2000 Kia blinking check engine light

One day I was driving my 2000 Kia Sephia on the highway. When I got off the highway the car started shaking and sputtering and the check engine light came on and it started to blink. I stopped at my destination, where I was at for a couple of hours and when I started the car up the light was not blinking, and the car was behaving normal.
About a week later I had to drive the car about 90 miles, which it made just fine, however, on the way back from the destination the sputtering problem and the blinking check engine light came back on.
I took the car to Autozone and it had 5 codes: cylinder 1-4 misfires and another code that was either evaporation system or emmission systems leak...I can't remember exactly on that one.
I replaced the plugs, the wires (which I am sure were put on properly), the coils, and the fuel filter and for good measure I changed the oil and checked the air filter as well. The problem remains.
What else could be causing this misfire problem?

One day I was driving my 2000 Kia Sephia on the highway. When I got off the highway the car started shaking and sputtering and the check engine light came on and it started to blink. I stopped at my destination, where I was at for a couple of hours and when I started the car up the light was not blinking, and the car was behaving normal.
About a week later I had to drive the car about 90 miles, which it made just fine, however, on the way back from the destination the sputtering problem and the blinking check engine light came back on.
I took the car to Autozone and it had 5 codes: cylinder 1-4 misfires and another code that was either evaporation system or emmission systems leak...I can't remember exactly on that one.
I replaced the plugs, the wires (which I am sure were put on properly), the coils, and the fuel filter and for good measure I changed the oil and checked the air filter as well. The problem remains.
What else could be causing this misfire problem?

You replaced the wires?? and the coils??

If both of those have been done I would check the secondary wiring to the coils and make sure that the wiring is not cracked. Have seen that before and cause intermittent driveability issues. Also listen to the injectors with a long screwdriver next to your ear and make sure they are clicking. It is possible that they are sticking but that is rare on sephia.

You replaced the wires?? and the coils??
I would check the secondary wiring to the coils and make sure that the wiring is not cracked. Have seen that before and cause intermittent driveability issues.

Ya know what, one of the wire leads that goes into the coil is tan, where the other one is white, I will have to look at that, but if it does turn out to be that, how do you remedy that? Is there a replacement part available or is that a dealer thing....because I am trying to avoid MY dealer at all costs...I am not sure if all Kia dealerships are like mine, but I do not take my car there any more....the list of complaints and reasons are way to long to write here.

Thanks though, I will definetly take a look and also check out the injectors.

Ya know what, one of the wire leads that goes into the coil is tan, where the other one is white, I will have to look at that, but if it does turn out to be that, how do you remedy that? Is there a replacement part available or is that a dealer thing....because I am trying to avoid MY dealer at all costs...I am not sure if all Kia dealerships are like mine, but I do not take my car there any more....the list of complaints and reasons are way to long to write here.

Thanks though, I will definetly take a look and also check out the injectors.


The primary wiring is dealer only as far as I know.

And no not all dealers are the same. You usually can trace the source to poor management.

The primary wiring is dealer only as far as I know.

And no not all dealers are the same. You usually can trace the source to poor management.

One of the leads was tan and cracked, but I did not see any damage INSIDE the connector, but I ordered one anyway and should have it tomorrow because it was pretty cheap. If this doesn't take care of it what else could it be? I understand checking the injectors as a good idea because of the way it is running, but what about the 4 codes that point to misfireing cylinders, I would think if it was an injector that it would give an injector related code, but then again, I don't really understand this car at all.

Still waiting on the part, appears that the original source they tried to get it from was back ordered, in the meantime, my blower stopped working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse with a new one and it instantly blew upon starting. It appears now I have a short, but again, really have no idea where to start to diagnose. Is there any way these two problems are related, and what of a broken Oxygen Sensor causeing all of this or some of this?

Still waiting on the part, appears that the original source they tried to get it from was back ordered, in the meantime, my blower stopped working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. I replaced the fuse with a new one and it instantly blew upon starting. It appears now I have a short, but again, really have no idea where to start to diagnose. Is there any way these two problems are related, and what of a broken Oxygen Sensor causeing all of this or some of this?

An O2 isnt going to cause a misfire but it will turn on the MIL.

The Blower motor is probably bad. Also these have a history of melting the connection in the engine compartment fuse box.

Creeper,
Well, the horn stopped working yesterday so I thought, what the hell and changed the blower fuse again and WA-LAH, the blower started working. Unfortunately today I went to an appointment and when I came out the car wouldn'y start at all, it would crank, but it never really started. I use some starting fluid and it kicked over, but eventually died. I guess it is off to the garage...hopefully all of the money and parts that I have already put into the car were things that were close to being or were needed to be changed anyway. I guess we'll see what the issue is once and for all. Thanks for posting, I am guessing you are going to be right on about an injector too.

Creeper,
Well, the horn stopped working yesterday so I thought, what the hell and changed the blower fuse again and WA-LAH, the blower started working. Unfortunately today I went to an appointment and when I came out the car wouldn'y start at all, it would crank, but it never really started. I use some starting fluid and it kicked over, but eventually died. I guess it is off to the garage...hopefully all of the money and parts that I have already put into the car were things that were close to being or were needed to be changed anyway. I guess we'll see what the issue is once and for all. Thanks for posting, I am guessing you are going to be right on about an injector too.

That fuse box connection is probably melted and just jiggling it will make it work.

As for a no start problem, again I have to say that the fuse box may be the culprit. Have replaced several. Get in there and shake the heck out of the engine compartment fuse box and she if she starts.

Good luck.

It turned out that the tank was too low, and the battery got to low to turn it over, however the BIG problem with the timing and all is a dead cylinder....number 3 I think. At this point I am not sure I want to mess with it, because I am not really sure what kind of cost is involved or if the car is worth it, or if it is going to just be the first of costly repairs...I don't know.

It turned out that the tank was too low, and the battery got to low to turn it over, however the BIG problem with the timing and all is a dead cylinder....number 3 I think. At this point I am not sure I want to mess with it, because I am not really sure what kind of cost is involved or if the car is worth it, or if it is going to just be the first of costly repairs...I don't know.


You have a misfire on #3 cylinder. Remove the cover from the center of the valve cover and remove the number 3 wire. It is the short wire.

More than likely you will see what looks like lightning strikes on the wire if so the wire is no good. Replace it.

A weak battery will cause strting problems even if the engine turns over it doesnt have enough power to keep everything going to start and run.