Transmission Fluid Change / Cop Chip

I have a 2004 CV LX. Great car. I just passed 30K miles and want to have it services. I am confised about whether the trnasmission fluid need sto be changed. The Ford maintenance schedule says that the fluid can go allthe way to 150K miles but when I called the dealer they say it needs a full flush and change every 30K. I ended p taking to to the mechanic at my local Taxi Depot -- he seemed to know what he was talking aobut and he recommends changing it at 50K and then every 30K thereafter.

Does anybody else have any info/ideas about this?

Another transission-related question. When I shift between "D" and "R" there seems to be a lot of play (i.e. when I put it into "R" it will rroll forward a foot or 2 before the gear engages). Is this normal? The fluid level is fine. Is there anything that can help this.

Final question. I heard that there is a "Cop Chip" that can be installed to boost performance. Does anybody have any experience wth this? Is it worthwhile? How much does it cost? What are the trade-offs?


Thanks for any help.



Mark

I have a 2004 CV LX. Great car. I just passed 30K miles and want to have it services. I am confised about whether the trnasmission fluid need sto be changed. The Ford maintenance schedule says that the fluid can go allthe way to 150K miles but when I called the dealer they say it needs a full flush and change every 30K. I ended p taking to to the mechanic at my local Taxi Depot -- he seemed to know what he was talking aobut and he recommends changing it at 50K and then every 30K thereafter.

I would NEVER go more than 30,000 on ATF. There are about a dozen reason why, and I have posted them all over this site numerous times. Suffice it to say that if ATF gets left in too long, or is burned, you need a new trans.

Another transission-related question. When I shift between "D" and "R" there seems to be a lot of play (i.e. when I put it into "R" it will rroll forward a foot or 2 before the gear engages). Is this normal? The fluid level is fine. Is there anything that can help this.

Is the ATF up to the top of the cross-hatched area on the dipstick when in "Park", engine at idle, on level ground? If not, fill it up. If it is, there may be excessive play in the shift linkage at the base of the steering column connector, or it could just be that the shift cable needs to be adjusted.

Final question. I heard that there is a "Cop Chip" that can be installed to boost performance. Does anybody have any experience wth this? Is it worthwhile? How much does it cost? What are the trade-offs?

There is no shuch thing.

The CVPI models DO have different PCM programming, but there is no "chip" that is used, not at all.

Lonnie at www.blueovalchips.com can hook you up with the best programming money can buy. He uses Superchips Custome Tuning's technology, which is far ahead of the competition.

Yeah I have to second the 30K trans flush. I worked as a Ford Service Advisor. 30K is cheap insurance. Plus you get better performance on fresh fluid. Stonger shifts and tighter operation. HEat kills the fluid too,, investing in an oversize trans cooler is always a great bet.

Actually, the '98 up CV/GM/TC have an EXCELLANT thermally regulated ATF cooler from the factory, I would advise AGAINST installing an additional cooler as it WILL restrict flow.

Thanks, I have a 92 Crown Vic and a 90 Merc Marquis. Did not know that about the 95 and up

you can get a Jet performance chip/module for a Crown Vic for about $220 plug and play, gives about 20-30 horses

Once the fluid gets burned all bets are off, so every 30K miles is a good number. I like changing the trans filter every once in a while too. Make sure they use Mercon V (5) fluid and either drain or power flush the torque converter, not just drain the pan. That's where most of the dirty fluid is. One of the best things Ford ever did on these cars was put a drain plug on the torque converter. They should be able to diagnose that shift engagement problem at the time of service.

I have a 93 CVPI that I change the fluid regularly (~20,000 mi). When I worked for Firestone, I used to change the fluid via flush. Then I heard it is actually better for the car to perform a drain and fill. I usually did this by dropping the pan and refilling the fluid.
Today, I was reading on lincolinsonline.com and he says to drain the fluid in the pan AND the torque converter. I intend to perform the change this way in the future. But, does anyone know how bad the difference is by leaving the fluid in the torque converter and just replacing what is in the pan? Thanks

The torque converter holds 4-6 quarts. That's how much you're diluting your fresh fluid by skipping that step.

One of the best things Ford ever did on these cars was put a drain plug on the torque converter.

well the plug on the converter is gone as of I believe 2003