Highway vibration

I had a thread a few months ago about my intrigue vibrating. I finally went and had the tires balanced, but now when I brake from highway speeds especially, the car sometimes shakes violently as the front end shimmies back and forth. Also, at certain speeds and turing angles, I still get a slight vibration. It's a lot better than it used to be, but it bothers the hell out of me. I think it's the alignment. Any suggestions? Do our cars have camber adjustments too and might that be the problem? I dont think its the brakes cause they can still stop the car fast.

two words, WARPED ROTORS, if its happening when turning and stopping, the rotors may be warped. get them checked out, they may be able to machine them, or you may need new ones.

I agree, definitely rotors, the good news is - they are a piece of cake to replace and reasonably priced. BTW, the rears are capable of warping too.

This vibration is really starting to irk me. Sometimes it feels like it's coming from the back right tire. Then other times (now rarely) it goes away completely and it rides as smooth as God intended it to be. Then, sometimes, I can feel vibration in the steering wheel and if I let go, it will vibrate left and right. Then, at those times, when I brake, the front end of the car shimmies back and forth. When the ride is smooth, the braking is also almost as smooth as it should be. Another thing I've noticed is that at speeds like 85 or 90 mph, the ride is ususally smooth. However, if I'm driving over 100mph or under 75, the vibration is much more noticeable. It also seems to vibrate harder on humid days, while the ride is smooth on very cold days, like less than 10 degrees F.

Somebody please help! I checked the tire wear and realized that all the tires seem to be worn more towards the driver's side of the car, as though they are all out of camber. My rotors appear fine and feel as though they are not warped (at least with my hand). Might it be the tie-rod ends? or maybe I need a simple alignment. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi
what year, mileage are we talking here? I have a '99 that had similar issues except for the tire wear. Visually my tires were wearing evenly. I had the vibration/noise on the road at varying speeds, seemingly from varying locations. I replaced brakes and rotors which helped for a while but it all came back. I finally replaced the OEM tires (Goodyear Eagles) at about 45000 miles and it all stopped. I purchased the car used in '02 with 16000 miles on it. Those tires were making noise then. It only became worse. So, in my case it was tires all along. And, by the way, I didn't notice until just before I replaced the tires, but one of them was delaminating - my left front had a visible bulge where a belt/cord was coming apart from the core. This was not do to road damage or excessive speed etc.
So, do not assume your tires are not the culprit just because they have reasonable tread remaining (mine did) and are not too old (mine made noise/vibrated at four years and 16000 miles !) I replaced them with BFGoodrich from Sam's which were their cheapest tire in the size. The change was remarkable! My car rides quiet and smooth, as you said "the way God intended" :)

Good luck

I have an 01 gls that I got back in sept 05. It had 44,000 miles on it and the tires were not the stock goodyears, but rather cooper lifelines (I think - I know they're coopers). At the time, there was no vibration, however as time went on, vibration came and has been getting worse. The tires are all worn more towards the drivers side of the car, but still have significant tread left overall. Also, none of them have bulges, indicating that the cord is still intact. Oh yeah, I had the tires balanced, too to make sure it wasn't that.

Get your alignment checked - the tires should have an even wear pattern on them, if they don't have one then your car is out of alignment. Then check the ball joints and tie rod ends for play. Then check the wheel bearings, and your struts. Also new tires have a bad habit giving vibrations and other problems. If your tires are still under warrenty, reqeust new ones after you checked the other things.

What is a reasonable price to have an alignment done or at least looked at?

How much would it be at a stealership to get a tie-rod end replaced?

You really can not tell if the rotors are warped by feeling them with your hand. The maximum lateral runout is only .002 in. You need a dial indicator and a jig to measure this properly. Autozone has new front rotors for $18.99 and $29.99.

I'm taking it in tomorrow and seeing if it's a tie rod end or warped rotors. I'm leaning to it being a bad tie rod end because of the treadwear pattern and the type of vibration, but it could be warped rotors in the back. I don't think the front ones would be warped, because they were new when I got the car back in sept. and I am very easy on my brakes.

