Hub Assembly

The information I received previously about the ignition module was great. My husband was able to replace the ignition module in about 4 hours or so and the blazer is now running (and starting) great.

Now I have another question. We need to replace our rotor and need to know the size of the axle nut on the front hub assembly of our 1997 s-10 blazer. It is a 4-wheel drive. Does anybody have any idea? My husband checked the Harness book and it does not say.

Any Ideas?

The nut is 36mm, but you won't need to remove it to replace the rotor. The rotor goes over it.

I don't know, but if you have to buy the socket park right in front of the tool shop door and ask the salesman. They'll either look and know the answer or grab out a hand full of sockets and try them.

Either way you get the right size. Don't forget that it's metric.

:screwy: Okay, I have a stupid question but what holds the rotor on if not the nut? I don't doubt you but I can't remember seeing anything else there that would hold the rotor on but that could very well be my inexperience.

Please help......

The rotor slides over the wheel studs, so basically the wheel and the lug nuts hold it in place.

Here's a picture:
http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/9218/comentigoacdelcocatalogservlet.gif

Sorry to be so dense. Thank you for your help. This my husband's (and my) job tomorrow. :banghead: Ought to be fun.

You're welcome. It's not that hard of a job, you guys should be fine.

You'll need to remove the caliper bracket (mount) in order to get the rotor off. If I remember correctly you'll need an 18mm wrench.

BTW It's recommended to replace both sides at the same time.

:thumbsup: Thanks for the great info. My husband has changed the brake pads before so we didn't have any problems with the caliper. It was funny though because after I told him what you had said about not needing to remove the hub nut, he still thought he needed to because he couldn't get the rotor off. So he removed one of the nuts with a socket we rented from Autozone ($15.00) and then popped the rotor right off by tapping on it and realized that the nut didn't have to come off after all. The rotor was stuck to what was behind it with rust. Oh well, maybe someday he will listen to me. (NOT!!!) At least it is done now. We also greased everything so I think we are good to go yet again. Thanks again for all your input. It was a great help.

On second thought, I have yet another question.... Does anyone have any idea how to get the fuel filter bracket off? My husband can get the line separated but the end with the bracket is a problem. We had the same problem with my old cavalier. We were told at NAPA that it was easy to separate but for us, nothing is easy. Any good advice on how to get this separated?

I don't understand why people rent sockets for $15.00, when they can own the same size for $20.00 or less.
Sears, and so many tool stores would have had it in stock, and it doesn't have to say Snap On.

Another good place for tools is pawn shops, although they're probably 3/4 stolen :banghead:

:thumbsup: Thanks for the great info. My husband has changed the brake pads before so we didn't have any problems with the caliper. It was funny though because after I told him what you had said about not needing to remove the hub nut, he still thought he needed to because he couldn't get the rotor off. So he removed one of the nuts with a socket we rented from Autozone ($15.00) and then popped the rotor right off by tapping on it and realized that the nut didn't have to come off after all. The rotor was stuck to what was behind it with rust. Oh well, maybe someday he will listen to me. (NOT!!!) At least it is done now. We also greased everything so I think we are good to go yet again. Thanks again for all your input. It was a great help.

On second thought, I have yet another question.... Does anyone have any idea how to get the fuel filter bracket off? My husband can get the line separated but the end with the bracket is a problem. We had the same problem with my old cavalier. We were told at NAPA that it was easy to separate but for us, nothing is easy. Any good advice on how to get this separated?
You're welcome, I'm glad to hear that you got it taken care of.

I know you said bracket, but it sounds like you are describing the quick connect fitting on the fuel line. Is that what you mean or are you talking about the mounting bracket that supports the filter?

I don't understand why people rent sockets for $15.00, when they can own the same size for $20.00 or less.
Sears, and so many tool stores would have had it in stock, and it doesn't have to say Snap On.

Another good place for tools is pawn shops, although they're probably 3/4 stolen :banghead:

"rented" was probably the wrong term. Autozone has a loan-a-tool program. You pay for one of their tools, and when you're finished they give the money back.

Actually you are right it was the loan a tool program which means in the end we didn't pay anything for a tool that we may never need. That was the nice part of it.

And yes, it has got to be the connect that you are referring to and not the bracket. Any quick release hints?

It's been a while since the last time that I did one, so I can't say with 100% certainty, but I'm pretty sure that there are two tabs that you squeeze while you pull it off.

That's exactly right. Push the line as far as it will go in the direction of the filter, depress both tabs, and while they are depressed, pull the line off of the filter, the line should slide right off. If it doesn't, you don't have the tabs pressed in far enough.

Oh well, maybe someday he will listen to me. (NOT!!!) At least it is done now.

Sounds like ya need a new husband!!! :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: