Tight and responsive steering: Another How-To! YAY
rlith
01-21-2006, 10:41 PM
So it's me again with another how-to :rofl:
So feeling a little bored, somewhat adventurous, and certifiably insane, I went for an incredibly dangerous mod. The reason I say it was dangerous, is that if I didn't do it slow and do it right, I would have been majorly hosed.
The reason for this mod is because even with a fairly new model intermediate shaft, my steering was still sloppy and my goal (which I achieved beyond my initial hope) was to get rid of the slop once and for all.
Some of you may remember my thread, "Facts about Steering Slop". In that thread I discussed the issues with "most" steering slop being caused by the rag joints at the base of the intermediate shaft wearing out. The rag joint is essentially a cloth material held together with rivets. Unfortunatly these tend to wear quickly and the intermediate shaft runs from 200-300 bux new. YOU CANNOT SIMPLY REPLACE THE RAG JOINT!
In the same thread I mentioned the Borgeson solid intermediate shafts that use a u-joint system w/ no rag joint as an option. Unfortunatly these too are also 200-300 bux. I found another solution.
Some had mentioned adapting Jeep wrangler intermediate shafts to their first gens to eliminate the rag joint. This hasn't been discussed much. But that as an aside, I started looking for info for using a Jeep shaft in a second gen (95 to current). Nothing was available, so I decided to look on my own.
The reason I was interested in the Jeep shafts, is because like the borgeson, they use a U-Joint type system. As long as the joints are good, there will not be any play in the shaft what so ever.
The 95 and up trucks differ from the 94 and below because the 95+ trucks have a 9 inch stem coming out of the firewall that the intermediate shaft slips OVER for telescoping purposes. This reduces vibration and in case of front end collision the shaft collapses. In the 94 and below, the intermediate shaft is the stem and the portion at the firewall is a hollow sleeve to allow the telescoping and collapse.
So Grappler and I start looking around the boneyard I looked at a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, a regular cherokee, and a Wrangler. The Cherokee and the Wrangler use a solid shaft that is essentially a stem, they were more inline of the 94 and below. After some checking, we discovered only the Wrangler shaft would work with the 94 and below, the regular Cherokee was too short by about 4 inches.
Now we look at the Grand Cherokee. It's a telescoping shaft with the steering column side looked like it might fit over the stem coming out of the firewall in the 95+ trucks. It also had the added benifit of having a u-joint on both ends of the shaft allowing good support with maximum flexability. Yes, I thought. This may just work.
NOTE: The splines on ALL of the Jeep intermediate shafts including the key where it connects to the steering box is exactly the same as the Chevy's. No modifications at the steering box side are needed.
So it's d-day and after thinking about how this would have to be done. We knew we would have to shorten the stem (which is part of the steering column). This was the scary part. I knew if we got this wrong, I would have to replace the steering shaft and that would be no fun, and quite expensive, even from a bone yard. But again, being bored, aventureous and insane, I had to at least give it a try.
Shown here are 3 intermediate shafts.
From left to right. 1st is the OEM shaft w/ the rag joint, Center is the Grand Jeep Cherokee shaft, and the right one is the one from the Wrangler.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft1.jpg
So we have to start some where. Grappler used a good micrometer on the intermediate shaft as well as the stem to compare dimensions. The stem from top to bottom (on the arced portion) had a difference of 60000th of an inch. This may not seem like much, but it is. (The sides were a good fit and considering that it's the sides of the stem (the flat parts) being clamped when tightened, we only needed to worry about the arcs.
Out comes the dremmel w/ a small grinding stone.
Here we dremmel out the top and bottom arcs to give us the fit we wanted on the stem.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft3.jpg
So we dremmel and measure, dremmel and measure. We were getting a bit annoyed at having to keep trying to compare and test fit in the engine compartment. So what do I do?!
I break out the air grinder w/ a cutting wheel and I cut about an inch or so off the stem so we have a live piece we can work with for testing the fit.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft2.jpg
So after a little more grinding of the arcs, and another test fit, we were comfortable with the fit.
Now for the really fun part. If we get this wrong, I'm farked. I'm farked big time. I'm so farked, I would rather be anally raped by angry midgets....But I had to try.
So we measure, and do a faux fit (connect it to the steering box and telescope it and see where we need to cut). We figured the total amount of the stem we needed to cut was 5-1/4". The reason for this is to give plenty of collapseability to the shaft. We didn't want it compressed, that would have been useless.
