Pop, hush, cut off

So I was driving my 87' Camaro Rs 6 cylinder automatic down the street when I noticed a pop every once and a while and I thought it might be a pot hole until I realized there were no pot holes on my street and then it became more constant. Almost every other stop sign when I came off with a little pressure the pop would come back.

The pop sounded like it was coming from the drivers side under the car and the check engine light would come on for a few seconds and turn right off before the pop.

I wanted to get the codes out of the car but I don't have a scanner and do not know how to do it without one, I know it has to do with a paper clip or something but I don't know what to connect to what.

Then I was at another stop sign and instead of popping the car just cut off with no warning, no weird gauge readings, no flicker of the lights, nothing. It just turned off. I eased it to the side of the road put it into park and it turned right back on with no hesitation.

Any advice would be appreciated in helping me solve this problem. Thanks.

Q: How can I display the error codes from a Service Engine Light?

A: If your car does not have the 12 pin DLC connector, you may not be able to manually "flash" your trouble codes. The language "may be possible" appears to suggest that this method should work with most, if not all, 12 pin DLC equipped cars.

THE CONNECTOR


-----------------------
| 1 2 3 4 5 6 |
| 7 8 9 10 11 12 |
-----------------------


DISPLAYING THE TROUBLE CODES
Run a wire/hairpin from Pin 6 to Pin 12 with the ignition off (although on later cars it should be from Pin 5 to Pin 6), then turning the ignition to the on position without starting the engine will flash the "Service Engine Soon" light in the following sequence: flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause flash, pause, flash-flash, long pause Following this "12" code repeating three times will come any trouble codes stored, flashing each of them three times. If you do not see the "12" flash three times, your diagnostic circuit is defective.
Some vehicles will display stored trouble codes, then "12" again, followed by energizing "most system controlled relays." The fuel pump relay will not energize. The idle air control valve will fully extend to enable checking minimum idle speed.

CLEARING THE TROUBLE CODES
Turn the keyswitch to the off position. To clear any trouble codes, disconnect the power feed for 30 seconds. If this is done at the battery, and your car stereo is equipped and programmed with a four digit pin code, you may have to re-enter that as well to use your stereo again. A better place to remove power is at the fuse.

TROUBLE CODES


12. No reference pulses to Electronic Control Module (ECM).
13. Oxygen sensor signal stays lean during warm engine cruise
14. High temperature indicated at engine coolant temp. sensor
15. Low temperature indicated at engine coolant temp. sensor
16. High battery voltage OR
Direct inition system open or shorted to ground
17. RPM signal problem
18-20. N/A
21. High voltage at throttle positon sensor
22. Low voltage at throttle positon sensor OR
Fuel cutoff relay circuit open or shorted to ground
23. Low temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Throttle position sensor error
24. Circuit fault in vehicle speed sensor
25. High temperature at manifold air temperature sensor OR
Vacuum switching valve circuit open or shorted to ground OR
High voltage at ATS sensor
26. Fault in quad driver module
27. Fault in 2nd gear switch
28. Fault in 3rd gear switch
29. Fault in 4th gear switch
30. N/A
31. Low voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fuel injector OR
Park or neutral switch OR
CAM diagnostic OR
Governor malfunction OR
Wastegate overboost OR
Wastegate eletrical signal open or shorted to ground
32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve
33. High voltage (low vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)
34. Low voltage (high vacuum) at mass air flow sensor (or MAP sensor)
35. Idle speed can not be set to desired RPM
36. Burn off at mass air flow sensor OR
Problem in transmission shift OR
Fault in direct ignition system OR
Missing pulses in electronic spark timing signal
37. N/A
38. Fault in torque converter clutch brake switch
39. Fault in torque converter clutch circuit
40. N/A
41. Fault at cam sensor OR
Cylinder select error OR
Tach input error
42. Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR
Fault at direct ignition system OR
Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit
43. Low voltage at electronic spark timing circuit
44. Oxygen sensor lean
45. Oxygen sensor rich
46. Fault at vehicle anti-theft sytem OR
Fault at power steering switch
47. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM)
48. Misfire
49. Vacuum leak
50. N/A
51. PROM error
52. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM) -
Missing fuel calpac missing OR
Analog to digital converter error OR
Fault at quad driver module OR
Low voltage at oil temperature sensor
53. High voltage at battery OR
High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Voltage reference error OR
Problem at vehicle anti-theft system
54. Low voltage at fuel pump OR
Low voltage at Fuel pump relay OR
Output failure at quad driver module
55. Problem at Electronic Control Module (ECM) -
ECM failure OR
Serial bus error OR
Fuel lean malfunction
56. Low coolant or corrosivity OR
Fault in port throttle system vacuum sensor
57. N/A
58. Problem at vehicle anti-theft system
59-60. N/A
61. Oxygen sensor degraded OR
Port throttle system error OR
Cruise control problems
62. Gear switch input diagnostics OR
High voltage at oil temperature sensor OR
Fault in cruise control- vacuum solenoid circuit
63. High voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Fault at right oxygen sensor
64. Low voltage at manifold absolute pressure sensor OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Right oxygen sensor lean
65. Failure at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR
Faulure at injector peak/hold diagnostic OR
Right oxygen sensor rich OR
Fault at cruise control position sensor
66. Internal reset of Electronic Control Module (ECM)
67. Fault at cruise control switch
68. Fault at cruise control switch
69. Fault at air conditioner pressure switch
70-87. N/A
88. Internal reset of Electronic Control Module (ECM)

