Tamiya Polycarbonate Spray paint

Hi all,

I was wondering why Tamiya's polycarbonate spray paints cannot be used on injection plastic kits? Can anyone shed any light on the reason why it cannot be used? :confused:

They're formulated for use on clear lexan bodies. They don't stick too well to polystyrene plastic alegedly. Never tried them on 'styrene myself so I'm just going by commonly held wisdom. I seem to recall one guy who used the flourescent pink on a Stohl Focus. Worked okay with some care. Would be better options around in 99.9% of cases if you look.

They are still very useful however. I use them to colour ribbon for seatbelts and the clear fuel resistant top coat (acrylic in a bottle) for coating tyres after the decals. Great stuff where you need some flexability.

I cannot comment on their application on other surfaces either, but I think if you prime it, you might be OK. They go over bare Lexan/polycarbonate, and have a flex agent so they will not flake off as the bodies flex and rattle around (Regular enamel just peels off on it's own). I was told by some guys who painted R/C wheels with polycarbonate paint (Pactra I believe) that it melts the plastic a little, so definitely prime it.

Also be warned that it dries flat, so you'll have to clearcoat it.

You might be able to find the color you need it Parma's Faskolor line: That is basically Createx, possibly with a flex agent depending on whom you believe.

I have used PS-46 iridescent purple/green Tamiya Polycarbonte paint over Tamiya plastic model primer. I followed the color coat with Tamiya clear to achieve a wonderful gloss.:smokin: The car was the Aoshima VIP Lexus 430. I had no problems what so ever and I would definitely do it again.

Mark

It's really not formulated to be an outer surface- it's intended to be painted from the inside of a clear plastic shell, so the shell itself provides the 'finish'. Sure, it probably can be done- but why? If you try hard enough, you can also probably get a passible finish on a model car with house paint. If there's a color you gotta have, or if being unconventional gives you a rush, go for it (I understand toothpaste can also be used for filler!)- but as mentioned above, there is almost always a better option.

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.

Oh Goody! It's AF Hints from Heloise. :tongue:

Oh Goody! It's AF Hints from Heloise. :tongue:

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :jump3:

Thanks for all your responses. Sounds like with a little preparation, it is possible to apply these poly paints to plastic.

I will definitely have a go... especially using toothpaste as after dinner mints (!) :icon16:

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.
Sigged! :lol: Oh, to answer the topic question, yes they can be used. I've painted several models with Pactra P/C paints succesfully by priming the surface with automotive primer. I personally just wanted to see if it could be done. :smile:

Those blobs of toothpaste that fall onto the sink and harden also make good after-dinner mints.

:grinno: haha!

I'm also courious abt the green/purple PC finishing.

I'm used with those on RC cars/trucks (1/8and1/10) but I think Pactra is better: Tamy kind is reeeeaaally laaaazy to dry and mantain a "soft" appeal fo some time: on lexan bodies this's not important due to the fact that bodies're paint from inside: be aware also from Tamy PC smell: terrible (also outdoor) ! If you're impressed from some TS smell PC kinds just not made for you!

I used to build RC cars all the time and would regularly use the PC paints to paint the plastic spoliers and/or mirror that came with Tamiya RC bodies. I used to prime with Tamiya primer, paint with the PC paint and then clear with Tamiya clear, never had a problem and always came out perfect. I agree however that if there are other non PC paint options you should probably explore those first.

Seems like the PC paints do work on plastic, but probably not ideal for plastic use.

I normally do use automotive paints. I have an airbrush, but am not that good at doing the thinning of paint so that they can be airbrushed, etc. Also, time is another thing that I do not have much of, so for now I am after a simple spray can :iceslolan

What is so hard about primeing with Tamiya, painting with the PC color coat, and clearing, all with Tamiya paints. I clear almost all of my work anyway. It did not take anymore time then any other Tamiya paint job I have done.

If clear coating is too much work then, how much work are you willing to do on your model? I spend about at least 24 hours on each of my models so, what would be the point of blowing the paint job because of time. :screwy:


Mark

What is so hard about primeing with Tamiya, painting with the PC color coat, and clearing, all with Tamiya paints. I clear almost all of my work anyway. It did not take anymore time then any other Tamiya paint job I have done.

If clear coating is too much work then, how much work are you willing to do on your model? I spend about at least 24 hours on each of my models so, what would be the point of blowing the paint job because of time. :screwy:


Mark

24 hours? wow? I spend 24 MONTHS :)

I said "at least 24 hours". I was talking about actually work time not how many days from start to finish. :smile:

Some models have taken me months and some have never got done because of my attempts to cut-up, modify or other wise mess up them.


Mark