So we cut it off using a dremmel cut off wheel instead of the air grinder. The fact that the grinder grabs and jumps a bit and I really didn't want to cut into my brake lines or any other wiring on that side of the truck
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft4.jpg
Total amount cut off 5-1/4"
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft6.jpg
What we had left.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft5.jpg
So we grind any burrs out and make it look pretty (and flat) and the shaft slips on like getting with a 16 year old anxious virgin. (Tight, firm, and exciting),,,,(not that I would know about that...cough cough)
Gratuitus shot of Grappler's s10 w/ the Mercury Couger rear independant suspension setup. (Just had to throw this in)
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/grat.jpg
So anyway. The shaft is a perfect fit. My steering wheel is the straightest it's ever been, and plenty of space between the manifolds and the shaft. I breathe a sigh of relief.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/final.jpg
So Grappler and I take it out for a test drive and beat on it pretty hard. As I said, the steering wheel is straight, responsiveness and tightness is incredible (especially w/ my ZQ8 steering box). The truck practically drives itself now! I don't have to swing the steering wheel back and fourth to keep the damn thing straight anymore! YAY! Several miles and tons of turns and curves later, I'm quite happy.
On my way home, I start thinking. GM put the rag joint in, in part for vibration dampning. Hmmm. We really didn't run it through a test for that. What can I do? Well, this being Pennsylvania, the Pothole capital of the world, and being in Pittsburgh, the cobblestone capital of the world, I figured a little more testing was in order.
First I head down some side streets where I know there are some bad potholes. Pretty good, but very hard to tell if there is any vibration when your truck is rocking back and fourth on the pothole slolam (sic?) I needed something else. I head for Squirrel Hill. (Those of you who live around here know what that area is like) I drove 2 miles worth of cobblestone streets. Not one iota of vibration through the steering column. It was a very smooth (albeit noisy) ride. I'm happy...
But wait! There's more!
I figured a speed test was in order. A lot of vibration can happen at higher speeds. Had to do it. I hit I-279. It's me, the road, the truck and a Venti coffee w/ a shot. (I picked up Starbucks). 50, 60, 80, 96 MPH.....Smooth as glass! I finish my coffee and go home.
So in conclusion, for an average $25.00 or less and 2 hours of your time, you can have this mod and eliminate that damn steering slop causing rag joint and be happy! Just please be aware, this is a PERMANANT modification. Once you cut that stem off the steering shaft you are committed. It's not a hard mod. On a 1-10 difficulty level, I would rate it a 5. If you do do it, you will love it and wonder why you didn't do it sooner. If you decide not to do it, you can remain jealous of those that have and continue to complain about your steering slop. :banghead:
Enjoy, good night, and don't forget to try the veal....
So feeling a little bored, somewhat adventurous, and certifiably insane, I went for an incredibly dangerous mod. The reason I say it was dangerous, is that if I didn't do it slow and do it right, I would have been majorly hosed.
The reason for this mod is because even with a fairly new model intermediate shaft, my steering was still sloppy and my goal (which I achieved beyond my initial hope) was to get rid of the slop once and for all.
Some of you may remember my thread, "Facts about Steering Slop". In that thread I discussed the issues with "most" steering slop being caused by the rag joints at the base of the intermediate shaft wearing out. The rag joint is essentially a cloth material held together with rivets. Unfortunatly these tend to wear quickly and the intermediate shaft runs from 200-300 bux new. YOU CANNOT SIMPLY REPLACE THE RAG JOINT!
In the same thread I mentioned the Borgeson solid intermediate shafts that use a u-joint system w/ no rag joint as an option. Unfortunatly these too are also 200-300 bux. I found another solution.
Some had mentioned adapting Jeep wrangler intermediate shafts to their first gens to eliminate the rag joint. This hasn't been discussed much. But that as an aside, I started looking for info for using a Jeep shaft in a second gen (95 to current). Nothing was available, so I decided to look on my own.
The reason I was interested in the Jeep shafts, is because like the borgeson, they use a U-Joint type system. As long as the joints are good, there will not be any play in the shaft what so ever.
The 95 and up trucks differ from the 94 and below because the 95+ trucks have a 9 inch stem coming out of the firewall that the intermediate shaft slips OVER for telescoping purposes. This reduces vibration and in case of front end collision the shaft collapses. In the 94 and below, the intermediate shaft is the stem and the portion at the firewall is a hollow sleeve to allow the telescoping and collapse.
So Grappler and I start looking around the boneyard I looked at a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, a regular cherokee, and a Wrangler. The Cherokee and the Wrangler use a solid shaft that is essentially a stem, they were more inline of the 94 and below. After some checking, we discovered only the Wrangler shaft would work with the 94 and below, the regular Cherokee was too short by about 4 inches.
Now we look at the Grand Cherokee. It's a telescoping shaft with the steering column side looked like it might fit over the stem coming out of the firewall in the 95+ trucks. It also had the added benifit of having a u-joint on both ends of the shaft allowing good support with maximum flexability. Yes, I thought. This may just work.
