1994 JGC Laredo Front Axle Replacement

I have a 1994 JGC Laredo that has the boot that covers the front right axle split. All the grease is gone and it clicks real bad on turns. I want to change out the whole assembly but need help. Anybody have any links to a web site that shows and tells ahow to do it? It would be appreciated. Oh by the way.....HAPPY NEW YEAR to all.......... Also about how much does a new axle cost?


FF/EMT Gary

New axle is about $110 at Autozone.

Quick summary of Axleshaft replacement:
-Raise Jeep.
-Remove wheel (5 lug nuts) and remove center cap from wheel.
-Remove the cotter pin, locking cap and spring washer from axleshaft.
-Place 1-7/16" socket on the axle nut, and put the wheel back on and tighten the lugnuts and lower vehicle. Then using a breaker bar break the axle nut loose (it should be very tight, might want to use some PB Blaster on the nut as well to help break it loose).
-Then raise jeep up and support it securely on jackstands. Remove wheel again.
-Remove brake caliper (2 13mm bolts on backside and pry between the caliper and center od the rotor with a screwdriver or pry bar)
-Remove rotor (slides right off after caliper is removed)
-Remove ABS Wheel Speed Sensor from backside of hub (1 8mm bolt)
-Loosen 3 13mm (12 points) bolts on backside of hub so they stick out the back about 1/2". Then using a hammer tap on the head of the bolts to drive the bearing/hub assembly out of the steering knuckle (might be a lil tight).
-Finish removing the Axle nut and the 3 bearing/hub bolts (on backside of hub). Then finish removing the bearing/hub assembly from the steering knuckle.
-Slide the axleshaft out of the axle tube and replace with new.
-Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure to tighten the hubbolts (3 13mm 12point bolts) and the Axlenut (1-7/16" nut) very tight.

I think thats about it, Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Nice post. You only missed the last steps, wash up, kick back and have a cold beer, smile and say ahhhhhhh!

Nice post. You only missed the last steps, wash up, kick back and have a cold beer, smile and say ahhhhhhh!

One more step:
Lube the spline end of the axle shaft before sliding them in and be very careful or you will be replacing a seal soon.

-Loosen 3 13mm (12 points) bolts on backside of hub so they stick out the back about 1/2". Then using a hammer tap on the head of the bolts to drive the bearing/hub assembly out of the steering knuckle (might be a lil tight).

If you "tap" these too hard, you won't get a socket back on to tighten them up again. Most of the hubs I've removed were stuck too bad and needed a pounding to get them out. I can't remember if the threads are SAE or metric but it will save you special ordering new bolts from DC if you get some hex head bolts to replace the original ones for beatin on....

The axle tubes are usually filled with all kinds of mud and worse. Sliding the axle back in thru this mess is bound to drag some of it into the diff on the splines. I made a scraper out of a piece of threaded rod by casing a large washer between two nuts to drag the bad stuff out and even flushed out the tube with solvent before I put the axle back in. Maybe over kill but I tend to worry about dirt in my diff bearings..........:rolleyes:


Nice post. You only missed the last steps, wash up, kick back and have a cold beer, smile and say ahhhhhhh!

DK does good!!

Wonder why those last steps are the best ones.......:naughty::evillol:

JD

If you "tap" these too hard, you won't get a socket back on to tighten them up again. Most of the hubs I've removed were stuck too bad and needed a pounding to get them out. I can't remember if the threads are SAE or metric but it will save you special ordering new bolts from DC if you get some hex head bolts to replace the original ones for beatin on....

The axle tubes are usually filled with all kinds of mud and worse. Sliding the axle back in thru this mess is bound to drag some of it into the diff on the splines. I made a scraper out of a piece of threaded rod by casing a large washer between two nuts to drag the bad stuff out and even flushed out the tube with solvent before I put the axle back in. Maybe over kill but I tend to worry about dirt in my diff bearings..........:rolleyes:




DK does good!!

