2000 Venture - low coolant light
s2002h69
01-20-2006, 09:43 AM
I have a 2000 Venture with approx 70,000 miles on it. It recently started to leak antifreeze, which I added some stop leak to correct the problem. Now, the low coolant light is constantly on, but the coolant level is okay (in both the radiator and reservoir bottle). Any idea's why this is happening and is there a way to reset this light?
Also, I have been reading a lot about intake manifold problems with the Venture, could this be part of that? What are the consequences of not having the intake manifold repaired (if needed). The Venture is out of warranty and I'm sure the repairs would cost quite a bit.
Thanks
Also, I have been reading a lot about intake manifold problems with the Venture, could this be part of that? What are the consequences of not having the intake manifold repaired (if needed). The Venture is out of warranty and I'm sure the repairs would cost quite a bit.
Thanks
cdru
01-20-2006, 10:23 AM
A bad sensor could cause it to stay on. Also an air bubble trapped. The intake manifold problems could definitely be the cause for the low coolant. It could just be a leaking hose or loose hose clamp.
The consqeuences if it is leaking coolant internally will ultimately be destroying the engine. Bearings will wear prematurely, possibly locking up and snapping cam or crank shafts. Other issues also can result. If indeed it is the intake manifold leak, dealer costs should be around 800. Independent shops should do it for less. You can do it your self for around $150 total.
The consqeuences if it is leaking coolant internally will ultimately be destroying the engine. Bearings will wear prematurely, possibly locking up and snapping cam or crank shafts. Other issues also can result. If indeed it is the intake manifold leak, dealer costs should be around 800. Independent shops should do it for less. You can do it your self for around $150 total.
s2002h69
01-20-2006, 10:59 AM
Thank you for the reply. How can you tell if coolant is leaking internally? Are there obvious signs to look for?
Thanks
A bad sensor could cause it to stay on. Also an air bubble trapped. The intake manifold problems could definitely be the cause for the low coolant. It could just be a leaking hose or loose hose clamp.
The consqeuences if it is leaking coolant internally will ultimately be destroying the engine. Bearings will wear prematurely, possibly locking up and snapping cam or crank shafts. Other issues also can result. If indeed it is the intake manifold leak, dealer costs should be around 800. Independent shops should do it for less. You can do it your self for around $150 total.
Thanks
A bad sensor could cause it to stay on. Also an air bubble trapped. The intake manifold problems could definitely be the cause for the low coolant. It could just be a leaking hose or loose hose clamp.
The consqeuences if it is leaking coolant internally will ultimately be destroying the engine. Bearings will wear prematurely, possibly locking up and snapping cam or crank shafts. Other issues also can result. If indeed it is the intake manifold leak, dealer costs should be around 800. Independent shops should do it for less. You can do it your self for around $150 total.
Memster1
01-20-2006, 11:24 AM
I had the Intake Manifold replaced by the dealer - about $800 or so. Right after the low coolant light was on but the levels were fine. I could get it to go out by tapping on the outside of the radiator but it would always come back on. I figured it gummed up when they did the job. I replaced the radiator cap with an aftermarket one. It did not help. I went to the dealer for some other work about 6 months later, and had them put a GM cap on - guess what, no more light!
As for what to look for is an intake manifold leak. An empty overflow bottle and no leaks on the driveway. Some of the leaks are external (like mine) that burn off. Others have had it leak internally and it will cause a brown mayo looking sludge on the oil filler cap. Best to bring it somewhere to get a pressure test done to see what is up. Do not let it go. If it is internal, damage to cam shafts & lifters will occur if you do not do anything.:2cents:
As for what to look for is an intake manifold leak. An empty overflow bottle and no leaks on the driveway. Some of the leaks are external (like mine) that burn off. Others have had it leak internally and it will cause a brown mayo looking sludge on the oil filler cap. Best to bring it somewhere to get a pressure test done to see what is up. Do not let it go. If it is internal, damage to cam shafts & lifters will occur if you do not do anything.:2cents:
Huney1
01-21-2006, 07:11 AM
I have the same van and yes, they have gasket problems but Chevy corrected it with a different material in the gasket in 2002 so you have the new style gasket. So MANY, MANY Ventures had that problem and if they were out of warranty the owner had to eat the repair costs.
