Humbrol paint question
SeaBee
01-16-2006, 04:47 AM
I was only able to lay my hands on some of the Humbrol range recently. Specifically the buffing metallic paint (much like Testors metalizers).
The quality of paint was shocking. Maybe I am doing something wrong. The metallic black was extremely thick and full of clumps that you simply could not get thinned. The steel was much better, but could not be painted (by hand) very easily - where second brush-stroke overlapped the first, you lifted the previous. This was at least thinner, so I can try an a/b in future for it.
However, when I buffed it, the result (except for some unevenness) was stunning! Now the big question: can you clearcoat this without losing the metal finish? Will clearcoat help preserve the finish or destry it? I know touching it bare-handed did not do the finish much good, but just re-buffed and it was fine.
Also, any suggestions on application of the paint? Do you thin it even more or how do you guys handle it? Esp the metallic black - that's really a mess to work with at this stage. To worsten it, I doubted the availability of it for future and bought two tins of each - both tins looks the same...
The quality of paint was shocking. Maybe I am doing something wrong. The metallic black was extremely thick and full of clumps that you simply could not get thinned. The steel was much better, but could not be painted (by hand) very easily - where second brush-stroke overlapped the first, you lifted the previous. This was at least thinner, so I can try an a/b in future for it.
However, when I buffed it, the result (except for some unevenness) was stunning! Now the big question: can you clearcoat this without losing the metal finish? Will clearcoat help preserve the finish or destry it? I know touching it bare-handed did not do the finish much good, but just re-buffed and it was fine.
Also, any suggestions on application of the paint? Do you thin it even more or how do you guys handle it? Esp the metallic black - that's really a mess to work with at this stage. To worsten it, I doubted the availability of it for future and bought two tins of each - both tins looks the same...
DetroitMuscle
01-16-2006, 06:58 AM
Clear coat is just that, a clear coat, think of cars they are 2 part paints now(base/clear) SO, clear caot will be fine and you wont loose any of the metallix due to it being impregnanted into the basecoat prior.
freakmech
01-16-2006, 07:19 AM
actually, i would have to say that over time, the clear coat will take away from the metallic finish. this is true for any type buffed metallizing paints such as Testors or Model Masters. clear over the Metallic black on the other hand would be fine.
Mogster
01-16-2006, 07:26 AM
Clear coat is just that, a clear coat, think of cars they are 2 part paints now(base/clear) SO, clear caot will be fine and you wont loose any of the metallix due to it being impregnanted into the basecoat prior.
Take care here - I used clear laquer over some Humbrol paint (enamel) and had bad reactions between to two. I guess Humbrol clear should be OK.
Take care here - I used clear laquer over some Humbrol paint (enamel) and had bad reactions between to two. I guess Humbrol clear should be OK.
gpz900ra7
01-16-2006, 08:01 AM
Hi SeaBee, I've used Humbrol Metalcote quite a lot in the past and found that it is much easier and better to airbrush this paint rather than trying to brush it on, the metallic black you speak of is not the "buffable" type of paint, it's just a normal enamel paint. Humbrol as far as I can remember only produced 6 different shades in the Metalcote range of paints, they have since dropped 2 of them, probably not very good sellers. My personal favourites out of them are the Gunmetal and the Polished Steel. The Polished Steel is great for painting brake discs on both cars and bikes and the Gunmetal is good for exhausts. I know the armour modellers out there love this kind of paint, especially when they need to paint the tracks on tanks and small machine guns. When I airbrush it on I dont usually need to thin it down at all as it is very thin straight out of the tin, all it needs is a good shake and maybe a stir to get it mixed up ready for spraying. As a footnote to this post, I wouldn't recommend putting a clearcoat over this type of paint as it might just react and destroy all of your hard work.:2cents:
Murray Kish
01-16-2006, 08:43 AM
I've found that Humbrol paints are some of the best I've used. But there's a few things I've noticed:
1. They need to be stirred really well. I have one of those little Badger paint mixers and it stirs em up nicely. After that, you should have little problem brushing them.
2. The metal coats and metalics just seem to work better sprayed, rather than brushed. They'll work either way, but spray really turns out nice. I thin with lacquer thinner.
3. They take FOREVER to dry. Way longer than any other paint I've used. I use a dehydrator with them now....
4. I hate those little tins. Keep the edges of the lid and can clean, because if they don't seal well, then the paints can dry up. Wish they'd go to jars...
Hope they don't let you down. They're probably my favorite paint (even considering their faults)....
Murray
1. They need to be stirred really well. I have one of those little Badger paint mixers and it stirs em up nicely. After that, you should have little problem brushing them.
2. The metal coats and metalics just seem to work better sprayed, rather than brushed. They'll work either way, but spray really turns out nice. I thin with lacquer thinner.
3. They take FOREVER to dry. Way longer than any other paint I've used. I use a dehydrator with them now....
4. I hate those little tins. Keep the edges of the lid and can clean, because if they don't seal well, then the paints can dry up. Wish they'd go to jars...
Hope they don't let you down. They're probably my favorite paint (even considering their faults)....
Murray
SeaBee
01-17-2006, 08:03 AM
Thanks for all the contributions...
gpz900ra: You have the right thing in mind! Yes, it is called the metalcote range. I was incorrect in calling one metallic black, very dark and in that range - may very well be gunmetal. When lightly buffed, I once tried using it to simulate CF, but the paint came out extremely uneven... You live, you learn...
The polished steel is what I used just now, there is a silver (or aluminium?) as well in my stockpile which works much better, as well as matt aluminium.
Won't clearcoat it then, thanks!
gpz900ra: You have the right thing in mind! Yes, it is called the metalcote range. I was incorrect in calling one metallic black, very dark and in that range - may very well be gunmetal. When lightly buffed, I once tried using it to simulate CF, but the paint came out extremely uneven... You live, you learn...
The polished steel is what I used just now, there is a silver (or aluminium?) as well in my stockpile which works much better, as well as matt aluminium.
Won't clearcoat it then, thanks!
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