New rotors at 19,600 miles???!!!!

My 03' Silverado just failed inspection due to the brake rotors being corroded and rusted. I can't believe it!! Has anyone had a similar problem with this?? Is there anything I can do, or do I have to eat it.

My rotors were replaced at 35k and about 65k. I replaced them this last time with Brembo slotted rotors. They are alot cheaper then factory and so far they have been fine after about 10k.

Fronts or rears? I don't believe it either myself (not at 19.6K unless you've got some defective rotors) All rotors look rusty as hell if you let them sit without driving them for a bit. It wears off in a few miles. If they're talking about the cooling fins in the middle of the rotor itself, it'll always be rusty and corroded. Personally, unless they measured them and they're too thin for tolerance or warped too badly to use, I'd call BS.

Ya GMs truck rotors have problems like that.We replaced the rotors on our old 2002 2500HD at 20,000 and we replaced the rotors on our old 97 1500 Z71 at 100,000 and 150,000

I agree with the Parrot, either they are wore or warped, else okay. Unless your driving around with one foot on the brake and one on the gas or towing major loads there is no way the can be wore out.

Please fill in the blank..... What were the exact words and where did he point to to explain his words.......

More information please :confused: :confused: :eek7:

Please fill in the blank..... What were the exact words and where did he point to to explain his words.......

More information please :confused: :confused: :eek7:

He showed me the driver front rotor. And the inside part if the rotor was about 80% rust. He said I'm breaking on rust. The other 3 weren't as bad, but they were on there way to looking like the front driver one. I've been checking online and it seems GM has some sort of problem. The guy also said that the pads are harder than the rotor, cause they used a recycled metal to make the rotor.

the pads arent harder than the rotor, theyre at most semi-metallic. as for the rust a picture would probably be the only way to tell you yes or no for sure. as for it failing inspection, in missouri we cant fail rotors unless theyre cracked or under spec.

what usually happens on the silverados is that the rr calipers get all the road stuff(dirt, mud, ect.) thrown on them(my theory is they should be mounted towards the rear of the rotor like on the front, or vise versa, i'm tired) for some reason and stick so it's like riding your brake lightly all the time.

i have worked on numerous trucks with this problem and the right rear was always the worst. i'm going to call bs too because he showed you the front drivers pad.

By the sounds of it the guys a freaking idiot

Just a quick FYI..Gbuzz..my dealer notice that I was gettin a noise and vibration from rotors and said they found them to be CORRODED!! So they warranted new rotors, pads, and calipers for the rear of my 03 ext cab. You are not alone.

The rears in mine were ground out at 20000KM back in 2003. I attributed it to the ceramic pads, I replaced with regular semi-metallic pads and aftertermarket rotors and no problems since. Apparently brakes are not a warrantable item.

The mileage seems low but I had the rotors on my Subaru(15% GM owned at the time) start to "delaminate" from rust. If you live where they salt the roads a lot it eats the vented rotors from the inside out.

Fronts or rears? I don't believe it either myself (not at 19.6K unless you've got some defective rotors) All rotors look rusty as hell if you let them sit without driving them for a bit. It wears off in a few miles. If they're talking about the cooling fins in the middle of the rotor itself, it'll always be rusty and corroded. Personally, unless they measured them and they're too thin for tolerance or warped too badly to use, I'd call BS.


Well I had to replace the rear rotors,pads and calipers.

I've seen this a couple times. The rotor actually fatigues and the metal surface erodes or disintegrates and leaves a recessed rough surface that looks like rust, but it's deteriorated metal due to heat and fatigue. Real mess. If this is actually what you have by all means replace them.

2000 z71 - 65,000, get the abs recall. Dealer shop says new brakes on front and rusty rotors. I ask about the pads, he says 3/32 left. I thank him, go to napa, get pads & rotors. Jack up the truck, pop the wheels and find the most worn pad is at least 3/8 left.
Needless to say,
I'd love to write this guys med chart for his next doctor's visit...

My '04 Z71 had the rotors turned at 19,700 miles under warranty. Dealer said they came out with cruddy specs from the factory so they turned them as a warranty issue. Might check with your dealer if your 3yrs isn't up yet. Good luck

GM has always had bad rotors and brakes. I had 93 Silverado and I would have to replace the rear brake seal every 20K. it was a $600 job each time.. it sucked.. my 2000 Silverado Rotors look like crap, Rusted inside like what was mentioned, but they passed inspection about 2 months ago. I have 140K miles on those bad boys too. They need to be replaced, but I am going to replace them with aftermarket rotors.. I do like the ceramic pads better than the semi-metalic.. they do not heat up as bad and they make less brake noise than the semi-metalic

Replacing the pads/rotors is at 20-30,000 miles is quite common if you drive in mud alot or in water. GM needs to make an option of drum brakes for people who drive off-road alot. For instance with the company I used to work for we had four 1500's and every one had the rotors and pads replaced with <30,000 miles. This is very common out here because of the sandy roads, sprinkler irrigation, and gas wells we have, constantly getting crap onto the brakes. It's just a problem you'll have if you drive off the beaten pad. It's not just GM either, anything with disk brakes. I think the reason that GM hasn't done anything is that now days pick-ups are so popular with the general public that the majority of them never leave the pavement. For those of us that do we just have to put up with the headache.

If ya'll don't mind, I would like to shift this a little since we're talking about brakes. A few weeks ago I had to make an abrubt (panic!) stop due to a certain @#!* pulling out in front of me. So, I stop and almost kiss the windshield. Thank the Lord for antilock brakes! My question is there anything I should be concerned about as far as the brakes go? Everything seems to be working fine; pedal travel, stopping distance, etc. But, something in the back of my mind (which is not far from the front in my case) is telling me that I am having to apply a slight bit more pressure to stop. Almost like they are a little "wet". Am I just dreaming this up?

Just did my rear rotors at 30,000 miles. 2003 2WD ...Started to squeel, when I took the wheel off the rotors were totally delaminated. You could pick off the top layer. North East salt and grime I think is to blame.
Aftermarket rotors with two yr warranty for $45 each + pads. Dealer $160 each no warranty. While you have the wheels off adjust the parking brake to get it to work. Mine wouldnt even hold when applied. BTW the emergency brake pads if ever needed (horseshoe shaped with pads attached ) priced at $80

Just did my rear rotors at 30,000 miles. 2003 2WD ...Started to squeel, when I took the wheel off the rotors were totally delaminated. You could pick off the top layer. North East salt and grime I think is to blame.
Aftermarket rotors with two yr warranty for $45 each + pads. Dealer $160 each no warranty. While you have the wheels off adjust the parking brake to get it to work. Mine wouldnt even hold when applied. BTW the emergency brake pads if ever needed (horseshoe shaped with pads attached ) priced at $80

Where did you get your rotors and pads at?

Autozone for the rotors and pads. Not hard to do and I figured with the savings vs. the dealers it was worth a shot as the OEM rotors went to crap anyway. We'll see how they work, cheap rotors may warp easier than the OEM I dont know, but the back brakes shouldnt see the heat like the fronts