4WD stabilizer bar required or optional?

I just got an '87 S-10 Blazer. It's a 4WD, and the passenger side stabilizer bar bracket is gone and the threads where it attaches are stripped out.

I'm new to 4WD vehicles (I'm a Volkswagen man), so I'm wondering if this is an optional item if the truck is only driven on the street, never offroad.

The previous owner just had the bar strapped in place and drove it like that for a while, and I want to know if I can safely remove it entirely. Repair will require replacing the A-arm which looks like a PITA.

Thanks for any advice!!

http://tinypic.com/k9j1uu.jpg

Welcome to the forum. Great pic. Don't remove it. It is there for handling & stability. One thing to always remember while working on a vehicle: The factory does not install ANY part on a vehicle that isn't absolutely necessary. Don't remove it. An option to replacing the lower control arm would be to have the end bracket and insulator welded in the proper position. You can always remove the other brackets to get the bar out if it needs servicing in the future.

Hello, I'm just curious why it seem like everyone is buying the late 80's model of the blazer?? They must have a hell of a resale value on them or lack of one...

Why do you say you have to replace the A-Arm?

Just go get a new set of poly stabilizer bar end links and install them.

Cheap and takes an hour tops for both sides.

Why do you say you have to replace the A-Arm?
The threaded holes in the A-arm are stripped out, so there's no way to attach the bracket for the bar. Although welding was mentioned, which may be a possibility...

Aftermarket end links is threaded on both ends IT might be your cure being it doesnt need the threaded holes in the lower arm to be secured.



I would try and rethread the holes with a tap before anything else, the poly endlinks will make your street ride more enjoyable as well.

Rick, I dont know I bought an early 90's blazer.

Aftermarket end links is threaded on both ends IT might be your cure being it doesnt need the threaded holes in the lower arm to be secured.Thanks DetroitMuscle, that gave me an idea. If I drill out the buggered theads, it looks like I can stick two fingers into the outboard opening in the A-arm and slip a nut in there. Then I can use a longer bolt through a junkyard bracket and thread it into the hidden nut. I might have to saw an end wrench in half to hold the nut while I tighten the bolt but it will be cheaper than a new sway bar kit (found one online for $149).

Any reason that would not work? Will standard hardware store 8.8 bolts take the stress? And of course I would use a nylon locknut and/or a lockwasher.

Thanks DetroitMuscle, that gave me an idea. If I drill out the buggered theads, it looks like I can stick two fingers into the outboard opening in the A-arm and slip a nut in there. Then I can use a longer bolt through a junkyard bracket and thread it into the hidden nut. I might have to saw an end wrench in half to hold the nut while I tighten the bolt but it will be cheaper than a new sway bar kit (found one online for $149).

Any reason that would not work? Will standard hardware store 8.8 bolts take the stress? And of course I would use a nylon locknut and/or a lockwasher.

You do NOT require threaded holes in the A-arms for bar end links. Whoever told you that is wrong.

The threads on the ends of the link bar are for the nuts, not for screwing into the A-arm.

YOU DRILLED OUT THE THREADS?? JUST STOP WHAT YOU ARE DOING, YOU ARE DESTROYING A PERFECT A-ARM.

Seriously, back up a bit and look at the part before you aimlessly start modifying something for nothing.

You need to do more research before you start into the work bud and for the love of christ go get the right parts instead of ghettoing it. The endlinks cost 20 bucks for both sides in one package.

This is just getting scary.

It's not the end link he is dealing with. That design doesn't use them. The mount that BOLTS to the A-arm that holds the stabilizer is what's missing. Not your typical end link kit. Check out the image. I had the same problem on an 89 Blazer. I ended up puting bolts through it to get it in the correct position, clamp it, and then mig weld the bracket on to the A-arm, remove the clamp and bolts, then install the bushing and the bar.

Rather than 8.8 metric, I would use 3/8" diameter grade 8 bolts, washers, lock washers, and nuts. (Grade 8 is stronger than 8.8 metric.) With nylock nuts, after they're exposed to the elements, the nylon tends to rot out and the nuts can loosen up. Other than that, it should work fine for you.

