91 maxima will not run

I have a 91 maxima that will not run. It has spark at the plugs and coil plus everything has been replaced turns over just fine. Was driving and it just died that is when we replaced everything. Checked the timing belt it is fine the rotor turns when cranking the motor just wont run. Also tried pulling up the codes to see if that would work and only got a 55 which means everything is ok. Did a compression check everything good. Tried unpluggin the maf and no difference still will not run. I am stumped any help would be appreciated. Thanks everyone.

...pulling up the codes to see ...

Maxima obd-I codes are a hillaryous gimmicks: point right when problem left

You dont mention injection? Test the injection & [ECU, cam pos sensor] as the FSM tells: Take distributor out, ign on, rotate by hand, listen to injector click. Get that info via 'Favorite Links' http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1

If the injector click is audible for each cylinder, then u miss gas: Fuelpump, missing pwr, pressure regulator faulty, fuel filter or fuelhose blocked.

Early 3gen models will not start if cam pos sensor faulty, grounding bad. See for pages 9&10

Thanks I forgot to mention fuel pressure is 40 also put in a good distributor that came off a running car.

... fuel pressure is 40 also put in a good distributor that came off a running car.

- how exactly did this problem start (noises, speed etc)?
- do injectors click?
- if I remember right, pressure should be 28-30. Bad regulator? Not the reason /solution here, I suppose...
- How did u check; is it still possible that timing belt has jumped one teeth?
- air intake, /gasket poblem, huge air leak. Then starts if giving extra gas...

Was just driving and car died. At first it would start and idle but thats it. Then it got to the point it would not start at all. Like I said replaced everything tested everything I can think of and ckecked the timing belt including to see if it did skip a couple of teeth but that was fine. I used a pressure tester and got 40 lbs. between filter and engine. Even tried starting fluid. Also checked for air leaks. I am stumped. Thanks

... tried starting fluid. ...

1. "...and car died
2. first it would start and idle
3. not start..."

Gradually worsening until nostart?

- do injectors click?
- points to bad gas and/or flow. Do the injectors still inject gas? My guess is no. Maybe (?) you just filled your tank, got soot & water into injectors (bad filter)
- start fluid tst: if not even one sporadic ign, it crushes theory above. This points to No/Weak spark or wrong timing.

Check for healthy +12V supply voltage [and ground] at ECU, coil.

"Coil plus everything"
- Have you taken plugs out? What were/are they like -then/now.
- Have you checked timing with the timing light?
- Did u swap Transistor assy? Drop Resistor?
- Spark wire age/condition? Actual spark under pressure may not same as viewed spark. Weak spark may be nonexistant inside cylinder.

No gimmicks, just: ----air-gas-spark.on.time----

O.K. here is where I am at with this it has fuel, timing belt checked, sensors checked, spark at coil and plugs, distribitor fine including sensors. I coded the ecu only got a 55 means everything fine. So I decided to try another ecu and same results car will not start. And then I decided to check the exhaust since I had checked everything else. Here is what I found when cranking on the engine it sucks my hand to the exhaust so I tried putting my hand on the intake and it was blowing on my hand and not sucking . I think the problem lies somewhere in here any ideas anyone. By the way thanks for the responses and help that you have given already but this is probally the most frustrating problem I have encountered.

...when cranking on the engine it sucks ...exhaust .... the intake and it was blowing ....

... timing belt has jumped. Definitely replace belt. Hope compression = valves & pistons still ok.

All the timing marks are on both cams and the crank line up and the distributer is on #1.

i had a similar problem with my vg.

check the output from the battery and alternator. my car was driving just fine, then it died on the freeway. turns out the alternator was bad and the juice was gone out of the battery.

i dont know that this will fix your problem but its worth checking

All the timing marks are on both cams and the crank line up and the distributer is on #1.

This intake blow -issue is pure mechanics. When piston pushes up and a valve is open, pressure will escape open route. Your intake valve is open when it should be closed, exhaust open.

Btw, crankin should be cw. Can u (?) do compression tst.

No other explanation but timing.