got new prom engine wont start

Alright got my new streetrunner chip, put it in and now it won't start at all. It turns over fine, but no start. I haven't checked for fuel or spark, got dark, but I will in the morining. I know I put it in right, it only goes in one way. And the check engine light is normal, the only code is egr circut malfunction. I have 305 TBI and code 53 says, HIGH VOLTAGE AT BATTERY, what would cause that, ex. the ignition coil? Please help, thanks alot.

Oh yea thanks for the help on the dodge daytona, i figured it out, bad or wrong coolant temp sensor. Kept flooding the engine, so I replaced that along with a new exaust - cat to tips. Thanks for help.

Alright got my new streetrunner chip, put it in and now it won't start at all. It turns over fine, but no start. I haven't checked for fuel or spark, got dark, but I will in the morining. I know I put it in right, it only goes in one way. And the check engine light is normal, the only code is egr circut malfunction. I have 305 TBI and code 53 says, HIGH VOLTAGE AT BATTERY, what would cause that, ex. the ignition coil? Please help, thanks alot.

Oh yea thanks for the help on the dodge daytona, i figured it out, bad or wrong coolant temp sensor. Kept flooding the engine, so I replaced that along with a new exaust - cat to tips. Thanks for help.
chip was probly programed to high for your car, is yours stock?

it's stock basically, but the chip is designed for stock cars.

If you put the old prom back in and it works fine, then I would try to contact this new chips manufacturer and make shure it is the right one for your car...if they say it is, then you should try to get your money back and find a different way to boost your cars performance.
Good luck

Oh yea thanks for the help on the dodge daytona, i figured it out, bad or wrong coolant temp sensor. Kept flooding the engine, so I replaced that along with a new exaust - cat to tips. Thanks for help.

Cool, glad I mentioned that, wasn't sure if dodge did set base trim the same way or not.

Not sure what you dtc 53 is about now. Are you sure the chip is a 'ready to run'? Otherwise I think that dtc 53 has other implications behind it based on engine type, make sure your looking up the right vin chart.

Iight here's the deal, my car didn't have a prom chip in it when i got it, the person I got the car from put a new computer in it and didn't switch the chip, guess they turned it in with the old comp. for core, but anyway, the streetrunner chip was a joke, took it back, got my cash back. Now, (without the chip, as it was before) it runs but idles at 20,000 rpms. I crank it up and its like someone is just pushing in on the gas. I reset the computer, and i'm guessing it is just relearning the idle and all of that, how long should that take and should I drive it like that?
The other thing is, I just ordered the stock prom chip, from gm, and if i put that in there, I hope it will crank, does anyone know y my car would run without the chip, (like Sh*T), but runs, and if I put another chip in there why it would not run. Thanks for all the help, if it wasn't for this forum help, I would be stuck. Thanx again.

As I said before, it is running because the ESC ignition control system is the back up defualt so you can get home. The ECM (computer0 is jsut stitting there looking pretty, it is doing nothing.

Did you already order the prom from GM? If I were you, I would try calling some auto salvage yards to see if they have a camaro of the same year and model as yours first, it would probably be much cheaper.

BTW what year and model is your Camaro? My uncle owns a salvage yard and I know some people who are parting out their cars, mabe I can get you a deal and mail it to you on monday...how much $$$ did GM want for it anyway? Just wonderin if its worth the hassel of trying to find a used one.

Well i'm off to the junkyard, see if they have a chip. Thanks for the help. If I install the new chip, does it take a while for the car to crank up after installing it, to relearn idle and all of that? Just wondering cause I wanna know if I should keep cranking on it if it doesn't start up immediatly. Thanks for the offer on the chip, if I have no luck today, i'll work something out with ya on that, gm wanted right at 100 bux for one.



305 TBI 700R4
Federal Emmisions, not California
I'll get the ecm number later tonight, if I don't find a chip.
Thanks all.

Ok back from the junkyard car still won't crank, and still getting high voltage at battery code. I got a chip out of a 305 tbi camaro, i'm hoping I got the right one. What would be high voltage at battery, voltage regulator? That wouldn't keep the car from starting would it? Thanks

What year is the car? You said it would run without the memcal in it? If that is so and it won't run with the memcal in I would suspect the ECM is crap.
Code 53 means that the ECM is seeing around 17+ volts...Voltage regulator in the alternator may be shot. Don't put a new ECM in until you get that fixed.

