Need Help With BRAKES 93 Blazer

I have a 93 Blazer in good condition with 130,000 on it. I have a service record from the previous owner showing complete brake maintnance and replacement of front driver side rotor at 111,000 mi. I replaced the pads about 1500 miles ago . I keep my head under the hood and know my way around my car, but i'm kinda stumped right now. The driver side pads wore quickly but also the inside pad is disentegrated compared to the outside which is absolutely fine. I had extreme difficulty simply removing the caliper. But the real problem is that the inside of the rotor has worn excessively and needs to be replaced after only 19,000 mi. Is that due to improper installation last time, could the caliper have been positioned improperly, is there a problem with brake balance, and why did the inside pad wear quicker than the outside pad? Why did the rotor wear unevenly on the inside(about 1/8" more wear than outside) and what steps can I take to prevent this from happening once I replace the rotor? It is beyond resurfacing, and replacing it so quickly makes no sense. Thanks....

I have a 93 S10Blazer and have had mysterious brake pad (front brakes) problems. On my second set of pads which were installed at 78,101 miles with "premium" Bendix pads. These were at 15,000 miles when I noticed, after pulling a wheel, that one of the pads was ready to "crash" and the rotor needed to be replaced.

The other wheel had very little wear. Bendix gave me a new set of pads when I showed them the old ones. A pain-in-the-butt but at least they stood by their product. I have no idea why one wheel was good and the other fell apart. Both rotors were original and showed no signs of wear at the last pad replacement.

I'm thinking that since I was the mechanic who replaced the pads that I did something wrong on one wheel but was right on the other. Go figure!

Strange , my wifes Jeep did the same thing on rt front . But it sounds like the caliper is not sliding freely on the mounting shafts causing them to drag and burn off . My replacement pads came with a small tube of shaft grease . When on dirt try stopping fast enough to drag the tires see if that front locks first . Maybe the other is not working proper and all the work is on the rt . Rob

I have to agree with Rmbodie. Change the caliper on that side. The piston is getting stuck. It seems to me, you should have been able to feel the truck pulling to that side while driving. After replacing the caliper, while the truck is jacked up, spin the wheel several times and have someone brake it periodically. before declaring it fixxed, make sure the wheel will turn with a slight drag feel of the brake pads touching the rotor. You should be able to turn the wheel by hand quite easily, and should be able to hear and feel the brakes rubbing slightly.
SC

When the inside pad and rotor wear more, I think it's because the caliper is not sliding properly. You need to make sure the caliper, bolts, and seals are cleaned and greased, I use synthetic brake grease. I have had this problem on my 98 Blazer also. It seems to take a lot of maintenance, checking and greasing, to keep things sliding properly.

If the inboard pad wears faster, the caliper piston is binding in the bore. If the outboard pad wears faster, the hardware is binding. If both of the pads on one side of a hydraulic system wear faster than the other, most likely a restricted hose on that side, or air in the opposite side. NOTE: worded this way to include diagonal hydraulic systems.

after pulling a wheel, that one of the pads was ready to "crash" and the rotor needed to be replaced.


The reason I pulled the wheel was because one the wear sensors was "singing". To my recollection, the pads on that side had lots of cracks and wore unevenly (one side had lots of material while the other was thin causing the wear sensor to contact the rotor). The other wheel had very little wear. One thing I thought about later which may have caused premature failure on one wheel was that I might have bolted the wheel on before actuating the pads and centering the rotor. I don't know what best practice should be, however, I've changed my procedure by making sure that the rotor and calipers have been centered by bolting the rotor (if it's a floating rotor) and pumping the brake to allow the caliper and rotor to equalize before mounting the wheel. Since doing that, I haven't had any uneven wear (yet).