First Time to the Track
xavier3jr
01-10-2006, 12:30 AM
Alright as my signaute says, i have a 96 gs 5 speed. I'm takeing it to the track for the first time this weekend and i was just wondering how i should launch it to get the best times. I know it all varries but how do yall launch it the more input the beter i really wana try to get the best time. I'm only gana run it 3 times and i guess the best outa 3 will be it.
Blackcrow64
01-10-2006, 12:36 AM
I've always just held in the clutch, tached it up to about 4500rpm then I slip the clutch just a bit as I let it out and then let it out all at once. It usually launched really hard and really good. I'm sure one of these days I'll break something. lol But yeah, I'm not sure if thats the right way to launch but thats how I do it and it seems to be really good. Oh yeah, don't forget that I also have my entire driveline built. If you have a stock clutch I would launch it at more like 2000-3000rpm depending on the condition of your clutch.
AlmostStock
01-10-2006, 01:08 AM
If you slip the clutch too long you'll get poor ET's and burn it up eventually. If you pop the clutch (at high RPM's) too quick it may spin the tires too much and also produce poor ET's. Practice a few times on a deserted road or parking lot before you get to the track. A little tire spin is good. If you don't spin them at all your not going to get the best time your car can get.
Blackcrow64
01-10-2006, 01:28 AM
If you slip the clutch too long you'll get poor ET's and burn it up eventually. If you pop the clutch (at high RPM's) too quick it may spin the tires too much and also produce poor ET's. Practice a few times on a deserted road or parking lot before you get to the track. A little tire spin is good. If you don't spin them at all your not going to get the best time your car can get.
So what would be the best way to launch, in my case an AWD? Am I doing it right or wrong?
So what would be the best way to launch, in my case an AWD? Am I doing it right or wrong?
xavier3jr
01-10-2006, 02:26 AM
i dont have the stock clutch but its not a performance clutch its got about 5,xxx miles on it
AlmostStock
01-10-2006, 02:37 PM
So what would be the best way to launch, in my case an AWD? Am I doing it right or wrong?
The only way to tell for sure is with numerous back to back timed runs using different techniques. What "feels" strongest may or may not produce the quickest ET. The technique you posted above sounds pretty good to me. I would think getting the clutch out quickly (without instantly dumping it) would be best. Every car will be a little different. Maybe someone with a car like yours and more racing experience can tell us what works best for them.
The only way to tell for sure is with numerous back to back timed runs using different techniques. What "feels" strongest may or may not produce the quickest ET. The technique you posted above sounds pretty good to me. I would think getting the clutch out quickly (without instantly dumping it) would be best. Every car will be a little different. Maybe someone with a car like yours and more racing experience can tell us what works best for them.
clipsekid99
01-10-2006, 03:00 PM
Taken from http://www.vfaq.net/DSM/mods/10faq.html
The Correct Way To Launch Your
All Wheel Drive T/E/L
Hold the RPM at 4500 while sitting on the line, and then slip the clutch out very quickly while adding throttle at the same rate.
Credited to: David Buschur [email protected]
Front Wheel Drive T/E/L
Well, there's been some talk recently about how to get the FWDs to hook-up at the line. Aside from spending big bucks converting to an AWD system, there are a few things you can do to get somewhat respectable 60' times at the track. Here's what *I* think (cocky college kid mode ON):
First of all, it's very important to have tires with tread on them (as I found out last weekend :-( ). Seriously though, the tires you choose to run are EXTREMELY important. Throw out those GT+4's and get a nice set of performance tires. It seems that as far as street tires go, the Dunlop SP8000's, and Goodyear GS-C's are pretty sticky tires that will give you decent all-season performance. I currently have some Dunlop D40M2's, and although they lasted a long time and I've had numerous 2.0-2.1 60' times with them, they just break away too easily. I'm currently in the process of getting myself some BFG R1 tires, but I don't expect them to last over 10K miles on the street. After more than 100 runs, I'm pretty confident that sub-2.0 60' times are just not possible with your typical "street" tire. I'll see what both R1 and slicks can do at the ShootOut! While I'm on the subject of tires, inflation is key to getting the power to the ground. At the track, I've experimented with tire pressures in front from 10lbs to 30lbs. If the pressure is too high, you'll just sit and spin and hop. If it's too low, you'll lose optimal contact with the track, and it will slow you down at higher speeds. I've found that the best pressures are around 15lbs in the front, and 55lbs in the rear (reduces drag). Now we get to weight transfer. What you want to do is keep as much of the weight in the front of the car when launching. I'm sure you've noticed that the front wheels seem to lift up under hard acceleration as the weight "transfers" towards the rear of the car.
