Brake light

I recently had my brakes, drums and master cylinder replaced, but the stupid brake light still won't go off. Is there anything else I should look at/fix?

There are two things that can turn on the red "BRAKE" warning light:

#1 The parking brake: Pull the release handle on the dash out while simultaneously pulling up on the parking brake pedal with your other hand. If there is a parking brake cable stuck, it will not allow the linkage under the dash to turn the light off.

#2 The proportioning valve or sometimes called centering valve, may not be seated in the center, or "off" position. Inside the valve there is a switch that turns the light on in the event of a hydraulic failure in either the front or the rear system. Any time the hydraulic system is bled, care must be taken to center the valve upon completion of the bleeding process. If the light is on due to this valve not being centered, you will notice a low brake pedal when applying the brakes, indicating one of the two hydraulic systems is inoperative. The system must be bled properly to turn off the warning light.

I probably should add the other day when I applied the brakes the pedal went pretty close to the floor and the light blinked off and on a couple times. Is this a symptom of a hydralic problem? My mechanic still has my truck. If it is, I'll pass this info on to him.

I probably should add the other day when I applied the brakes the pedal went pretty close to the floor and the light blinked off and on a couple times. Is this a symptom of a hydralic problem? My mechanic still has my truck. If it is, I'll pass this info on to him.

Most definitely that's the problem! More than likely the master cylinder was improperly "bench bled". This allowed air into the system and the valve is unable to center itself, thus turning on the light indicating a failure. There is a specific bleeding procedure to remove all of the air from the system, and that procedure must be followed, to the letter. (Especially if it is equipped with ABS brakes.)

Most definitely that's the problem! More than likely the master cylinder was improperly "bench bled". This allowed air into the system and the valve is unable to center itself, thus turning on the light indicating a failure. There is a specific bleeding procedure to remove all of the air from the system, and that procedure must be followed, to the letter. (Especially if it is equipped with ABS brakes.)

Thanks! I'll tell him.

Get him to fix what he messed up.

It is his responsibility to get you on the road safely.

either a bad prop valve, or a stuck break level sencer, either one would cause your light (assuming you checked the e break)