Something fucked up

My 1988 S10 blazer has got four twelve inch subs in the back of it being pushed by a Boss Riot 1400 Watt amp and I have my tweeters on a Soundstorm Vanquish 420 amp and my friend wanted to put the four twelves in the back of his 1995 extended cab S10. so what he wanted to do "to keep things simple for re-installation" is use the soundstorm amp and run it bridged to my subs in his truck since the Riot is a bitch to get to, so we installed it and rode around town beating the frame out of his truck for about 30 minutes and then we re-installed the amp to my tweeters and rewired the twelves to the riot amp and ever since then the subs haven't beat near as loud as they did before we took them out of my Blazer. Now the fucked up part about it is that we DID NOT adjust the Riot amp we just unplugged the wires from the sides of the boxes and left it alone so if anything should be fucked up it should be the way my tweeters sound NOT THE SUBS so any ideas about this one would be appreciated.

I might sound like a ass.But Boss is not the best amp to be bumping with sorry.What kinda subs do you have svc/dvc.

It's possible you blew one or more of the subs in your little jaunt

well agreed boss isn't he best amp to push with but then again I have some bullshit subs as well. I have two JL audio W0's and two Powerbass subs, hey what can I say they sounded good for the price and the JL's have been around forever and a day but the PB's aren't but a little under a year old.

Keep up the thoughts and comments. Also try not to criticize my audio system too awful much but if you feel the need to, then by all means give it you best shot!

I got a Boss RIP-995 (2000W, 4ch, phase control, adjustable active hpx/lpx, bass boost and gain). I love the thing. It makes my 2 tens thump better than any system I've come up against(no numbers yet). I've witnessed, in person, a Boss 150W single channel amp rip the surround apart on a 12" solobarik(like new). I've also got my amp powering my mids/highs/tweets and have it time/phase-aligned so the music comes from inside your head.

It could just be your ears. His S10 is acoustically different than your Blazer, so the subs would sound different, possibly stronger/louder. Then going back to your Blazer, you notice the difference, even though there may be no mechanical/electrical difference whatsoever. You're probably hearing the acoustic difference between the two vehicles.

no I got to looking at them and I really think that the amp got knocked out of adjustment because the subs don't rattle, they move about half as much as they did, I keep my headunit subwoofer control on 1 before this happended and now I can putit on eight and they still don't sound nor beat right, I took the two JL's out and hooked them up to another system and they beat again like normal, the only rouble with this is I've got to take the ENTIRE rear of the blazer out to get to the amp because I muonted it to the place between the sheetmetal and plastic interior pieces so that's about a days work right there. I still don't have my soundstorm even turned back up to spec yet for the tweeters I just put it on highpass and turned all of the knobs down and left it alone, so in other words the system is the least of my conserns for this blazer considering all of the problems in the brake system. I've got to get it to stop without on wheel locking up before I can pimp. Pull up on tha scene beatin and tweetin and you go to stop and one of your wheels lock up and that's the only one that works to stop you come on man. Both the system and brakes quit around the same time so I'm SOL until I do something.

What HU r u using? It may have adjustments within it for the low level outputs that reset when you disconnected the battery to remove the amp. If u didnt disconnect the battery, then the HU might have reset its low level output settings after it didnt sense a signal from the amp.

I am using a JVC Arsenal KD-AR600 headunit and have never had any problems from it like this before, while I was taking subs out and putting them back in, the only thing I don't get is that I couldn't have knocked the amp out of adjustment because of where it's at, you can't even see it much less adjust it without removing major interior panels.

Did u use the stereo while the amp was disconnected? U may have never had this situation b4 since it never sent a signal to the amp without a large draw. Your HU can sense when the amp is hooked up and not. That is the purpose of the remote wire.

Your HU can sense when the amp is hooked up and not. That is the purpose of the remote wire.

No it can't, and no it's not

Ok, my JVC head unit that is in my Oldsmobile Acheiva loses all of the settings when i disconnect the amp. When i went to a local car audio shop top figure out why, they told me that the HU resets its settings whenever i disconnect the amp. I dont know if this is true, i am just telling u guys what he said.

Stock amp, or aftermarket amp?

If it's an aftermarket amp that's ridiculous, if it's the stock amp then it's possible that the permanent power wire for the headunit runs through the amp for some reason, and when you disconnect the amp the headunit loses its permanent power connection, which makes it lose its settings.

It makes no sense, i know since the remote is an output as are the rca outs as well. It is a Pyramid 150 watt power booster amplifier that runs speaker level line outputs. The amp is ran off a wire that is off the same post on the battery teminal, and the ground is different. I am getting rid of it for a sony explode amp, but just offering a little advise.

It makes no sense, i know since the remote is an output as are the rca outs as well. It is a Pyramid 150 watt power booster amplifier that runs speaker level line outputs. The amp is ran off a wire that is off the same post on the battery teminal, and the ground is different. I am getting rid of it for a sony explode amp, but just offering a little advise.

All the remote wire does is provide a 12v DC signal to the amp to turn it on. That's all. It doesn't "sense" anything, just puts out 12v when the HU is on so that the amp comes on. The HU losing it's settings makes no sense in the way you explained it. In your case and in the guy who started the thread's case, it's hard to tell what's wrong without seeing it firsthand.

I just got a thought. Did you have your two subs wired in parallel and bridged across two channels on your amp, the first time? Then when you put them back in, you've given them their own designated channels?

I took it to the customs shop today, the people who originally installed it in my first 1990 Buick Century (the one I flipped) and he listen to it for about 5 seconds nad said the subs were out of phase and it turns out that we has the wires crosses the positive wire in the negative input in the box and so on and he swapped it and BOOM it worked perfectly again and about an hour and a half later I flipped my Blazer and it caught on fire and, well to save me a lot of typing check out my post in the stress release forum under the thread of "today toally sucked" or something along those lines, and I must admit TODAY TOTALLY SUCKED!!!!

I DO appreciate yall's help and if yall want to yall can close this thread or a mod can change the name of it to "remote wire arguement" but I love yall guys in the audio forum because of yalls concern for my audiophile needs.

THANKX AGAIN!!!!