NOTE: The splines on ALL of the Jeep intermediate shafts including the key where it connects to the steering box is exactly the same as the Chevy's. No modifications at the steering box side are needed.
So it's d-day and after thinking about how this would have to be done. We knew we would have to shorten the stem (which is part of the steering column). This was the scary part. I knew if we got this wrong, I would have to replace the steering shaft and that would be no fun, and quite expensive, even from a bone yard. But again, being bored, aventureous and insane, I had to at least give it a try.
Shown here are 3 intermediate shafts.
From left to right. 1st is the OEM shaft w/ the rag joint, Center is the Grand Jeep Cherokee shaft, and the right one is the one from the Wrangler.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft1.jpg
So we have to start some where. Grappler used a good micrometer on the intermediate shaft as well as the stem to compare dimensions. The stem from top to bottom (on the arced portion) had a difference of 60000th of an inch. This may not seem like much, but it is. (The sides were a good fit and considering that it's the sides of the stem (the flat parts) being clamped when tightened, we only needed to worry about the arcs.
Out comes the dremmel w/ a small grinding stone.
Here we dremmel out the top and bottom arcs to give us the fit we wanted on the stem.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft3.jpg
So we dremmel and measure, dremmel and measure. We were getting a bit annoyed at having to keep trying to compare and test fit in the engine compartment. So what do I do?!
I break out the air grinder w/ a cutting wheel and I cut about an inch or so off the stem so we have a live piece we can work with for testing the fit.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft2.jpg
So after a little more grinding of the arcs, and another test fit, we were comfortable with the fit.
Now for the really fun part. If we get this wrong, I'm farked. I'm farked big time. I'm so farked, I would rather be anally raped by angry midgets....But I had to try.
So we measure, and do a faux fit (connect it to the steering box and telescope it and see where we need to cut). We figured the total amount of the stem we needed to cut was 5-1/4". The reason for this is to give plenty of collapseability to the shaft. We didn't want it compressed, that would have been useless.
So we cut it off using a dremmel cut off wheel instead of the air grinder. The fact that the grinder grabs and jumps a bit and I really didn't want to cut into my brake lines or any other wiring on that side of the truck
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft4.jpg
Total amount cut off 5-1/4"
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft6.jpg
What we had left.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/shaft5.jpg
So we grind any burrs out and make it look pretty (and flat) and the shaft slips on like getting with a 16 year old anxious virgin. (Tight, firm, and exciting),,,,(not that I would know about that...cough cough)
Gratuitus shot of Grappler's s10 w/ the Mercury Couger rear independant suspension setup. (Just had to throw this in)
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/grat.jpg
So anyway. The shaft is a perfect fit. My steering wheel is the straightest it's ever been, and plenty of space between the manifolds and the shaft. I breathe a sigh of relief.
http://www.pghconsulting.net/teal/shaft/final.jpg
So Grappler and I take it out for a test drive and beat on it pretty hard. As I said, the steering wheel is straight, responsiveness and tightness is incredible (especially w/ my ZQ8 steering box). The truck practically drives itself now! I don't have to swing the steering wheel back and fourth to keep the damn thing straight anymore! YAY! Several miles and tons of turns and curves later, I'm quite happy.
On my way home, I start thinking. GM put the rag joint in, in part for vibration dampning. Hmmm. We really didn't run it through a test for that. What can I do? Well, this being Pennsylvania, the Pothole capital of the world, and being in Pittsburgh, the cobblestone capital of the world, I figured a little more testing was in order.
First I head down some side streets where I know there are some bad potholes. Pretty good, but very hard to tell if there is any vibration when your truck is rocking back and fourth on the pothole slolam (sic?) I needed something else. I head for Squirrel Hill. (Those of you who live around here know what that area is like) I drove 2 miles worth of cobblestone streets. Not one iota of vibration through the steering column. It was a very smooth (albeit noisy) ride. I'm happy...
But wait! There's more!
I figured a speed test was in order. A lot of vibration can happen at higher speeds. Had to do it. I hit I-279. It's me, the road, the truck and a Venti coffee w/ a shot. (I picked up Starbucks). 50, 60, 80, 96 MPH.....Smooth as glass! I finish my coffee and go home.
So in conclusion, for an average $25.00 or less and 2 hours of your time, you can have this mod and eliminate that damn steering slop causing rag joint and be happy! Just please be aware, this is a PERMANANT modification. Once you cut that stem off the steering shaft you are committed. It's not a hard mod. On a 1-10 difficulty level, I would rate it a 5. If you do do it, you will love it and wonder why you didn't do it sooner. If you decide not to do it, you can remain jealous of those that have and continue to complain about your steering slop. :banghead:
Enjoy, good night, and don't forget to try the veal....
Brian R.
