replace head gasket then bottom end goes???
DJorgie76
01-16-2006, 01:58 PM
I think I am going to have a blown head gasket repaired. The mechanic I use told me that once you do the head gasket, you run a very good risk at the bottom end of the engine going next. At first this doesn't sound right. I had a 95 Cougar that blew a head gasket. A few months after getting it repaired the bottom end went. Is this also true for 3.1 Luminas and why?
Thanks!!
Doug
Thanks!!
Doug
96Lumina3point1
01-16-2006, 04:19 PM
Hi Doug,
I can't answer your question, per se, but I may be able to help...
First of all, the Chevy Lumina 3.1 engines are NOTORIOUS for "blowing" the intake manifold gasket (the one between the intake mani and the block). Many people confuse this for a blown head gasket (totally different part of the engine). Sometimes the blown intake manifold gaskets act like the head gaskets in terms of leaking coolant, etc. and it is important that they be fixed, but all it requires is removal of the top of the engine, not including the heads.
With that said, I would find out FOR SURE whether or not this is a head gasket or the intake manifold gasket. Then pursue it from there. If it is the intake manifold gasket, then I wouldn't worry about "losing the bottom end" (not quite sure what that means, exactly).
Just keep in mind, the 3.1 is notorious for losing the intake manifold gaskets.
Good luck!
~Annah
I can't answer your question, per se, but I may be able to help...
First of all, the Chevy Lumina 3.1 engines are NOTORIOUS for "blowing" the intake manifold gasket (the one between the intake mani and the block). Many people confuse this for a blown head gasket (totally different part of the engine). Sometimes the blown intake manifold gaskets act like the head gaskets in terms of leaking coolant, etc. and it is important that they be fixed, but all it requires is removal of the top of the engine, not including the heads.
With that said, I would find out FOR SURE whether or not this is a head gasket or the intake manifold gasket. Then pursue it from there. If it is the intake manifold gasket, then I wouldn't worry about "losing the bottom end" (not quite sure what that means, exactly).
Just keep in mind, the 3.1 is notorious for losing the intake manifold gaskets.
Good luck!
~Annah
Schurkey
01-16-2006, 05:28 PM
This is EASY!
Lots of guys use abrasive wheels to remove stuck gaskets. Mechanics used to call 'em "Cookies", 'cause they were brown and round and basically cookie-shaped. Think of a brown Scotchbrite pad on a holder that's spun by a drill or die grinder.
They work fabulous for removing stuck gaskets. Really!
They also work fabulous for removing aluminum--so when you're done, the casting isn't flat anymore. Wherever you had a stuck bit of gasket, you've now got a low spot in the aluminum. It takes more work to low-spot cast iron, but it can be done by someone with sufficient patience.
Because they're abrasive, the iron, aluminum and abrasive media that is torn loose from the cookie will get into the engine. And the abrasive is hell on bearings. And, since the abrasive is so small as to be more-or-less invisible, good luck cleaning it all out.
Tell your mechanic that your engine is a no-abrasive zone--no cookies allowed.
There are some other things that affect ring seal you should be aware of, too. Perhaps the engine has run a LONG time with weak cylinders. Restoring proper valve seal with a valve job will dramatically improve the power output of those cylinders. If the rings are full of soot and crap, they may not hold the cylinder pressure. Can lead to excessive blow-by. "Probably" not an issue in your case.
Another factor: Tightening head bolts WILL distort the cylinders. The cylinders will eventually wear nearly round, and the rings kinda wear to match. If the head is re-installed with a different torque (usually tighter) the cylinders become non-round again, but the rings are too worn to compensate. Leads to oil burning and blow-by--lack of power. This isn't a huge problem, but it has the possibility if not the probablility of biting your butt.
Lots of guys use abrasive wheels to remove stuck gaskets. Mechanics used to call 'em "Cookies", 'cause they were brown and round and basically cookie-shaped. Think of a brown Scotchbrite pad on a holder that's spun by a drill or die grinder.
They work fabulous for removing stuck gaskets. Really!
They also work fabulous for removing aluminum--so when you're done, the casting isn't flat anymore. Wherever you had a stuck bit of gasket, you've now got a low spot in the aluminum. It takes more work to low-spot cast iron, but it can be done by someone with sufficient patience.
Because they're abrasive, the iron, aluminum and abrasive media that is torn loose from the cookie will get into the engine. And the abrasive is hell on bearings. And, since the abrasive is so small as to be more-or-less invisible, good luck cleaning it all out.
Tell your mechanic that your engine is a no-abrasive zone--no cookies allowed.
There are some other things that affect ring seal you should be aware of, too. Perhaps the engine has run a LONG time with weak cylinders. Restoring proper valve seal with a valve job will dramatically improve the power output of those cylinders. If the rings are full of soot and crap, they may not hold the cylinder pressure. Can lead to excessive blow-by. "Probably" not an issue in your case.
Another factor: Tightening head bolts WILL distort the cylinders. The cylinders will eventually wear nearly round, and the rings kinda wear to match. If the head is re-installed with a different torque (usually tighter) the cylinders become non-round again, but the rings are too worn to compensate. Leads to oil burning and blow-by--lack of power. This isn't a huge problem, but it has the possibility if not the probablility of biting your butt.
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