He uses the standard link kit just like everyone else does.

No threading is required. All he needs to do is install the link kit which is what is missing in that photo.

All you do is attach the link kit to the stabilizer bar and then use a jack to push it up so you can put the bushing and nut through the hole in the a-arm.

Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

You get the proper link kit from the local parts store, not throw some mismatch thing together with left over bits and pieces.

Here is the link kit.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=78&ptset=A&searchfor=Sway+Bar+Link+Kit

http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/5366/linkage0015tg.jpg

Except his will probably be going through a hole in the lower a-arm like my gf's Cavalier was. So easy to replace.

The bolt goes through the hole and the poly bushings are what keeeps it in the hole, not the threading which doesn't exist.

87 4x4 does not use that style. The threads that are buggered are in nuts that are welded inside the control arm. He is missing the bracket that holds the bushing. There are no threads in the bracket, it bolts to the control arm. Here is the link to what style goes on that vehicle:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=77&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Sway%20Bar%20Bushing

87 4x4 does not use that style. The threads that are buggered are in nuts that are welded inside the control arm. He is missing the bracket that holds the bushing. There are no threads in the bracket, it bolts to the control arm. Here is the link to what style goes on that vehicle:

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=77&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Sway%20Bar%20Bushing

That is the sway bar bushing which is completely different than the end link kit.

Bushings hold the bar onto the chasis whereas the link kit I provided earlier is for the link kit which attaches the sway bar to the lower control arm.

I am sorry, but the link I gave previously was the listings for a 1987 S-10 Blazer and is indeed correct.

And no, stabilizer bars are not welded to the A-Arm.

No sway bar is welded to the A arm, it has end links.

You can get the end link kit at autozone for under 20 bucks i beleive or 30.

I agree, no link is welded to the control arm, the bracket that holds the end of the stabilizer is bolted to the control arm and the bushing is held in place by the bracket. Read the two postings for parts america, one states 2 wheel drive, (end links). The other is for 4 wheel drive, (bushings). Look at the original picture posted in this thread, there is no hole in the stabilizer for an end link to go through. 4 wheel drive did not use end links in 87.

Another angle would be better to tell for sure, they sell them for that year they must fit that year and chassis.

I agree, no link is welded to the control arm, the bracket that holds the end of the stabilizer is bolted to the control arm. Read the two postings for parts america, one states 2 wheel drive, the other is for 4 wheel drive. Look at the picture posted, there is no hole for end link to go through. 4 wheel drive did not use end links in 87.

I think on that year the sway bar end link went right through the bottom control arm.

You can see the rusty hole right near the strap buckle in the first photo.

Rather than 8.8 metric, Oops, that's my Volkswagen bias leaking out. ;)

Well this is certainly sparked more discussion than I expected. Thanks for the links to the Shucks sway bar kits, they might yet come in handy.

Here's a shot of the good drivers side (which I just noticed the bolts are backing out on):
http://tinypic.com/kba7oh.jpg

And here's a blurry picture of the two holes where the passenger bracket would bolt on:
http://tinypic.com/kba979.jpg




So... I'll let the debate rage on some more before doing anything. Don't worry I haven't drilled anything yet. :)

Thanks again folks!

Whoa, that doesn't look right.

Those are bushings, not end links.

Did someone ghetto his truck some time in the past?

Yes, it was General Motors that did that! Starting in 1983 and ending in 1994 on the 4x4's. Then they "re-ghettoed" it again in 1995 and started using end links. :)

Tylernt, the picture you show of the drivers side is the correct way the sway bar is mounted on 1st generation S10's. Old master is correct in what he says. I have replaced the bushings on my '91 truck before and it can be difficult. Using bolts, lock washers, and nuts to attach the bracket to the control arm should work or retap the holes and use a larger bolt. When I replaced the bushings on my truck, the sway bar sprung outward about an inch when I removed the bracket. I had to use a large ratcheting tie down like is used to secure loads to a tractor/trailer to pull the bar back in to where I could get it mounted back to the truck. If any one has an easier way I would like to know. Hopefully you will not have that problem.

Sorry for the confusion.