Hard Starting

Having a hard time starting my 98 neon. Its a 2.0l sohc engine. I have to crank it twice to get it to start. I crank it and it tries to turn over but to get it started I have to completly turn it to off and then crank it again and it always starts on the second turn. It only does it with a cold engine. Mechanic says he has no clue...no sh@* Also when the car has been driven for 20 min or so the service engine light goes out and as soon as I try to crank it (cold engine several hours later) I have the problem above and it comes back on. Please Help. Thanks..

Go to autozone and have the trouble codes pulled.

Go to autozone and have the trouble codes pulled.



I tried that with my wifes van (at advanced,we dont have an auto zone) and man six month later I found the problem on Auto forums and fixed it. Is that my only option? Maybe if the kids working there werent fresh out of diapers it might work. Thanks!!!

Even they can pull codes with the one's they have(One button to pull codes, two to scroll, one to erase). It will tell you what part of your car is acting up..If all else fails, ask for the one who's the ASE certified Parts Counter person, if one still works there!! (I never shop at advance)

Go to autozone and have the trouble codes pulled.Or he can stay at home and do this:
To read any OBD codes, perform the following sequence.

1)Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds.
2)Count the number of times the 'Check Engine' lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

Or he can stay at home and do this:
To read any OBD codes, perform the following sequence.

1)Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds.
2)Count the number of times the 'Check Engine' lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

Oh man that was cool thanks for that but I feel like I was hit by a huge wave. Here are the codes

Code 12
Code 32
Code 27
Code 55

Can you help with these? I have no idea what they are? These codes may not be right I was trying to right and watch. Thanks again.

Code 12 - Battery has been disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (nothing to worry about)
Code 32 - Exhaust gas recirculating (EGR) system failure or solenoid circuit problem (Replace your EGR and the solenoid together...you can try cleaning the EGR Valve, but it doens't always help)
Code 27 - Injector control circuit problem (Check the wiring first...then with the engine running, pull off each injector plug. The one that DOESN'T cause the car to bog is the bad one.)
Code 55 - End of codes.

Hope this helps you out.

Code 12 - Battery has been disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (nothing to worry about)
Code 32 - Exhaust gas recirculating (EGR) system failure or solenoid circuit problem (Replace your EGR and the solenoid together...you can try cleaning the EGR Valve, but it doens't always help)
Code 27 - Injector control circuit problem (Check the wiring first...then with the engine running, pull off each injector plug. The one that DOESN'T cause the car to bog is the bad one.)
Code 55 - End of codes.

Hope this helps you out.



Thank you for the help any idea where to find a egr system i know it has the valve and solenoid I hope the answer is not the dealer. How is the battery wire becoming disconnected. One more thing I have a fuel injector that was chaged out and it doesnt match the other top plugs so we had to ty-rap it to stay on till i can replace the injector but the wire also has a knick in it. could this cause the code 27. It still test 12 ohms across the plug post on the injector it self like the others.which route would you go change the plug or the injector.

I actually just replaced my EGR valve and solenoid and it was cheaper from the dealer. Cost around $80, Autozone and O'Reillys wanted $100, go figure.

The Code 12 just means you have disconneted your battery recently. You have to start your car 50 times after that before it goes away.

If you can get to a junkyard and pull some injectors I would try that if you are trying to save some money. The wire nick may cause intermittent problems, especially if it's damp or wet outside.

Oh and get a new mechanic...