Oil question.

Well this is just general question about oils. Right now I run penzoil high-milage in my civic, I am thinking of switching to Castrol synthetic blend, as I do not want to go full synthetic on my 140k engine.
My question is do I just put the new oil in or do I need to run the cleaning oil?
Thanks

Bump

I got tha answer go to the honda section, lol

I got tha answer go to the honda section, lol

404 Funny Not Found.






I wouldnt bother with synthetic... with 140 on the clock its all just gonna fly by your rings and burn.


I'd think you need to run cleaning oil if you do... The thing is that synthetic oils run alot of solvents so all the deposits are gonna get loosened and run though the filter (possibly also the bearings) so you clean it out before hand. When I switched to Hydrotex the dealer gave me some cleaner to run though for 20minutes...

So if you have high mileage its not good to use synthetic oil? Since I use Castrol synthetic blend in my 160K mile engine. More info on this please.

-Matt

404 Funny Not Found.



http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/twofourty/stallowned.gif :lol:

So if you have high mileage its not good to use synthetic oil? Since I use Castrol synthetic blend in my 160K mile engine. More info on this please.

-Matt
Pretty much, I've heard of people switching to synthetic with no problems, and there cars that switching to synthetic causes oil to leak out of every hole in the engine (usually higher milage). Thats why I am asking about synthetic blend, as I do not want to go full synthetic.
And wouldn't the cleaner oil make the oil leak as it is really thin?

404 funny not found,and the stallowned thing were funny as SH*T so heres some help but you will have to read alot
synthetic oils are also
renowned for their high-temperature thermal stability. Superior
high-temp stability ensures and engine lubricant's capacity to protect
vital engine components during very-high-temperature operation, such as
hot summer driving, sustained high-speed driving, repetitious stop and
go metropolitan driving, driving in mountainous terrain, pulling a
trailer, or any driving with a small harder-working piston or rotary
engine. Underhood temperatures also take a quantum leap with the use of
power options, especially air conditioning, and because of emissions
devices and emissions-related engine redesign. It is important to note
that, even though the dash gauge may register only a 200F or so
water/coolant temperature, the temperature of the sump and of all the
assorted bearing surfaces significantly exceed the water temperature,
and often surpass 500F on the piston ring and cylinder wall areas.These high-temperature surfaces serve to rapidly decompose petroleum oil
and additives, as well as contribute to their shorter service life,
while the synthetic is largely unaffectedTheres more information on this site...http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt

Thanks for the info

404 funny not found,and the stallowned thing were funny as SH*T so heres some help but you will have to read alot
synthetic oils are also
renowned for their high-temperature thermal stability. Superior
high-temp stability ensures and engine lubricant's capacity to protect
vital engine components during very-high-temperature operation, such as
hot summer driving, sustained high-speed driving, repetitious stop and
go metropolitan driving, driving in mountainous terrain, pulling a
trailer, or any driving with a small harder-working piston or rotary
engine. Underhood temperatures also take a quantum leap with the use of
power options, especially air conditioning, and because of emissions
devices and emissions-related engine redesign. It is important to note
that, even though the dash gauge may register only a 200F or so
water/coolant temperature, the temperature of the sump and of all the
assorted bearing surfaces significantly exceed the water temperature,
and often surpass 500F on the piston ring and cylinder wall areas.These high-temperature surfaces serve to rapidly decompose petroleum oil
and additives, as well as contribute to their shorter service life,
while the synthetic is largely unaffectedTheres more information on this site...http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt


You're never gonna get a daily driver civic with no mod hots enough to need synthetic.


If you run High RPM or Turbo you use a 15-40W+ Synthetic... Stock Civic with 160mi on the clock the risks of switching to sythetic out weight the advantages.

If you run High RPM or Turbo you use a 15-40W+ Synthetic...

I think nissanfanatic uses 10w30, seems to work fine for him, I'm not calling you on it, I'm just saying.

I switched my old Datsun with 140000 on the clock over to 15w50 and didn't have any problems....till I lost the water pump....

i think im using 10-40 right now but i cant remember. I would risk running the full synthetic on an engine that high. Only on low mile engines that are already broken in right would i run FULL synthetic. What kind of oil do you guys use in your trannys (probably GL-4, but what brand?) because the only GL-4 i could find was NAPA brand, but i have also heard of Royal Purple making a GL4 tranny fluid, might have too look into that instead of cheapie napa fluid.

I think nissanfanatic uses 10w30, seems to work fine for him, I'm not calling you on it, I'm just saying.


I use a 15-50 right now and Im about to change to a 15W-40 this next oil change.

What I gather is that higher viscosity oils will break down less with the heat of a turbo Also, the last thing you want on an SR at high RPM is thin oil... thats what will cause you to jump lifters.

I did not wanted to switch because I drive it at high rpms, but for the extra protection as synthetic does not break down with time. I think I'll just keep on using Penzoil High Milage until the engine dies, which should be around 400k lol. Don't really want to risk with a perfectly good motor, organic oil + oil change every 3000k = perfectly fine for a daily driver. My conclusion on this.

Exactly.