What I have done is to install GAB adjustable struts/shocks and Eibach springs on my car. The GAB's can be adjusted to virtually prevent weight transfer, while the springs lower the cars center of gravity. I'll be cutting a coil or two off of the front springs to give the car a "raked" attitude to further reduce transfer in the coming month. I've found that the optimal setting for the GABs is 8 in back(full stiff) while leaving the front struts on setting 1(full soft). This seems to let the tires bite into the track more as the front suspension gives a little, while the rear doesn't move. Another benefit of these suspension upgrades is that I have NOT had wheel hop since putting these on. Another thing you can do that I have not tried, is to experiment with "air bags" in the rear shocks. These clever little things let you inflate them inside of the coil to stiffen up the rear shocks even more. They're affordable too if you can't get the GABs. Needless to say, take EVERYTHING out of the hatch (spare, jack, seats, carpet, tools, etc...).
Finally there's the actual launching technique. Believe me, his takes a LOT of practice! Here's what has worked best for me (I think): When you get to the line, bring the RPM's up to 3000. I don't believe that dialing the boost down is the answer to getting a clean launch, rather it's careful use of the gas.
When you launch, DON'T let the RPMs jump up on you, and DON'T take off at full throttle in first gear! I don't know about you guys, but if I get a bad launch, I'll smoke the tires all through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
OK, the light turns green. Now when you feel the clutch start to grab, keep it at half-throttle and gently slip the clutch until it's all the way out, preventing the tires from smoking(keeping it around 3500). Now you have to be very careful with the throttle. It takes some practice, but after awhile you can feel when the tires are on the brink of spinning. Keep depressing the gas SLOWLY as you gain speed, keeping in mind when you feel that your tires are about to let loose. It's very easy to get anxious and floor it, but resist the temptation.
The 1-2 shift is critical to your success at the track. If you've launched right, you should be able to get through 1st without spinning until around 6000. When you go to make this shift keep in mind that if you just floor it, I guarantee that you'll spin all through 2nd and you'll have to get off the gas and bog down. Also remember not to go completely WOT in 1st gear. Any spinning that you're doing when you make the 1-2 shift will just make for a sloppy spinning 2nd gear.
As you go into 2nd, keep the RPMs steady at around 4000. Slip the clutch out until the tires bite, then start giving it some serious gas. Don't go WOT until you're sure that the tires are biting well. At around 6200 RPMs (any higher and you'll start spinning again if you have modified your car), shift into third quickly and don't let the RPMs drop below 4500. Give it full throttle as soon as you let the clutch out.
After you've gone into 3rd you should be set to "speed shift" into 4th in a few seconds (don't take your foot off the gas, but shift VERY fast). The optimal shift point from 3rd to 4th seems to be about 5500 for the stock turbo, and around 6800 for the 16G. I don't know if I've cleared this up, or if I've just further complicated things. It's hard to describe how the car should "feel" as you near the point of spinning. After a few runs you'll see what I mean. Slipping the clutch and careful use of the gas is very important, so I'd also heartily reccomend a CFDF clutch if you're going to do this.
Credited to: Jim McKenna [email protected]
The Correct Way To Launch Your
All Wheel Drive T/E/L
Hold the RPM at 4500 while sitting on the line, and then slip the clutch out very quickly while adding throttle at the same rate.
Credited to: David Buschur [email protected]
Front Wheel Drive T/E/L
Well, there's been some talk recently about how to get the FWDs to hook-up at the line. Aside from spending big bucks converting to an AWD system, there are a few things you can do to get somewhat respectable 60' times at the track. Here's what *I* think (cocky college kid mode ON):
First of all, it's very important to have tires with tread on them (as I found out last weekend :-( ). Seriously though, the tires you choose to run are EXTREMELY important. Throw out those GT+4's and get a nice set of performance tires. It seems that as far as street tires go, the Dunlop SP8000's, and Goodyear GS-C's are pretty sticky tires that will give you decent all-season performance. I currently have some Dunlop D40M2's, and although they lasted a long time and I've had numerous 2.0-2.1 60' times with them, they just break away too easily. I'm currently in the process of getting myself some BFG R1 tires, but I don't expect them to last over 10K miles on the street. After more than 100 runs, I'm pretty confident that sub-2.0 60' times are just not possible with your typical "street" tire. I'll see what both R1 and slicks can do at the ShootOut! While I'm on the subject of tires, inflation is key to getting the power to the ground. At the track, I've experimented with tire pressures in front from 10lbs to 30lbs. If the pressure is too high, you'll just sit and spin and hop. If it's too low, you'll lose optimal contact with the track, and it will slow you down at higher speeds. I've found that the best pressures are around 15lbs in the front, and 55lbs in the rear (reduces drag). Now we get to weight transfer. What you want to do is keep as much of the weight in the front of the car when launching. I'm sure you've noticed that the front wheels seem to lift up under hard acceleration as the weight "transfers" towards the rear of the car.
