95 Accord EGR problem. HELP!!!

Hello, my first post!!!

I have a 95 Accord EX 4-cyl VTEC auto with 108,000 miles. This problem has been going on for 2+ year and I can't get a machanic to fix it.

My check engine light comes one when engine is cold and after car has been driven about 2 miles and has warmed up. If I stop and shut the car off, then turn it back on, the check engine light will not come back on. I pulled the blue two-pin and jumped it and got a code of “12”, so I replaced the EGR valve, however the check engine light still reacts in the exact same way. I am also only getting about 27 mpg. Any ideas??? Could it just be the Vacuum Solenoid, or clogged ports??? Thanks so much!

I am by no means a honda expert...recently purchased a 1995 Accord V6 with egr problems. I have been doing a lot of research and it suggests that Honda had to extend their emissions warranty due to a lawsuit. It extends coverage period 14 years from manufactured date and up to 150,000 miles. Both of which you seem to qualify for.

Do some searches online for accord extended emissions warranty for more information. Your dealer should take care of your egr problems at no cost to you.

I am by no means a honda expert...recently purchased a 1995 Accord V6 with egr problems. I have been doing a lot of research and it suggests that Honda had to extend their emissions warranty due to a lawsuit. It extends coverage period 14 years from manufactured date and up to 150,000 miles. Both of which you seem to qualify for.

Do some searches online for accord extended emissions warranty for more information. Your dealer should take care of your egr problems at no cost to you.
WOW, that is a new one for me, I will see what I can find, let me know if you, or anyone else, has any other ideas. Thanks so much

The EGR ports are probably clogged also. There is a cover on the 4cyl. engines. If you look on the intake manifold just under the injectors you will see a plate thats held in with 4-5 10 mm blots. Thats the egr passegase. They are probably clogged.

The innjectors and rail need to come out in order to get to them. make sure to replce the injector seals and the plate gasket

The EGR ports are probably clogged also. There is a cover on the 4cyl. engines. If you look on the intake manifold just under the injectors you will see a plate thats held in with 4-5 10 mm blots. Thats the egr passegase. They are probably clogged.

The innjectors and rail need to come out in order to get to them. make sure to replce the injector seals and the plate gasket
I am not the most mechanical person, but I can follow directions. Do you know of a step by step list that I could follow? Or is it as simple as removing the intake manifold, injectors, and rail? Thanks so much.

The manifold stays in the car. the rail and injectors come out. If you unbolt the 10 mm nuts from the rail you can leave the top part of the injector in the rail and carefully remove the injector out of the manifold. this way you won't disturb the upper seals and all that needs to be replaced is the lower ones.

Once the rail/injectors are out of the way the plate has 4-5 10mm bolts holding it down. Take the plate off and turn it upside down. You will see all the carbon packed in it. Clean it out. Look were the plate goes and you will see 4 round holes. they are more than likely packed solid. Take a few drill bits and start small. Using your hand you should be able to drill the bits in the carbon until you are all the way through. Just work your way up in size untill its all gone. then put everything back.

lorunner,I have always just used a coat hanger straightened out with some carb cleaner to clean the holes out(after removing the plate).I haven,t seen them bad enough for a drill.I reuse the gasket also.

Check out this link:

http://www.honda-acura.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2466016&postcount=6

Sam

A coat hanger or a pick will work but thats just sloppy. A drill is more percise and if its the exact size of the hole you know you got it all.

Thanks so much guys, I will try it. So is this like a 1-2 hour job then?

I don,t think over half an hour.Yours is one of the easiest hondas to clean 90 to 93 had no cover so you had to do some drilling.

