1999 Buick Regal Random Stalling????
Franchise
01-13-2006, 04:06 AM
I own a 99' Regal with 74k miles. 4 Dr GS Supercharged Sedan 3.8. It will randomly stall for no apparent reason. I pull over to the side of the road place car in park and it restarts. I'm not sure if this is just coincidence, but the majority of the time it is when the fuel level is at 1/4 of less and driving at slow speeds of say 20-30mph. I have checked and/or replaced all filters. The dealer has replaced the ignition control module and 3 coils that go with it. The dealer has also removed "carbon build up"? To date nothing has changed the random stalling. There is no pattern and it happens about once per weak.
After reading a few posts here I'm wondering if it could be either the crank shaft sensor or ignition switch? Also when people here say check for error code... how would I do that? Go to the dealer or can I do it myself?
Can anybody offer help with suggestions, ideas, personal experience.
Another less serious problem I'm wondering about is my readout for the air-conditioning no longer aluminates. Everything works I just can't see the temp, fan position, outside temp, ect. The dealer said they'd have to change out the hole unit for about $400. Anybody have any less expensive ideas to fix this or similar experience?
Thanks in advance,
After reading a few posts here I'm wondering if it could be either the crank shaft sensor or ignition switch? Also when people here say check for error code... how would I do that? Go to the dealer or can I do it myself?
Can anybody offer help with suggestions, ideas, personal experience.
Another less serious problem I'm wondering about is my readout for the air-conditioning no longer aluminates. Everything works I just can't see the temp, fan position, outside temp, ect. The dealer said they'd have to change out the hole unit for about $400. Anybody have any less expensive ideas to fix this or similar experience?
Thanks in advance,
BNaylor
01-13-2006, 09:13 AM
It's either ignition or fuel. Based on your symptoms the crankshaft position sensor is the most likely suspect. The dealer can check it out with a Tech II diagnostics machine but there is not guarantee they will be able to determine the CKPS is bad. It may not trigger any DTC error codes or SES light.
The other thing to check is to make sure fuel system pressure is OK to rule out a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Also, the GS has a two speed fuel pump with a speed control relay and fuel pump resistor.
On the climate control problem the LCD driver within the head unit sounds bad which means replacement of the climate control unit.
If ignition switch there are normally other indications like no DRL, headlight problems, HVAC blower motor speeds, cruise control, no radio power, etc. but it is a possibility.
The other thing to check is to make sure fuel system pressure is OK to rule out a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Also, the GS has a two speed fuel pump with a speed control relay and fuel pump resistor.
On the climate control problem the LCD driver within the head unit sounds bad which means replacement of the climate control unit.
If ignition switch there are normally other indications like no DRL, headlight problems, HVAC blower motor speeds, cruise control, no radio power, etc. but it is a possibility.
Franchise
01-13-2006, 08:42 PM
It's either ignition or fuel. Based on your symptoms the crankshaft position sensor is the most likely suspect. The dealer can check it out with a Tech II diagnostics machine but there is not guarantee they will be able to determine the CKPS is bad. It may not trigger any DTC error codes or SES light.
The other thing to check is to make sure fuel system pressure is OK to rule out a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Also, the GS has a two speed fuel pump with a speed control relay and fuel pump resistor.
On the climate control problem the LCD driver within the head unit sounds bad which means replacement of the climate control unit.
If ignition switch there are normally other indications like no DRL, headlight problems, HVAC blower motor speeds, cruise control, no radio power, etc. but it is a possibility.
Thank you very much for your response. I'll get the fuel pressure checked then have the crankshaft position sensor checked. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Thanks Again,
The other thing to check is to make sure fuel system pressure is OK to rule out a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Also, the GS has a two speed fuel pump with a speed control relay and fuel pump resistor.
On the climate control problem the LCD driver within the head unit sounds bad which means replacement of the climate control unit.
If ignition switch there are normally other indications like no DRL, headlight problems, HVAC blower motor speeds, cruise control, no radio power, etc. but it is a possibility.
Thank you very much for your response. I'll get the fuel pressure checked then have the crankshaft position sensor checked. I'll keep you posted on my progress.
Thanks Again,
Franchise
01-13-2006, 09:36 PM
It's either ignition or fuel. Based on your symptoms the crankshaft position sensor is the most likely suspect. The dealer can check it out with a Tech II diagnostics machine but there is not guarantee they will be able to determine the CKPS is bad. It may not trigger any DTC error codes or SES light.
