97 3.5 dodge intrepid
first intrepid
01-21-2006, 05:27 PM
Can anyone tell me what codes 32 and 34 from the CEL means for a 97 Dodge Intrepid means? I've been having the same problem with rough idle for the past two winters. On rare occasions, it won't start but that is solved by giving it half throttle. I've replaced the coolant temp sensor, cleared the codes and ran it to town and back and it coded the above numbers. Any help would be great! :screwy:
RahX
01-21-2006, 07:02 PM
having someone scan and pull codes would help out a lot more. a flashing code 32 is a general egr fault,having a scantool pulling the codes would narrow it down more. the other is a cruise control problem.
first intrepid
01-27-2006, 09:48 AM
Just an update on my intrepid. Code 22 flashed and fixed by temp. control sensor. Code 34 flashed and fixed by EGR solenoid, one of the connector posts were broke off in the plug. Replaced solenoid and plug. Code 43 popped up yesterday. Still a rough idle. I'm going to try putting champion plugs back in, it has autolite in it now (for about a year). If that dosen't fix it I'll go through the usual, test coil packs, injectors, plug wires, and lastly the lower intake gasket, I have a feeling its the gasket though my husband disagrees whole heartedly. He says it should rev if it has a leak. Still working on the cruise control problem checked vacume lines, they look good. I'm gonna try pulling the brake light fuse and see if cruise works. I've heard that if the brake light switch is bad it will tell the cruise the brake is on all the time, and will not work. This is the case if cruise light never lights up during running. Mine dosen't. I still haven't found the vent solenoid, have no Idea what it looks like although I know it is on the pass. shock tower toward the fire wall. (Thanks AWP9521) And I don't know what the black box under the battery tray is called, or what its function is yet, still doing research. How would you Check the servo to see if it is bad? Probably a dumb question but, I'm a begginer. Trying to learn how to work on my own stuff, garages are way too expensive.
AWP9521
01-27-2006, 02:06 PM
On 93-94 models, the Cruise light didn't come on until the vehicle speed was actually set by pressing the SET button, then it would illuminate and shut back off if you tapped the brakes or shut down the system. That all changed for the 95-97 models as well as the inclusion of the CANCEL button, your Cruise Light should illuminate as soon as you turn on the system with the ON/OFF button, not when you set the speed with the SET Button and it should not go back out at all untill it is shut off, unless that Code 34 is related to your problem and the PCM detects it and shuts off the light.
Now about the dump Solenoid, after looking at the wiring schematics of the Cruise Control system in the manual I see I stand corrected from what I said on my PM to you, I appologise for leading you in the wrong direction for that. The Dump Solenoid is actually integrated into the Cruise Control Servo. Since the Code 34 was thrown by the PCM, (Open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits) I would be led to believe you might have a bad Servo since both of those solenoids are intregral with that Servo assembly. Now there is a Solenoid on the Passenger side Strut Tower, this is for the Manifold Tuning Valve, It will be located just below the big Engine Harness Connection Box On the Passenger Side Strut Tower, you will probably have to remove the Large Plastic Intake Tubing running from the Air Box to the Black Plastic plumbing connected to the Throttle Bodies to even be able to see it, Why I am still mentioning the MTV Solenoid is explained later in the post.
The black box located under the battery is a Vacuum Reservoir for the Cruise Control Servo and the Manifold Tuning Valve Solenoid and Valve, all it does is supply some reserve vacuum to operate the Cruise and the MTV when the engine is in a low vacuum condition, without it the cruise would not work correctly especially under accel conditions and the MTV Solenoid needs vacuum to open the Manifold Tuning Valve under Wide Open Throttle conditions. You can test for vacuum to the servo by pulling the vacuum hose off of the Servo and at the MTV Solenoid too while the engine is running to see if vacuum is present, If vacuum is present at the Servo and MTV Solenoid then you might want to try checking the connector at the Servo (You might find the same thing you found at the EGR Solenoid) or replacing the Servo as the hoses are most likely ok and will probably take care of the code 34 and make the cruise work again.