01-21-2006, 10:51 PM
Good description and photos. How common is the steering gear slop in the Blazer?
rlith
01-21-2006, 10:54 PM
Good description and photos. How common is the steering gear slop in the Blazer?
Very...Chevy's in general use the rag joint. Once wet and old, it just gets sloppy. Even replacing the intermediate shaft, it will go sloppy again. This just eliminates the slop equation. :)
Very...Chevy's in general use the rag joint. Once wet and old, it just gets sloppy. Even replacing the intermediate shaft, it will go sloppy again. This just eliminates the slop equation. :)
Brian R.
01-22-2006, 12:13 PM
Can you put a coating on it (undercoating goop?) to protect it from moisture/oil/whatever?
rlith
01-22-2006, 01:21 PM
Can you put a coating on it (undercoating goop?) to protect it from moisture/oil/whatever?
On the rag joint? No...anything you might put on there would be absorbed and still wouldn't prevent the wearing out from day to day movement
On the rag joint? No...anything you might put on there would be absorbed and still wouldn't prevent the wearing out from day to day movement
DINO55
01-22-2006, 01:23 PM
rlith???
Will any of these help or work for the people that are jealous (LIKE ME)
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=25669
Will any of these help or work for the people that are jealous (LIKE ME)
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=25669
rlith
01-22-2006, 01:31 PM
rlith???
Will any of these help or work for the people that are jealous (LIKE ME)
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=25669
1st, my point was to elimate the rag joint in it's entirety...2nd with that link above, you would also need a shaft and an upper piece to connect to your truck. You're looking at about 200 bux total.
Will any of these help or work for the people that are jealous (LIKE ME)
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?lang=-1&catalogId=10002&storeId=10001&categoryId=25669
1st, my point was to elimate the rag joint in it's entirety...2nd with that link above, you would also need a shaft and an upper piece to connect to your truck. You're looking at about 200 bux total.
Teal95Jimmy
01-22-2006, 04:36 PM
I know this is a little off topic, but what is the difference between the regular steering box and the ZQ8 one you have in your truck? Will that steering box fit on the the 4x4 and do you have a link for a how to of that or is it just a simple replacement of the original box?
rlith
01-22-2006, 04:41 PM
I know this is a little off topic, but what is the difference between the regular steering box and the ZQ8 one you have in your truck? Will that steering box fit on the the 4x4 and do you have a link for a how to of that or is it just a simple replacement of the original box?
The ZQ8 is a quicker ratio box (12.1:1 vs the stock 14.7:1)
I swapped in the zq8 box in both my trucks. Direct bolt in. All that's needed is a new 4x4 Pitman arm (30 bux from most autoparts stores)
The ZQ8 is a quicker ratio box (12.1:1 vs the stock 14.7:1)
I swapped in the zq8 box in both my trucks. Direct bolt in. All that's needed is a new 4x4 Pitman arm (30 bux from most autoparts stores)
Teal95Jimmy
01-22-2006, 06:05 PM
The ZQ8 is a quicker ratio box (12.1:1 vs the stock 14.7:1)
I swapped in the zq8 box in both my trucks. Direct bolt in. All that's needed is a new 4x4 Pitman arm (30 bux from most autoparts stores)
Is that a pitman arm from the year my truck is or the pitman arm from the year that i'm swapping from
I swapped in the zq8 box in both my trucks. Direct bolt in. All that's needed is a new 4x4 Pitman arm (30 bux from most autoparts stores)
Is that a pitman arm from the year my truck is or the pitman arm from the year that i'm swapping from
rlith
01-22-2006, 07:26 PM
Is that a pitman arm from the year my truck is or the pitman arm from the year that i'm swapping from
The steering box will more than likely come with a 2wd pitman arm.
You need a 4x4 pitman arm, they are the same from 84 to current for the s10/sonoma/blazer/jimmy/bravads
The steering box will more than likely come with a 2wd pitman arm.
You need a 4x4 pitman arm, they are the same from 84 to current for the s10/sonoma/blazer/jimmy/bravads
muzzy1maniac
01-22-2006, 08:10 PM
Ok - dumb question time. I was going to swap out my intermediate shaft with what I thought was a newer one. It seems this one is pretty beat too. I like your new idea. My question, since I haven't had the time to look myself, is the part you cut in the red circle? I know the replaced part is the bottom of the shaft. I thought this was all one unit(like a shock) but it looks like yours is separated. Do they just slide apart?
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/9144/10010248nl.th.jpg (http://img26.imageshack.us/my.php?image=10010248nl.jpg)
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/9144/10010248nl.th.jpg (http://img26.imageshack.us/my.php?image=10010248nl.jpg)
rlith
01-22-2006, 08:32 PM
Ok - dumb question time. I was going to swap out my intermediate shaft with what I thought was a newer one. It seems this one is pretty beat too. I like your new idea. My question, since I haven't had the time to look myself, is the part you cut in the red circle? I know the replaced part is the bottom of the shaft. I thought this was all one unit(like a shock) but it looks like yours is separated. Do they just slide apart?
