taurus wont start injectors dead

1995 taurus 116,000 miles we rebuilt the engine. it ran when we pulled it in to remove the engine. - it was fully rebuilt by an expert engine builder, and installed in the correct manner. when it was started the thing didnt - the coil was bad - just sitting there for a month. we replaced the coil and it started and ran for 45 minuites - it ran fine. when the fan was ready to come on the multifunction relay box in the front on the radiator started buzzing and the engine died. we checked the spark and it was hot and good. we checked the fuel pump it has adequate pressure to the fuel rails. we replaced the multi function box 3 times, it still buzzes. we repalced the ecm computer to no avail. we are getting spark and fuel to the rail and it is in time. it cranks fast enough, but no fuel is getting into the cylinders - we poured gasoline into the intake and it starts and runs until it runs out of gas. the injectors arent working - why???

#1 Check fuel pressure w/ gauge at the injectors.


RJ

#2 make sure there is power to the injectors w/noid light.

[email protected]

RJ

#2 make sure there is power to the injectors w/noid light.

[email protected]

RJ
I dont have a pressure tester but it sprays fuel to the hood when released, I am going to get a tester and a noid light tomorrow thanks for the reply I will give more info tomorrow.

Make sure you didn't pinch a wire or leave a ground disconnected in the process of installing the engine. The power to the the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) runs through the Constant Control Relay Module (CCRM - What I suspect you're referring to as the multi function box). If the relay that's buzzing is the Vpwr to the PCM, the PCM isn't telling the injectors to fire probably. I would expect that it wouldn't fire the coils either, but....

Do you have access to an oscilloscope? You may want to probe the signal at pin 24 of the CCRM with the CCRM connected and the key in the run position and see if it's pulsed or continuous DC. If all you have is a multimeter, check the voltage reading on pin 13 with the meter ground connected to chassis and again with the meter ground connected to pin 15 of the CCRM. If the readings are off by more than half a volt, inspect the grounds closely.

You may want to visit the diagrams of the CCRM at http://www.members.aol.com/Rod2414738/Car_Stuff/CCRM-1.jpg and http://www.members.aol.com/Rod2414738/Car_Stuff/CCRM-2.jpg

-Rod

thanks rod, I will do that we checked all the grounds that we could find and we checked for pinched wires I dont have an ocilliscope but I can get a volt meter.

well we ohmed the injectors and they were fine - we rplaced the injectors (overkill) and put it back together it still didnt work the ccrm still buzzed and it wouldnt start - we gave up for a couple of hours - then a colleague came in and I asked him about it I showed him how it just buzzed then....... it stopped buzzing suddenly............ I tried the starter............... it started ............ it dosent run WELL but the error corrected itself and it now starts and runs.... WHATS GOING ON HERE????

Check the battery voltage and battery connections, as well as the cable condition. Maybe you're running in to a situation where the battery voltage is too low to keep the relay engaged and therefore it's buzzing, but for whatever reason enough current is getting to the starter to turn it over.

I know, seems far fetched, which is exactly what I thought when the first Lincoln LS owner told me their car would crank over, sounded normal, but wouldn't start. They had it towed to the dealer and the dealer said the battery was bad and replaced it. That was all they did, and the problem was gone.

A second LS owner told me a similar story, but took their car to a different dealer in a different state. Now I suspect there may be some validity to it.

And, as you're probably aware, Lincoln's parent company is Ford. Granted the LS is based on Jaguar, but Jag is also owned by Ford.

-Rod

I put a brand new battery before we started to get it running after installing the engine because, I know about battery problems, and we did check all the connections we even cut open the plastic covering around the cable ends - and we did not do anything between the time it wouldnt start and the time it did. I still suspect a ground problem but I dont know where or why it fixed itself. thank you for all your comments it helped direct our thoughts. something strange happened here and I am not ruling out devine intervention............. all I can do now is shake my head and say WHAT THE F......... and go on to the brakes that dont work after sitting 2 years - they were fine when parked 2 years ago. the pedal goes to the floor like the master cylinder is bleeding thru internally or maybe the antilock brake system is screwing up strangely.............. if this car werent so nice looking inside and out I would make a gift to my local junkyard and buy a mustang.

If you pump the brake pedal with the engine off, does it firm up or stay spongy? If that brake fluid has been in there 2 years, it'd time to flush the entire brake system anyway to get the fluid that is likely moisture saturated out.

Good luck, and let us know if you figure out what was causing the no-start!

-Rod

the mystery of the brakes is solved - the rear transverse line rusted in the interim and finally the leak showed itself a simple line change is all that is needed thanks again