Mustangs had a head gasket problem and Ford fixed it in 1995, BUT, Ford did the right thing and extended the warranty on faulty headgaskets to 5 years or 100K miles. Since so many Ventures have gasket problems it looks like GM-Chevy would step up to the plate and own up and fix it for free, or extend the warranty like Ford did.
Mustangs had a head gasket problem and Ford fixed it in 1995, BUT, Ford did the right thing and extended the warranty on faulty headgaskets to 5 years or 100K miles. Since so many Ventures have gasket problems it looks like GM-Chevy would step up to the plate and own up and fix it for free, or extend the warranty like Ford did.
s2002h69
01-27-2006, 01:34 PM
Hello All,
Thank you for the replies. I had the van pressure tested today and they confirmed that it is the intake manifold leaking. The estimated repair cost is roughly between 700-800. I asked about the stop leak I put in and they said it would help for a while, but will eventully get worse.
I've been reading some posts about getting GM to pay for the repairs. Does anyone think this is even possible? Where do I even begin and who would I contact at GM to discuss this? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thank you for the replies. I had the van pressure tested today and they confirmed that it is the intake manifold leaking. The estimated repair cost is roughly between 700-800. I asked about the stop leak I put in and they said it would help for a while, but will eventully get worse.
I've been reading some posts about getting GM to pay for the repairs. Does anyone think this is even possible? Where do I even begin and who would I contact at GM to discuss this? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Huney1
01-27-2006, 02:44 PM
I'd discuss it with the general manager of your local Chevy dealer and attempt to resolve the problem at the local level first. If no satisfaction, I'd ask for the name and phone number of the Chevy rep for your area, the ones for the SE are located in Atlanta, GA. Next I'd contact GM customer assistance and complain because THEY ALL KNOW THIS IS A CHRONIC PROBLEM and a major GM engineering screw-up and be firm but polite. If still no satisfaction I'd consult an attorney because it would be worth a hundred bucks to have him write GM a letter.
At this point I am very surprised this hasn't resulted in a class action law suit because there are thousands of owners who have paid big bucks to correct GM's major screw up. Let us know what goes on because mine has almost 62K miles on it but I flushed it ten times and replaced the DexCool-DeathCool with universal anti freeze hoping it will curtail the electrolisis that is eating up the intake manifold gaskets.
At this point I am very surprised this hasn't resulted in a class action law suit because there are thousands of owners who have paid big bucks to correct GM's major screw up. Let us know what goes on because mine has almost 62K miles on it but I flushed it ten times and replaced the DexCool-DeathCool with universal anti freeze hoping it will curtail the electrolisis that is eating up the intake manifold gaskets.
s2002h69
02-14-2006, 03:33 PM
Hello All,
Thank you for the replies. I spoke to GM and they would not accept the pressure test results from Midas, so the van had to go to the dealer for another pressure test. The dealer confirmed that the intake manifold is leaking coolant into the engine. :banghead:
I sent this information to GM and I am waiting for a reply. The dealer said that I might get a 30% discount on the repair, but that's about it. I'm going to see what GM has to say about the situation.
As for the coolant light staying on, they think it's a module that has gone bad and would cost around $100.00 to replace.
Anyway, I just paid the van off, so the piece of crap is officially mine. I guess I will have to get it repaired so I can get a few more years out of it. We'll have to see what GM says first, because I would like for them to eat the costs.
Will keep you posted.
Thank you for the replies. I spoke to GM and they would not accept the pressure test results from Midas, so the van had to go to the dealer for another pressure test. The dealer confirmed that the intake manifold is leaking coolant into the engine. :banghead:
I sent this information to GM and I am waiting for a reply. The dealer said that I might get a 30% discount on the repair, but that's about it. I'm going to see what GM has to say about the situation.
As for the coolant light staying on, they think it's a module that has gone bad and would cost around $100.00 to replace.
Anyway, I just paid the van off, so the piece of crap is officially mine. I guess I will have to get it repaired so I can get a few more years out of it. We'll have to see what GM says first, because I would like for them to eat the costs.
Will keep you posted.
Memster1
02-15-2006, 01:24 PM
Once the repair is done, see if the light goes away. Make sure the radiator cap is replaced with the repair as that in and of itself can cause the light issue.