Well, I decided that $277 for two outer tie rod ends was worth it and the ride is much better. Also, I know, and the dealer also mentioned, that the rear rotors are really worn out, which probably isn't helping with the vibration. There is still some vibration in the steering wheel at highway speeds and if I let go of it, it will twitch back and forth (left and right) really fast. I don't think they realigned the wheels right because now to go straight, the steering wheel needs to be turned just a little to the right. They better fix it for free!

Alright. I took it in and had the rear rotors replaced. That helped the braking vibration a lot. I also had my tires rotated and a 4-wheel alignment. They said the back left wheel was way out of toe. My car now rides smooth almost all the time, but when I hit very smooth pavement and especially a slight right turn going downhill, my front end still shimmies slightly. Then, when I brake, the brakes vibrate up front, too. Typically, after I get below 45mph, the shimmy goes away, leaving a sligh brake pulsation behind. I know this might indicate my front rotors are warped (and bad pads), but I think it seems to be a dreaded wheel bearing issue. I noticed that when I'm going about 20 mph and when I can hear the car's sound reflection off buildings, I hear a slightly off-sounding sound from the front driver-side wheel. It almost sounds like a slight squeak or rubbing. When I apply my brakes, there is a distinct rubbing sound, like a towel being dragged on a carpet. Would a bad bearing do this?

A bad wheel bearing will make a droning or humming sound, and will get worse as time goes on. Sometimes it can almost be confused with noisy scalloped tires. A wheel bearing is more likely to make noise at speeds above 30 mph and on up, and is usually pretty constant.

I really want to get this vibration fixed, but I don't want to pay for one thing after another and the problem isn't solved. I can hear a sound coming from the front left wheel when driving, though I can only hear it when its reflected off an object. It gets louder at one point in the wheel's rotation and quiets at the opposite side of the wheel. It sounds like something rubbing, like brakes when they are freshly applied to wet discs. Vibration is sometimes present at lower speeds, such as 30 mph, but mainly comes in at speeds above 45 mph. It seems to vibrate less around 80-90, though. The vibration is mostly felt through the steering wheel in the form of a slight twitch left-right. It is rarely felt on roads with bumps in them, but rather smooth pavement. When the vibration is present and I apply the brakes, the whole front end of the car shimmies back and forth. In addition, the steering wheel twitches a lot, like an inch, left and right, many times per second. I have done the following: tire balance (3 months ago), rotation, 4 wheel alignment, outer tie rod end replacement, rear rotors (helped somewhat), and an upper control arm bushing replacement. I'm wondering if I just need to rebalance the front tires or replace the front rotors or maybe the inner tie rod-ends. Has anybody had this before? I really don't want to spend much more money, as what I 've mentioned already totals up to over $700 and that's a lot to a senior in high school!

Is someone going to help? I went yesterday and had all 4 tires balanced again. Some forms of the vibration are gone, but the steering vibration has become constant and gets worse with the brakes being applied. Am I facing an intermediate steering shaft problem, or maybe bad rotors? Maybe bad tires? At the tire shop, they pumped the tires to something like 40 psi (I didn't check - that's what they told me), claiming the recommended 31 psi is too low and causes too much wear on the outsides of the tires. HELP!

Update: Vibration is still annoying as hell, but now there seems to be something else. I can only notice it with the windows open and particularly when there is something to reflect the sound back from the car. Only when I am turning to the right (typically on freeway ramps, around 40mph) there is a clicking sound coming from the front drivers side wheel. It seems to click once with each wheel rotation. As soon as I point the wheel straight, the sound is gone. It only does it when the wheel is turned past a certain point to the right. The sound seems to have something to do with the brakes hitting the wheel? Cracked wheel perhaps? I just had my tires balanced and they said all the wheels were fine.

This vibration is getting worse! I seem to be the only one posting. Has anyone had this before? In the rain, it is awful, as the front end of the car is "shimmying" and makes a loss of control much easier - I've hydroplaned in very little water many times now. Could this be my intermediate steering shaft? I know how that would feel when it's going bad - a clunking/loosness in the steering at slow speeds, but I don't have that.

