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Isuzu Rodeo 95 Window Regulator Cable Rewiring Question


AirJames
01-25-2006, 04:27 AM
I have power windows and the front left and right windows had broken top pulleys which I fixed by drilling a hole through the plastic and bolting it to the regulator slide. My questions are about the cabling.
1. Is there a specific way of positioning the window before cabling? (I.E. Window all the way up or down)
ANSWER = NO
2. Do I have to wrap the cable around the spindle to make the cable tighter?
ANSWER = YES, there should be some tension but it's not too tight.
3. Which holes do the top and bottom cables go to; the inner or outer hole on the spindle?
ANSWER = The spindle has grooves for the cables to go. The bottom pic shows a cable that is not being guided. It will go to the left where the groove is. Follow the grooves and they will end up going to the white plastic thing(shaped like a man's u know what).

Here are some pics of a general window guide from the workshop manual:
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/untitled-1.gif
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/untitled-2.gif
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/untitled-3.gif
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/untitled-4.gif
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/untitled-5.gif
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/untitled-6.gif

copelajc
01-25-2006, 10:02 AM
I just replace both front window regulators on my 1995.5 Rodeo. It would be a lot easier and faster to just replace the regulator as a unit. It comes with all necessary wiring.

AirJames
01-25-2006, 02:14 PM
I really don't want to spend $70 on a regulator if I can just figure out how the cable works. Everything is in working order except the cable is not hooked up. Does anyone have a detailed picture of the spindle with the cables in it?

AirJames
01-29-2006, 04:35 AM
I cleaned the back window regulators because of slowness moving up and down. I took out the regulator and motor and used wd40 to clean out all the gunk off the cables and rails and window rubber guides. It works smoothly now but these were different from my front windows because the spindle internally held the cabling. I tried opening it but the cable seemed wound up and I didn't want to risk messing up the coiling.

Does anyone have a picture of the cabling around the spindle for the front left and right power windows? Both my windows are not working and when I tried putting the cable in the spindle it just ended up getting locked and unmoveable. Any ideas on how the motor knows when to stop going up when the window reaches the top or down when the window is down? Any pictures would help greatly. Thanks in advance.

AirJames
01-31-2006, 12:03 AM
Got my right front window working. The cabling isn't that difficult afterall. I'll post pictures soon.

AirJames
02-05-2006, 05:21 PM
K, got ALL my windows working! Except my front left window doesn't go all the way down because the cable I made out of bicycle cable was too short by 1/2 cm. DARN! Oh well. I can go through the drive thru without opening the door!!!!!!!

Here are pics of the plastic pulley piece I reattached to the metal regulator slide:
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/imgp0360.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/imgp0361.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/imgp0362.jpg
As you might be able to see, the plastic pulley piece that was attached to the metal regulator snapped off where it was thinnest. The pulley also has a plastic notch that prevents the pulley from rotating. This plastic notch fits into an existing hole in the metal regulator. I drilled a hole in the plastic pulley and used this hole for my screw and nut. I used a small drill bit and used #4 screws/nuts. Then I used a simple ziploc tie so the pulley wouldn't move around on the screw and nut.

When drilling a hole in the pulley, I found a spot on the side and made it go through to the other side without having it mess up the cable track. Be careful. It's not a big area to work with but the plastic is very soft and drilled easily. Just aim straight.


http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/imgp0363.jpg

Shows the spindle and which cable goes which direction. It takes a bit of work to pull the last wire loop over the spindle but I used a flat screwdriver to guide it over the edge of the spindle. The cable starts from the spindle and goes in the direction of the large groove. In the picture below, the bottom cable would go to the left and up. Right now, it is showing as unwound because the window is all the way down.
http://home.earthlink.net/~twc8589450878/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/imgp0364.jpg

It doesn't matter where the window position is when you wind it but I wanted it to be somewhere in the middle so that I could wind each cable around at least once. The only important things when putting the cables in are that you wind them in opposite directions of each other so that when one goes up, the other goes down. The way the regulator is set up, you want the cable to go into the spindle the direction that it is guided/pointed by the plastic white piece(the one shaped like a male object =P).

surferfletch
02-05-2006, 09:40 PM
Nice work! Had to take some patience. I can see about 5 different steps where I would have a good chance of screwing it up!

AirJames
02-05-2006, 10:53 PM
Thanks. I hope I never have to see another window regulator again. But if I do, I'll be able to do the job in about 1 hour or less.

BTW, the cable length total with the square stub close to the middle was about 77 inches. I ended up cutting half of the good cable w/ the middle stub and for the other end used a bicycle cable w/ the anchor it came with. I attached the bicycle cable(making it longer than the stub) so I could attach it on the other end of the stub and used an aluminum thing(they sell at Home Depot shaped like an 8=8 where it would hold two wires) and hammered it put. So it was like this:

1 Cable 0---------8
The other cable []-------0

I know it's a sorry illustration. Maybe I'll make one if you request it. The 0's are the anchors and the [] is the middle square block. The 8 is the thing that holds the two wires. I made sure the 8=8 connector left a little room(about 1/2 inch) for the plastic where the middle square block[] went into. There will be alot of stress on this connector so that is the reason I put it on the other side of the block and also looped it through the 8=8 connector twice.

Also, the bicycle cable came with its' own anchor end which I hammered a bit flatter and then used a fat screw to take up the extra space and keep the anchor in.

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