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/9144/10010248nl.th.jpg (http://img26.imageshack.us/my.php?image=10010248nl.jpg)
That doesn't look like a second gen intermediate shaft (well, not the top part with that top joint) But yes, the portion you circled is actually attached to the firewall and it goes into the steering column. If you look at the pics of the firewall shots you will see what we cut. We removed about 5" worth...
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/9144/10010248nl.th.jpg (http://img26.imageshack.us/my.php?image=10010248nl.jpg)
That doesn't look like a second gen intermediate shaft (well, not the top part with that top joint) But yes, the portion you circled is actually attached to the firewall and it goes into the steering column. If you look at the pics of the firewall shots you will see what we cut. We removed about 5" worth...
texwill
01-23-2006, 03:48 AM
I think I see my next project with this.
Southern Comfort
01-23-2006, 02:04 PM
http://photobucket.com/albums/d114/SouthernComfort47/th_SteeringboxAdjustment.jpg
This is for my 99 S10
This is for my 99 S10
s10blazerman4x4
01-23-2006, 02:14 PM
Can't click it. Nice how-to Rlith always amazing me.V8 time in a few months for you?
Southern Comfort
01-23-2006, 02:20 PM
See if this link will work.
http://photobucket.com/albums/d114/SouthernComfort47/th_SteeringBox1.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/d114/SouthernComfort47/th_SteeringBox1.jpg
billibong
01-23-2006, 02:50 PM
Rlith - I know you have a 95 blazer. Is the steering shaft the same on the later Blazers? I have a '99, and I have noticed the same slop. I was wondering if it would work with my Truck.
Would I need to change to the different steering box? It doesn't sound like that was too tough of a job either - it being a direct bolt in.
Would I need to change to the different steering box? It doesn't sound like that was too tough of a job either - it being a direct bolt in.
Southern Comfort
01-23-2006, 03:19 PM
Your steering box is adjustable. You don't need to replace it. I can email you a picture of the adjustment and you can do it your self. Takes about 20 minutes.
Let me know. c_phill@bellsouth.net
Let me know. c_phill@bellsouth.net
billibong
01-23-2006, 03:27 PM
SC - You should be getting my email any time now. Thanks in advance for the offer of help.
laxman21
01-23-2006, 07:49 PM
Your steering box is adjustable. You don't need to replace it. I can email you a picture of the adjustment and you can do it your self. Takes about 20 minutes.
Let me know. c_phill@bellsouth.net
Can you email it to me?
laxman3221@yahoo.com
Let me know. c_phill@bellsouth.net
Can you email it to me?
laxman3221@yahoo.com
rlith
01-24-2006, 05:12 AM
Still can barely see that blow up Southen Comfort...
rlith
01-24-2006, 05:12 AM
Rlith - I know you have a 95 blazer. Is the steering shaft the same on the later Blazers? I have a '99, and I have noticed the same slop. I was wondering if it would work with my Truck.
Would I need to change to the different steering box? It doesn't sound like that was too tough of a job either - it being a direct bolt in.
As stated in the article, it's for 95 to current
Would I need to change to the different steering box? It doesn't sound like that was too tough of a job either - it being a direct bolt in.
As stated in the article, it's for 95 to current
rlith
01-26-2006, 08:30 PM
Well, after a week of driving, I can tell you that I'm happy as hell with this mod. Probably one of the best mods I've done to this truck! :iceslolan
muzzy1maniac
01-27-2006, 07:31 AM
Do you have any concearns about the top clamp sliping off over time? It just a pressure fit with a bolt to clamp it down, right?
rlith
01-27-2006, 07:50 AM
Do you have any concearns about the top clamp sliping off over time? It just a pressure fit with a bolt to clamp it down, right?
Well it's a snug fit, and yes, with the bolt it clamps from the side. This is how it is done on the grand jeep cherokee. It doesn't fall out of those..LOL. That said, there really isn't any forward pressure on the top clamp only side to side. The physics are sound, and I've never heard of a grand cherokee crashing because it lost it's intermediate shaft..:icon16:
Well it's a snug fit, and yes, with the bolt it clamps from the side. This is how it is done on the grand jeep cherokee. It doesn't fall out of those..LOL. That said, there really isn't any forward pressure on the top clamp only side to side. The physics are sound, and I've never heard of a grand cherokee crashing because it lost it's intermediate shaft..:icon16:
muzzy1maniac
01-27-2006, 09:34 PM
Well it's a snug fit, and yes, with the bolt it clamps from the side. This is how it is done on the grand jeep cherokee. It doesn't fall out of those..LOL. That said, there really isn't any forward pressure on the top clamp only side to side. The physics are sound, and I've never heard of a grand cherokee crashing because it lost it's intermediate shaft..:icon16:
Good point~ I'm on the hunt for one~!