There could also just be gunk on the sensor and with a flush of the radiator, that might clean it up too.
There could also just be gunk on the sensor and with a flush of the radiator, that might clean it up too.
Pusheeman
02-24-2006, 04:51 PM
To all those who have experienced or are experiencing the intake gasket problem and getting the big bill from the dealership, be aware, there is a sevice bulletin out on this problem, and they will go good for part of the cost. I just had mine done, and it cost me $300 out of my pocket. I told a friend about it , who had had it done months ago, and he went and got back half of his $900.00.
But the trick is, THEY WILL NOT VOLUNTEER THIS INFO. You have to ask if there is a bulletin out on it. Thank gosh the ex- Chevy mechanic that was going to do the job knew enough to check for me first.
Mr. Goodwrench strikes again!!
Doesn't say much for a service department that would not let someone know this info, just go ahead and charge you out the butt for it. Then they probably turn it in to GM and get the cash in their pocket!!
This experience really soured me on GM, and my Chevy is history. No more in my yard !!
But the trick is, THEY WILL NOT VOLUNTEER THIS INFO. You have to ask if there is a bulletin out on it. Thank gosh the ex- Chevy mechanic that was going to do the job knew enough to check for me first.
Mr. Goodwrench strikes again!!
Doesn't say much for a service department that would not let someone know this info, just go ahead and charge you out the butt for it. Then they probably turn it in to GM and get the cash in their pocket!!
This experience really soured me on GM, and my Chevy is history. No more in my yard !!
s2002h69
02-27-2006, 02:47 PM
Hello,
After several discussions with GM, they made their final offer to me - 30% of the repair costs. I told them I wanted at least 50% and they said no, so I guess their final offer is as final as it's going to get.
Anyway, I contacted Midas, they did the intial pressure tests, and I asked them if they would match the 30% discount if I gave them the business. They said that they would, which made me feel better because I do not trust a GM dealership repairing my vehicle. So, we'll see how the repairs go.
Later
After several discussions with GM, they made their final offer to me - 30% of the repair costs. I told them I wanted at least 50% and they said no, so I guess their final offer is as final as it's going to get.
Anyway, I contacted Midas, they did the intial pressure tests, and I asked them if they would match the 30% discount if I gave them the business. They said that they would, which made me feel better because I do not trust a GM dealership repairing my vehicle. So, we'll see how the repairs go.
Later
Huney1
02-27-2006, 03:08 PM
"Anyway, I contacted Midas, they did the intial pressure tests, and I asked them if they would match the 30% discount if I gave them the business. They said that they would, which made me feel better because I do not trust a GM dealership repairing my vehicle. So, we'll see how the repairs go."
I applaude your decision to let Midas do it. I asked my local Chevy service writer about gasket replacement and he did not say one thing about GM sharing the cost. Don't want to jump to conclusions and maybe he doesn't know about GM helping with the repair bill. Anyway, glad you have a satisfactory resolution to the problem and hereafter have many, many trouble free miles.
I applaude your decision to let Midas do it. I asked my local Chevy service writer about gasket replacement and he did not say one thing about GM sharing the cost. Don't want to jump to conclusions and maybe he doesn't know about GM helping with the repair bill. Anyway, glad you have a satisfactory resolution to the problem and hereafter have many, many trouble free miles.
hones
03-12-2006, 03:25 PM
I have 2000 Venture which developed a coolant leak; I never saw a puddle in the driveway nor smelled antifreeze burning on a hot engine surface. I took it into a mechanic and he pressure tested the system and said a freeze plug between the engine and transmission is leaking. He said it will cost $1500-2000 to pull the engine/transmission, acid flush the system, replace all the freeze plugs, etc. He said the coolant was contaminated which caused the system to corrode. Since the freeze plugs are the thinnest metal in the engine, that is where the leak developed first. Has anyone had any experience with this?
Huney1
03-13-2006, 10:59 AM
"Since the freeze plugs are the thinnest metal in the engine, that is where the leak developed first. Has anyone had any experience with this?"
