Quitting

My 1991 Blaser will just quit when you are sitting at a redlight or stop sign. It quits in drive or reverse. Anyone have any suggestion?

Is this something that has been going on for a while and has been getting worse or did it just start out of nowhere.

About a month ago we went out to go to church and it would not start. I replaced the rotor button and the cap. It started after that. Then it would not start again a couple of weeks later. My son and I had to boost it off and when it started he noticed that the coil was sparking from the coil to the valve cover pan. I replace the coil with a used you that I had. But it still does the quitting.


Thnaks for the reply.

Is this something that has been going on for a while and has been getting worse or did it just start out of nowhere.

btt

My 92 does that, if i crank the wheel too hard it dies, and sometimes when i put it into gear it dies.
I cant figure out whats doing it.

1st, don't use a used coil, get a new one. Do a regular tune up (plugs, wires, and fuel filter) and see how it runs after that. Also check all your vac hoses for dry rot and holes. Spray out your throttle body with carb cleaner as well.

I put new wires and plugs less than 2000 miles on them. At each oil change (3000 miles) I spray the throttle body with cleaner. Thanks for the reply!








1st, don't use a used coil, get a new one. Do a regular tune up (plugs, wires, and fuel filter) and see how it runs after that. Also check all your vac hoses for dry rot and holes. Spray out your throttle body with carb cleaner as well.

Ok... Look down your throttlebody... Are the injectors spraying a nice fine cone or do they have a slight drip to them?

The injectors are spraying a cone shape flow into the throttle body.


Ok... Look down your throttlebody... Are the injectors spraying a nice fine cone or do they have a slight drip to them?

I cleaned out the rear ventline from the driver side valvecover, cleaned the TBI real good and it has all stopped, i took the lines off clean them out as well, took it out and the stalling and the hesistation/stuttering has left.

A stuck PCV valve or a clogged vent line can cause a problem like this and thats exactly what detroitmuscle had. Also how is you idle motor on the TBI, how is the idle too, does it idle at the correct RPM?

I put a new PCV valve in this week and cleaned the throttle body. A friend of mine gave me a used throttle control that I'm going to try tomorrow. Thanks for the reply! I will post on the results.


A stuck PCV valve or a clogged vent line can cause a problem like this and thats exactly what detroitmuscle had. Also how is you idle motor on the TBI, how is the idle too, does it idle at the correct RPM?

Replace the coil with a new unit and also check your battery voltage.

Your alternator could be weak.

btt

btt

huh?

Sounds to me like maybe compression. same shit used to happen to me in my S-10 pick-up

huh?

My thoughts exactly, I think he isn't listening to us.

Also Ricky, stop bumping the topic to the top.

Checked all vent lines, change the IAC, checked the compression, checked the timing, cleaned the trottlebody, checked the battery voltage, checked the charging system, changed the coil, checked all the wires, and still got the same results.

Oh just forgot, how about the ignition module on the distributor.

I replaced the distributor with a new one, had module and new picpup coil in it. Also replaced the cap and rotor button.

For some reason the cheap wires don't last long in Blazers. So if you used a cheap set they might still be your problem.

I don't like suporting the dealers often but OEM wires last the longest

The plug wires were the most expension ones they had.

Well! I'M Stumped on this one. Tried everything that has been mentioned and it still quits.

The plug wires were the most expension ones they had.

Yes, yes, that's nice - but are they AC/Delco wires?

Most expensive doesn't mean they are good for more than sparking over your push mower. Stick to AC/Delco on the ignition parts. Return the wires you got, and take your cash to the parts counter at a GMC/GM truck delaership. You'll be surprised how inexpensive the *RIGHT* stuff is.

Check all grounds and check to see if the fuel pump is priming.

That was the first thing that I did check was the grounds and fuel pump.
What I can't understand it WAS NOT quitting until after I replaced the distributor, cap, and rotor button.

Well that should be a starting point, check for continuity on the coil wire.

My 1991 Blaser will just quit when you are sitting at a redlight or stop sign. It quits in drive or reverse. Anyone have any suggestion?

Alright, I have a question, does you truck run and then just quit, just stop right away, like your stopped at a light, you waiting and idleing, and all of a sudden it shuts off, OR does it run, but once you put it in gear, the idle gets so low, that it just dies out. These represent two different scenarios.

It idles normal and then all of a sudden its like you just turned the switch off. It does it in drive, while sitting at a stop light, and sometimes when you put it into reverse.

I checked all the wires and everything is fine with them.