Good point~ I'm on the hunt for one~!
nickledimed
01-28-2006, 05:59 AM
Dumb question time....Im asking this just to make sure I understand this...I AM going to do this mod....question is...I have a 98 4x4 blazer....My understand is that I can go buy an intermediate are for a grand charokee and it will fit in my tuck with no modification at all?....I just dont want to go buy one and say...WTF?....
Southern Comfort
01-28-2006, 06:10 AM
You have a steering box adjust on your truck. You can buy one of those cherokee box, not sure it works on a 98, or you can adjust the box and achieve the same result.
SC
SC
muzzy1maniac
01-28-2006, 03:45 PM
Dumb question time....Im asking this just to make sure I understand this...I AM going to do this mod....question is...I have a 98 4x4 blazer....My understand is that I can go buy an intermediate are for a grand charokee and it will fit in my tuck with no modification at all?....I just dont want to go buy one and say...WTF?....
You'll have to go back and re read the original post. Permanent modification of your truck IS necessary.
You'll have to go back and re read the original post. Permanent modification of your truck IS necessary.
nickledimed
01-28-2006, 04:13 PM
You'll have to go back and re read the original post. Permanent modification of your truck IS necessary.
Dog goneit...now im realy confused....rlith said:
Now we look at the Grand Cherokee. It's a telescoping shaft with the steering column side looked like it might fit over the stem coming out of the firewall in the 95+ trucks. It also had the added benifit of having a u-joint on both ends of the shaft allowing good support with maximum flexability. Yes, I thought. This may just work.
NOTE: The splines on ALL of the Jeep intermediate shafts including the key where it connects to the steering box is exactly the same as the Chevy's. No modifications at the steering box side are needed.
Dog goneit...now im realy confused....rlith said:
Now we look at the Grand Cherokee. It's a telescoping shaft with the steering column side looked like it might fit over the stem coming out of the firewall in the 95+ trucks. It also had the added benifit of having a u-joint on both ends of the shaft allowing good support with maximum flexability. Yes, I thought. This may just work.
NOTE: The splines on ALL of the Jeep intermediate shafts including the key where it connects to the steering box is exactly the same as the Chevy's. No modifications at the steering box side are needed.
muzzy1maniac
01-28-2006, 07:25 PM
Dog goneit...now im realy confused....rlith said:
Now we look at the Grand Cherokee. It's a telescoping shaft with the steering column side looked like it might fit over the stem coming out of the firewall in the 95+ trucks. It also had the added benifit of having a u-joint on both ends of the shaft allowing good support with maximum flexability. Yes, I thought. This may just work.
NOTE: The splines on ALL of the Jeep intermediate shafts including the key where it connects to the steering box is exactly the same as the Chevy's. No modifications at the steering box side are needed.
Allright- since you have trouble following the pretty pictures....
The steering box side is a match but the other side that connects to the steering shaft needs to be cut down by aprox 5.5" and the arcs of the intermediate shaft needs to be slightly enlarged.
Now we look at the Grand Cherokee. It's a telescoping shaft with the steering column side looked like it might fit over the stem coming out of the firewall in the 95+ trucks. It also had the added benifit of having a u-joint on both ends of the shaft allowing good support with maximum flexability. Yes, I thought. This may just work.
NOTE: The splines on ALL of the Jeep intermediate shafts including the key where it connects to the steering box is exactly the same as the Chevy's. No modifications at the steering box side are needed.
Allright- since you have trouble following the pretty pictures....
The steering box side is a match but the other side that connects to the steering shaft needs to be cut down by aprox 5.5" and the arcs of the intermediate shaft needs to be slightly enlarged.
rlith
01-28-2006, 07:34 PM
Allright- since you have trouble following the pretty pictures....
The steering box side is a match but the other side that connects to the steering shaft needs to be cut down by aprox 5.5" and the arcs of the intermediate shaft needs to be slightly enlarged.
Yep... But as I said, measure 30 times and cut once..:grinyes:
The steering box side is a match but the other side that connects to the steering shaft needs to be cut down by aprox 5.5" and the arcs of the intermediate shaft needs to be slightly enlarged.
Yep... But as I said, measure 30 times and cut once..:grinyes:
muzzy1maniac
01-28-2006, 07:40 PM
Yep... But as I said, measure 30 times and cut once..:grinyes:
Or have plenty of spare parts available!