I would disconnect the battery( there is going to be some fuel).
Take the nuts off the fuel rail and lift up on the rail(wear some glasses).
Try to leave the injectors in the top half of the rail.I do unplug them,for room.
Then remove the nut for the plate and the plate.
There is going to be a metal gasket,clean it off and the inside of the plate.
Then take something,( I use a coat hanger end,) and clean the holes in the manifold.
After cleaning ,reinstall the plate and gasket.
I like to put some grease on the rubber grommets and put them in the head and then install the injectors.
Of course after you are done,Check for leaks.
I very seldom have to replace any gaskets or o-rings ,but it sure can,t hurt.
Best of luck with it.I agree with lorunner also ,this is just the way I do them.

lorunner, I just reread about the drill bits.I see you said use them by "hand".That is a good ideal.I thought at first you were saying use a drill to clean them.I need to be more careful with my reading.

Thanks, I will give it a shot this weekend if I can get into my dad's heated garage.

On a final note, do any of you know where I can find pictures of this? I will try and take some too and post them here for future reference for others.

Well 3 of my ports were fully plugged. Got it all taken care of. It even idels smoother. However, 5 miles down the road my check engine light came right back on, same code 12... Should I now try and replace the EGR vacuum solinode? Or any other ideas? Thanks so much for all your help.

As I understand the EGR valve code. The ECU sends a signal to the EGR valve to open. A sensor on the valve reads if the valve has opened and sends the information to the ECU. If the valve has not opened to the position the ECU has told it to open to, you get an code 12 ECL. The only way you know that the ports are clogged is by failing the NOX test or rough idleing during that time when the EGR is open. Maybe lorunner can expand on my understanding of the way it works.

If you are still getting a code 12, then the valve is not opening because of a vaccum valve/solenoid problem, an EGR valve problem or the sensor that is attached to the EGR problem. You can pull a vaccum on the EGR valve and measure resistances to see if the sensor and valve is OK and then go from there. Keep us advised of what you find.

If you are still getting a code 12, then the valve is not opening because of a vaccum valve/solenoid problem, an EGR valve problem or the sensor that is attached to the EGR problem. You can pull a vaccum on the EGR valve and measure resistances to see if the sensor and valve is OK and then go from there. Keep us advised of what you find.
Thanks, do I just go to AutoZone and get a device to measure the vacuum? I did find a used vacuum control solenoid for $50, they had a EGR position sensor too if that could also be the problem.

It could be either the solenoid valve, hose or the EGR valve, position sensor. But then you purchased an EGR valve, so thats probably not it. I would not buy parts until you do some testing. You will need a vacuum gage and maybe a T- connection to hook into the vaccum line going to the EGR. The EGR is supposed to open between 1800-2500 RPM with a hot engine and the wheels turning. First I would check the EGR valve to ensure it holds vacuum. Disconnect the hose to the valve and pull 8" of vacuum on the valve. It should open and the vacuum should not bleed off. With the engine running, it should stall. Now connect the T in line with the vacuum hose going to the valve and put the gage in the vacuum circuit. If you have enough tubing you can put the gage into the passenger compartment. Get the car hot and drive it around at about 1800-2500 RPM. You should see the vacuum indicate on the gage. If it does, the EGR solenoid is opening. The only thing left is the position sensor on top of the EGR valve which is not indicating the EGR valve is opening or the wiring going from the EGR valve to the ECU. I gather you have reset the ECU, right?

I will try the vacuum test thing.
I haven't reset the ECU since I cleaned the ports, but don't think it needs to be done because my check engine light didn't come on right away after I did the procedure. It took a few miles before it came back on. Right????

Alright, I got some pictures I want to put up that may help others doing this, how do I put up pictures?

Got the problem fixed, it was the EGR vacuum solinode. $20 at the junk yard. :)

Thanks, do I just go to AutoZone and get a device to measure the vacuum? I did find a used vacuum control solenoid for $50, they had a EGR position sensor too if that could also be the problem.

I believe you should have 7 in. hg. after the solenoid. When you get a code say" EGR " it is the whole system including the circuts. You can check the position sensor with a dvom and a vacuum pump. as for the solenoid you need a vac gauge tee'ed into the vac line in between the EGR valve and the solenoid. then run the car up to 2500 RPM and see if you get that 7 in. hg.