It sounds like you have a couple of things happening. the steering wheel twitching could very well be the intermediates steering shaft. I've heard there is a kit you cnapurchase to "fix" it. I learned on another forum that you cna lube the shaft form inside under the steering wheel. Use lithium grease, pull donw the rubber sheath as far as you can, spary as much greas as you can get into the connection. Makes a big difference driving.

If you are hearing noises when the wheel is turned, you could very well need a new wheel bearing. At my last inspection the mechanic mentioned I should get mine changed in a few months. I woudl check that out since you tried everythign else.

Now, the clicking sound can be heard from both front wheels. When I turn right, the sound is heard in the left wheel and when I turn left, the sound is heard from the right wheel. Also, when I am braking moderately to heavy, I can hear the sound, too. It seems to click once per tire revolution. I am going to be replacing my tires very soon with Goodyear Assurance Triple Treads, so I'll see if the existing tires are part of the problem. I'll also be replacing my front rotors with the heavy duty set (12"). I would like to lube my intermediate steering shaft, but am a little nervous. If someone could post pictures and detailed instructions, that'd be great.

Replacing the tires and brake rotors is probably where I would go first, too. (In some cases CV joints can make clunking sounds too. An experienced tech could identify this sound rather quickly). Another thing to check might be the center caps on the wheels. If they were loose for some reason they may make noise as well. Stones, nails, or screws in the tires could make noise too.

The steering shaft issue is mostly a light, soft clunking type of sound - actually will sound like it's in the column area itself - inside the car. It won't really make the steering feel loose, it's just kind of an irritating sound/feel. (My wife never even noticed it). Being a mechanic, I picked up on it right away, and after having the car for about 10 months I finally got off my ass and fixed it.

Here's the first 2 pages of the instructions for the steering shaft repair.... I didn't remove the shaft from the car totally. I just unhooked the shaft from the top and did it in the car. KEEP IN MIND, you don't want the steering wheel to move very far (left or right) once the shaft is disconnected or you will damage the spiral spring assembly for the air bag system. I used some bungee cords and secured the steering wheel to the right door somehow to keep it from moving. Also, it's a real bear getting the top of the shaft back on.


http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/kmohr3/steeringshaft1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y158/kmohr3/steeringshaft2.jpg

I just replaced my tires with Goodyear TripleTread Assurances and what a difference! No more ride vibration! They're very grippy, quiet, and have a long tread-life. I still have a front end shimmy when braking at high speeds and the rotors make nasty noises at moderate braking, so I'm going to replace front rotors and possibly pads w/Napa's (cause they're muchhhhhh cheaper than GM's).

Autozone has front rotors for $18.99 a piece. If there's enough meat on the rotors you could have them turned. I walked into a CarQuest with my 2 front rotors and they turned them for $20. I had to replace the rears cuz they were below wear limit even before turning them.

Okay. I broke down and replaced the front rotors and pads (200 something at the stealership). The brakes are smooth and strong now, but the freakin steering vibration is back! The wheel vibrates most between 40mph and 80mph. The vibration is in the form of a rapid left-to-right twitch. Once I go over 85, it goes away mostly until I hit 100. I don't want to drive 85 mph just to get rid of a vibration and get killed! I know my tires are balanced (road force balance on brand new tires a week ago today) and all my brakes are good (front rotors and pads done on wednesday, rear ones last month) and new outer tie-rod ends last month. My alignment might be out, but I doubt it, as I had a 4-wheel alignment a few weeks ago. Does anyone have any suggestions? I griped to the dealer and they will be looking at it next week (eeeeeeek). I hope it is nothing serious!

NHTSA Campaign ID Number: 03V527000 - Hide Details


1998 OLDSMOBILE INTRIGUE STEERING:RACK AND PINION

Recall Date: 12/11/2003

Summary:
CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES HAVE LOWER PINION BEARINGS IN THE POWER RACK AND PINION ASSEMBLY IN WHICH THE RETAINER TABS WERE NOT CRIMPED PROPERLY. THESE RETAINERS COULD FAIL AND PERMIT THE BALL BEARINGS TO ESCAPE.