Or have plenty of spare parts available!
nickledimed
01-28-2006, 08:53 PM
kool, thanks for clearing that up.....Im sure with my handy dandy Dremel tool I can get it to work....
oh yea, for some reason I cant get the pics to load....they did the first time I loaded the page but now I cant....hmmm
oh yea, for some reason I cant get the pics to load....they did the first time I loaded the page but now I cant....hmmm
sirul
02-10-2006, 12:37 PM
Allright- since you have trouble following the pretty pictures....
The steering box side is a match but the other side that connects to the steering shaft needs to be cut down by aprox 5.5" and the arcs of the intermediate shaft needs to be slightly enlarged.
So, something that is not very clear is rlith mentioned that "the total amount cut off is 5-1/4" is this included the little inch piece that was cutted before or not?
Thanks!
The steering box side is a match but the other side that connects to the steering shaft needs to be cut down by aprox 5.5" and the arcs of the intermediate shaft needs to be slightly enlarged.
So, something that is not very clear is rlith mentioned that "the total amount cut off is 5-1/4" is this included the little inch piece that was cutted before or not?
Thanks!
rlith
02-10-2006, 01:21 PM
So, something that is not very clear is rlith mentioned that "the total amount cut off is 5-1/4" is this included the little inch piece that was cutted before or not?
Thanks!
Yes, the total including that nub was 5-1/4 inches
Thanks!
Yes, the total including that nub was 5-1/4 inches
sirul
02-10-2006, 02:47 PM
AWESOME !!
I'm going to a bone yard today and get one. I will make sure the measurement is about the same for mine.
Thanks again for the great post!!
I'm going to a bone yard today and get one. I will make sure the measurement is about the same for mine.
Thanks again for the great post!!
rlith
02-10-2006, 02:56 PM
AWESOME !!
I'm going to a bone yard today and get one. I will make sure the measurement is about the same for mine.
Thanks again for the great post!!
Measure measure measure... I do have a 2" body lift so mine be be off a 1/2... You want atleast 3-4" of the shaft extended for collapseability but it's pretty easy to eyeball
I'm going to a bone yard today and get one. I will make sure the measurement is about the same for mine.
Thanks again for the great post!!
Measure measure measure... I do have a 2" body lift so mine be be off a 1/2... You want atleast 3-4" of the shaft extended for collapseability but it's pretty easy to eyeball
rlith
02-20-2006, 06:53 PM
AWESOME !!
I'm going to a bone yard today and get one. I will make sure the measurement is about the same for mine.
Thanks again for the great post!!
Did you ever do this?
I'm going to a bone yard today and get one. I will make sure the measurement is about the same for mine.
Thanks again for the great post!!
Did you ever do this?
sirul
02-21-2006, 10:14 AM
Did you ever do this?
rlith,
I haven't get to it yet. It's been REALLY cold here and not looking forward beeing outside doing this in a 9 degree weather:banghead:
I will let you know when I get to it. Thanks again for the posting !!!
rlith,
I haven't get to it yet. It's been REALLY cold here and not looking forward beeing outside doing this in a 9 degree weather:banghead:
I will let you know when I get to it. Thanks again for the posting !!!
muzzy1maniac
02-21-2006, 10:43 AM
Cold it right. My list is getting longer by the day. I'm having trouble finding a yard that has any late model Jeeps too. A couple of them even said that they would just cut them to get at other things! Ouch!!!
nickledimed
02-21-2006, 11:11 AM
thats pretty stupid, they are soo easy to remove
muzzy1maniac
02-21-2006, 11:49 AM
I don't think there is much of a market for them so they view it as disposable.
sirul
02-21-2006, 01:52 PM
thats pretty stupid, they are soo easy to remove
You want to come by and do the job for me? I don't think you live in the norther states...IT IS COLD HERE!!
You want to come by and do the job for me? I don't think you live in the norther states...IT IS COLD HERE!!
XPC2004
03-27-2006, 06:26 PM
I'm looking at replacing my steering baecause of too much play, just to make sure I understand completely (I've read the thread a few times)
I have a 95 Blazer 4x4 (vin W)
I need...
Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft
Trusty Dremel with Grinding tool
Trusty measuring doo-hickey(measure many times, cut once, I do that anyways... )
I follow from the thread that the intermediate shaft will fit on the steering box without mods, and I just need to shave off up to 5 1/4 inches off the stem , measure always, might be a little different due to your 2' raise.
Dremel the arc to fit the shaft properly (I have a micrometer too)
And that's basically it... there was mention of a Steerign box adjustment.. do I need to do this with a 95 Blazer 4x4 using the Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft?
Many thanks for this cool mod, looking forward to executing this this coming weekend.
~Xpc
I have a 95 Blazer 4x4 (vin W)
I need...
Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft
Trusty Dremel with Grinding tool
Trusty measuring doo-hickey(measure many times, cut once, I do that anyways... )
I follow from the thread that the intermediate shaft will fit on the steering box without mods, and I just need to shave off up to 5 1/4 inches off the stem , measure always, might be a little different due to your 2' raise.