It's a 89 305 TBI, The person I boutght the car from "says" they' ve had a new computer put in it twice. The computer is reman. that is in it now. They probably got it at autozone, and it's most likely a peice of Sh!t anyway. I'm gonna go ahead and put a new alternator on it, that come with the voltage reg. inside it right?, and get a new computer, and probably order a new prom chip from gm, just to be safe, after that if it don't work, I dunno what to do.

Alright got new alternator, put it on, still same code 53. Anyways, reset the computer and all that, checked on one of the chips I got and it fits my computer. Got a new computer, still same code, and same no-start, but I did figure out how to get it started for a couple of seconds. I sprayed some starting fluid into the throttle body and it ran for a sec or two, but cut out. If u try to hit the gas pedal makes it die quicker. Well first i'm sure everyone's thinking automatically fuel pump, me too, but if the car runs fine without the chip, the fuel pump is working, so i'm leaning towards throttle position sensor, because of the fact the pigtail on it is totaled, but who knows, im open to any suggestions, and thanx for the help.

Now you're getting somewhere. It runs without the chip, doesn't run with the chip unless you hit it with starting fluid....You aren't getting fuel with the chip in place. The ECM needs to see a refrence pulse from the distributor before it will turn on the injectors. Get an ohm meter, find the wire for the refrence pulse at the distributor and at the ECM. Unplug the connector at the ecm and at the distributor. Use the ohm meter (digital one) and check from one end of the wire to ground...resistance should be infinity. If you don't get infinity the wire is shorted. If it is good, take a piece of wire and strip both ends. Stick one end into the pin at the distributor end or ECM end and hook the other end of the wire to a good ground. Now take the meter and hook it to the pin of the connector that wasn't grounded (ECM or dist end) and put the other lead to ground...you should get 0 or VERY low resistance. If it is infinity, the wire is broken somewhere. If that all checks good...replace the ignition module ...now this is important... ONLY USE A/C DELCO MODULES!

It will start up and run fine without the chip, well when I say fine, I mean it idles like someone is in the car driving 45, but it does run. When I put the chip in it, is when I start having the no fuel problems. I figure it has something to do with whatever that chip is controlling. Someone, think it was wright, said that if the chip is not in there it is running off the computer on the firewall. When I put the chip in there it still gives off code 53, but it has a new battery and alternator, since yesterday, I don't think that would make it not start up anyway. Thanks for the help, I'm gonna try that ignition module also.

Did you try resetting the computer after you put in the prom and the new alternator before checking the codes?
Do your gauges read accurately when there is no prom?
Take a good look at the wiring around the HEI distributer(including wires to the disributer itself at its base), look for any loose connections or melted/grounded wires. Wire exposure of any kind requires attention. There is definitely a wireing problem somewhere between your alternator and your ECM.

When your car is cold, turn the key to ON and listen for the fuel pump to kick on and off a couple of seconds later. Then remove the key from the ignition, put the prom into the computer, and do the same thing again.
Is there a difference in the fuel pumps responce to your turning the ignition to ON? Did you hear the fuel pump respond eather time?
Try to respond tomarrow morning if possible so I can think about your responce...Ive been looking at the chasis electricle system wiring diagram for your car and your answers to these Qs can help me determine where the problem might be.

Well, this might help you. My '85 was doing a similar ordeal, it would start and run for a few seconds then stall. Everything pointed to a fuel delivery problem symptomwise, but inspection and testing revealed the fuel system to be up to snuff.

Chased problems around for months with no resolve.

Got into thinking it was spark issue perhaps. However the few times I could get it to run, noone was around to help out so I could not see what the spark looked like. On Saturday in a rage of desperation i pulled the dist. out. To no surprise, the ICM had no anti heat sink grease (die-electirc) on it, the distributors shaft bushing was shot. So I figureed that was it. Wrestled it back into the car. No change.

Sunday determined this was the weekend I would bring it back to life, before nature realizes that it s/b 15* outside, not near *50. After checking the whole car up and down, went back after the dist. again. i did pick up another MAF sensor that was part of my problem so it would run, barely with a little persuation. While at the swap meet looking for a dist. (no luck, can't believe that) picked up a spark tester. Got the car started and watched it started out faintly blue then when to glowing orange in an instant.

Result was the carbon button that links the rotor to the coil was melted beyond recognition and grounding the coil within a few seconds or operation. Check your distributer very carefuly, don't assume that just because it looks good on one side means it's fine underneath.

Have you verified that the alt. is indeed putting out the 17+V the ECM claims to see?