The other thing to check is to make sure fuel system pressure is OK to rule out a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Also, the GS has a two speed fuel pump with a speed control relay and fuel pump resistor.
On the climate control problem the LCD driver within the head unit sounds bad which means replacement of the climate control unit.
If ignition switch there are normally other indications like no DRL, headlight problems, HVAC blower motor speeds, cruise control, no radio power, etc. but it is a possibility.
Any idea what it would cost to have the crankshaft position sensor replaced?
Thanks
The other thing to check is to make sure fuel system pressure is OK to rule out a fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. Also, the GS has a two speed fuel pump with a speed control relay and fuel pump resistor.
On the climate control problem the LCD driver within the head unit sounds bad which means replacement of the climate control unit.
If ignition switch there are normally other indications like no DRL, headlight problems, HVAC blower motor speeds, cruise control, no radio power, etc. but it is a possibility.
Any idea what it would cost to have the crankshaft position sensor replaced?
Thanks
BNaylor
01-14-2006, 12:02 AM
Any idea what it would cost to have the crankshaft position sensor replaced?
Thanks
The sensor runs around $50.00. General automotive shops charge around 2 - 3 hours labor. Ballpark figure is $200.00. Here's the DIY procedure with pics at link below. The pulley puller requires special bolts which will not come on a rented puller. The procedure is for a Grand Prix but all GM '97 and up "W" bodies to include Regal with Series II 3800 engine is the same R&R procedure.
http://mykidz.net/GTP/CrankPosSensor.shtml
Thanks
The sensor runs around $50.00. General automotive shops charge around 2 - 3 hours labor. Ballpark figure is $200.00. Here's the DIY procedure with pics at link below. The pulley puller requires special bolts which will not come on a rented puller. The procedure is for a Grand Prix but all GM '97 and up "W" bodies to include Regal with Series II 3800 engine is the same R&R procedure.
http://mykidz.net/GTP/CrankPosSensor.shtml
maxwedge
01-14-2006, 10:00 AM
The sensor runs around $50.00. General automotive shops charge around 2 - 3 hours labor. Ballpark figure is $200.00. Here's the DIY procedure with pics at link below. The pulley puller requires special bolts which will not come on a rented puller. The procedure is for a Grand Prix but all GM '97 and up "W" bodies to include Regal with Series II 3800 engine is the same R&R procedure.
http://mykidz.net/GTP/CrankPosSensor.shtml
Just to add to BNaylor's excellent info, the bolts are 1/4 x 28 by 3" long, use washers on the bolts also.
http://mykidz.net/GTP/CrankPosSensor.shtml
Just to add to BNaylor's excellent info, the bolts are 1/4 x 28 by 3" long, use washers on the bolts also.
Franchise
01-16-2006, 01:39 AM
Due to a my heavy work load I have not been able to make the suggested repairs yet. Today while at a light the car shut off again, and I was able to restart it again without any problem. This was the first time it ever shut off while at a complete stop (also ¾ tank). Does this provoke any other insight or opinions.
PS … BNaylor's, thanks so much for your response. I plan to use the directions you linked. Also I guess I’ll have my climate control unit replaced.
PS … BNaylor's, thanks so much for your response. I plan to use the directions you linked. Also I guess I’ll have my climate control unit replaced.
BNaylor
01-16-2006, 09:26 AM
Due to a my heavy work load I have not been able to make the suggested repairs yet. Today while at a light the car shut off again, and I was able to restart it again without any problem. This was the first time it ever shut off while at a complete stop (also ¾ tank). Does this provoke any other insight or opinions.
PS … BNaylor's, thanks so much for your response. I plan to use the directions you linked. Also I guess I’ll have my climate control unit replaced.
It is still one of the symptoms of a CKPS. But just to be sure since it is a GS I'd recommend running a fuel pressure test. Basically the GS has a two speed fuel pump. There is a fuel pump speed control relay and fuel pump resistor that works with the speed control relay to control fuel pump speed. If the relay does not energize due to a bad resistor it will exhibit similar symptoms whereby the engine will stall. The pressure can can checked at the Schrader valve located on the fuel pressure regulator located at the front fuel injector rail. The resistor is a common problem on '97 - '99 Regal GS or other L67 equipped GM "W" body cars. Normally pressure is tested with car in park and not moving, however, depending on when the problem develops it may be necessary to connect the gauge and route it to the hood cowl area, and tape it to one if the wipers while test driving. At least that can be ruled out before you decide to replace the crank position sensor. For example when the engine stalls the fuel pressure is always present as long as ignition is on. If fuel pressure passes it makes the CKPS more probable than not. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
PS … BNaylor's, thanks so much for your response. I plan to use the directions you linked. Also I guess I’ll have my climate control unit replaced.