Dremel the arc to fit the shaft properly (I have a micrometer too)
And that's basically it... there was mention of a Steerign box adjustment.. do I need to do this with a 95 Blazer 4x4 using the Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft?
Many thanks for this cool mod, looking forward to executing this this coming weekend.
~Xpc
rlith
03-28-2006, 07:49 AM
I'm looking at replacing my steering baecause of too much play, just to make sure I understand completely (I've read the thread a few times)
I have a 95 Blazer 4x4 (vin W)
I need...
Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft
Trusty Dremel with Grinding tool
Trusty measuring doo-hickey(measure many times, cut once, I do that anyways... )
I follow from the thread that the intermediate shaft will fit on the steering box without mods, and I just need to shave off up to 5 1/4 inches off the stem , measure always, might be a little different due to your 2' raise.
Dremel the arc to fit the shaft properly (I have a micrometer too)
And that's basically it... there was mention of a Steerign box adjustment.. do I need to do this with a 95 Blazer 4x4 using the Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft?
Many thanks for this cool mod, looking forward to executing this this coming weekend.
~Xpc
You've pretty much got it... No steering box alighnment needed though (though steering wheel alignment may need to be done if it's off, shouldn't be though)
Remember get around 96-99 intermediate shaft..
I have a 95 Blazer 4x4 (vin W)
I need...
Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft
Trusty Dremel with Grinding tool
Trusty measuring doo-hickey(measure many times, cut once, I do that anyways... )
I follow from the thread that the intermediate shaft will fit on the steering box without mods, and I just need to shave off up to 5 1/4 inches off the stem , measure always, might be a little different due to your 2' raise.
Dremel the arc to fit the shaft properly (I have a micrometer too)
And that's basically it... there was mention of a Steerign box adjustment.. do I need to do this with a 95 Blazer 4x4 using the Grand Cherokee intermediate shaft?
Many thanks for this cool mod, looking forward to executing this this coming weekend.
~Xpc
You've pretty much got it... No steering box alighnment needed though (though steering wheel alignment may need to be done if it's off, shouldn't be though)
Remember get around 96-99 intermediate shaft..
muzzy1maniac
05-04-2006, 07:28 PM
Rilth- what type of fastener is one the Jeep shaft?? I have a line on one and plan on getting it Monday. I don't feel like dragging extra tools around.
Also, has anyone else done this with sucess? Or without?
Also, has anyone else done this with sucess? Or without?
rlith
05-04-2006, 07:33 PM
Rilth- what type of fastener is one the Jeep shaft?? I have a line on one and plan on getting it Monday. I don't feel like dragging extra tools around.
Also, has anyone else done this with sucess? Or without?
It just uses a 11mm cross bolt to hold on, same as the blazer
Also, has anyone else done this with sucess? Or without?
It just uses a 11mm cross bolt to hold on, same as the blazer
muzzy1maniac
05-08-2006, 12:32 PM
Rilth, went to a bone yard today to look at a 97 Grand Cherokee but the shaft looked diff than the one in your pic. The one in your pic looks more like the one I saw in a 95. I wonder if they changed them for the 97's then back in 98. I'll have to look some more. They're hard to come by and the one you got is in awesome condition!
rlith
05-11-2006, 07:32 AM
Rilth, went to a bone yard today to look at a 97 Grand Cherokee but the shaft looked diff than the one in your pic. The one in your pic looks more like the one I saw in a 95. I wonder if they changed them for the 97's then back in 98. I'll have to look some more. They're hard to come by and the one you got is in awesome condition!
Yeah, I think the overall change happened in 98
Yeah, I think the overall change happened in 98
DRGREENTHUMB1001
04-27-2007, 01:03 PM
Very interesitng thread, I used to own a Jeep Wrangler, I've forgotten hwo tight and responsive the steering used to be, cuz I'm used to all teh slop I get now
Afteraffekt
03-15-2011, 05:11 AM
My Cheve Blazer S10 4WD 6cyl has about 6 inches of play in the steering wheel in either direction, and is a pain to keep straight on the road. (alone with having the wheel turned about 20 degrees to the left to go straight) If I understand this resolves that problem completely, and quite simply I might add. WIll this work with my vehicle? With that same Wrangler column you used?
If so, or if not, can anybody inform me if its the rag joint causing this, and what ALl i can do to resolve the problem?
If so, or if not, can anybody inform me if its the rag joint causing this, and what ALl i can do to resolve the problem?
viggy58
03-16-2011, 04:02 AM
what year?
Afteraffekt
03-17-2011, 02:53 AM
what year?
Oh wow I feel so stupid, 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4wd 4dr 6cyl Vortec
Oh wow I feel so stupid, 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4wd 4dr 6cyl Vortec
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