1992 Ford Taurus doesn't turn over at all

I had trouble starting this 3.8 L vehicle, then very quickly it was dead. To the point that when I turned the ignition switch it didn't even click. I tried to charge the battery but the charger meter never changed. Next I tried to jump it with another running vehicle. Still did nothing when I turned the key. This happened 3 months ago and I changed the starter & silenoid. I continued to have intermitant trouble. I have moved it in and out of park and neutral. No change. I checked the fuses inside and out. All ok. Everything else comes on with the key on. I bought a new battery, no change at all. Does anyone else have any suggestions? Or do I have to call a tow truck and get out my wallet?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Kevin

I think you have a connection on your solenoid that just pulls off that comes from your ignition switch. I would pull this off and use a test light while someone turns your ignition switch to the start position and see if you are getting power through that wire. Make sure to properly ground the test light. Or you could probably just run a jumper wire from your positive battery post to that small male terminal on your solenoid, and see if your engine turns over. Hope this helps.

Ok, I ran a wire from the battery down to the male terminal, turned the key, and still no crank or even a click. Do you think a rebuilt starter could go out again so quickly. I installed it & the silinoid in October? Maybe just the silinoid?
Thanks for your help!!
Kevin

When you run the jumper wire from the positive battery post to the small male terminal on the solenoid it should immediately turn over, you don't have to hit the starter switch also. Bad starter? possibly, but I would more suspect a bad battery cable, battery cable connection, or ground connection. Make sure all battery cable connections and ground connections are clean and tight. If you don't find a problem there a test light and an assistant would really help in finding the problem.

I'm having the same problem with a 1992 3.0L. Exactly the same. We took the starter and solenoid out and bench tested both. They're fine. We also checked the wiring for shorts. Again, they're fine. Fuses and battery all okay as well. We may try a new neutral safety switch. That's all I can think of in that loop. Are they any sensors or control pieces that enter the start loop?

to wmamey: I would perform the tests I described in my first response above.(under #2) Lets say the test light doesn't light, but it cranks when you run a small jumper wire from the positive battery post to the small male terminal on the solenoid. Then you can suspect either the neutral starter switch or your ignition switch (in the start position). Do some more simple tests before you start throwing expensive parts at it.

I had a strange situation with my 87 Taurus shortly after I purchased it, new car,, every so often I would go to start it, nothing would happen, lights would go out, then come back on, then the car would start,, did this for a while, no pattern, it would happen at any time, sometimes not for weeks,, turns out the positive battery clamp had a crack in it, almost all the way through, couldn't see it until I removed the clamps,, I had put a wrench to the clamps previously, just checking them ,appeared to be tight, while trying to figure the problem out, my guess was that it either came from the factory that way or it happened shortly after purchase, it was one of those frustrating deals that would never happen while a mechanic was looking at it.

mechhound, re-checked the neutral safety switch and ignition, too, on your suggestion. They still checked out okay. We did exactly the procedures you mentioned and it still didn't make a noise or turn the starter... usually. But sometimes it worked. So we monkeyed around some more. We could run this starter off the same wires when not bolted to the car and it would work every time as would a rebuilt starter we had. But, when you take original starter and turn it by hand it is a bit tougher to turn than the rebuild. So we think that worn, but not completely failed, bearings (or possibly windings) cause the starter to fail (sometimes) when it meets the resistance of the transmission. The rebuilt is in now and it works fine.

Anyway, my son works in a starter rebuild shop. He's going to tear it down. I'll let you know what we find inside.

In Kevin's case, assuming the circuits test out, it could be a faulty rebuilt starter. For every batch of 50-100 starters his shop rebuilds, 1 or 2 starters fail again within 6 months from inadequate rebuild parts supplied by the manufacturer. Of course, in most cases, the rebuild and even the rebuilder's parts are covered, but the headaches for the customer and the rebuilder are not.