Wonder why those last steps are the best ones.......:naughty::evillol:

JD

JD made a great point.
The book says to tap on the hub itself to drive it out, but this could cause damage to the bearing, this is why I tap on the bolts.

I just replaced my hub/Bearing assembly a few months ago, so whenever I need to remove the axleshafts or hub I tap on the bolts and they come out very easily. If the hub is very tight, tap on the hub itself to drive it out.

Thanks for all the inputs from you all..........I will be attempting this hopefully later in the week or next weekend. I will give you all feedback later on my adventure.

FF/EMT Gary

New axle is about $110 at Autozone.

Quick summary of Axleshaft replacement:
-Raise Jeep.
-Remove wheel (5 lug nuts) and remove center cap from wheel.
-Remove the cotter pin, locking cap and spring washer from axleshaft.
-Place 1-7/16" socket on the axle nut, and put the wheel back on and tighten the lugnuts and lower vehicle. Then using a breaker bar break the axle nut loose (it should be very tight, might want to use some PB Blaster on the nut as well to help break it loose).
-Then raise jeep up and support it securely on jackstands. Remove wheel again.
-Remove brake caliper (2 13mm bolts on backside and pry between the caliper and center od the rotor with a screwdriver or pry bar)
-Remove rotor (slides right off after caliper is removed)
-Remove ABS Wheel Speed Sensor from backside of hub (1 8mm bolt)
-Loosen 3 13mm (12 points) bolts on backside of hub so they stick out the back about 1/2". Then using a hammer tap on the head of the bolts to drive the bearing/hub assembly out of the steering knuckle (might be a lil tight).
-Finish removing the Axle nut and the 3 bearing/hub bolts (on backside of hub). Then finish removing the bearing/hub assembly from the steering knuckle.
-Slide the axleshaft out of the axle tube and replace with new.
-Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure to tighten the hubbolts (3 13mm 12point bolts) and the Axlenut (1-7/16" nut) very tight.

I think thats about it, Let me know if you need any further assistance.




What are the chances you could take this procedure and then go and replace the front axle u-joint on a GC instead of one with those damn CV'S? :)

There are crossover parts to change the CV type shafts to the regular ujoints but that will sacrifice some of the smoothness when turning.
I don't have any "will fit" list but a good gear shop will know what you need.


Likely someonelse will come up with a cross for you if you wait a bit.

JD

Well I have seen 1 ZJ with U-Joints style axleshaft, but thats about it. And I have checked at autozone but they do not carry the u-joint style axleshafts just the CV Style.

Count me among the few, I have the U-Joint style axle shaft. The driver side joint is definitely starting to go.

Are Dana 30 the only front axles in all stock ZJ's? Haven't checked mine out yet, but figured it was. Think these are pretty common, hoping it will be easy to find a new joint.

Yes, the D30 was the only axle used on the front end of ZJ's.

You should be able to find the U-Joint for the front axleshafts pretty easily, I am sure autozone, advance Auto Parts and many other will have them, but I don't know if you will able to find the enire axleshaft (u-joint style) tho, but the u-joint itself to repair you should deffinately be able to find.

Okay that's great... hopefully I won't have to look for the entire axleshaft... unless I don't get to it in time and the joint falls apart and then everything else breaks.

For anyone who is interested here's a good site with lots of pictures for doing this, even though it's on a TJ.

http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-1.htm

I want to thank everybody for all the help on my Jeep axle replacement. The directions you all gave me were right on the money and well worth asking for them. I replaced it today and all things went very well. The only problem was to get the main axle bolt to breal loose. Other then that the others came out fine and the bearing housing came out after only a few hits from the brass hammer. There was some sand and dirt in the tube around the axle and was cleaned out with the help of a threaded rod with a washer on the end. Many thanks to all for the help. You saved me tons of money from sending it in for the dealer to fix. The axle cost me only $59.95 and get this.....the core charge was $110.00. Go figure. even the auto shop was confused on that one. I love this site due to all the great info you can get from all of you. Thanks again.......

FF/EMT Gary