What I have done is to install GAB adjustable struts/shocks and Eibach springs on my car. The GAB's can be adjusted to virtually prevent weight transfer, while the springs lower the cars center of gravity. I'll be cutting a coil or two off of the front springs to give the car a "raked" attitude to further reduce transfer in the coming month. I've found that the optimal setting for the GABs is 8 in back(full stiff) while leaving the front struts on setting 1(full soft). This seems to let the tires bite into the track more as the front suspension gives a little, while the rear doesn't move. Another benefit of these suspension upgrades is that I have NOT had wheel hop since putting these on. Another thing you can do that I have not tried, is to experiment with "air bags" in the rear shocks. These clever little things let you inflate them inside of the coil to stiffen up the rear shocks even more. They're affordable too if you can't get the GABs. Needless to say, take EVERYTHING out of the hatch (spare, jack, seats, carpet, tools, etc...).
Finally there's the actual launching technique. Believe me, his takes a LOT of practice! Here's what has worked best for me (I think): When you get to the line, bring the RPM's up to 3000. I don't believe that dialing the boost down is the answer to getting a clean launch, rather it's careful use of the gas.
When you launch, DON'T let the RPMs jump up on you, and DON'T take off at full throttle in first gear! I don't know about you guys, but if I get a bad launch, I'll smoke the tires all through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd.
OK, the light turns green. Now when you feel the clutch start to grab, keep it at half-throttle and gently slip the clutch until it's all the way out, preventing the tires from smoking(keeping it around 3500). Now you have to be very careful with the throttle. It takes some practice, but after awhile you can feel when the tires are on the brink of spinning. Keep depressing the gas SLOWLY as you gain speed, keeping in mind when you feel that your tires are about to let loose. It's very easy to get anxious and floor it, but resist the temptation.
The 1-2 shift is critical to your success at the track. If you've launched right, you should be able to get through 1st without spinning until around 6000. When you go to make this shift keep in mind that if you just floor it, I guarantee that you'll spin all through 2nd and you'll have to get off the gas and bog down. Also remember not to go completely WOT in 1st gear. Any spinning that you're doing when you make the 1-2 shift will just make for a sloppy spinning 2nd gear.
As you go into 2nd, keep the RPMs steady at around 4000. Slip the clutch out until the tires bite, then start giving it some serious gas. Don't go WOT until you're sure that the tires are biting well. At around 6200 RPMs (any higher and you'll start spinning again if you have modified your car), shift into third quickly and don't let the RPMs drop below 4500. Give it full throttle as soon as you let the clutch out.
After you've gone into 3rd you should be set to "speed shift" into 4th in a few seconds (don't take your foot off the gas, but shift VERY fast). The optimal shift point from 3rd to 4th seems to be about 5500 for the stock turbo, and around 6800 for the 16G. I don't know if I've cleared this up, or if I've just further complicated things. It's hard to describe how the car should "feel" as you near the point of spinning. After a few runs you'll see what I mean. Slipping the clutch and careful use of the gas is very important, so I'd also heartily reccomend a CFDF clutch if you're going to do this.
Credited to: Jim McKenna [email protected]
Blackcrow64
01-10-2006, 03:13 PM
Sweetness Clipsekid99! I completely forgot about that being in there. :thumbsup:
xavier3jr
01-10-2006, 03:38 PM
thanks clipsekid i never knew that site was there
MexRocket
01-10-2006, 05:50 PM
lol what about awd automatic LOL
defiancy
01-10-2006, 06:58 PM
lol what about awd automatic LOL
gun it and run it
gun it and run it
Thor06
01-10-2006, 07:05 PM
Or stop being a pussy and buy a 5 speed. :lol: Just playin guys, not serious ;).
ted_ex
01-10-2006, 07:12 PM
Here's the best way. Launch your car into a lake and buy a turbo! j/k
xavier3jr
01-10-2006, 07:34 PM
ive actually thought about that.....
and reporting it stolen and geting a insurance claim
and reporting it stolen and geting a insurance claim
david-b
01-10-2006, 07:45 PM
lol. Weirdo. 3500rpm is what I usually launch at. I need tires on both sets of wheels, so I keep slipping pretty bad no matter where I'm at. I'll get some tires soon... (I hope)
clipsekid99
01-10-2006, 11:46 PM
Glad to be of some service :smokin:
xavier3jr
01-11-2006, 12:22 AM
how am i a weirdo :cool: lol
i need new tires to im geting soem tommrow hopefully got a friend that works in sears automotive hes gana get me some for cheep
i need new tires to im geting soem tommrow hopefully got a friend that works in sears automotive hes gana get me some for cheep
Talon69
01-12-2006, 06:30 PM
Well with my stock clutch i was launching at 5,000rpms and getting mostly 1.7 60 foot times.
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