Well, I believe that everyone is stumped on this one!

Alright, start the truck up, get under the hood and try wiggling/pulling/twisting the connections at both the distributor and at the ignition coil. I am not talking about the spark plug wires, but rather the connections at the ignition module and the connections at the coil. You just may have a loose connection. It defiently sounds like a electrical connection problem, not a mechanical problem. Also, take a look at your battery connections, make sure they are tight and clean.

Well, I believe that everyone is stumped on this one!

Just an outside possibility. I have a Buick that used to quit and then after waiting for a few minutes or even as much as 15 minutes would start up again. The problem was the crankshaft sensor. If the computer missed some pulses it would shut the engine off. This would happen when least expected. Sometimes in stop and go traffic, other times at high speed.

The dealer (under warranty at the time) could not find the problem. But then, how can you find an intermittant electrical problem driving the car around the block? They eventually found it by replacing parts. 2 Years later, I got a recall notice about faulty crankshaft sensors.

Yeah I know of all the crankshaft sensor problems GM had with all kinds of cars and trucks. The '91 though does not have a crankshaft sensor.

I checked all wiring from the distributor to coil and from the distributor to the wiring harness. Still the same thing. Tonight I went and filled up with gas, and when I put in in reverse it started surging and quit.This is the first time that it done that.

Here's 2 ideas , try the wiggling things like the key switch, steering coulmn, shifter and steering wheel. I like all these suggestions to keep replacing parts and eventually you will find the problem or have a new truck. (sorry couldn't resist)

The other thing to try is to clamp a test light on the run side (power) to the dist or ignition and bring the light into the truck with oyu while you can attmpt to make it act up. When it does see if the light went out.

Best to spend as much or more time on diagnosis then labor changing parts (that is expensive also) try to figure out how to make it act up and repeat acting up , eventually you will find out exactly when and where and why it does what it does.

Oh my other idea was to open hood with it running on a very black/dark night without any lights anf let your eyes get used to the darknes you may see or hear some stray sparks around the secondary ignition components.

It may help us too if you can give us exact details on how it runs normally, does it eun good at highway speed and how often it acts up, ect.? Hope you get it figured soon, very frustrating.

I checked all wiring from the distributor to coil and from the distributor to the wiring harness. Still the same thing. Tonight I went and filled up with gas, and when I put in in reverse it started surging and quit.This is the first time that it done that.

HMMM... the surging part is very interesting. Take a look at the TPS values. Check the TPS readings, by either putting a scanner to it, or by connecting a volt meter. A scanner would be the best, as you could also check the values of the MAP, and 02 sensor. I would be looking very closely at the TPS at this point.

Under normal highway speeds everything is just fine, it only does the quitting at idle speed. If you hold the RPM's above idle while its in drive or reverse it will not quit.

I've been doing a lot of working lately have not got to check the board. My battery went down the other day, put a new one in and still having the same problem.

Fuel filter ever changed?

Have you set the base timing lately with the timing wire removed?

Blazer LT
I'm not sure what you are refering to when you said the timing wire removed.

Blazer LT
I'm not sure what you are refering to when you said the timing wire removed.

Pardon me if I'm getting in the way in this thread but I remember saying somewhere that in order to set the base timing, you have to disconnect the wire (brown wire, if I remember correctly) that can be found just under the top of the carpet (under the glove compartment, passenger side). There is a connector that can be pried apart (by relieving the snap). Unless this wire is disconnected, it is impossible to set the base timing, otherwise, the computer controls the timing. Disconnecting it takes the computer out of the loop.

Yip, brown and beige wire exactly where he said it is.

Disconnect it, time it to zero, turn off the truck, reconnect the wire and it is set.

I will give it a try and post the results!

Well I set the base timing as described in the post above. Took it for a test drive and seemed to be fine. I saw a friend of my on the side of the road and while I was talking to him I had it in drive idling, and what you no it just shut off. Got back home let it set and idle in reverse and it quiy again. Any more suggestion?

When it quits, will it start right back up?

I dont know ... well anything about 91s but if it in fact has the chioce to scan the computer wouldnt that be a good bet. You never know it might just not set off the Check Engine light? I have no idea so dont get on me to bad I was just giving my worthless 2 cents

This almost sounds like an ignition module issue (the one attached to the distributo) What can happen is when cold they're fine, but as they warm up the modules go haywire and do all sorts of stuff from severe misses to truck dying. Have you looked at the ignition moule?

The distributor that I bought had a new one in it when I bought it. But it still could be bad. I will put another one in it and see what happens.