This is straight from thirdgen.org, just follow the instructions and post back with what ya get.

Now I realized that the "pop" I heard may be backfiring in the engine. And being I only had the car for less than 2 months I don't know how well the other owner may have taken care of the car.

I think the timing is off which would cause the car to backfire and even cut off depending on the severity of it being off. So I'll look at the timing and post my results.

Tried pulling out the codes, all I got was a code 12 and a 61 which I think has to do with the oxygen sensor, i think it may be time for a new one n e wayz.
I didn't check the timing yet because I can't find my timing light (it was crap n e way so I'll just get a betta 1 and when I do that I'll probably find my old 1)
I also think the fuel injectors may b going out, would that cause backfiring?
Well after I replace the oxygen sensor, fuel injectors, and check the timing I'll post my results, is there anything else I should do?

All help will be appreciated.

Might wanna go ahead and do a full tune up: plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I usually replace the coil too, but only bout 1 every couple years. I would go with accel products, they work real well.

Might wanna go ahead and do a full tune up: plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I usually replace the coil too, but only bout 1 every couple years. I would go with accel products, they work real well.

Thanks for the help. Why not do a tune up if I'm going to already be half way there right? I just hate changing the plugs on this car. Such a small engine but the plugs are a pain to get to (considering I don't have the best tools available)
I was looking at some Accel products earlier, I had originally picked Bosch but they seemed like they didn't last as long as I expected them to so I going to try something new.
When I got this car it looked like nothing had been changed since it was manufactured in 87' so changing the coil is probably a good idea.
Thanks again X

had a simuler problem found the module in the dist was bad i.e cracked and was shorting out .

Well I actually have no idea how to get to the distributer on my car. I can do all of those other things but only because I've done them before on my friends car, with his help. He's out of town and I don't know what to do. I got a Haynes manuel but its not as clear as Chilton and all the stores around me do not have a Chilton manuel for my car.
I want to do this myself because I want to know for future reference, plus I don't want to have to pay for labor. If anyone could help me it would be really appreciated.

I would recommend starting with the easier stuff...you know that the oxygen sensor is bad, do that first. Then do the plugs, wires, cap and roter.
I would recommend getting wires with a lifetime warentee because every time I check/change my spark plugs, the little metal peace that hooks them to the plugs ripout of atleast two of them, both on the drivers side of the engine...So, as luck would have it, everytime I change my sparkplugs, I also get the wires replaced for free, which is kind of nice. :grinyes:
The cap is held down by two screws that are affixed to the cap, so dont worry about them falling out when you are loosening them, they wont. You can use a philips head screwdriver or I think the head of the screws are 7/32 or something like that.
Be careful not to mix up the wires, do them one at a time.
Then check the timeing, I beleave it should be 10 degrees before top dead center. If the white line seems to be irratic and seems to move around, then its time to do the timeing chain which isnt as bad as you would think, expecially since we have so much more space under the hood that the camaros with the V8 :icon16: Let me know what you find.

its been a long time but I finally got a new timing chain and timing light.

now i pulled a code 33 and 34.

should i try cleaning the maf sensor.
how could i have high and low voltage to my MAF?

its been a long time but I finally got a new timing chain and timing light.

now i pulled a code 33 and 34.

should i try cleaning the maf sensor.
how could i have high and low voltage to my MAF?
Replace both the MAF power and MAF burn off relays first. Disconnect the battery to clear the codes and try driving it again to see if the codes return.

I tried that.
Code 34 returned right away.

Code 33 came back today.

Where are the relays located?

I'd rather replace those instead of the MAF relays?