Rear Pass Window Depth...
DIGITRUCK
01-05-2006, 01:16 AM
Hey,
I noticed that on XJ's the Rear Pass Window only goes down about 2/3 and stops. I believe this is considered normal and was designed for Child Safety.
Well, I don't have any kids (maybe a few running around that I'm unaware of. LOL) so I would like to make them go further down and bring in a nice breeze on a Warm Spring Day!
Today, while drilling out rivets holding a door lock actuator I noticed that the window looks like it hits a thick piece of wire that's twisted onto the verticle portion of the Window Mechanism (pwr windows) and stops there. What if I remove this piece, think it will make the window go down further? But if I do will it still go back up since the thick wire is there for a reason.
Also, if the window isn't supposed to go all the way down what about putting a small u-bolt almost at the bottom of the verticle piece? It would stop the window but still allow it to go much further down, right?
Thoughts?
Thx, Phil:smile:
I noticed that on XJ's the Rear Pass Window only goes down about 2/3 and stops. I believe this is considered normal and was designed for Child Safety.
Well, I don't have any kids (maybe a few running around that I'm unaware of. LOL) so I would like to make them go further down and bring in a nice breeze on a Warm Spring Day!
Today, while drilling out rivets holding a door lock actuator I noticed that the window looks like it hits a thick piece of wire that's twisted onto the verticle portion of the Window Mechanism (pwr windows) and stops there. What if I remove this piece, think it will make the window go down further? But if I do will it still go back up since the thick wire is there for a reason.
Also, if the window isn't supposed to go all the way down what about putting a small u-bolt almost at the bottom of the verticle piece? It would stop the window but still allow it to go much further down, right?
Thoughts?
Thx, Phil:smile:
Jeepme
01-05-2006, 05:11 PM
If you were working on a door lock actuator, it must be a four door. My four door 95's back windows both go all the way down into the door. If it's a wire twisted around part of the mechanism to stop the window it seems like a strange way to build things. I wonder if someone did that to keep the kids or dog from jumping/falling out.
oljeeptek
01-06-2006, 01:03 AM
Both rear windows should go down the same amount. They didn't go all the way down, but I think thats because the bottom of the door has a dogleg in the back to clear the front of the rear tirewells.
I don't remember any "large wires", to be honest. I think you may be referring to the guide that goes into the nylon tube and loops back up to keep the cable out of harms way? ( I might be a little confused as I can't remember whether yours is cable drive or plastic tape drive. ;P )
I don't remember any "large wires", to be honest. I think you may be referring to the guide that goes into the nylon tube and loops back up to keep the cable out of harms way? ( I might be a little confused as I can't remember whether yours is cable drive or plastic tape drive. ;P )
DIGITRUCK
01-06-2006, 03:19 AM
Hey,
Ok, this eve I removed the thick wire that was twisted around the verticle part of the Window Regulator. This wire blocks the Regulator Plate from going down further.
The Window then went all the way down. Yay! Almost. It didn't go back up either. Boo. So I played around with it to see how far I could get it to go down but still go up unassisted.
Found the right spot and cut two notches in it with my ol' trusty Dremel then wrapped a thick hard wire around it to block the Regulator Plate from going down too far (and not going up).
Now, I can lower the Rear Pass Window much lower. The Window sticks up only around 2" above the rubber molding. Way Better! Yay!
Just have to do the Left side.
OlJeepTek - Donno which type of Window Reg I have. Is there an easy way to tell? I can't remove them since they're riveted in. Which one of the two that you mentioned is better?
btw - The New Door Lock Actuator will Lock but won't UnLock. Doing the same as the OEM. Looks like the dreaded voltage drop and I'm gonna have to add Relays damn.
Thx, Phil:smile:
Ok, this eve I removed the thick wire that was twisted around the verticle part of the Window Regulator. This wire blocks the Regulator Plate from going down further.
The Window then went all the way down. Yay! Almost. It didn't go back up either. Boo. So I played around with it to see how far I could get it to go down but still go up unassisted.
Found the right spot and cut two notches in it with my ol' trusty Dremel then wrapped a thick hard wire around it to block the Regulator Plate from going down too far (and not going up).
Now, I can lower the Rear Pass Window much lower. The Window sticks up only around 2" above the rubber molding. Way Better! Yay!
Just have to do the Left side.
OlJeepTek - Donno which type of Window Reg I have. Is there an easy way to tell? I can't remove them since they're riveted in. Which one of the two that you mentioned is better?
btw - The New Door Lock Actuator will Lock but won't UnLock. Doing the same as the OEM. Looks like the dreaded voltage drop and I'm gonna have to add Relays damn.
Thx, Phil:smile:
Ray H
01-06-2006, 03:35 AM
I could be wrong because Im not completely familiar with all years of XJ but I think the rear windows should go all the way down. I know they do on my 96 and the window/door shape and size on all XJs is really close to the same and thats the reason they all have that smaller fixed window behind the roll down window in the rear doors.
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