Our Community is over 1 Million Strong. Join Us.

Grand Future Air Dried Beef Dog Food
Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef

Grain-Free, Zero Fillers


Tricks for removing frozen torsion bars?


FCDGMC
01-10-2006, 02:29 PM
I have a bad rust problem and part of my solution is to remove the driveshafts and torsion bars so that I can remove the rust on a bench grinder/brush and then re-paint. I have de-tensioned the bars per the Chiltons which states the next step is to slide them forward so that they can be first removed from the tensioning lever, then the lower control arm. Problem is, both bars appear to be frozen both at the control arm end and the tensioner end, probably from the same rust problem that is plaguing the underside of this vehicle. I have hosed the ends down with WD40, and hammered on them some, but they do not appear to have any desire to move. Does any one have any suggestions on how to get these bad boys loosened up???

Oh, btw, this is a 94 K2500.

2000CAYukon
01-10-2006, 06:21 PM
Did you break the lower ball joint loose from the steering knuckle? If not, you need to break it loose.

//2000CAYukon

FCDGMC
01-11-2006, 05:46 PM
Appreciate the response, but I think you may be referring to a technique for releasing the adjusting arm once the adjusting bolt has been completely backed off and there is still enough tension in the adjusting arm resting on the retaining plate to prevent the torsion bar from being slid out. I was able to overcome that problem by depressing the adjusting arm with a jack and removing the retaining plate allowing the adjusting arm to them fall through and completely de-tension the torsion bar. The problem I'm having is that the torsion bar itself is frozen to the lower control arm, so it can't be slid forward to clear the torsion support and removed. Furthermore, it is frozen at the other end to the adjusting arm so it can't be removed from that end even if it weren't frozen to the lower control arm.

Any thoughts? Do I need to heat this thing up?

Boomyal
01-11-2006, 09:20 PM
Not familiar with the mechanics of your situation but suffice it to say that you might as well use water, as a rust penetrant, as WD-40.

Elbert
01-11-2006, 09:55 PM
I have a bad rust problem and part of my solution is to remove the driveshafts and torsion bars so that I can remove the rust on a bench grinder/brush and then re-paint. I have de-tensioned the bars per the Chiltons which states the next step is to slide them forward so that they can be first removed from the tensioning lever, then the lower control arm. Problem is, both bars appear to be frozen both at the control arm end and the tensioner end, probably from the same rust problem that is plaguing the underside of this vehicle. I have hosed the ends down with WD40, and hammered on them some, but they do not appear to have any desire to move. Does any one have any suggestions on how to get these bad boys loosened up???

Oh, btw, this is a 94 K2500.

If you have fully unloaded the torsion bars they should slid to the rear and then you should be able to remove them. Unscrew the adjusters all the way (Using the correct special tool....Safety warning) Make sure you know how to do this safely!!! If you live in the rust belt I'm guessing you may have to use some WD-40 on the pressure points and maybe use a punch and hammer from the front of the vehicle to push the torsion bars back through the lower A-Arm to clear for removal.

I don't believe you have to mess with the lower ball joints at all.

You can go to the rancho web site and down load some of the instructions for the lift kits and they explain how to remove the torsion bars (one source of this info that comes to mind) other than service manuals.

I may end up posting this twice ....the web site is acting up.

Add your comment to this topic!


Quality Real Meat Nutrition for Dogs: Best Air Dried Dog Food | Real Beef Dog Food | Best Beef Dog Food