Go to the auto parts store and get can of bars leak, read the directions and make sure you shake it up REAL good. If anything will stop the leak bars leak will and most of the time it works the first time and if not add another half can. Important you add it direct into the radiator then fill the radiator and expansion tank, put the radiator cap on and immediately drive it ten miles or so. Make sure your pressure cap is good becuase it makes a pressure in the cooling system and the bars leak little particles get sucked into the leak and stop it up. Thousands of cars & ttucks running around with leaking heaed gasket or block or intake gasket leak weith bars leak in the engine and they don't leak a drop. And don't let anyone tell you it clogs your radiator, cooling system or heater, because it does not.
Hey, for three measley bucks it's worth a shot. I know . . .. <Grin> :wink:
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=38
"Original Stop LeakBar's Leaks has millions of tiny particles to permanently seal leak in plastic, aluminum and metal radiators, heater cores, blocks, heads, gaskets and FREEZE PLUGS."
I use the Original, seems to work fine for me and a lot of other folks I know.
Go to the auto parts store and get can of bars leak, read the directions and make sure you shake it up REAL good. If anything will stop the leak bars leak will and most of the time it works the first time and if not add another half can. Important you add it direct into the radiator then fill the radiator and expansion tank, put the radiator cap on and immediately drive it ten miles or so. Make sure your pressure cap is good becuase it makes a pressure in the cooling system and the bars leak little particles get sucked into the leak and stop it up. Thousands of cars & ttucks running around with leaking heaed gasket or block or intake gasket leak weith bars leak in the engine and they don't leak a drop. And don't let anyone tell you it clogs your radiator, cooling system or heater, because it does not.
Hey, for three measley bucks it's worth a shot. I know . . .. <Grin> :wink:
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=38
"Original Stop LeakBar's Leaks has millions of tiny particles to permanently seal leak in plastic, aluminum and metal radiators, heater cores, blocks, heads, gaskets and FREEZE PLUGS."
I use the Original, seems to work fine for me and a lot of other folks I know.
hones
03-13-2006, 12:18 PM
Thanks - I have heard of Bars Leaks but the mechanic I went to said he recommended a GM product made out of vegitable material. I bought a packet of nine (quarter sized brown tablets about 1/2" thick) from the Chevy dealer for $8. I have not tried them yet. Have you had any experience with this product?
Thanks,
Hones
Thanks,
Hones
Huney1
03-13-2006, 02:05 PM
"Have you had any experience with this product?Thanks, Hones"
No Sir, I haven't. I've been using Bars Leak since I was a kid driving a 54 Ford Y block V8, and that was many years ago, so until bars leak quits working for me I'll hang with it. We use to use regular old ground black pepper and it would get in the leak and swell up and stop it up. Black peper is nothing more than tree bark and gets in the leaks then swells up. Sounds like what the GM man sold you is something similar to black pepper. I like bars leak because you don't have to dump your anti freeze, just drain or siphon a quart out of the radiator then dump in the bars leak and boogie on down the road. I've got an extra can of bars leak in the van and if it goes to leaking I'll dump in another can. What the heck, at three bucks a can it's a heck of a lot cheaper then a new manifold gasket. Now, when and if I ever see evidence of water in the oil, yes, I'll bite the bullet and have the new manifold gasket installed. But as long as the leak is external dripping on the garage floor, . . . . shoot fire Hones, I'll buy a whole case of Bars Leak and do the Bars Leak Boogie. :smokin:
No Sir, I haven't. I've been using Bars Leak since I was a kid driving a 54 Ford Y block V8, and that was many years ago, so until bars leak quits working for me I'll hang with it. We use to use regular old ground black pepper and it would get in the leak and swell up and stop it up. Black peper is nothing more than tree bark and gets in the leaks then swells up. Sounds like what the GM man sold you is something similar to black pepper. I like bars leak because you don't have to dump your anti freeze, just drain or siphon a quart out of the radiator then dump in the bars leak and boogie on down the road. I've got an extra can of bars leak in the van and if it goes to leaking I'll dump in another can. What the heck, at three bucks a can it's a heck of a lot cheaper then a new manifold gasket. Now, when and if I ever see evidence of water in the oil, yes, I'll bite the bullet and have the new manifold gasket installed. But as long as the leak is external dripping on the garage floor, . . . . shoot fire Hones, I'll buy a whole case of Bars Leak and do the Bars Leak Boogie. :smokin:
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