If there is no vacuum present at either spot then you have to re-check all of the vacuum hoses starting with the connection on the side of the Intake Plenum, to the Reservoir, from the Reservoir to the Servo and the MTV Solenoid (Small diameter plastic tubing running from the Engine to the Reservoir, and the larger diameter plastic tubing from the Reservoir to the T Connection at the Servo then continuing across the back of the Engine to the MTV Solenoid on the Strut Tower) for breakage or leaks. Finding and repairing any leaks present might even cure the engine idling roughness too.
Sorry for the long reply :)
Now about the dump Solenoid, after looking at the wiring schematics of the Cruise Control system in the manual I see I stand corrected from what I said on my PM to you, I appologise for leading you in the wrong direction for that. The Dump Solenoid is actually integrated into the Cruise Control Servo. Since the Code 34 was thrown by the PCM, (Open or shorted condition detected in the speed control vacuum or vent solenoid circuits) I would be led to believe you might have a bad Servo since both of those solenoids are intregral with that Servo assembly. Now there is a Solenoid on the Passenger side Strut Tower, this is for the Manifold Tuning Valve, It will be located just below the big Engine Harness Connection Box On the Passenger Side Strut Tower, you will probably have to remove the Large Plastic Intake Tubing running from the Air Box to the Black Plastic plumbing connected to the Throttle Bodies to even be able to see it, Why I am still mentioning the MTV Solenoid is explained later in the post.
The black box located under the battery is a Vacuum Reservoir for the Cruise Control Servo and the Manifold Tuning Valve Solenoid and Valve, all it does is supply some reserve vacuum to operate the Cruise and the MTV when the engine is in a low vacuum condition, without it the cruise would not work correctly especially under accel conditions and the MTV Solenoid needs vacuum to open the Manifold Tuning Valve under Wide Open Throttle conditions. You can test for vacuum to the servo by pulling the vacuum hose off of the Servo and at the MTV Solenoid too while the engine is running to see if vacuum is present, If vacuum is present at the Servo and MTV Solenoid then you might want to try checking the connector at the Servo (You might find the same thing you found at the EGR Solenoid) or replacing the Servo as the hoses are most likely ok and will probably take care of the code 34 and make the cruise work again.
If there is no vacuum present at either spot then you have to re-check all of the vacuum hoses starting with the connection on the side of the Intake Plenum, to the Reservoir, from the Reservoir to the Servo and the MTV Solenoid (Small diameter plastic tubing running from the Engine to the Reservoir, and the larger diameter plastic tubing from the Reservoir to the T Connection at the Servo then continuing across the back of the Engine to the MTV Solenoid on the Strut Tower) for breakage or leaks. Finding and repairing any leaks present might even cure the engine idling roughness too.
Sorry for the long reply :)
first intrepid
01-27-2006, 08:12 PM
Thank you so very much again for the info, it's like having your own private tutor and I am just beyond grateful to you for taking the time. Please don't ever apologize for a long reply, there is no such thing in my eyes. I'm an info junkie. I'm loving every minute of learning these things. Today I pulled the stoplight fuse, no cruise. Changed to champ. RC12 plugs [email protected], No change, still a rough idle. Checked wires, good shape. My mechanic friend @ the dealer told me a neat littel trick he tries (I didn't) spray a fine mist of water on the coil packs and get someone to hold the brake and give a little gas and watch for it to jump spark. if it does you gotta bad wire. Cool. I don't know how safe. I'm not gonna do it. Anyway that same mechanic is bringing his scanner down tomarrow evening and we'll see what he comes up with. Until then I'm just gonna keep on investigating things. I have a parts car thats a twin to mine so that makes things nice for swaping parts for testing things to see if it works or not. I'll keep you posted on our findings.
And thanks again for all the awesome info. I don't think I can ever be as helpful to you as you are to me, your above my intelligence!
And thanks again for all the awesome info. I don't think I can ever be as helpful to you as you are to me, your above my intelligence!
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