It is still one of the symptoms of a CKPS. But just to be sure since it is a GS I'd recommend running a fuel pressure test. Basically the GS has a two speed fuel pump. There is a fuel pump speed control relay and fuel pump resistor that works with the speed control relay to control fuel pump speed. If the relay does not energize due to a bad resistor it will exhibit similar symptoms whereby the engine will stall. The pressure can can checked at the Schrader valve located on the fuel pressure regulator located at the front fuel injector rail. The resistor is a common problem on '97 - '99 Regal GS or other L67 equipped GM "W" body cars. Normally pressure is tested with car in park and not moving, however, depending on when the problem develops it may be necessary to connect the gauge and route it to the hood cowl area, and tape it to one if the wipers while test driving. At least that can be ruled out before you decide to replace the crank position sensor. For example when the engine stalls the fuel pressure is always present as long as ignition is on. If fuel pressure passes it makes the CKPS more probable than not. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
ragman60
01-17-2006, 07:07 AM
Have had the same problem with my 1999 GL with 67,00 miles. Slow down to turn and it stops, every light on the dash lights up. Replaced rusted coil and wires first. Checked battery terminals for corrosion to get proper and consistant voltage. Replaced cam sensor. Continued with same intermittent stalling. Error code on the computer showed problem with the Anti-Lock-Braking System, WHOA! In the shop now having the computer replaced. Hope this is the answer. Hope one of the other suggestions corrects your problem and it's not your computer.
ragman60
ragman60
BNaylor
01-17-2006, 10:37 AM
Have had the same problem with my 1999 GL with 67,00 miles. Slow down to turn and it stops, every light on the dash lights up. Replaced rusted coil and wires first. Checked battery terminals for corrosion to get proper and consistant voltage. Replaced cam sensor. Continued with same intermittent stalling. Error code on the computer showed problem with the Anti-Lock-Braking System, WHOA! In the shop now having the computer replaced. Hope this is the answer. Hope one of the other suggestions corrects your problem and it's not your computer.
ragman60
Thanks for the info Ragman60. Nice to know. Good luck and hopefully you get your problem resolved.
ragman60
Thanks for the info Ragman60. Nice to know. Good luck and hopefully you get your problem resolved.
rlh41com
02-11-2006, 10:23 PM
I own a 99' Regal with 74k miles. 4 Dr GS Supercharged Sedan 3.8. It will randomly stall for no apparent reason. I pull over to the side of the road place car in park and it restarts. I'm not sure if this is just coincidence, but the majority of the time it is when the fuel level is at 1/4 of less and driving at slow speeds of say 20-30mph. I have checked and/or replaced all filters. The dealer has replaced the ignition control module and 3 coils that go with it. The dealer has also removed "carbon build up"? To date nothing has changed the random stalling. There is no pattern and it happens about once per weak.
After reading a few posts here I'm wondering if it could be either the crank shaft sensor or ignition switch? Also when people here say check for error code... how would I do that? Go to the dealer or can I do it myself?
Can anybody offer help with suggestions, ideas, personal experience.
Another less serious problem I'm wondering about is my readout for the air-conditioning no longer aluminates. Everything works I just can't see the temp, fan position, outside temp, ect. The dealer said they'd have to change out the hole unit for about $400. Anybody have any less expensive ideas to fix this or similar experience?
Thanks in advance,
In regards to the illumination of the climate control display, I had the same problem on my 98 regal gs & repaired it myself at no cost. I removed the climate control module from the dash, carefully disassembled the module & visually inspected the circuit board for faulty solder joints, found 1 exceptionally bad & several other flaky looking joints, I touched them up with a small soldering iron using liquid flux to just reflow the existing solder without gobbing tons more solder on it, cleaned the board with alcohol reassembled & reinstalled, to my accepting surprise, it worked & has worked since, this was a few years ago. Hope this helps you. If you need more specific instructions I would be glad to try & explain in more detail.
Also my regal also has the same intermittent stalling problem, but I am still working on that issue.I will let you know if I resolve this. good luck
After reading a few posts here I'm wondering if it could be either the crank shaft sensor or ignition switch? Also when people here say check for error code... how would I do that? Go to the dealer or can I do it myself?
Can anybody offer help with suggestions, ideas, personal experience.