Consequence:
IF THIS OCCURS, THE PINION SHAFT CAN BE FORCED UPWARD DURING LEFT TURNS AND BACK DOWN AS THE STEERING WHEEL IS MOVED BACK AND TO THE RIGHT. IF THE PINION SHAFT MOVES FURTHER, THE DRIVER WILL NEED TO EXERT MORE EFFORT TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL, SIMILAR TO A VEHICLE WITHOUT POWER ASSISTED STEERING. IF THE PINION SHAFT MOVES EVEN FURTHER, THE DRIVER WILL REQUIRE MUCH HIGHER EFFORT TO TURN LEFT AND MAY NOT BE ABLE TO TURN THE WHEEL AS MUCH AS INTENDED. WITH THE MAXIMUM PINION SHAFT MOVEMENT, WHICH REQUIRES INTERNAL GEAR COMPONENT DAMAGE, THE DRIVER CAN ENCOUNTER HIGH RESISTANCE TO TURNING LEFT, FOLLOWED BY UNINTENDED POWER ASSIST TO THE RIGHT. IN ANY OF THESE CONDITIONS, A CRASH COULD OCCUR.

Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL A NEW LOWER PINION BEARING UNLESS INSPECT OF THE EXISTING BEARING INDICATES THAT REPLACEMENT OF THE GEAR ASSEMBLY IS NECESSARY. OWNER NOTIFICATION BEGAN ON FEBRUARY 5, 2004. OWNERS SHOULD CONTACT BUICK AT 1-866-608-8080; CHEVROLET AT 1-800-630-2438; OLDSMOBILE AT 1-800-630-6537; OR PONTIAC AT 1-800-620-7668.

Potential Units Affected: 750283

Notes: OLDSMOBILE INTRIGUE 03062

How close does the left to right twitch sound to this report?

Report Date : May 20, 2006 at 08:40 AM
NHTSA Campaign ID number : 03V527000



Make / Models : Model/Build Years:
BUICK / REGAL 1996-1998
CHEVROLET / LUMINA 1997-1998
CHEVROLET / MALIBU 1997-1998
CHEVROLET / MONTE CARLO 1997-1998
OLDSMOBILE / CUTLASS 1997-1998
OLDSMOBILE / CUTLASS SUPREME 1996-1997
OLDSMOBILE / INTRIGUE 1998
PONTIAC / GRAND PRIX 1996
Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 03V527000 Mfg's Report Date : DEC 11, 2003
Component: STEERING:RACK AND PINION
Potential Number Of Units Affected : 750283

Notice it's for the 1998 Intrigue only. I would check those retainer tabs.

This is not what it feels like. Besides, I have an 01. I will try to explain it a little better. When I am driving, particularly between 40-75 mph, the steering wheel is usually moving back and forth (in a left-right direction) as though there is a wheel that is shimmying. As I turn, it feels very notchy, though not high effort. It's like I turn one tooth on a gear at a time without any grease, but I don't think it's coming from the rack. I am wondering if I have a bad bearing or maybe a loose tie-rod end somewhere that's allowing a wheel to wobble. Other than that, I'm ready to let the dealer diagnose it (I must have gone out of my mind).

To me, it still sounds like a tire/balance issue, although it sounds like you've very recently covered those bases. About the only thing you could do yourself at this point is try rotating the front tires to the rear to see if one of the fronts went out of balance or threw a weight off or something.

If you take it to a dealer insist on riding with the technician before he works on the car to show him exactly what it is doing. Also make sure the tech uses a torque wrench when installing the wheels to avoid warping the rotors.

Could the "clicking" noise coming from near the wheels while turning indicate a bad CV joint?

If the tires have a good balance and the motor mounts are in good shape and if the vehicle has over 50,000 miles, there is a GOOD chance that it is the much overlooked shocks or struts. Buy good ones like KYB, not the mass marketed names

Sorry but this thread is over 3 months old, almost 5 from last post and it is time to close it.