the exhaust system. The CAT operates around 1200 degrees F when operating properly. Antifreeze will cause the CAT to exceed these temperatures and it will damage the CAT. Misfires wil also damage a CAT.
DTC error code P0420 is normally a bad CAT and to have a bad CAT again is a possibility. If the error code stays off for several drive cycles with the new CAT then you'll probably be OK.
If you had the intake manifold leak after the CAT was replaced the first time it is possible that the CAT was damaged. Not all coolant gets burned off in combustion so some will work its way into the exhaust system. The CAT operates around 1200 degrees F when operating properly. Antifreeze will cause the CAT to exceed these temperatures and it will damage the CAT. Misfires wil also damage a CAT.
DTC error code P0420 is normally a bad CAT and to have a bad CAT again is a possibility. If the error code stays off for several drive cycles with the new CAT then you'll probably be OK.
PotIsYourFriend
01-31-2006, 07:13 PM
Well the woman told meif they didn't reset the light then it would go off after 100 miles but it's been over 130 now since I replaced the cat and it didn't go out.. So I unplugged the battery cable for 1 hour and have driven it about 20 miles without it coming on.. Will it take 100 miles for it to come back on if there's still a problem? Or should it have come on right away if there was a problem still?
Maybe this isn't a question I should ask here but don't they make dummy O2 sensors? I mean there isnt wires going to the Cat so the onboard computer must base the info that the Cat is malfunctioning on the O2 sensor readings, correct?
Maybe this isn't a question I should ask here but don't they make dummy O2 sensors? I mean there isnt wires going to the Cat so the onboard computer must base the info that the Cat is malfunctioning on the O2 sensor readings, correct?
JTrujillo86
01-31-2006, 08:39 PM
That's correct about the O2 sensors. There is one before the catalytic converter and one after it. The computer compares the readings from the two and makes sure the cat is doing its job. Also, the only time the engine management system takes readings from the O2 sensors is when the car is at normal temperatures. The catalytic converter can't do its job when it's cold.
- Jeremy
- Jeremy
PotIsYourFriend
01-31-2006, 10:06 PM
That's correct about the O2 sensors. There is one before the catalytic converter and one after it. The computer compares the readings from the two and makes sure the cat is doing its job. Also, the only time the engine management system takes readings from the O2 sensors is when the car is at normal temperatures. The catalytic converter can't do its job when it's cold.
- Jeremy
Ok so I've gone over 20 miles so the cat had to be within temp so maybe it's fixed for now.. It can mess up again just as long as I can get my car inspected for another year then worry about it next year :grinyes:
- Jeremy
Ok so I've gone over 20 miles so the cat had to be within temp so maybe it's fixed for now.. It can mess up again just as long as I can get my car inspected for another year then worry about it next year :grinyes:
BNaylor
02-01-2006, 07:56 AM
The best thing to do is monitor it and run up some mileage. It may take several drive cycles. If it fails again be sure to get the DTC error code. Normally CAT efficiency will be a P0420. Just cross your fingers. Good luck!
PotIsYourFriend
02-01-2006, 07:14 PM
The best thing to do is monitor it and run up some mileage. It may take several drive cycles. If it fails again be sure to get the DTC error code. Normally CAT efficiency will be a P0420. Just cross your fingers. Good luck!
Well I took it to AutoZone to see what the Check Engine Light was on again.. I was prepared to buy an O2 sensor thinking this was the problem but he wanted to hook up the scanner to it.. And it had an error 128.. Which is the sensor for checking the engine temp for the temp gauge... Wow, does the light really need to come on keeping me from getting it inspected? I already knew it wasn't working because my temp gauge never moves... Now hopefully when I replace it, it won't come back on with another problem...
Well I took it to AutoZone to see what the Check Engine Light was on again.. I was prepared to buy an O2 sensor thinking this was the problem but he wanted to hook up the scanner to it.. And it had an error 128.. Which is the sensor for checking the engine temp for the temp gauge... Wow, does the light really need to come on keeping me from getting it inspected? I already knew it wasn't working because my temp gauge never moves... Now hopefully when I replace it, it won't come back on with another problem...
BNaylor
02-01-2006, 07:23 PM
Well I took it to AutoZone to see what the Check Engine Light was on again.. I was prepared to buy an O2 sensor thinking this was the problem but he wanted to hook up the scanner to it.. And it had an error 128.. Which is the sensor for checking the engine temp for the temp gauge... Wow, does the light really need to come on keeping me from getting it inspected? I already knew it wasn't working because my temp gauge never moves... Now hopefully when I replace it, it won't come back on with another problem...
That's coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature. I used to get that error code when I ran a 160 degree thermostat in my GTP. If you have the 195 degree it means the thermostat is stuck open or the temperature sensor (ECT) is out of calibration feeding an erroneous signal to the PCM and temperature gauge.
At least it wasn't the CAT convertor this time.
That's coolant temperature below thermostat regulating temperature. I used to get that error code when I ran a 160 degree thermostat in my GTP. If you have the 195 degree it means the thermostat is stuck open or the temperature sensor (ECT) is out of calibration feeding an erroneous signal to the PCM and temperature gauge.
At least it wasn't the CAT convertor this time.
PotIsYourFriend
02-01-2006, 11:01 PM
LOl, true.. I've never replaced the thermostat and I have over 128k.. Should I replace it?
BNaylor
02-02-2006, 06:50 AM
LOl, true.. I've never replaced the thermostat and I have over 128k.. Should I replace it?
Based on your symptoms I would. It is a classic problem on the 3.4 engine.
Based on your symptoms I would. It is a classic problem on the 3.4 engine.
PotIsYourFriend
02-02-2006, 07:49 PM
Well I replaced the sensor for the temp gaugeand GOT IT INSPECTED!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank Jesus... But the thermostat doesn't look very esy to get to.. The intake where the cables for the gas pedal line is in the way and honestly I'm tired and broke from getting this POS fixed... I'll do like I always do and wait till it F's up... Thanks again for your help bnaylor.. If anyone wants 2 window clips for free let me know...
Parsonmac
09-07-2008, 10:18 PM
I was able to remove the white broken window clips today off my daughters 2002 Alero. They were epoxied on and very hard to get off. I used a jigsaw with a fine blade and was able to remove both of them with 3 cuts each. First I CAREFULLY cut the bottom off (about 1/4 inch) cutting as close to the glass as I dared. Then I used the saw to slice the clip off each side of the window. I then used a sharp box-cutter knife to finish scaping the rest off the window and clean up the epoxy. I was able to get both clips off without breaking or scratching the window. Be careful in buying new clips. I got a new design - metal clips, that do not fit correctly and had to do some more jury-rigging to make them work.
BNaylor
09-07-2008, 10:34 PM
I was able to remove the white broken window clips today off my daughters 2002 Alero. They were epoxied on and very hard to get off. I used a jigsaw with a fine blade and was able to remove both of them with 3 cuts each. First I CAREFULLY cut the bottom off (about 1/4 inch) cutting as close to the glass as I dared. Then I used the saw to slice the clip off each side of the window. I then used a sharp box-cutter knife to finish scaping the rest off the window and clean up the epoxy. I was able to get both clips off without breaking or scratching the window. Be careful in buying new clips. I got a new design - metal clips, that do not fit correctly and had to do some more jury-rigging to make them work.
Welcome to AF.
Thanks for contributing and sharing your experience. However, this is an old thread so it has been closed.
Welcome to AF.
Thanks for contributing and sharing your experience. However, this is an old thread so it has been closed.
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