Another less serious problem I'm wondering about is my readout for the air-conditioning no longer aluminates. Everything works I just can't see the temp, fan position, outside temp, ect. The dealer said they'd have to change out the hole unit for about $400. Anybody have any less expensive ideas to fix this or similar experience?
Thanks in advance,
In regards to the illumination of the climate control display, I had the same problem on my 98 regal gs & repaired it myself at no cost. I removed the climate control module from the dash, carefully disassembled the module & visually inspected the circuit board for faulty solder joints, found 1 exceptionally bad & several other flaky looking joints, I touched them up with a small soldering iron using liquid flux to just reflow the existing solder without gobbing tons more solder on it, cleaned the board with alcohol reassembled & reinstalled, to my accepting surprise, it worked & has worked since, this was a few years ago. Hope this helps you. If you need more specific instructions I would be glad to try & explain in more detail.
Also my regal also has the same intermittent stalling problem, but I am still working on that issue.I will let you know if I resolve this. good luck
rlh41com
02-11-2006, 10:25 PM
In regards to the illumination of the climate control display, I had the same problem on my 98 regal gs & repaired it myself at no cost. I removed the climate control module from the dash, carefully disassembled the module & visually inspected the circuit board for faulty solder joints, found 1 exceptionally bad & several other flaky looking joints, I touched them up with a small soldering iron using liquid flux to just reflow the existing solder without gobbing tons more solder on it, cleaned the board with alcohol reassembled & reinstalled, to my accepting surprise, it worked & has worked since, this was a few years ago. Hope this helps you. If you need more specific instructions I would be glad to try & explain in more detail.
Also my regal also has the same intermittent stalling problem, but I am still working on that issue.I will let you know if I resolve this. good luck
Also my regal also has the same intermittent stalling problem, but I am still working on that issue.I will let you know if I resolve this. good luck
trinidog
04-29-2006, 04:59 PM
I have a 99 Buick Regal. Check Engine light came on and car had white smoke coming out the back and died. Water got into the "plastic" manifold, rod broke and put a hole in the block; got used engine and now the car stalls randomly at slow speeds. The speedometer goes from 0-120 in 1 second, I put it in neutral & re-start it; has never not started. Mechanic(s) takes readings on it and have replaced sensors from my previous engine and the last one he ordered & put on was the speed sensor and now it's worse (bad part?). He is stumped as to what the cause is and says he can keep replacing parts until it is fixed. Any advice would be appreciated.
BNaylor
04-30-2006, 10:28 AM
I have a 99 Buick Regal. Check Engine light came on and car had white smoke coming out the back and died. Water got into the "plastic" manifold, rod broke and put a hole in the block; got used engine and now the car stalls randomly at slow speeds. The speedometer goes from 0-120 in 1 second, I put it in neutral & re-start it; has never not started. Mechanic(s) takes readings on it and have replaced sensors from my previous engine and the last one he ordered & put on was the speed sensor and now it's worse (bad part?). He is stumped as to what the cause is and says he can keep replacing parts until it is fixed. Any advice would be appreciated.
Welcome to AF.
If you currently have a SES/CEL light what are the odb-ii DTC error codes?
It would be helpful to post the codes.
Also since you had an engine swap make sure all of the grounds are good at the engine/tranny grounding stud.
BTW - Was the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) replaced?
Welcome to AF.
If you currently have a SES/CEL light what are the odb-ii DTC error codes?
It would be helpful to post the codes.
Also since you had an engine swap make sure all of the grounds are good at the engine/tranny grounding stud.
BTW - Was the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) replaced?
irbf
05-07-2006, 11:27 AM
I am having the same exact issue with a 2000 GS. The engine dies at low speed and all the idiot lights all start flashing at once...sort of comical...bail out! bail out!
Much thanks to Bnaylor for the info and link. The photos for changing the sensor are great!
Thanks!
Much thanks to Bnaylor for the info and link. The photos for changing the sensor are great!
Thanks!
irbf
05-09-2006, 08:42 PM
My 2000 Buick Regal GS is having the same issue. I drive it one day and it is fine. The next day I find myself in the middle of an intersection and it won't do anything. Yesterday, when trying to troubleshoot the problem, it would not quit on me. But finally, as I watched it run in the garage, the parking lights blinked off and then came back on...a clue! This convinced me that it had to be a connection problem. I inspected the ground at the motor and it was secure. The ground at the frame near the battery was not so good. GM did not include a star washer to insure a good ground connection and there was paint beneath the lug. I cleaned the lug and removed the paint to insure a good ground. I replaced the battery with a new one. The positive lead was closely inspected and cleaned. I replaced the male lug that screws into the battery...it was galled. The battery was an absolute pain in the ss to replace!
