Urethane Bushings

Has anyone installed Prothane control arm bushing set? I order the set but it did not come with a diagram of how to assemble the new bushings. It looks like there are 3 or 4 parts that replace the stock bushing but it seem very lose compared to the original bushing fit.

I called their tech support and they said they would email the instructions but they never followed through and sent them.

If you mean loose in that you didn't need to pound the hell out of them to get them back in, then you might be OK. If they are loose enough to simply fall out on their own, I'd double check with Prothane (as you have tried).

Typically, each bushing is made in 3 pieces. The bushing itself is 2, and a steel sleeve inside the bushing. Sometimes the bushing is split in the middle, sometimes there's just a small ring on the end.

If you go to the Prothane website (http://www.prothane.com) and look at the products page, then Spring and Shackles or COntrol Arms, you'll see the bushing and a small exploded diagram.

The bushing kit for the upper and lower control arms come with over 30 parts for the 8 connection points. The main piece that looks like the original bushing is so loose that it just falls out. The other pieces must make up a working bushing when assembled in the right order but without a diagram it is impossible to know just how the parts go together. I looked at the diagram on the website you referred to but it does not give the detail needed to assemble the parts.

Sorry. The Prothane site doesn't have a very good picture. I found that Quadratec is a dealer. They have a slightly better picture but still doesn't show 30 pieces. Looks more like 16. (2 piece bushing X 8 ends).


Not sure what to suggest other than call or email them again.

I receive the instruction from Prothane. There are extra parts in the kit that you do not use depending on the year. I have to remove the OEM rubber from inside the metal shell and reuse it for the new bushing.

Any ideas on how to do this?

I thinking of placing it on my drill press and drilling a hole through the rubber to loosen it up enough to slide it out.

I not sure what you're referring to. The old bushings come out of the control arm and you repalce them with the new ones. There should be no part of the old bushing reused.

Or are you asking how to get the old bushings out of the control arm end? If that's it, I suggest any way you can without damaging the control arm. Use some penetrating oil to help loosen things up. Sometimes, you can even grab the ends of the bushing with big channelock pliers and twist them loose.

The OEM bushings are rubber encased in a metal shelve. The instructions are to remove the rubber from the metal shelve and replace it with the new ploy bushing.

Seems like an odd way to do this but who am I to argue with the manufacturer's instuctions. ;)

If the sleeves don't want to slide off easily, I'd probably try the same approach. Use a drill press and a drill to drill a series of holes through the rubber to get the rubber to collapse.

Since noone else has chimed in on this thread, looks like you're ready to go.

I did get the lower control arm done. I used a drill press to drill holes through the rubber but the bushing would not come out, so I used a blown torch to heat up the metal shelve and it came right out.

I started on the upper control arms but I can not get the bolt out on the axle side, It has one of those torx heads on it. It's very hard to get good leverage. I sprayed it the nut with some liquid wrench and let it sit over night. I hope I can break it free today.

If someone has any ideas let me know.

I got the torx bolt off the upper control arm. It turned out the reason I could not get it to break free was someone had striped the threads at one point and cake it with lock tight to hold what threads were left. I heat the bolt up, the lock tight melted and I could unscrew it by hand it was so loose.

I got the torx bolt off the upper control arm. It turned out the reason I could not get it to break free was someone had striped the threads at one point and cake it with lock tight to hold what threads were left. I heat the bolt up, the lock tight melted and I could unscrew it by hand it was so loose.

Ive always had good luck with a product called PB Blaster. Its much better than WD40 at loosening rusted and stuck fasteners.
Let us know if youre happy with those poly bushings. Im betting your ride gets harsh and squeaky. That polyurathane is alot stiffer than rubber and will last along time but is alot less flexible than rubber. This is why there arent many poly fan in the off road community. Theres been more than a couple broken control arm mounts due to stiff poly bushings. Hope you dont have problems after all the trouble you are going to.

That's for the updates Shelby. Keep us informed on your progress.

OK here is my next issue.

I have replaced the bushings in the last control arm. The upper passager side. I have the bolt back in the frame side. I can not get the holes to line up on the axle side. I have the bolt half way through from the engie side going to the tire. The hold is about 1/2 open. I have set jeep back on it wheels, raise one side, then the other, jump up and down on it. I can not get it to line up.

Any ideas on how to get them to line up?

Can you get a strong screwdriver or even a allen wrench in from the other end to act as a "pry bar"? Is the axle too far forward or aft for the hole to line up? I'm assuming nothing else is binding.

If you can borrow one, you might try a spring compressor on the coil spring. Relieving the pressure may make it easier to twist the axle into alignment.