how to change spark plugs 3.4 dohc
tela4422
01-22-2006, 09:21 AM
3.4 dohc 1995 MC. I need to change the plugs but the rear plugs look hard to get to. Do I HAVE to tilt the engine? Is there any other way? What tools would I need? Help me out guys.
growe58
01-23-2006, 11:43 AM
3.4 dohc 1995 MC. I need to change the plugs but the rear plugs look hard to get to. Do I HAVE to tilt the engine? Is there any other way? What tools would I need? Help me out guys.
If it's like the 3.1, then yes you do need to tilt the engine. But I think you're more concerned about it then you need to be. You just remove the two dogbone mounts (need a 13mm and 15mm wrench/socket IIRC), put the trans in neutral (block the wheels and set the parking brake) and rock the engine forward. It's not that big a deal.
I would recommend removing the dogbones entirely as they have a tendency to fall in a position that blocks the engine from tilting enough. Annoying that.
The hardest part is keeping the engine tilted forward. The Haynes manual recommends a racheting strap which I didn't have. I put the thru bolt for the passenger side mount back in without the mount, but with a suitably strong chain attached (bolt goes through one link of the chain). The bolt provides a leverage point to use a pry bar to rock the engine forward. Then you can bolt the other end of the chain through one of the holes left when you removed the bracket for the mount to hold it forward. This is a lot easier to do with a helper. Make sure it's safe so the engine doesn't rock back when you're working behind it!
If it's like the 3.1, then yes you do need to tilt the engine. But I think you're more concerned about it then you need to be. You just remove the two dogbone mounts (need a 13mm and 15mm wrench/socket IIRC), put the trans in neutral (block the wheels and set the parking brake) and rock the engine forward. It's not that big a deal.
I would recommend removing the dogbones entirely as they have a tendency to fall in a position that blocks the engine from tilting enough. Annoying that.
The hardest part is keeping the engine tilted forward. The Haynes manual recommends a racheting strap which I didn't have. I put the thru bolt for the passenger side mount back in without the mount, but with a suitably strong chain attached (bolt goes through one link of the chain). The bolt provides a leverage point to use a pry bar to rock the engine forward. Then you can bolt the other end of the chain through one of the holes left when you removed the bracket for the mount to hold it forward. This is a lot easier to do with a helper. Make sure it's safe so the engine doesn't rock back when you're working behind it!
tela4422
01-23-2006, 01:21 PM
whats funny is that I changed them without tilting the engine. I had to remove the rubber piece that keeps water out to get clearance for the ratchet . I just put it back on when I was done. Thanks.
rob_drummy
01-26-2006, 05:08 PM
yeah all u need to do is remove the rubber from in front of the plastic houseing that covers the bottom part of the wipers, and what some ppl do in grind in like half an inch into the metal so u can use a rachet and extention, that will give u tons of room they do the same on the 3-8's...no need to til the engine.
dr olds
02-12-2006, 06:58 AM
you do not need to remove or gind anything of you have a 95 these come out with no problems as long as you have the right extensions and a universal socket.
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