Drove the car to work today (about 26 miles) and it ran perfect...ahhh problem solved! Not so! Upon leaving work it would not start. The following symptoms:
- idiot lights all blink and no crank
- finally engine decided to start
- shut off engine to see if restart possible
- no restart possible and now idiot lights don't blink, just go out when turing ignition to crank (no crank occurs)
- voltage at battery is 12.7V and does not drop when ignition key turned
- wife shows up to pick me up, try to start, it starts! but the wierd thing is that some of the idiot lights remain illuminated...not all
- shut off motor...no restart possible (no crank)
I will have it towed to Buick garage tomorrow...I give up. For the help of others I will update this story with what they find which I fear is going to hurt.:frown:
Drove the car to work today (about 26 miles) and it ran perfect...ahhh problem solved! Not so! Upon leaving work it would not start. The following symptoms:
- idiot lights all blink and no crank
- finally engine decided to start
- shut off engine to see if restart possible
- no restart possible and now idiot lights don't blink, just go out when turing ignition to crank (no crank occurs)
- voltage at battery is 12.7V and does not drop when ignition key turned
- wife shows up to pick me up, try to start, it starts! but the wierd thing is that some of the idiot lights remain illuminated...not all
- shut off motor...no restart possible (no crank)
I will have it towed to Buick garage tomorrow...I give up. For the help of others I will update this story with what they find which I fear is going to hurt.:frown:
BNaylor
05-09-2006, 09:22 PM
My 2000 Buick Regal GS is having the same issue. I drive it one day and it is fine. The next day I find myself in the middle of an intersection and it won't do anything. Yesterday, when trying to troubleshoot the problem, it would not quit on me. But finally, as I watched it run in the garage, the parking lights blinked off and then came back on...a clue! This convinced me that it had to be a connection problem. I inspected the ground at the motor and it was secure. The ground at the frame near the battery was not so good. GM did not include a star washer to insure a good ground connection and there was paint beneath the lug. I cleaned the lug and removed the paint to insure a good ground. I replaced the battery with a new one. The positive lead was closely inspected and cleaned. I replaced the male lug that screws into the battery...it was galled. The battery was an absolute pain in the ss to replace!
Drove the car to work today (about 26 miles) and it ran perfect...ahhh problem solved! Not so! Upon leaving work it would not start. The following symptoms:
- idiot lights all blink and no crank
- finally engine decided to start
- shut off engine to see if restart possible
- no restart possible and now idiot lights don't blink, just go out when turing ignition to crank (no crank occurs)
- voltage at battery is 12.7V and does not drop when ignition key turned
- wife shows up to pick me up, try to start, it starts! but the wierd thing is that some of the idiot lights remain illuminated...not all
- shut off motor...no restart possible (no crank)
I will have it towed to Buick garage tomorrow...I give up. For the help of others I will update this story with what they find which I fear is going to hurt.:frown:
Yes, please keep us posted. From your symptoms it may be the ignition switch and harness assembly. Good luck!
Drove the car to work today (about 26 miles) and it ran perfect...ahhh problem solved! Not so! Upon leaving work it would not start. The following symptoms:
- idiot lights all blink and no crank
- finally engine decided to start
- shut off engine to see if restart possible
- no restart possible and now idiot lights don't blink, just go out when turing ignition to crank (no crank occurs)
- voltage at battery is 12.7V and does not drop when ignition key turned
- wife shows up to pick me up, try to start, it starts! but the wierd thing is that some of the idiot lights remain illuminated...not all
- shut off motor...no restart possible (no crank)
I will have it towed to Buick garage tomorrow...I give up. For the help of others I will update this story with what they find which I fear is going to hurt.:frown:
Yes, please keep us posted. From your symptoms it may be the ignition switch and harness assembly. Good luck!
ragman60
05-15-2006, 11:52 AM
I had the same problem with my 1999 Regal with 68,500 miles. I tried 3 or 4 different things and finally took it to a dealer and they replaced the computer. The old computer kept giving codes for things that we knew that it had nothing to do with stalling. I could be driving along and all the dash lights would light up like a Christmas Tree and the car would be dead. I would restart and drive it until the next time. This was getting dangerous, so I took it to the dealer. I had been checking the codes at my auto parts store and they were crazy codes. I hope that you find something cheaper, but this was my problem
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